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measuring brake calilper drop

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UK and Europe
Published
7 March 2004
Last activity
10 March 2004
Original author
David Kenning
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18
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  1. I want to measure up for a new set of brake calipers, but
    what points do I measure between? I'm guessing centre of
    caliper bolt to top edge of rim - am I barking up the
    right tree?

    What I'm really after, I guess, is a recommendation for dual-
    pivot calipers with a long reach/mudguard clearance for my
    touring bike (a Raleigh Royal - needs 55mm or thereabouts).
    I don't have anywhere to fit cantis/vees and don't want to
    go down that route anyway. The current brakes are old
    Raleigh Weinmann centre-pulls, which I'm happy with but the
    rear caliper is badly bent, which I only noticed when I
    replaced the blocks recently.... OK, I'm actually just
    looking for an excuse to upgrade. I'm gonna get meself some
    of those nice modern-looking aero levers too.

    d.

  2. "david kenning" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I want to measure up for a new set of brake calipers, but
    what points do I measure between? I'm guessing centre of
    caliper bolt to top edge of rim -


    am

    Quoted message said:

    I barking up the right tree?

    What I'm really after, I guess, is a recommendation for
    dual-pivot


    calipers

    Quoted message said:

    with a long reach/mudguard clearance for my touring bike
    (a Raleigh


    Royal -

    Quoted message said:

    needs 55mm or thereabouts). I don't have anywhere to fit
    cantis/vees and don't want to go down that route anyway.
    The current brakes are old


    Raleigh

    Quoted message said:

    Weinmann centre-pulls, which I'm happy with but the
    rear caliper is badly bent, which I only noticed when
    I replaced the blocks recently.... OK, I'm actually
    just looking for an excuse to upgrade. I'm gonna get
    meself some


    of

    Quoted message said:

    those nice modern-looking aero levers too.

    d.


    Measure from the centre of the fixing bolt to the centre
    of the bolts holding the brake blocks in place (or the
    centre of the semi circular end of the slots, this will
    give you a range)

    I have a Royal with the original brakes, been thinking about
    upgrading them for ages but have 700C wheels so the drop is
    close to 60mm. I'd like some dual pivot ones and Alhongra do
    some reasonably priced ones (£21 in Spa Cycles) though I
    think my rear rack, again not OE, would foul a dual pivot
    caliper there.

    I fitted some Exage Aero levers that I got 2nd hand, work
    well enough with the Weinmans though I'd like to try to get
    a stiffer hanger for the front.

  3. MSeries <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : I have a Royal with the original brakes, been thinking
    : about upgrading them for ages but have 700C wheels so the
    : drop is close to 60mm. I'd like some dual pivot ones and
    : Alhongra do some reasonably priced ones (£21 in Spa
    : Cycles) though I think my rear rack, again not OE, would
    : foul a dual pivot caliper there.

    My fixie is an old Royal frame, now with 700C wheels and I
    use alhonga rear brakes. Works fine with the rack for me.
    Unless you have a very odd rack I reckon it'd be fine.

    Arthur

    --
    Arthur Clune clune.orgclune.org "Technolibertarians make a
    philosophy out of a personality defect"
    - Paulina Borsook

  4. Arthur Clune said:
    MSeries said:

    I have a Royal with the original brakes, been thinking
    about upgrading them for ages but have 700C wheels so the
    drop is close to 60mm. I'd like some dual pivot ones and
    Alhongra do some reasonably priced ones (£21 in Spa
    Cycles) though I think my rear rack, again not OE, would
    foul a dual pivot caliper there.

    My fixie is an old Royal frame, now with 700C wheels and I
    use alhonga rear brakes. Works fine with the rack for me.
    Unless you have a very odd rack I reckon it'd be fine.

    Arthur

    My rack is an old, 1989, four point fixing Blackburn, I use
    P-clips to attach it to the seat stays. Does the cable pass
    to the outside of the rack or in between the two horizontal
    fixing struts. I have not been able to examine Alhonga
    brakes close up to be able to determine if they will
    actually fit or not. I should ride up to Spa Cycles and get
    the chap there to let me offer them up, he seems a prety
    helpful bloke.

  5. MSeries said:

    Measure from the centre of the fixing bolt to the centre
    of the bolts holding the brake blocks in place (or the
    centre of the semi circular end


    of

    Quoted message said:

    the slots, this will give you a range)

    Magic. Thanks for that.

    Quoted message said:

    I have a Royal with the original brakes, been thinking
    about upgrading


    them

    Quoted message said:

    for ages but have 700C wheels so the drop is close
    to 60mm.

    What's the actual size difference between a 27" wheel and a
    700C? I've been led to believe that it's negligible but I
    presume from this comment that it's enough to make a
    difference to what size calipers you need. I've also got on
    my list of planned upgrades changing the rear wheel from a
    27" with threaded freehub to a 700C with cassette hub, and
    I assumed I'd be able to do this without having to worry
    about whether the brakes woud still fit. (Though if I'm
    changing the calipers anyway, then it obviously wouldn't be
    an issue.)

    Quoted message said:

    I'd like some dual pivot ones and Alhongra do some
    reasonably priced ones (£21 in Spa Cycles) though I think
    my rear rack, again not OE, would foul a dual pivot
    caliper there.

    Again, thanks. What rack do you have? I was looking at
    getting a Tortec Expedition rack, which wouldn't have any
    clearance problems with centre-pull brakes but I'm not at
    all sure how much clearance you need for side-pulls - I
    guess it partly depends on the frame size.

    Quoted message said:

    I fitted some Exage Aero levers that I got 2nd hand, work
    well enough with the Weinmans though I'd like to try to
    get a stiffer hanger for the front.

    By "hanger", do you mean the bit that attaches to the
    handlebar post that the cable runs through? I was wondering
    if that casues any compatibility issues with aero levers -
    ie, is there any problem with the cable having to bend too
    sharply to fit through it? I think this question was
    answered just the other day when I saw a chap on the train
    with his Royal, which was fitted with aeros and the
    original centre-pulls - although, judging by the state of
    his chain, I'm not sure he was someone whose opinion I
    would really trust.

    d.

  6. MSeries <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : My rack is an old, 1989, four point fixing Blackburn, I
    : use P-clips to attach it to the seat stays. Does the cable
    : pass to the outside of the rack

    Outside. My rack is p-clipped on as well. You can see the
    bike + brakes when you pick up the book if you want.

    Arthur

    --
    Arthur Clune clune.orgclune.org "Technolibertarians make a
    philosophy out of a personality defect"
    - Paulina Borsook

  7. david kenning said:

    What I'm really after, I guess, is a recommendation for
    dual-pivot calipers with a long reach/mudguard clearance
    for my touring bike (a Raleigh Royal - needs 55mm or
    thereabouts). I don't have anywhere to fit cantis/vees and
    don't want to go down that route anyway. The current
    brakes are old Raleigh Weinmann centre-pulls, which I'm
    happy with but the rear caliper is badly bent, which I
    only noticed when I replaced the blocks recently.... OK,
    I'm actually just looking for an excuse to upgrade. I'm
    gonna get meself some of those nice modern-looking aero
    levers too.

    Hello, I've just come back from a short ride on my 1980s
    Raleigh Royal. I recently fitted a pair of Alhonga deep-drop
    dual-pivot calipers - which have plenty of reach for 700c
    wheels on this bike (in fact far more than enough for the
    front*)and enough mudguard clearance. They have a lighter
    action than centre-pulls.

    However, they don't seem to quite stay centred. I'm not sure
    why yet. Mounting nuts are very; maybe different washers
    would help? And power of the rear brake leaves something to
    be desired. So I can't exactly recommened them unreservedly.
    I suggest looking around for other dual-pivot brakes for the
    front (might be a suitable old/new Shimano model available)
    and carry on with the rear Weinmann for the time being.

    * front requires much less drop than rear on my Royal

    ~PB

  8. Pete Biggs said:

    However, they don't seem to quite stay centred. I'm not
    sure why yet. Mounting nuts are very; maybe different
    washers would help? And power of the rear brake leaves
    something to be desired. So I can't exactly recommened
    them unreservedly. I suggest looking around for other dual-
    pivot brakes for the front (might be a suitable old/new
    Shimano model available) and carry on with the rear
    Weinmann for the time being.

    * front requires much less drop than rear on my Royal

    ~PB

    Cheers for this Pete, I was thinking I'd ask you about these
    brakes sometime soon.

  9. david kenning said:
    MSeries said:

    Measure from the centre of the fixing bolt to the centre
    of the bolts holding the brake blocks in place (or the
    centre of the semi circular end of the slots, this will
    give you a range)

    Magic. Thanks for that.

    Quoted message said:

    I have a Royal with the original brakes, been thinking
    about upgrading them for ages but have 700C wheels so the
    drop is close to 60mm.

    What's the actual size difference between a 27" wheel and
    a 700C? I've been led to believe that it's negligible but
    I presume from this comment that it's enough to make a
    difference to what size calipers you need. I've also got
    on my list of planned upgrades changing the rear wheel
    from a 27" with threaded freehub to a 700C with cassette
    hub, and I assumed I'd be able to do this without having
    to worry about whether the brakes woud still fit. (Though
    if I'm changing the calipers anyway, then it obviously
    wouldn't be an issue.)

    Not sure on the exact difference in dimension, I am sure
    someone else will tell us soon. I switched wheels a long
    time ago, no real problems the spacing at the rear dropouts
    was different so I had to make the frame wider. Be careful
    how you do this, the frame needs to stay true i.e. the rear
    wheel needs to be exactly behind the front, if not you may
    suffer some shimmy when riding - I did. I have Shimano Deore
    (1990) six speed hubs on ATM

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    I'd like some dual pivot ones and Alhongra do some
    reasonably priced ones (£21 in Spa Cycles) though I think
    my rear rack, again not OE, would foul a dual pivot
    caliper there.

    Again, thanks. What rack do you have? I was looking at
    getting a Tortec Expedition rack, which wouldn't have any
    clearance problems with centre-pull brakes but I'm not at
    all sure how much clearance you need for side-pulls - I
    guess it partly depends on the frame size.

    I have an old Blackburn 4 point fixing rack

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    I fitted some Exage Aero levers that I got 2nd hand, work
    well enough with the Weinmans though I'd like to try to
    get a stiffer hanger for the front.

    By "hanger", do you mean the bit that attaches to the
    handlebar post that the cable runs through? I was
    wondering if that casues any compatibility issues with
    aero levers - ie, is there any problem with the cable
    having to bend too sharply to fit through it? I think this
    question was answered just the other day when I saw a chap
    on the train with his Royal, which was fitted with aeros
    and the original centre-pulls - although, judging by the
    state of his chain, I'm not sure he was someone whose
    opinion I would really trust.

    yes the hanger is the piece attached to the headset where
    the cable outer stops and the inner comes out. The curve of
    the cable is not too tight, I'd prefer if it was a larger
    radius but it works well. The hanger flexes when I apply the
    brakes and its this flex I'd like to eliminate.

    The story of my bike is here
    mseries.freeserve.co.ukbikebio.html and you can
    see a few old pictures here
    mseries.freeserve.co.ukbikeride Why not visit
    my homepage too while you are there
    mseries.freeserve.co.ukbikeride

    Petes piece about the effectiveness of his Alhongas is
    interesting.

    Quoted message said:


    d.

  10. david kenning said:
    MSeries said:

    Measure from the centre of the fixing bolt to the centre
    of the bolts holding the brake blocks in place (or the
    centre of the semi circular end of the slots, this will
    give you a range)

    Magic. Thanks for that.

    Quoted message said:

    I have a Royal with the original brakes, been thinking
    about upgrading them for ages but have 700C wheels so the
    drop is close to 60mm.

    What's the actual size difference between a 27" wheel
    and a 700C?

    8mm in diameter, so blocks need lowering by 4mm.

    Quoted message said:

    I've been led to believe that it's negligible but I
    presume from this comment that it's enough to make a
    difference to what size calipers you need.

    Depends how much room is left within the slots. Filing can
    help if blocks are almost but not quite low enough.

    Quoted message said:

    I've also got on my list of planned upgrades changing the
    rear wheel from a 27" with threaded freehub to a 700C with
    cassette hub, and I assumed I'd be able to do this without
    having to worry about whether the brakes woud still fit.

    I just managed to use a 700c wheel with the original
    brakes. The rear only just (after filing the slots as much
    as I dared).

    Quoted message said:

    (Though if I'm changing the calipers anyway, then it
    obviously wouldn't be an issue.)

    Can still be an issue because there aren't many maga-deep
    drop brakes to choose from out there - which you might
    possibly need for the rear.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I'd like some dual pivot ones and Alhongra do some
    reasonably priced ones (£21 in Spa Cycles) though I think
    my rear rack, again not OE, would foul a dual pivot
    caliper there.

    An Alhonga doesn't foul my rear rack (old obscure one). You
    could get a new rack if needs be or even mount the brake on
    the other side of the bridge somehow (not sure I'd ever want
    to do that but that is possible).

    /snip

    Quoted message said:

    By "hanger", do you mean the bit that attaches to the
    handlebar post that the cable runs through?

    That's right.

    Quoted message said:

    I was wondering if that casues any compatibility issues
    with aero levers - ie, is there any problem with the cable
    having to bend too sharply to fit through it?

    There would be so simply don't use the hangers with modern
    brakes and levers. Cable goes directly from lever to caliper
    - front & rear.

    ~PB

  11. MSeries said:
    Pete Biggs said:

    However, they don't seem to quite stay centred. I'm not
    sure why yet. Mounting nuts are very tight; maybe
    different washers would help?


    And

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    power of the rear brake leaves something to be desired.
    So I can't exactly recommened them unreservedly. I
    suggest looking around for other dual-pivot brakes for
    the front (might be a suitable old/new Shimano model
    available) and carry on with the rear Weinmann for the
    time being.

    * front requires much less drop than rear on my Royal

    Cheers for this Pete, I was thinking I'd ask you about
    these brakes sometime soon.

    You're welcome.

    I'm reasonably happy with the front brake actually (would be
    very happy if I wasn't so used to the astonishing braking on
    my road bike!), and I can live with minimal rear stopping
    power (after all the front is the business brake) but this
    going-off-centre-all-by-itself thing is annoying. Front does
    it too but to a much lesser extent. Hopefully I'll
    eventaully get to the bottom of it. If not, I might bung the
    rear Wienmann back on, despite the extra spring force which
    feels horrible compared to modern brakes.

    ~PB

  12. I said:

    * front requires much less drop than rear on my Royal

    So much so that I have to have front blocks right at the top
    of the Alhonga deep-drop slots. So the *minimum* reach is
    only just adequate, for 700c wheel! Won't be suitable for
    27" rim with these forks.

    ~PB

  13. Pete Biggs said:

    I'm reasonably happy with the front brake actually (would
    be very happy if I wasn't so used to the astonishing
    braking on my road bike!), and I can live with minimal
    rear stopping power (after all the front is the business
    brake) but this going-off-centre-all-by-itself thing is
    annoying. Front does it too but to a much lesser extent.
    Hopefully I'll eventaully get to the bottom of it. If
    not, I might bung the rear Wienmann back on, despite the
    extra spring force which feels horrible compared to
    modern brakes.

    I know what you mean. I was happy with the Weinmans until I
    got my latest bike in 1999 with Ultegra dual pivot jobbies.
    I fitted 105 DP ones to my #2 road iron last summer and now
    that the Royal is in use again I feel the difference ! I
    have been using it two or three times a week now for the
    last 4 months and have got used to the poorer brakes, I use
    the front mostly, but I am sure when I am riding 2 or three
    of my bikes every week I'll be wanting something better.
    Perhaps I'll stick with the Weinmans, they were good enough
    for me before.

  14. On Sun, 7 Mar 2004 18:17:30 -0000, in
    <[email hidden]>, "Pete Biggs"

    Quoted message said:

    brake) but this going-off-centre-all-by-itself thing is
    annoying. Front

    Is the outer cable now too long? i.e. is it pushing your
    caliper off-centre?

    --
    DISCLAIMER: My email box is private property.Email which
    appears in my inbox is mine to do what I like with. Anything
    which is sent to me (whether intended or not) may, if I so
    desire, form a legal and binding contract.

  15. Richard Bates said:
    Quoted message said:

    this going-off-centre-all-by-itself thing is annoying.

    Quoted message said:

    Is the outer cable now too long? i.e. is it pushing your
    caliper off-centre?

    Ingenious thought! It is a bit long,* but it's going off-
    centre the other way :-(

    * Obscure reason: I am using a customised rear hanger
    arrangement off the seat bolt (despite what I advised in a
    previous reply) just so I can have an extra cable
    adjuster. Maybe a bit of a dodgy idea anyway.

    Thanks.

    ~PB

  16. Pete Biggs said:
    Quoted message said:

    * front requires much less drop than rear on my Royal

    So much so that I have to have front blocks right at the
    top of the Alhonga deep-drop slots. So the *minimum* reach
    is only just adequate, for 700c wheel! Won't be suitable
    for 27" rim with these forks.

    I hadn't really noticed it before but you're absolutely
    right - the difference is pretty significant.

    d.

  17. MSeries said:

    The story of my bike is here


    mseries.freeserve.co.ukbikebio.html

    Quoted message said:

    and you can see a few old pictures here
    mseries.freeserve.co.ukbikeride Why not visit
    my homepage too while you are there
    mseries.freeserve.co.ukbikeride

    Lovely! I think my Royal must be about the same age as
    yours. I bought it in 1988, I think, and it was second
    hand then - the previous owner had taken great care of it
    - it even came with the label signed by the chap that
    built the bike!

    Quoted message said:

    Petes piece about the effectiveness of his Alhongas is
    interesting.

    Sounds like the alhongas would be a good bet from what
    everyone has said.

    d.

  18. Pete Biggs <[email hidden]> wrote ...

    Quoted message said:

    However, the Alhongas don't seem to quite stay centred.
    I'm not sure why


    yet.

    Quoted message said:

    Mounting nuts are very; maybe different washers would
    help? And power of the rear brake leaves something to be
    desired. So I can't exactly recommened them unreservedly.
    I suggest looking around for other dual-pivot brakes for
    the front (might be a suitable old/new Shimano model
    available) and carry on with the rear Weinmann for the
    time being.

    Last time I was in Longstaff's, they had a model of dual
    pivot that was intermediate in max drop between the Alhongas
    and the 57mm Shimanos. Looked better quality than the
    Alhongas, with a Q/R, but I can't remember the brand, so
    you'd have to ring and ask.

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