more spokes less maintaince?

is they mountain bike wheels?

My limited experience with low spoke-counts is that it INCREASES the need for truing.

I've got 2 pairs of old Mavic Cosmic Pros with 16 spokes (front and rear), and I can't keep the rears straight -- they may need retensioning by a pro, I dunno.

I also tried out some 2nd hand Mavic Cosmic Elites for a few weeks (I think the rear had 20 spokes), and I had trouble keeping the back wheel straight.

This is obviously just anecdotal, but it makes sense to me that if the load is spread over more spokes, they're less likely to "suffer as individuals" 🙂

CSpeedster said:

As the title says I'm wondering if a bike has less spokes it will need more frequent spoke tuneing.. I'm deciding on which bike I want in the trek fx series 7.2, 7.3 or the low spoke 7.5... also are Bontrager SSR rims much better than Shinamo RM60 rear hub and alloy front?

I made another post in the Bike buying help area, but I will close it since I narrowed my bike hunt down a bit. 🙂

I have built many of the Trek 7.x fitness bikes and I would compare them to the Specialized Cirrus line. If you have not looked at a Cirrus, you should. Anyway, I like them both and have found that - overall - you are getting a nicer bike (meaning ALL the components) as you move up the series. If you want a fitness bike that you're going to put a zillion miles on, then you're better off with a higher spoke count. If you're going to be racing your fitness bike (think about this), then a low spoke count would be important. Personally, my fitness bike is an old Raleigh mountain bike that weighs about 45 pounds. I ride my fitness bike for exercise, not performance. The most important component on that bike is the saddle ;-)

The point that I'm really trying to make is that a more important question for you is - probably - what do you really want to get out of the bike.

It's worth noting that if you buy a road bike with the same components that you get with the higher end 7.x series or, say, a Cirrus Comp+, you'll pay almost twice as much for the bike. These bikes are really great values and I love riding them. I ride all kinds of bikes every week and I will always like the 7.x's and the Cirrus bikes the best of them all. I really think you get the most "bang for the buck" from these bikes. But, that's just me ;-)

You might try and ask your dealer about substituting some 32 spoke wheels with one of the higher 7.x bikes. Let them know you want a long lasting, low maintenance wheel, but a bike with better components. 7.5, and up, are really nice bikes. It would be awesome if Trek made a 7.7 with 32 spoke OpenPro wheels. But, they have a vested intest in selling Bontrager boutique stuff. Personally, I don't race, so I want wheels with 32 spokes.

If you're going to be riding on smooth pavement all the time, then low spoke counts probably won't hurt at all. Your riding style figures in, too. If you don't get out of the saddle when crossing railroad tracks, then a low spoke count is probably not a good idea. Again, it's really important to figure out what kind of riding you are going to do and then match the bike to that. Don't be afraid to ask a lot of questions at your dealer and be honest with them about what your goals in biking are.

531Aussie said:

is they mountain bike wheels?

My limited experience with low spoke-counts is that it INCREASES the need for truing.

I've got 2 pairs of old Mavic Cosmic Pros with 16 spokes (front and rear), and I can't keep the rears straight -- they may need retensioning by a pro, I dunno.

I also tried out some 2nd hand Mavic Cosmic Elites for a few weeks (I think the rear had 20 spokes), and I had trouble keeping the back wheel straight.

This is obviously just anecdotal, but it makes sense to me that if the load is spread over more spokes, they're less likely to "suffer as individuals" 🙂

They are not mountain wheels. Trek 7.x bikes are marketed as "fitness" bikes and are, basically, road bikes with straight bars. An astute roadie would buy one of these bikes, upgrade to drop bars and brifters, and still save a LOT of money. I scratch my head every time I look at the prices between these "fitness" bikes and similarly configured road bikes. It just does not compute. You absolutely pay a premium for buying a "road" specific bike. I'll say it one more time. If you're not racing, consider a fitness bike like the Trek 7.x series, or the Specialized Cirrus line.
Great bikes, great value.

I'm really curious to hear if others feel the same as I do about these bikes.

I think that all of your other comments about spoke counts and need for truing are right on target. I think that once you go below a 28 spoke count, then you are talking "racing" wheel. And, with that, goes increased maintenance and pampering.

I'll admit to "retrogrouch" thinking, but there really is such a thing as "tried and true".

fish156 said:

An astute roadie would buy one of these bikes, upgrade to drop bars and brifters, and still save a LOT of money.

The frame geometry is different to a road bike. Further, weight isn't so much an issue with these bikes.

CSpeedster said:

As the title says I'm wondering if a bike has less spokes it will need more frequent spoke tuneing.. I'm deciding on which bike I want in the trek fx series 7.2, 7.3 or the low spoke 7.5... also are Bontrager SSR rims much better than Shinamo RM60 rear hub and alloy front?

I made another post in the Bike buying help area, but I will close it since I narrowed my bike hunt down a bit. 🙂

No and yes.

One seriously loose spoke or one broken spoke on a low spoke count wheel will make it wobble badly enough to rub your brakes. On the other hand, I once checked over my tandem, which had 48 spoke wheels, and found 3 broken spokes that hadn't affected the ride.

There's lots of low spoke count wheels out there and, while everything has a failure rate, it doesn't look to me like they are are any less reliable than traditional wheels. If you have a problem, however, there's no safety factor. They require immediate attention.

Humm well because of my $0.00 income I think I will go with the 7.3fx, I doubt I could find one of theses bikes second hand but am going to try at another store that sell second hand aswell.

I am wondering if they will charge much more to change out a part if your buying a new bike.. like will they give you a value for the original part? with the 7.3fx it comes with a c102 front shifter, I'm not sure how smooth that is. I have decore and xt shifters on my mountain bike and find them very smooth (front ones a little worn out though). the front shifter(derailer) is somthing that will last a long time on a bike, so I think maybe I should get a decore front but if I have to pay for the part and get nothing for the c102 than I wont bother. 🙂

I read that those taller rims (arodinamic?) are stiffer than flat rims and that for going over bumpy terrain you'll get a smoother ride with flat rims.. so I'll be happy with the 7.3fx. 🙂

I'm going to have a look at the cirrus line now aswell. thanks to everyone for thier help.

CSpeedster said:

Humm well because of my $0.00 income I think I will go with the 7.3fx, I doubt I could find one of theses bikes second hand but am going to try at another store that sell second hand aswell.

I am wondering if they will charge much more to change out a part if your buying a new bike.. like will they give you a value for the original part? with the 7.3fx it comes with a c102 front shifter, I'm not sure how smooth that is. I have decore and xt shifters on my mountain bike and find them very smooth (front ones a little worn out though). the front shifter(derailer) is somthing that will last a long time on a bike, so I think maybe I should get a decore front but if I have to pay for the part and get nothing for the c102 than I wont bother. 🙂

I read that those taller rims (arodinamic?) are stiffer than flat rims and that for going over bumpy terrain you'll get a smoother ride with flat rims.. so I'll be happy with the 7.3fx. 🙂

I'm going to have a look at the cirrus line now aswell. thanks to everyone for thier help.

Stiffer for taller rim = Yes with the same number/thickness spokes. But usually when taller rims are used, so are a smaller number of spokes.

Of course, most of the cushioning of the ride comes from tires or other more compliant components (shock absorbing seat post, shock absorbing fork, seat itself, etc.).
More spokes makes the wheel stiffer and adds redundancy so that each spoke and spoke hole in the rims & hubs spread the dynamic loads over a larger number of elements.

The quality of the spokes can make a big difference. I've never trued my 24 spoke wheels, but my 36 spoke wheels need to be trued all the time.

mikesbytes said:

The quality of the spokes can make a big difference. I've never trued my 24 spoke wheels, but my 36 spoke wheels need to be trued all the time.

True! Quality of spokes, nipples, rims, hubs, the build itself, etc. all make a difference.
Once they are built properly, I never trued my 48, 40, 36, 32, or 28 spoke wheels. I have over 250,000 miles on the current collection of wheels.

Thanks dudes wish I could aford the 7.5fx.. the terk bike store is near my house so I'll prob go with trek :P atm I will buy the 7.3 though gtg

Thanks for the replies