mtb with road tyres(wheels) ??

Can 700c rim fit mtb 26" frame?

"969" wrote...

Quoted message said:

Is it possible to put road tyres on mtb..
What kind of wheel is requierd?

There are slick / treadless tires available ti fit 26" rims, in various
widths. There are also plenty of 26" tires available with various tread
patterns intended for on pavement use, or for various mixtures of on and off
pavement.

If your mtb has rim brakes (cantilevers or V-brakes), puting 700C rims on
more than likely won't work, since the rims won't line up with the brake
pads. If your MTB has disc brakes, you *might* be able to fit 700C rims with
certain tires, but the bike would probably ride very strangely. Putting 700C
rims on a bike meant for 26" rims strikes me as a lousy idea even if you can
make it sort of work.
--
mark

Quoted message said:

There are slick / treadless tires available ti fit 26" rims, in various
widths. There are also plenty of 26" tires available with various tread
patterns intended for on pavement use, or for various mixtures of on and
off pavement.

If your mtb has rim brakes (cantilevers or V-brakes), puting 700C rims on
more than likely won't work, since the rims won't line up with the brake
pads. If your MTB has disc brakes, you *might* be able to fit 700C rims
with certain tires, but the bike would probably ride very strangely.
Putting 700C rims on a bike meant for 26" rims strikes me as a lousy idea
even if you can make it sort of work.

what is 700C tyre size: Can this kind of tyre an pressure come closely on
26" tyre?

there are 26X1,0 tyres...

Are there 26" wheels with rims SIMILAR to 700C road rims?

969 said:

Quoted message said:

There are slick / treadless tires available ti fit 26" rims, in various
widths. There are also plenty of 26" tires available with various tread
patterns intended for on pavement use, or for various mixtures of on and
off pavement.

If your mtb has rim brakes (cantilevers or V-brakes), puting 700C rims on
more than likely won't work, since the rims won't line up with the brake
pads. If your MTB has disc brakes, you *might* be able to fit 700C rims
with certain tires, but the bike would probably ride very strangely.
Putting 700C rims on a bike meant for 26" rims strikes me as a lousy idea
even if you can make it sort of work.

what is 700C tyre size: Can this kind of tyre an pressure come closely on
26" tyre?

there are 26X1,0 tyres...

Are there 26" wheels with rims SIMILAR to 700C road rims?

I've recently tried to find out the same thing. And I know now that
there are options to choose: KENDA KWEST 26 X 1-3/8; Primo 26 X 1.00
BSK 20-559 RACER; Tioga 26 X 1.00, City Slicker, etc. These three are
almost absolutely slick and seems not the best choice for wet wether.
Just go the KENDA, Tioga, etc sites and you'll get more options.

Hiya!
Sheldon Brown over at www.sheldonbrown.com has some interesting
articles on wheel size. Just to give you an idea of what a headache
they are, the 26" wheels that are probably on your MTB are not the same
as the 26" wheels that were on my 1979 Schwinn three speed. The 700c
size is what's on most road bikes and many "hybrids," and the wheels
are, I guesttimate, two or three inches taller than the 26" wheels on
typical mtbs. That means rim brakes (like cantilevers) will need major,
major changes that may not be possible.

HOWEVER, as others have pointed out, road wheels that are meant to fit
26" wheel MTBs do exist. In fact, my local bike shops all have a modest
stock of same. Tire pressures on these typically run about as high/ow
as similarly wide road tires in the 700c size. For example, the
Bontrager select K 700c sized 38 mm tires on my hybrid run 60-80 PSI
according to the little writing on the gumwalls. That's about the same
pressure you'd expect in a 26"x1.5 or 26"x1.75 street slick sort of
tire.

Good idea would be to bring your bike to the LBS and ask them about
tire/rim matches, intended riding. Apparently, wide rim/thin tire
combinations are "a bad thing" but further the deposed bike mechanic
saideth not -- at least in a recent conversation I had on the topic.

Robert Leone [email hidden]

asg said:

969 wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Are there 26" wheels with rims SIMILAR to 700C road rims?

I've recently tried to find out the same thing. And I know now that
there are options to choose: KENDA KWEST 26 X 1-3/8; Primo 26 X 1.00
BSK 20-559 RACER; Tioga 26 X 1.00, City Slicker, etc. These three are
almost absolutely slick and seems not the best choice for wet wether.
Just go the KENDA, Tioga, etc sites and you'll get more options.

While I like the very minimal tread on my Panaracer T-Serv tires (a
highly recommended, flat-resistant, long-wearing, light and cheap
tire), I don't believe it does squat to make them better in the wet
(not that I have a lot of chance to test that premise in Arizona).
However, I rode the City Slickers for years in Florida, where I DID
get to ride a LOT in the wet, and I'm certain that they're at least as
good as any treaded tire (up to a couple hundred MPH, at which point
they might hydroplane more than some other tires).

Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $795 ti frame

....

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Are there 26" wheels with rims SIMILAR to 700C road rims?

I've recently tried to find out the same thing. And I know now that
there are options to choose: KENDA KWEST 26 X 1-3/8; Primo 26 X 1.00
BSK 20-559 RACER; Tioga 26 X 1.00, City Slicker, etc. These three are
almost absolutely slick and seems not the best choice for wet wether.
Just go the KENDA, Tioga, etc sites and you'll get more options.

what pressure?

is this better for road than 28" trekking with 700C X 35 ??

Quoted message said:

Sheldon Brown over at www.sheldonbrown.com has some interesting
articles on wheel size. Just to give you an idea of what a headache
they are, the 26" wheels that are probably on your MTB are not the same
as the 26" wheels that were on my 1979 Schwinn three speed. The 700c
size is what's on most road bikes and many "hybrids," and the wheels
are, I guesttimate, two or three inches taller than the 26" wheels on
typical mtbs. That means rim brakes (like cantilevers) will need major,
major changes that may not be possible.

what about disc brakes?

Than what is better option: 700C wheels with disc brakes or 26" with 26X1,0
tyres?

The quickest and least expensive option is to get street tires that
will fit your current wheels. Try them out -- you may not need a
"better option," and reconversion is a tire iron and pump away. And
26x1.0 may be a bit on the thin side. This is where the expertise of
your LBS comes in.

Robert Leone [email hidden]

Quoted message said:

The quickest and least expensive option is to get street tires that
will fit your current wheels. Try them out -- you may not need a
"better option," and reconversion is a tire iron and pump away. And
26x1.0 may be a bit on the thin side.

you mean that this thin 26X1,0 would make cycling not so "stable"or safe?

This is where the expertise of

Quoted message said:

your LBS comes in.

thanks

Hiya 969!
There comes a point where advice on-line isn't effective. For example,
without reading, writing and experimenting REAMS of stuff on the topic
(and undergoing the danger of turning into Jobst Brandt, only without
the charm and riding experience), I really couldn't, or shouldn't, make
pronouncements on line. For example, my incomplete remark above about
26x 1.0 road slicks being on the thin side was with the (unwritten, my
bad) reference to the size of your existing rims.

To explain, www.sheldonbrown.com has some excellent articles on tire
size and compatibiility, including a chart showing acceptable tire
widths to go with a given rim width. If you've got fat wide rims
designed to accomodate a 26x1.95 tire, they may be too wide to safely
take a 26x1.0 tire without threat of the tire wobbling off during turns
or something. I don't even play a bike mechanic on the radio, much less
real life.

Frankly, advice in a situation of incomplete information can be dicey,
if not dangerous. For example, say someone posted over on
alt.support.diabetes "HELP the nurse said my sugar was 9 and I don't
know what to do." Regular posters there would be disadvantaged on
several levels. First, with the exception of a nutcase of a doctor who
claims his Book of Exodus inspired diet cures all ills (I'm
exaggerating, but not by much) few are medical professionals. Second,
when the poster says "9" we don't know if that is his or her A1c
percentage ("9" is bad, but after that it gets complicated) or if
they're a non USAian who's using mmol as units to measure their blood
glucose instead of the US standard mg/dL (and if it's 9 mmol it's still
bad). Third, given the systemic inplications of diabetes, suggestions
to handle high blood glucose wouldn't address the need for microalbumin
testing to check kidney function, that nasty, nasty crappy cholesterol
co-morbidity, the type 1/type 2/something WEIRD like
hemochromatosis-related diabetes form of the illness, blood pressure
(another lovely component of what the medical establishment is calling
"The metabolic syndrome" but which fear-mongering hypochondira-inducers
prefer to call "Syndrome X" for book-title marketing reasons), and all
SORTS of fun stuff (like the tendency for vision to get fuzzy while
blood sugars normalize, if treatment works) that physicians, nurses,
certified diabetes educators, GOOD pharmacists and registered
dieticians should handle in person. So a lot of time, the advice from
the best-informed of old-timers at alt.support.diabetes, survivors of
the days of the Speaker to Minerals, is, in effect "See your doctor."

It's the same with bike tires. They don't exist in isolation from the
rest of the bike. Brakes, rims, even seatpost and handlebar adjustment
may be advisable with a radical tire change, and espeically with a
radical change to a new wheel size. That's where the trained insight
of someone who's seen a LOT of bikes and is looking right at yours
comes into play. A change of tire type is a LOT simpler than playing
guessing games with an unpredictible endocrine system, but the
consequences can be quite dire if you inadvertently end up with tires
that won't quite work happily with your wheels.

Robert the incredibly wordy this evening Leone, [email hidden]

,

Quoted message said:

certified diabetes educators, GOOD pharmacists and registered
dieticians should handle in person. So a lot of time, the advice from
the best-informed of old-timers at alt.support.diabetes, survivors of
the days of the Speaker to Minerals, is, in effect "See your doctor."

I understand what you want to say: But I am very carefull with something
new like this tyres..
But I think that this tyres need to have
http://www.velomarkt.ch/bike-shop/produkt/245/6470.htm assigned rim width
that they are made for...

thanks for advice

Quoted message said:

It's the same with bike tires. They don't exist in isolation from the
rest of the bike. Brakes, rims, even seatpost and handlebar adjustment
may be advisable with a radical tire change, and espeically with a
radical change to a new wheel size. That's where the trained insight
of someone who's seen a LOT of bikes and is looking right at yours
comes into play. A change of tire type is a LOT simpler than playing
guessing games with an unpredictible endocrine system, but the
consequences can be quite dire if you inadvertently end up with tires
that won't quite work happily with your wheels.

There is an inherent problem with tire sizes and manufacturers...no 2
ever seem to be the same....one companies 1.95 is anothers 2.0 or
anothers 1.9.......so, let me simplify this a bit for you if I can.
The big fat tires with alot of tread on them are great for off road
riding...they give great traction in dirt and mud. The mid-size tires
1.3-1.5 are much better for regular road riding. They still get a
decent tire patch on the road( the amount of space on the road covered
by the tire..a footprint if you will) but have much less rolling
resistance, which means you need less energy to move them...I have
found from many many years of commuting 32 miles a day that the smaller
mid size tires, with smmoth or minimal tread work just fine. Get a
tire with a kevlar tread which will protect against flats. I have used
the "slick" tires in all weather conditions and never had a
problem...there is a sidewall tread on these slicks so when you lean
into a turn you get added traction. they are very safe and reliable
and do not require the effort in pedalling of a large teaded tire...If
you want a 1 inch tire....get a road or hybred bike....

http://www.nashbar.com/profile_moreimages.cfm?category=&subcategory=&sku=1629&brand=1126

I have that tire on the front (used to have one on the rear also but
took it off and replaced it with the next tire so I could use it on my
trainer. I used two of the above tires all summer and did lots of road
riding (a little over 1000 miles) and there is no noticible wear on
these tires. Very high quality, very little rolling friction, but if
yuo take it in the dirt there is still some tread.

http://www.hostelshoppe.com/cgi-bin/readitem.pl?Accessory=1137010289

This tire is the one I have on the back, and if I had known it existed
when I bought the other tires, I would have gotten these instead. I
wouldn't recommend going any smaller than 26x1.6, if you get any
smaller you run the risk of the pedals scraping the ground while going
around corners.

Hope this helps.

-Tim