MTB Fork Replacement Instruction how to

-Buy a 1.5" pipe cutter from your local hardware store. It is a clamp with rollers that has a cutting wheel.

-Take your old fork off.

-Carefully tap your headset race off your old crown.

-Remove the star flanged headset thingie inside your steerer tube. Tap it out through the steerer tube downwards, if you try to pull the star flanged thingie up, you will likely damage it.

-Measure and mark where you are going to cut the new steerer tube against the old steerer tube.

-Measure it again to be sure.

-Measure it one more time to be really really sure.

-Clamp the cutter on, tighten the handle, spin it a few times, tighten the handle, spin the handle, tighten, spin, tighten, spin until you have scored it through. Makes a perfect 90 degree cut, no jagged edges from a hacksaw either.

-Tap the headset race onto the crown.

-Tap the star flanged thingie into the steerer tube.

-If your steerer tube is steel, cover it with a light coating of grease to prevent rust.

-Install the fork. Slide the top cup of your headset on, and any spacers.

-Thoroughly clean the steerer tube surface where your stem is going to clamp to, to ensure there is no grease. Clean the inside of your stem clamp.

-Install your stem.

-Put on the top cap and screw it down. Pop onto the manufacturer website to see the recommended torque of the top cap if you are unfamiliar with how tight to make it.

-Install your brakes and front wheel.

-Go riding.

Cheers,
Juba

Hey Juba,
Do you recommend using spacers? I'm partial for only one small spacer but I'm debating on removing it now. Any diff besides being shorter? Also, do you have any tricks on removing old hubs w/o using a tube?

Thanks!

nerv2010 said:

Do you recommend using spacers? I'm partial for only one small spacer but I'm debating on removing it now. Any diff besides being shorter?

The spacers are there to fine tune your riding position. If you are sure you want your handlebar a bit lower, then remove the spacer, and trim down your steerer tube accordingly. Does not change things much though, it might be hard to even notice much of a difference at all.

If you are worried about cutting your steerer tube before you test what it would feel like, take your top cap, stem and spacer off. Then put your stem on first, then the spacer on top of your stem, then add the top cap and tighten everything back up. That way you can ride a bit with your stem at that height to see if you like it better before cutting it down.

nerv2010 said:

Also, do you have any tricks on removing old hubs w/o using a tube?

Sorry, but I do not know what you are asking here. Not sure why you would use a tube to remove a hub, all you would need is a spoke wrench to unscrew the nipples, then you can unlace and remove the spokes so you can remove your old hubs.

Cheers,
Juba

Thanks! I think I'll stick with a short 2-5mm spacer just to be safe....or paranoid, either one.

Sorry about being ambiguous about the other part of the question. I was actually trying to refer to the headset cups once they're already in. I've tried using a wedge and hammer but that usually just dents the cups.

One more thing. Do you have any hints on installing the race crown? I was thinking of using a oversize pipe and maybe a rubber/plastic washer to protect the crown while I tapped on the pipe.

nerv2010 said:

I was actually trying to refer to the headset cups once they're already in. I've tried using a wedge and hammer but that usually just dents the cups.

You have to be pretty careful with the headset cups, a lot of things can go wrong taking them out. As you mentioned, denting the cups is one potential, you also have the potential to ovalize the cups (bad) if you tap it out unevenly. Though it is rare, you can even ovalize the headtube of your frame (very, very bad).

If tapping the cups gingerly is not getting them to come out, this is one project I might suggest taking to the local bike shop. They have a solid pipe tool, with flayed ends they can pop in and hammer out your cups in about 10 minutes.

nerv2010 said:

One more thing. Do you have any hints on installing the race crown? I was thinking of using a oversize pipe and maybe a rubber/plastic washer to protect the crown while I tapped on the pipe.

That sounds like it would do the trick. A simple piece of PVC tubing and a rubber mallet usually does the trick to. As long as what you are using to tap the race down is a lot softer then the race itself, you should be fine. Probably would want to use a plastic washer as opposed to rubber though, the rubber might absorb too much of your hammer impact to really get the race seated.

Cheers,
Juba

Thanks Juba.
I'm trying to think of alternate methods then buying the race crown installation tube or even the headset cup remover. I've seen both but they usually run around $50 and $30 US respectively. Then again, that is cheaper then taking it to the store..... But thank you again!