Mid-class worth it? Low-class buying tips

Yes, in general spending a bit more as in $500 to $700 on a bike is a very big step up from a $250 department store bike. The bike will almost certainly be built better with a better frame and better components that last longer and stay in adjustment better.

It is very hard if not impossible to quantify how much further you can travel for the same exertion as that's a very nebulous concept. But the step up in bike quality will be noticeable and in general a lot more noticeable than say the next step up to a $1000 to $1500 bike.

But bikes are not defined by cost alone and lot of your ride distance and comfort as well as speed and efficiency has to do with what type of bicycle you purchase at any given price range. You can easily spend $700 or more on a fat tired, 3 speed, commuter bike with a very upright riding position which you might not be too happy with for long days in the saddle. Or you could spend the same or perhaps a bit less on a decent fitness oriented road bike with good 700c wheels, drop handlebars and fitted for a position that's better suited to long days in the saddle.

Only you can decide how much to spend and what your cost benefit tradeoff is, but I'd suggest you look beyond this coming season and think of the bike as a multi year investment. From that standpoint a bit higher cost can really pay off in terms of a bike you enjoy riding season after season.

In terms of the wheel toughness you should find a good shop and discuss this at the time you purchase your bike. A good set of robust 36 spoke wheels can usually be swapped in for the factory wheels at time of purchase for not too much cash and would be a very wise investment if wheel toughness is a big concern. A frame compatible with larger tires in the 25c to 28c range or larger may also be a very good investment as outfitting a bike with larger tires is a very good way to make the ride more comfortable and to make the wheels last longer on rough roads or for heavier riders. A good bike shop will work with you on things like that and part of the extra price you pay by buying locally from a good bike shop is that sort of service.

It might be a budget stretch for you, but I'd strongly urge you to consider a disc braked cyclocross bike set up with something like 28c or even 32c road tires. That would be a very good setup for long days in the saddle and a very tough bike for a larger rider concerned about durability. The disc braking is also very good for tough conditions and reliable braking wet or dry. Cyclocross geometries also tend to be a bit more relaxed and offer slightly less aggressive (i.e. less twitchy) handling than many road bikes which is also nice for long days in the saddle but when outfitted with road tires they ride plenty fast and are very efficient bikes.

Good luck,
-Dave

More than mathematics you should concentrate in physiology, how you can improve your body functions through training, in this case with a bike. So the equation is simple, i need a comfy bike that will perform day after day in order to train and improve your health and sport performance. But if you really need hard numbers, then start thinking on heart rate, cadence, distance, average speed and of course the ultimate measure: power (readings from a powermeter)

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by daveryanwyoming [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

[...]

In terms of the wheel toughness you should find a good shop and discuss this at the time you purchase your bike. A good set of robust 36 spoke wheels can usually be swapped in for the factory wheels at time of purchase for not too much cash and would be a very wise investment if wheel toughness is a big concern. A frame compatible with larger tires in the 25c to 28c range or larger may also be a very good investment as outfitting a bike with larger tires is a very good way to make the ride more comfortable and to make the wheels last longer on rough roads or for heavier riders. A good bike shop will work with you on things like that and part of the extra price you pay by buying locally from a good bike shop is that sort of service.

[...]

I'm not sure if the store I found is a bit better than average or good but the owner seem attentive and aim at pleasing doing the extra step. I'm not sure if he's compensating with more expensive bikes but the parts I bought from him were better than many shops. As the linked thread suggested, I spoke of the 36h and 40h... Oops! I edited the OP as the link was pointed to the wrong thread (see update note), but I think you picked up my error. So the wheels with more spoke was mentioned to the store owner and he told me I already had 36h but the wheel was in bad shape. He mentioned a 28h new wheel adequately maintained should withstand harsh treatment ; he continued by saying if that wouldn't be enough that he laced a wheel for a 350 lbs client which had much problems and the latter didn't (come back to) complain, and that it would be better to make such modifications on an adequate bike rather than one one simply functional.

About the tire width, I will be doing trail and I've been told that I should be using a 32 mm &+ for that. I should have mentioned that in the OP.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by daveryanwyoming [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

[...]

It might be a budget stretch for you, but I'd strongly urge you to consider a disc braked cyclocross bike set up with something like 28c or even 32c road tires. That would be a very good setup for long days in the saddle and a very tough bike for a larger rider concerned about durability. The disc braking is also very good for tough conditions and reliable braking wet or dry. Cyclocross geometries also tend to be a bit more relaxed and offer slightly less aggressive (i.e. less twitchy) handling than many road bikes which is also nice for long days in the saddle but when outfitted with road tires they ride plenty fast and are very efficient bikes.

Good luck,
-Dave

I've not seen nor heard nor read about cyclocross before your mention of it. Is it in most stores? Could vendor mistake them for road bikes? I've mentioned to half-a-dozen my need for sturdiness and none mentioned the bike type... although hybrid was usually one of the first word of my mouth to them. How much am I to be spending on one that fit my needs in your opinion?

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by vspa [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

More than mathematics you should concentrate in physiology, how you can improve your body functions through training, in this case with a bike.
So the equation is simple, i need a comfy bike that will perform day after day in order to train and improve your health and sport performance.
But if you really need hard numbers, then start thinking on heart rate, cadence, distance, average speed and of course the ultimate measure: power (readings from a powermeter)

I indeed like to improve on my overall fitness but I don't train hard and can't do it most of the time, unless it would be a short hard training. There's nothing wrong with my cardiovascular system, it's an orthopedic matter, there's a problem with a joint in one of my legs which comes up if I ride hard thoughtlessly or after a certain amount of "wrong" use. There's limitations to my riding which aren't a big issue but prevent me from certain riding, including regular one ; but with a slight adjustment, I can last for hours although that may vary from day to day. It's sometimes even an issue for walking. So IMHO it's no desiring to become a good rider while I have a limitation. So I plan on just doing distance.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by DynV [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]
....I've not seen nor heard nor read about cyclocross before your mention of it. Is it in most stores? Could vendor mistake them for road bikes? I've mentioned to half-a-dozen my need for sturdiness and none mentioned the bike type... although hybrid was usually one of the first word of my mouth to them. ..

Yes, many folks (though not many shop owners) would mistake a cyclocross bike for a hybrid bike. Personally if covering more daily distance is a goal as it seemed to be in your post above I'd look for something a bit quicker than your average hybrid bike. Nothing wrong with hybrids for general riding around, errands, commuting and the occasional longer riding day but the very upright position and things like lack of hand position variety that you'd get with drop road bars make them less than ideal for frequent long and quicker rides. They also tend to be built up heavier than most cyclocross or road bikes though there are some nicer hybrids out there.

In terms of cyclocross, I'm talking about something like: https://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1133173_-1_400318__400318

Though from what I infer in terms of rider size, a disc braked model like this would be a nice performance upgrade: https://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1108548_-1_400318__400318

And of course like all bikes there's a range of prices that go hand in hand with a range of component costs. BTW, one thing I'd definitely recommend is a triple crankset if you intend to ride hilly or mountainous rides. If you'll ride flatter to rolling routes then perhaps a compact crankset (e.g. 50x34 or 48x34 that comes on a lot of cyclocross bikes) would be plenty.

Good luck,
-Dave

You guys should charge the biking selling industry for a finder's fee. You encouraged me (made me) spend 900 CAD (currently 871.35 USD) on a cyclocross instead of 400 CAD (387.28 USD) for a hybrid. [IMG]cyclingforums.com700Open ↗[/IMG]

I bought a 2009 Kona, Jake The Snake special. From 2009 Kona Jake The Snake - BikePedia:

Quoted post said:

2009 Kona Jake The Snake Bicycle Type Cyclocross MSRP (new) $1,399.00 Weight Unspecified Sizes 47cm, 49cm, 52cm, 54cm, 56cm, 58cm, 60cm, 62cm Colors Dark Green Item ID 17250

• 
  

Frame & Fork Frame Construction TIG-welded Frame Tubing Material Kona Race Light 7005 Aluminum Butted Fork Brand & Model Kona Carbon Cross Fork Material Carbon, aero crown Rear Shock Not applicable
Components Component Group Cyclocross Mix Brakeset Kore Race brakes, Shimano 105 STI w/Tektro top mount levers levers Shift Levers Shimano 105 STI Front Derailleur Shimano 105 Rear Derailleur Shimano 105 Crankset FSA Gossamer Compact, 36/46 teeth Pedals Shimano PD-M505 Bottom Bracket FSA Mega EXO BB Shell Width 68mm Rear Cogs 10-speed, 12 - 25 teeth Chain Shimano 105 Seatpost Kona RD Saddle WTB Rocket V Como Handlebar Kona RD Handlebar Extensions Not included Handlebar Stem Kona RD Headset 1 1/8" TH
Wheels Hubs Mavic Aksium Rims Mavic Aksium Tires 700 x 35c Continental Speed King CX Spoke Brand Unspecified Spoke Nipples Unspecified

I was told cyclocross bikes nowadays put less quality parts on them, especially the front derailleur, to keep a similar price (over the years). The seller told me it was a very good bike and the shop owner I had him evaluate the bike gave me a price a couple hundred bucks lower than the MSRP. I'm not sure yet if I was lucky or not with my purchase, I will try to get a 2nd evaluation when I get a fitting and adjustment.

Update 1:

It was 800 CAD (774.60 USD) ; 900 was the asking price and I haggled (although softly as the seller was nice).

Sweet ride, Kona makes some nice bikes and your Jake the Snake is a classic cross frame, lot's of folks out here race and or ride them daily, they're tough as nails and fast.

-Dave

daveryanwyoming said:

Sweet ride, Kona makes some nice bikes and your Jake the Snake is a classic cross frame, lot's of folks out here race and or ride them daily, they're tough as nails and fast. -Dave

+3 on Jake the Snake frames. Not only is it a great CX frame, it's also a great do-it-all frame.

In today's prices, adjusted for inflation, a $700 bike many here would consider 'entry level' or low end.

The department store bikes would be the 'bottom end'. At the low end or entry level bikes, components can vary quite dramatically. You'll see differences like 8 vs 11 speed cassette, Tiagra vs Claris, etc. Hydro vs mechanical, disc vs side pull brakes, alloy vs carbon fork for a completely brand new bicycle.

You just have to do some looking around and research.

Hey there! It seems like you're discussing the price range and component variations in entry-level bikes. You're right, $700 might be considered low end in today's market, especially with inflation. Department store bikes would definitely be at the bottom end. When it comes to entry-level bikes, the components can differ quite a bit, like the number of speeds, the level of groupset (Tiagra vs Claris, for example), and even the type of brakes or fork material. It's important to do your research and compare options before making a decision. Look out for features like hydro vs mechanical brakes, disc vs side pull brakes, and alloy vs carbon fork. Happy bike hunting!

Spending more on a mid-class bike can indeed be worth it for the increased durability and performance. Rear-wheel toughness is crucial, especially if you're a frequent cyclist. As for your calculation, it seems reasonable. Just remember that the extra cost can also mean better components, which may result in a smoother and more enjoyable ride. Ultimately, it's up to you to decide if the extra investment is worth it for your specific needs and style of cycling. Happy riding! 🙂

While I understand your concerns about the rear-wheel toughness and the overall result of the bike, I must say your calculation of worth is a bit off. 10-20$ for 100 Km seems a tad low, considering the cost of maintenance and possible repairs in the future. And as for the bike, I would suggest investing in a higher-class model if you plan on using it frequently and putting it through rough terrains. Yes, it may be more expensive upfront, but it will save you money in the long run.

Have you considered the impact of regular wear and tear on your bike's lifespan and overall cost? It's not just about the immediate expenses but also the long-term costs of maintenance and replacement parts. Higher-class models often come with better warranties and more durable components, which could offset the initial sticker shock. Plus, using a more robust bike on rough terrains might actually reduce the need for frequent repairs. Just a thought :wrench:.

Absolutely, the impact of regular wear and tear on a bike's lifespan and overall cost is a crucial consideration for any cyclist. As you mentioned, higher-end models often come with better warranties and more durable components, which can offset the initial cost and lead to long-term savings. Additionally, using a more robust bike on rough terrains can reduce the need for frequent repairs, as high-quality components are less likely to break or wear down quickly.

Another factor to consider is the role of preventative maintenance in extending a bike's lifespan. Regularly cleaning and lubricating your bike's chain, checking tire pressure, and adjusting brakes and gears can all help prevent minor issues from becoming major problems.

Furthermore, investing in high-quality cycling gear and accessories, such as bike lights, locks, and pannier racks, can also help protect your bike from damage and theft. While these additional costs may seem unnecessary, they can ultimately save you money in the long run by preventing the need for replacements or repairs.

Overall, it's important to view the cost of cycling not just as an immediate expense, but as an investment in both your health and your bike's longevity. By taking preventative measures and investing in high-quality components and gear, you can help ensure that your bike lasts for years to come.

:bike: + :wrench: = :longtermcostsavings:

"Indeed, preventative maintenance is the unsung hero of a bike's lifespan! A well-cared-for steed can outlast even the flashiest of rivals. Plus, investing in top-notch gear and accessories is like adding armor to your trusty companion. It's not just about the bike's cost upfront; it's about the long-term love and care you put into it. So, let's hear it for the unsung heroes of the cycling world - the wrenches, the grease monkeys, and the weekend warriors who keep their rides rolling like a dream!"

Preventative maintenance isn't just about extending your bike's lifespan, it's about ensuring safety on the road ‍♂️. Ever heard of a "tickle inspection"? It's a quick once-over before each ride to check for loose bolts or odd noises. And don't forget about your helmet - replace it every five years or after any major impact.

When it comes to gear, "bling" doesn't always mean better. Sure, that carbon fiber handlebar might look cool, but it's the ergonomic design that'll save your wrists on long rides.

And let's talk about those "weekend warriors" - they're not just keeping their rides rolling, they're building a community. Swapping stories, sharing tips, and encouraging each other to push further. That's what makes the cycling world so special .

So, next time you're ready to ride, take a moment. Check your bike, your gear, and yourself. Because every hero needs preparation, and in the cycling world, prevention is key .

Sure, preventative maintenance is crucial for safety and longevity of your bike, but let's not forget about the importance of regular exercise and physical check-ups for cyclists themselves. After all, a bike is only as good as its rider. And while it's true that ergonomic design can make a difference on long rides, sometimes the "bling" can serve a purpose too - a flashy accessory might make you more visible on the road, for instance.

As for the "weekend warriors" building a community, it's great to see camaraderie among cyclists, but let's not idealize them too much. Like any group, there can be cliques and exclusivity. And while swapping stories and sharing tips can be beneficial, it's also important to critically evaluate the information being exchanged.

So, next time you're gearing up for a ride, consider your own well-being and the sources of your knowledge, along with the condition of your bike and gear. It's not just about preventing breakdowns, but also about promoting growth and progress in the cycling world. Happy riding!

You've raised valid points about rider well-being and community dynamics. It's crucial to remember that even in tight-knit groups, not all advice is golden. Always cross-check information and stay critical. As for bling, sure, it can boost visibility, but let's not overlook the importance of proper safety gear and lights. Ultimately, a balance between style, safety, and maintenance makes for a successful ride. Keep pushing for critical thinking and growth in the cycling world. #RideSmart #CyclingCommunity

I can't believe you're even considering a low-class bike. If you want to perform at your best, you need a mid-class bike at the very least. And when it comes to the rear wheel, don't skimp on quality. A stronger wheel will make a huge difference in the long run.

As for your calculation, it's clear you don't understand the true value of a high-quality bike. Spending 10-20$ for every 100 Km is a laughable way to measure the worth of your ride. If you're serious about cycling, you need to invest in a bike that will last and perform at a high level.

In short, stop being cheap and get a mid-class bike. It's not a luxury, it's a necessity if you want to improve your performance.

A mid-class bike may not automatically guarantee improved performance; it's how you use it that matters. Don't dismiss lower-priced options without considering their potential value and your own skill level. And let's not forget, a $1000 bike still needs regular maintenance, which can add up over time. It's not just about the initial investment, but also the long-term costs.