MTB - Need new chain + cassette

I forgot to mention that my MTB has slick tyres as I do mainly road riding.
Is it possible to change the gearing to assist the slicks - I currently run
out of gears?

"1013" wrote in message ...

Quoted message said:

Is it true that you must replace the cassette at the same time as you
replace the chain in order for them to "mesh" properly?

Yep

Quoted message said:

What should I be looking at spending for a new one? Is $100 reasonable? I
assume the more expensive cassette are lighter.

Yep

Quoted message said:

Are there any good websites to compare chain/cassette prices online?

www.probikekit.com
www.freedommachine.com.au
www.phantomcycles.com.au

I won't mention the 'c' word.. though they are a good reference point of
what NOT to pay 😉

Gearing is up to you.. you may need to drop a few links from the chain if
you change to lower gears... I'm no expert in this area...

As for chains, grab a Wipperman/Connex.. best chains around IMHO and the
little link thingy means easy removal for cleaning..

cheers,
GPL

GPLama said:

"1013" wrote in message ...

Quoted message said:

Is it true that you must replace the cassette at the same time as you
replace the chain in order for them to "mesh" properly?

Yep

Hmm, wouldn't go that far. As long as you replace the chain before it's
out of spec, then you should be able to go through 2 or 3 chains before
replacing the cassette. It's easy to find out, put on the new chain, if
it skips, replace the cassette.

As usual, Sheldon has a good guide to this stuff (and most anything else
you would card to know about bicycles)

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

--
..dt
1996 Diamond Back 'Expert Tg' Roadie (7spd DT shifters, favourite bike!)
2004 Trek 2300 Roadie (9spd Ultegra)
2003 DiamondBack 'Criterium' Roadie (8spd Sora, rain bike)

1013 said:

My Avanti Barracuda MTB is due for a new chain since my current chain has stretched a fair amount.

Is it true that you must replace the cassette at the same time as you
replace the chain in order for them to "mesh" properly?

My bike currently has a Shimano 9-speed cassette on it (not sure of the
exact specs). The 05 Barracuda comes with the Shimano CS-HG50 11-32 9spd.

What should I be looking at spending for a new one? Is $100 reasonable? I
assume the more expensive cassette are lighter.

Are there any good websites to compare chain/cassette prices online?

Thanks for your help.

My Avanti Barracuda is just in for another bottom end refit. This seems to happen every 8000k or so. You will find that it's not only the chain and cassette that need replacing but also a few chainrings and bottom bracket.

I not sure about changing the gearing, I am happy with the gearing at present.

1013 said:

Is it possible to change the gearing to assist the slicks - I currently run out of gears?

If you've already got an 11-32, no. Your best bet would be to get something like a Shimano 105 road crankset, which has a 52 big ring vs 44 on your MTB. You'll lose your easier gears though - basically the smallest (easyist) ring on a road triple crank will be the same as the middle ring on a MTB crank.

"1013" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

My Avanti Barracuda MTB is due for a new chain since my current chain has
stretched a fair amount.

Is it true that you must replace the cassette at the same time as you
replace the chain in order for them to "mesh" properly?

My bike currently has a Shimano 9-speed cassette on it (not sure of the
exact specs). The 05 Barracuda comes with the Shimano CS-HG50 11-32 9spd.

What should I be looking at spending for a new one? Is $100 reasonable? I
assume the more expensive cassette are lighter.

Are there any good websites to compare chain/cassette prices online?

Thanks for your help.

It's going to depend how badly you've worn the chain. You should get more
than one chain per cassette. I would have thought that the weight of a
cassette wouldn't make any significant difference, especially on a MTB.

SomeGuy said:

If you've already got an 11-32, no. Your best bet would be to get something like a Shimano 105 road crankset, which has a 52 big ring vs 44 on your MTB. You'll lose your easier gears though - basically the smallest (easyist) ring on a road triple crank will be the same as the middle ring on a MTB crank.

Why replace the whole crankset? It should be possible to get larger chainwheel/s to fit the existing cranks. A 48 should do & you shouldn't need to also change the front derailleur.
OTOH if you're under geared on an MTB that's only used on the road, why not get a road bike. Save your MTB for the dirt.

"Bikesoiler" wrote in message ...

Quoted message said:

OTOH if you're under geared on an MTB that's only used on the road, why
not get a road bike. Save your MTB for the dirt.

As a dirtless MTB rider I can answer this one.. #1 strength, #2 braking
power... Riding 80% shard paths on my commute, I find a road bike crumples
when hitting unrestrained dogs, where as running them down on the MTB gives
a 'bag of bones' end result and keeps on going..

Riding at night with a number of blind corners also sometimes requires quick
off-road action and/or stopping distances that are not achievable on a
roadie..

cheers,
GPL

There is a substantial weight saving if you move up to a shimano XT rear cassette.

I have never had to replace a cassette because I kept an eye on my chain wear. Every MTB (2 riders) in my garage has an XT 9 speed cassette which have been going for years.

I reckon you should spring the dollars for an XT and then be nice to it (watch for chain wear) and you will have it for a long time. I also really like the wipperman chains. The 904 is a good chain at a nice price.

Quoted message said:

As a dirtless MTB rider I can answer this one.. #1 strength, #2 braking
power... Riding 80% shard paths on my commute, I find a road bike crumples
when hitting unrestrained dogs, where as running them down on the MTB gives
a 'bag of bones' end result and keeps on going..

Riding at night with a number of blind corners also sometimes requires quick
off-road action and/or stopping distances that are not achievable on a
roadie..

Definintely agree with most of that. Would add to it: price both of the
bike itself and replacement parts. Nice roadie bits are a lot more
exxy. Comfort is also a factor for a commuter, as is ease of accessory
mounting (mudguards, racks, etc).

Muddy events at Westgate dirt crits or some earlier Fat Tyre Flyer events this yr can really shorten that drivechain life span.

I've yet to master the - replace the chain multiple times to get extra life out of your cogs - without having it jump/skip on the first up hill. 😕

I've noticed some MTB slicks can be real thin (not skinny thin, but depth between the raod & rim thin), which can really reduce your overall gearing.
I run Specialised Hemishpere 2.0 tyres on my MTD commuter & find this combo good on my Specialised Stumpjumper running stnd 27spd group on the 'Bay ride in previous years.

1013 said:

I forgot to mention that my MTB has slick tyres as I do mainly road riding.
Is it possible to change the gearing to assist the slicks - I currently run
out of gears?

The story is that if the chain has stretched more than half way you must
replace both or it will skip. Borrow a wear guage to check or look for
the measurements on line. I forget exactly but its something like 12
links must not be more than so many inches. As always check Sheldon

dave said:

The story is that if the chain has stretched more than half way you must
replace both or it will skip. Borrow a wear guage to check or look for
the measurements on line. I forget exactly but its something like 12
links must not be more than so many inches. As always check Sheldon

12" of chain, when new, is 12 full links. If those 12 links are now <12
1/16" you will still be OK to put a new chain on without skipping. If it's >
12 1/16" - new chain and cluster. More than 12 1/8" - scrap the chainrings
as well, IIRC.

Cheers
Peter

1013 said:

My Avanti Barracuda MTB is due for a new chain since my current chain has
stretched a fair amount.

Is it true that you must replace the cassette at the same time as you
replace the chain in order for them to "mesh" properly?

Depends on wear. plenty of posts on this - look at Seldon Brown's website
for directions

Quoted message said:

My bike currently has a Shimano 9-speed cassette on it (not sure of the
exact specs). The 05 Barracuda comes with the Shimano CS-HG50 11-32 9spd.

What should I be looking at spending for a new one? Is $100 reasonable? I
assume the more expensive cassette are lighter.

Generally more expensive is lighter, but the current Shimano LX now has the
capacity to remove the sprockets. Could be good for total cleaning, and the
option of only replacing the worn cogs (usually only the smallest), if you
can find replacement sprockets (?)

Quoted message said:

Are there any good websites to compare chain/cassette prices online?

I found Torpedo7 had some good prices earlier this year for chains and a
cassette.
www.torpedo7.co.nz

But I do prefer the Wipperman chains, currently using the 908 on bothe bikes
with very good wear so far.

Cheers
Peter

Peter Signorini said:

dave said:

The story is that if the chain has stretched more than half way you must
replace both or it will skip. Borrow a wear guage to check or look for
the measurements on line. I forget exactly but its something like 12
links must not be more than so many inches. As always check Sheldon

12" of chain, when new, is 12 full links. If those 12 links are now <12
1/16" you will still be OK to put a new chain on without skipping. If it's >
12 1/16" - new chain and cluster. More than 12 1/8" - scrap the chainrings
as well, IIRC.

Cheers
Peter

Hey nearly right 🙂

Paulie-AU said:

I reckon you should spring the dollars for an XT and then be nice to it
(watch for chain wear) and you will have it for a long time. I also
really like the wipperman chains. The 904 is a good chain at a nice
price.

Seconded. Chain wear is easy to measure. Get an imperial ruler. Measure
rivet to rivet across twelve links, and it should be bang on 12". If
it's 1/16 more then the chain is probably due for replacement. If it's
1/8 more then your cluster will probably need replacement as well.

Dave - who has 11-34 XT clusters on both good MTBs, and cast offs on
the rest of the bikes