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Miche track cog problem

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Australia and New Zealand
Published
29 November 2004
Last activity
1 December 2004
Original author
hippy
Posts
24
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  1. Okay, so Miche have a funky arrangement whereby
    the cog itself doesn't screw on to the hub, it instead uses
    a screw-on adaptor that the cog sits on, engaging with
    half-circle 'splines', all held in place by a standard lockring.

    Problem: How do you remove the frickin adaptor!!??

    I don't have a special tool for the Miche setup (is there one?)
    so I tried backing off the lockring a little bit and backpedalling
    HARD to try to spin off the cog and adaptor. It didn't budge.
    I really need to get this off because with 49/18 I just can't keep
    up with the others at training, making training sort of pointless.

    Any ideas trackies?

    hippy
    "when in doubt.. use more force?"

  2. hippy said:


    I don't have a special tool for the Miche setup (is there one?)
    so I tried backing off the lockring a little bit and backpedalling
    HARD to try to spin off the cog and adaptor. It didn't budge.

    Images of Hippy riding furiously down the road backwards 🙂 Ahaa is that
    why fixies are so popular, couldn't do that with a freewheel?

    DaveB "struggling to concentrate on a presentation due tomorrow morning"

  3. "DaveB" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I don't have a special tool for the Miche setup (is there one?)
    so I tried backing off the lockring a little bit and backpedalling
    HARD to try to spin off the cog and adaptor. It didn't budge.

    Images of Hippy riding furiously down the road backwards 🙂 Ahaa is that
    why fixies are so popular, couldn't do that with a freewheel?

    http://www.oldskooltrack.com/files/images/June_Reverse_900.avi

    Quoted message said:

    DaveB "struggling to concentrate on a presentation due tomorrow morning"

    So I should post more links to cool bike vids? :-)

    evil hippy

  4. I use a home made chain whip & if still a prob I have a 4m piece of 50mm
    galv. pipe i slide over chain whip handle for extra leverage.Works a treat &
    that with loctite on the adaptor....
    If u can remove locking ring the cog should just flick off & new ring placed
    by hand back on????

    TP

    "hippy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Okay, so Miche have a funky arrangement whereby
    the cog itself doesn't screw on to the hub, it instead uses
    a screw-on adaptor that the cog sits on, engaging with
    half-circle 'splines', all held in place by a standard lockring.

    Problem: How do you remove the frickin adaptor!!??

    I don't have a special tool for the Miche setup (is there one?)
    so I tried backing off the lockring a little bit and backpedalling
    HARD to try to spin off the cog and adaptor. It didn't budge.
    I really need to get this off because with 49/18 I just can't keep
    up with the others at training, making training sort of pointless.

    Any ideas trackies?

    hippy
    "when in doubt.. use more force?"

  5. "TP" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I use a home made chain whip & if still a prob I have a 4m piece of 50mm
    galv. pipe i slide over chain whip handle for extra leverage.Works a treat


    &

    Quoted message said:

    that with loctite on the adaptor....

    Okay, guess I just need a proper chainwhip and some pipe :-)

    Quoted message said:

    If u can remove locking ring the cog should just flick off & new ring


    placed

    Quoted message said:

    by hand back on????

    I want to put a 'normal' cog on. I don't have any
    other Miche cogs.

    thanks
    hippy

  6. I made a whip out of a piece of flat bar & a bit of old chain...a bit of
    filing , a bit of drilling presto.
    or you could probably buy one for $15

    I bought a miche thinking it was the ducks nuts....ended up changing to
    normal screw on type...work just as well & cheap

    T

  7. TP said:

    I use a home made chain whip

    Ooohh, that would smart.

    Theo

  8. not on me on the missus in handcuffs
    dosnt hurt me one bit

    "Theo Bekkers" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    TP said:

    I use a home made chain whip

    Ooohh, that would smart.

    Theo

  9. hippy said:

    "DaveB" <[email hidden]> wrote in message


    ....

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    Images of Hippy riding furiously down the road backwards 🙂 Ahaa is that
    why fixies are so popular, couldn't do that with a freewheel?

    Quoted message said:

    http://www.oldskooltrack.com/files/images/June_Reverse_900.avi

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    DaveB "struggling to concentrate on a presentation due tomorrow morning"

    Quoted message said:

    So I should post more links to cool bike vids? :-)

    evil hippy

    Wow, and Oh Dear,

    5upr3m3 6ike 5kill5, but, aw spit, gotta wonder about the guy's will to
    live.

    At first I thought the vid was shot on a road that was closed off to
    (internal combustion engined) traffic on the weekends, like they do some
    places overseas. Then all this traffic shot past. OK, so it's a
    pedestrian crossing but, yeah, that's no guarantee.

    On my kranky poot's rendering of the .avi, there appears to be red stuff
    all over the pedestrian crossing. I hope that's not the still-fresh
    blood of the previous fixie doing the same stunts.

    Hmm. Back to the Future Part II-stylee thought. If the *original* .avi
    was filmed forwards, and the one we're seeing is actually the original
    run backwards, maybe the red bits are the still-fresh blood of the same
    fixie-dude doing the stunts. Hmm redux. But then all the pedestrians
    would have had to have been walking backwards in the original...

    Summary: love the skills and the stunts. But he wasn't wearing a
    helmet, tho kudos for the guy for being respectful to pedestrians.

    [censored]
    pakaf

  10. "hippy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Okay, so Miche have a funky arrangement whereby
    the cog itself doesn't screw on to the hub, it instead uses
    a screw-on adaptor that the cog sits on, engaging with
    half-circle 'splines', all held in place by a standard lockring.

    Problem: How do you remove the frickin adaptor!!??

    I don't have a special tool for the Miche setup (is there one?)
    so I tried backing off the lockring a little bit and backpedalling
    HARD to try to spin off the cog and adaptor. It didn't budge.
    I really need to get this off because with 49/18 I just can't keep
    up with the others at training, making training sort of pointless.

    Any ideas trackies?

    hippy
    "when in doubt.. use more force?"

    Hip,

    More Leverage Required...
    You need to get yourself a Track chain whip if you want to get the adaptor
    off. Why a track specific one? Because standard track cogs are wider than
    road cogs hence the chain is also wider. You will use this tool often
    during both training and racing if you are using screw on cogs.

    Assuming you don't already have the screw on cogs why not just get a full
    set (14,15,16, and 17) of Miche cogs (not overly expensive as far as cogs
    go). That way you dont have to worry about getting the spline adaptor off
    the hub.
    If you are using the Miche cogs on the spline adaptor all you need is a
    lockring tool.

    Also assuming that you would want a warm up in a gear of around 81" a 51T
    front ring probably would not go astray either.

    That would give you:
    81" (51x17) good warmup gear
    86.1" (51x16)
    86.4" (48x15)
    91.8" (51x15)
    92.6" (48x14)
    98.4" (51x14) Big Gear for Standing start training/ Flying 500s or 1000s

    The good thing with using a 51T ring at training is you can go from a light
    81" to a heavyish 98.4" without changing the front ring or (subject to
    dropout length) the chain length.
    All you are really missing then is your common racing gears of 88.2" (49x15,
    I hardly ever use this) and 90" (for which you will have the need for a 50T
    ring)

    If you really need to get the adapter off one of the others at training will
    have a chain whip in their toolbox that they would more than likely let you
    use for a few minutes. Just make sure you return it to it's rightful owner
    or you'll lose all privileges to borrow any tools again. ;-)

    Hope this helps.
    Geoff

  11. "hippy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Okay, so Miche have a funky arrangement whereby
    the cog itself doesn't screw on to the hub, it instead uses
    a screw-on adaptor that the cog sits on, engaging with
    half-circle 'splines', all held in place by a standard lockring.

    Problem: How do you remove the frickin adaptor!!??

    I don't have a special tool for the Miche setup (is there one?)
    so I tried backing off the lockring a little bit and backpedalling
    HARD to try to spin off the cog and adaptor. It didn't budge.
    I really need to get this off because with 49/18 I just can't keep
    up with the others at training, making training sort of pointless.

    Any ideas trackies?

    Yes, I have the exact setup. You still need a good chainwhip. Leave the
    lockring partly on holding the cog on. Use the cog to get the splined
    adapter to move. The adapter just inwinds like a normal cog, but you need
    the cog to be held on to get it to move. I don't know if there is a special
    Miche tool to get the adapter off, but I do know that a duraace BB lockring
    spanner is a perfect fit for the miche lockring (nice!). I've never had any
    more trouble getting the adapter off than any other cog....
    Gemma

  12. "TP" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I made a whip out of a piece of flat bar & a bit of old chain...a bit of
    filing , a bit of drilling presto.
    or you could probably buy one for $15

    I bought a miche thinking it was the ducks nuts....ended up changing to
    normal screw on type...work just as well & cheap

    ....until you strip a hub and you wish you'd kept on using the miche
    ones.....

    Gemma (Miche Fan)
    ps Miche cogs are cheap to mailorder....nice and flat for envelopes!

  13. the Miche setup would have been perfect if the lockring had been designed as
    a part of their boss at the moment the design just transfers the wear issue
    from the hub's main thread to the lockring thread.

    "Gemma Kernich" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "hippy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Okay, so Miche have a funky arrangement whereby
    the cog itself doesn't screw on to the hub, it instead uses
    a screw-on adaptor that the cog sits on, engaging with
    half-circle 'splines', all held in place by a standard lockring.

    Problem: How do you remove the frickin adaptor!!??

    I don't have a special tool for the Miche setup (is there one?)
    so I tried backing off the lockring a little bit and backpedalling
    HARD to try to spin off the cog and adaptor. It didn't budge.
    I really need to get this off because with 49/18 I just can't keep
    up with the others at training, making training sort of pointless.

    Any ideas trackies?

    Yes, I have the exact setup. You still need a good chainwhip. Leave the
    lockring partly on holding the cog on. Use the cog to get the splined
    adapter to move. The adapter just inwinds like a normal cog, but you need
    the cog to be held on to get it to move. I don't know if there is a
    special Miche tool to get the adapter off, but I do know that a duraace BB
    lockring spanner is a perfect fit for the miche lockring (nice!). I've
    never had any more trouble getting the adapter off than any other cog....
    Gemma

  14. "Gemma Kernich" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "TP" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:

    I made a whip out of a piece of flat bar & a bit of old chain...a bit of
    filing , a bit of drilling presto.
    or you could probably buy one for $15

    I bought a miche thinking it was the ducks nuts....ended up changing to
    normal screw on type...work just as well & cheap

    ...until you strip a hub and you wish you'd kept on using the miche
    ones.....

    Couldn't you also strip the hub using the Miche setup?

    hippy

  15. "Geoff" <[email hidden]> wrote

    Quoted message said:

    "hippy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:

    Okay, so Miche have a funky arrangement whereby
    the cog itself doesn't screw on to the hub, it instead uses
    a screw-on adaptor that the cog sits on, engaging with
    half-circle 'splines', all held in place by a standard lockring.

    Problem: How do you remove the frickin adaptor!!??

    More Leverage Required...

    Hmm.. I figured that was it, but I 'was' putting a fair
    bit of anger into the pedal..

    Quoted message said:

    You need to get yourself a Track chain whip if you want to get the adaptor
    off. Why a track specific one? Because standard track cogs are wider than
    road cogs hence the chain is also wider. You will use this tool often
    during both training and racing if you are using screw on cogs.

    Yeah, I have two chainwhips already.. for road chains! Doh!

    Quoted message said:

    Assuming you don't already have the screw on cogs why not just get a full
    set (14,15,16, and 17) of Miche cogs (not overly expensive as far as cogs
    go). That way you dont have to worry about getting the spline adaptor off
    the hub.
    If you are using the Miche cogs on the spline adaptor all you need is a
    lockring tool.

    I have three screw-on cogs (15T, 16T, 17T) and an 18T Miche.
    I don't have a lockring tool or track chainwhip. I think I might get
    a new lockring because the groove for the tool on mine is mangled
    from the previous owner. I've been using a screwdriver and hammer
    to bang it tight. :-)

    Quoted message said:

    Also assuming that you would want a warm up in a gear of around 81" a 51T
    front ring probably would not go astray either.

    I have to check my chainring collection. I have strange
    cranks so could be limited in my choice or it will cost me
    a fortune..

    Okay, I have 45T, 48T(2), 50T, 51T chainrings.

    Quoted message said:

    That would give you:
    81" (51x17) good warmup gear
    86.1" (51x16)
    86.4" (48x15)
    91.8" (51x15)
    92.6" (48x14)
    98.4" (51x14) Big Gear for Standing start training/ Flying 500s or 1000s

    The good thing with using a 51T ring at training is you can go from a


    light

    Quoted message said:

    81" to a heavyish 98.4" without changing the front ring or (subject to
    dropout length) the chain length.
    All you are really missing then is your common racing gears of 88.2"


    (49x15,

    Quoted message said:

    I hardly ever use this) and 90" (for which you will have the need for a


    50T

    Quoted message said:

    ring)

    If I get my act together I might swap the 49T for the 51T
    and see how I go.

    Quoted message said:

    If you really need to get the adapter off one of the others at training


    will

    Quoted message said:

    have a chain whip in their toolbox that they would more than likely let


    you

    Quoted message said:

    use for a few minutes. Just make sure you return it to it's rightful


    owner

    Quoted message said:

    or you'll lose all privileges to borrow any tools again. ;-)

    John Nicholson (da coach) had this awesome trick. He just wrapped
    the chain around the cog and back over itself (somehow..) and then
    grabbed the wheel and spun it. Bugger me if the cog didn't just spin
    off! (I must have loosened it for him ;-) ). Then he put the scew-on
    cog on and reversed the chain and used the same trick to do up the
    cog!

    Is it compulsory to race with a lockring?

    hippy

  16. "Gemma Kernich" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Yes, I have the exact setup. You still need a good chainwhip. Leave the
    lockring partly on holding the cog on. Use the cog to get the splined
    adapter to move. The adapter just inwinds like a normal cog, but you need
    the cog to be held on to get it to move. I don't know if there is a


    special

    Quoted message said:

    Miche tool to get the adapter off, but I do know that a duraace BB


    lockring

    Quoted message said:

    spanner is a perfect fit for the miche lockring (nice!). I've never had


    any

    Quoted message said:

    more trouble getting the adapter off than any other cog....

    Ya know.. I don't think I got a lockring in my Miche groupset.
    Should that surprise me or are they not usually included?

    hippy

  17. "hippy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "Gemma Kernich" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Yes, I have the exact setup. You still need a good chainwhip. Leave the
    lockring partly on holding the cog on. Use the cog to get the splined
    adapter to move. The adapter just inwinds like a normal cog, but you
    need
    the cog to be held on to get it to move. I don't know if there is a


    special

    Quoted message said:

    Miche tool to get the adapter off, but I do know that a duraace BB


    lockring

    Quoted message said:

    spanner is a perfect fit for the miche lockring (nice!). I've never had


    any

    Quoted message said:

    more trouble getting the adapter off than any other cog....

    Ya know.. I don't think I got a lockring in my Miche groupset.
    Should that surprise me or are they not usually included?

    hippy

    Miche include the lockring with the hubset.

    Geoff

  18. "Geoff" <[email hidden]> wrote

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Ya know.. I don't think I got a lockring in my Miche groupset.
    Should that surprise me or are they not usually included?

    Miche include the lockring with the hubset.

    Fark... I never even looked in THAT box!

    hippy

  19. "hippy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "Gemma Kernich" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "TP" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:

    I made a whip out of a piece of flat bar & a bit of old chain...a bit of
    filing , a bit of drilling presto.
    or you could probably buy one for $15

    I bought a miche thinking it was the ducks nuts....ended up changing to
    normal screw on type...work just as well & cheap

    ...until you strip a hub and you wish you'd kept on using the miche
    ones.....

    Couldn't you also strip the hub using the Miche setup?

    You could in theory I suppose, but most hubs I've seen stripped are either
    due to the cogs not having been tightened aproperly fter a cog change and
    then the you do a vigorous start and wind the threads right off, or people
    x-threading the poor thing. With the Miche one it's got a good number of
    threads, and you never need to touch it - the less times you change cogs on
    the thread the less the probability of you doing it badly.
    (there's some horrible nasty cheap-[censored] cogs for sale in australia, compare
    them to a Miche or Dura ace cog in terms of the numbre of threads and you'll
    see - only takes one good effort once with one heap-[censored] cog and your hub is
    toast!
    The miche stuff is great for fast gear changes - 'cassette' rear cog and the
    cranks don't have 'top hat' chainring nuts either.
    Gemma

  20. "Steve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    the Miche setup would have been perfect if the lockring had been designed
    as a part of their boss at the moment the design just transfers the wear
    issue from the hub's main thread to the lockring thread.

    How do you work that one out?
    The lockring needs to be removed just as often as any other lockring (unles
    you're a nutter who doesn't use a lockring on the track!)
    Provided your chainline isn't completely screwed up it takes zero side load,
    and doesn't need to be done up tight....
    It can't screw onto the boss as part of the design because then there's
    still nothing stopping the boss from unscrewing from the hub!!
    Additionally it would further limit the cogs available - you can't get less
    than a 14t already because the diameter of the cassette/boss is too large.
    Gemma

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