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Modernising a Peugeot U08

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Cycling Equipment
Published
2 August 2005
Last activity
3 August 2005
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Darb80
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  1. When I left school (many years ago) I took a summer holiday job in the
    Peugot bike assembly plant that operated in Melbourne, Australia. The
    factory only operated for a few years, at the peak of the 1970's bicycle
    boom in Australia, but it did have a big impact on me and my appreciation of
    "appropriate technology". During the time that I worked there, I was
    introduced to the pleasures of cycling, mainly through a bike that I bought
    from the factory - essentially a PX10, but built on a UO-8 frame. I rode
    that bike to university for few years until I left uni, got a job and bought
    a car, and, sadly, sold that bicycle. Over the years I had a number of
    newer, better specified bicycles, but never one that was more comfortable -
    especially on a long ride.

    Now I have a family and a beautiful wife who grew up in the country (or the
    bush as we call it in Australia). Her parents have a wheat and sheep farm
    and my wife likes to get up there as often as she can, so our family
    holidays often entail a week, "at the farm". On the farm, the nearest
    neighbour is about five miles down the road and moving the sheep between
    paddocks could be a ten mile walk. The country is flat - in other words, it
    is the natural habitat for a bike.

    I have taken to scouring the hard rubbish collection for old bikes and have
    built up a stable of bicycles that our family (mother, father, three girls),
    and cousins, uncles and aunts can ride around the farm (about 11 bikes in
    total). I find bikes that people have thrown out (sometimes, apparently,
    because the tires need repairing!). A couple of hours work, on average,
    and these bikes provide years of pleasure transporting kids to the weir for
    a swim, up the hill for the view or to do some "droving".

    So, here is my point (thanks for your patience). I was driving down a
    street in Melbourne about a year ago when I spotted a mid-1970's U0-8
    bicycle - completely intact - (stacked up on top of some broken Ikea
    furniture and a the busted desk light) in the hard-rubbish collection. I
    slammed on my brakes, backed-up and liberated it from the rubbish pile.

    It has been waiting in my shed for the past year and over the past month, I
    have been bringing it back into service.

    I have probably done this the wrong way - and, no doubt, should have
    subscribed to this list for some guidance before embarking on the project.

    Here is what I have done so far:

    Had the wheels rebuilt with alloy rims, replacing the old (heavy, somewhat
    bent and deadly in the wet) steel rims. The wheels have been build on the
    (Mavic?) rims that were on the bike - so that I could fit them back in.
    The dropouts on the back are too narrow for more modern rims. This has
    given me a set of 28" alloy rims - and hopefully a less stressful commute -
    I seemed to have a puncture a week on my 700c shod roadbike.

    Taken out the old steel crank and replaced it with a Bontranger crank and
    Shimano cassette. This all went in without any real drama and seems to be
    working well.

    Soaked the leather saddle with leather restorer and now have a remarkable
    comfortable seat!

    Cleaned off and adjusted the MAFAC brakes - which squeal like a stuck pig -
    but stop the bike ok.

    I have ordered a seat post that will fit into the frame - and will fit this
    once it arrives.

    My next question relates to the headset and the front forks. I would like
    to replace the existing stem and I have referred to Sheldon Brown's
    excellent site and read Tom Kunich's article on modernising old French bikes
    (should have gone there before I started). Tom recommends that the Peugeot
    forks are removed, are replace with modern forks - to allow a 22.2mm stem to
    be fitted, to allow some modern caliper brakes to be fitted and to fix some
    issues with the geometry. I am guessing that this requires that a bike
    modified in this way would hae to be fitted with 700c wheels as the 28"
    wheels will not clear most modern front forks. If I want to keep the 28"
    wheels, are there any forks that I could fit, or should I be looking to buy
    a 22mm head-stem or "file-down" a 22.2mm one to fit?

    Cheers

    Stephen

  2. Darb80 said:

    When I left school (many years ago) I took a summer holiday job in the
    Peugot bike assembly plant that operated in Melbourne, Australia. The
    factory only operated for a few years, at the peak of the 1970's bicycle
    boom in Australia, but it did have a big impact on me and my appreciation of
    "appropriate technology". During the time that I worked there, I was
    introduced to the pleasures of cycling, mainly through a bike that I bought
    from the factory - essentially a PX10, but built on a UO-8 frame. I rode
    that bike to university for few years until I left uni, got a job and bought
    a car, and, sadly, sold that bicycle. Over the years I had a number of
    newer, better specified bicycles, but never one that was more comfortable -
    especially on a long ride.

    Now I have a family and a beautiful wife who grew up in the country (or the
    bush as we call it in Australia). Her parents have a wheat and sheep farm
    and my wife likes to get up there as often as she can, so our family
    holidays often entail a week, "at the farm". On the farm, the nearest
    neighbour is about five miles down the road and moving the sheep between
    paddocks could be a ten mile walk. The country is flat - in other words, it
    is the natural habitat for a bike.

    I have taken to scouring the hard rubbish collection for old bikes and have
    built up a stable of bicycles that our family (mother, father, three girls),
    and cousins, uncles and aunts can ride around the farm (about 11 bikes in
    total). I find bikes that people have thrown out (sometimes, apparently,
    because the tires need repairing!). A couple of hours work, on average,
    and these bikes provide years of pleasure transporting kids to the weir for
    a swim, up the hill for the view or to do some "droving".

    So, here is my point (thanks for your patience). I was driving down a
    street in Melbourne about a year ago when I spotted a mid-1970's U0-8
    bicycle - completely intact - (stacked up on top of some broken Ikea
    furniture and a the busted desk light) in the hard-rubbish collection. I
    slammed on my brakes, backed-up and liberated it from the rubbish pile.

    It has been waiting in my shed for the past year and over the past month, I
    have been bringing it back into service.

    I have probably done this the wrong way - and, no doubt, should have
    subscribed to this list for some guidance before embarking on the project.

    Here is what I have done so far:

    Had the wheels rebuilt with alloy rims, replacing the old (heavy, somewhat
    bent and deadly in the wet) steel rims. The wheels have been build on the
    (Mavic?) rims that were on the bike - so that I could fit them back in.
    The dropouts on the back are too narrow for more modern rims. This has
    given me a set of 28" alloy rims - and hopefully a less stressful commute -
    I seemed to have a puncture a week on my 700c shod roadbike.

    Taken out the old steel crank and replaced it with a Bontranger crank and
    Shimano cassette. This all went in without any real drama and seems to be
    working well.

    Soaked the leather saddle with leather restorer and now have a remarkable
    comfortable seat!

    Cleaned off and adjusted the MAFAC brakes - which squeal like a stuck pig -
    but stop the bike ok.

    I have ordered a seat post that will fit into the frame - and will fit this
    once it arrives.

    My next question relates to the headset and the front forks. I would like
    to replace the existing stem and I have referred to Sheldon Brown's
    excellent site and read Tom Kunich's article on modernising old French bikes
    (should have gone there before I started). Tom recommends that the Peugeot
    forks are removed, are replace with modern forks - to allow a 22.2mm stem to
    be fitted, to allow some modern caliper brakes to be fitted and to fix some
    issues with the geometry. I am guessing that this requires that a bike
    modified in this way would hae to be fitted with 700c wheels as the 28"
    wheels will not clear most modern front forks. If I want to keep the 28"
    wheels, are there any forks that I could fit, or should I be looking to buy
    a 22mm head-stem or "file-down" a 22.2mm one to fit?

    Cheers

    Stephen

    I like the UO-8, but it's really not that special compared with modern
    inexpensive bikes, if you remove the nostalgia.

    Still, I've had two, and I fixed one up and gave it to my wife.

    You can get the squeak out of the Mafac brakes by toeing in the shoes.
    And those are pretty good brakes, aren't they!?

    You might be able to fashion a shim for the stem out of a cut up soda can.

    When you say 28", what do you mean? What is the tire definition in
    millimeters, as written on the sidewall?

    You can spread the dropouts to accept a wider rear axle. The trick is to
    do it symmetrically.

    Tom

  3. Tom Reingold said:

    When you say 28", what do you mean? What is the tire definition in
    millimeters, as written on the sidewall?

    I'm confused too--sometimes 700c bikes get called 28" wheels, but most
    often 28" mean old English Roadster wheels to my ears--like the Dutch
    bikes have.

    Perhaps the OP was worried about being able to drop the brake blocks to
    fit 700s and had some 27" rims build up.

    Quoted message said:

    You can spread the dropouts to accept a wider rear axle. The trick is to
    do it symmetrically.

    Sheldon Brown's 2x4 method is highly recommended for such a bike. Worked
    for me.

  4. Tom and Maxo,

    Thanks. You are right, the wheels are 27" not 28" and, yes, I got the new
    wheels made up because I couldn't find new hubs that would fit in the
    narrower dropouts. In retrospect - would have been far cheaper and quicker
    to spread the rear drop-outs buy a new wheelset. The brakes seem to have
    enough adjustment to fit 700 wheels.

    "maxo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Tom Reingold said:

    When you say 28", what do you mean? What is the tire definition in
    millimeters, as written on the sidewall?

    I'm confused too--sometimes 700c bikes get called 28" wheels, but most
    often 28" mean old English Roadster wheels to my ears--like the Dutch
    bikes have.

    Perhaps the OP was worried about being able to drop the brake blocks to
    fit 700s and had some 27" rims build up.

    Quoted message said:

    You can spread the dropouts to accept a wider rear axle. The trick is to
    do it symmetrically.

    Sheldon Brown's 2x4 method is highly recommended for such a bike. Worked
    for me.

  5. Darb80 said:

    In retrospect - would have been far cheaper and
    quicker to spread the rear drop-outs buy a new wheelset. The brakes seem
    to have enough adjustment to fit 700 wheels.

    Live and learn.

    😄

  6. Darb80 said:

    Tom and Maxo,

    Thanks. You are right, the wheels are 27" not 28" and, yes, I got the new
    wheels made up because I couldn't find new hubs that would fit in the
    narrower dropouts. In retrospect - would have been far cheaper and quicker
    to spread the rear drop-outs buy a new wheelset. The brakes seem to have
    enough adjustment to fit 700 wheels.

    So what state is the bike in now?

    And how do you plan to use it?

    --
    Tom Reingold
    Noo Joizy
    This email address works, but only for a short time.

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