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Machine-built wheels: true and tension?

Started by John Flynn · · Last activity · 12 posts · 962 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
10 June 2004
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11 June 2004
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John Flynn
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  1. Can unridden machine-built wheels be trued, tensioned, and
    stress-relieved to "competent" hand-built specs? If so,
    how would the process compare to building from scratch by
    hand? Thanks.

    ~John Flynn Tallahassee, FL

  2. John Flynn said:

    Can unridden machine-built wheels be trued, tensioned, and
    stress-relieved to "competent" hand-built specs? If so,
    how would the process compare to building from scratch by
    hand? Thanks.

    It's fine. This is probably the most economical way to get
    good wheels. AFAICT, there's really no difference vs.
    building from scratch. You can approach it as if only the
    lacing has been done, then "build" from there.

    Matt O.

  3. Matt O'Toole said:
    Quoted message said:

    Can unridden machine-built wheels be trued, tensioned,
    and stress-relieved to "competent" hand-built specs? If
    so, how would the process compare to building from
    scratch by hand? Thanks.

    Quoted message said:

    It's fine. This is probably the most economical way to get
    good wheels. AFAICT, there's really no difference vs.
    building from scratch. You can approach it as if only the
    lacing has been done, then "build" from there.

    Of course the quality of the components is a high priority,
    especially spokes.

    Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

  4. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by John Flynn
    Can unridden machine-built wheels be trued, tensioned, and
    stress-relieved to "competent" hand-built specs? If so,
    how would the process compare to building from scratch by
    hand? Thanks.

    ~John Flynn Tallahassee, FL

    "Can" is quite an opertive word here.
    If the spokes, nipples, and rim iterfaces wer properly lubricated in the initial build process; and if quality components and the correct sizes (spoke length and guage) were selected; then yes.
    Spoke alignment usually works better when the spokes are not tensioned at the hub end and only lightly tensioned at the nipple end.
    So if a machine built wheel has all the component quality and correct spoke lengths and guages, you could use them as a collection of parts to complete a quality hand build. You would likely start by backing off tension and checking/adding lubrication, and then spoke alignment, and then add "layers" of tension while checking true and centering. Finish with tension balancing and stress relieving. ... And as Peter Chishom would add: check/pack bearings with fresh grease + precision adjust the bearings under QR Skewer pre-load.

  5. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by John Flynn
    Can unridden machine-built wheels be trued, tensioned, and
    stress-relieved to "competent" hand-built specs? If so,
    how would the process compare to building from scratch by
    hand? Thanks.

    ~John Flynn Tallahassee, FL

    Sure! this should be part of the prep of all wheels through a reputable bike store. For unridden wheels, an additional stress relief and final true would make the wheel very close to proper handuilt sets IF quality components were used.

    Unfortunately, many factory wheels shipped with complete bikes have not been built with quality spokes. I remember a certain line had wheels that had a very high failure rate. It was the spokes

  6. On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 20:16:28 GMT, daveornee
    <[email hidden]> wrote:

    [snip]

    Quoted message said:

    Spoke alignment usually works better when the spokes are
    not tensioned at the hub end and only lightly tensioned at
    the nipple end.

    [snip]

    Dear Dave,

    Am I missing something here?

    Carl Fogel

  7. Carl Fogel said:
    daveornee said:

    Spoke alignment usually works better when the spokes are
    not tensioned at the hub end and only lightly tensioned
    at the nipple end.

    Dear Dave,

    Am I missing something here?

    Carl Fogel

    Carl,

    I struggled over that sentence, too. I think daveornee meant
    that aligning spokes is easily performed at the hub when
    there is no spoke tension, and at the spoke nipple when
    there is just a little tension.
    --
    terry morse Palo Alto, CA bike.terrymorse.combike.terrymorse.com

  8. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by Terry Morse

    BCarl Fogel said:
    daveornee said:

    Spoke alignment usually works better when the spokes are
    not tensioned at the hub end and only lightly tensioned
    at the nipple end.

    Dear Dave,

    Am I missing something here?

    Carl Fogel

    Carl,

    I struggled over that sentence, too. I think daveornee meant
    that aligning spokes is easily performed at the hub when
    there is no spoke tension, and at the spoke nipple when
    there is just a little tension.
    --
    terry morse Palo Alto, CA bike.terrymorse.combike.terrymorse.com [/B]

    Sorry, didn't mean to cause struggling, but Terry managed to say quite well what I meant. I was talking about the " PROCESS" of spoke alignment, not how the end game, when in final tension.

    To Carl: Now that I have my new Harbor Freight vise, maybe I can just stick the wheel in it and make it perfect... joking aside, the vise finally came and is waiting to be mounted on the bench.

  9. daveornee said:
    Terry Morse said:
    Carl Fogel said:

    daveornee wrote:

    > Spoke alignment usually works better when the
    > spokes are not tensioned at the hub end and only
    > lightly tensioned at the nipple end.

    Dear Dave,

    Am I missing something here?

    Carl Fogel


    Carl, I struggled over that sentence, too. I think
    daveornee meant that aligning spokes is easily
    performed at the hub when there is no spoke tension,
    and at the spoke nipple when there is just a little
    tension.
    --
    terry morse Palo Alto, CA
    http://bike.terrymorse.com/" rel="ugc nofollow noopener">bike.terrymorse.combike.terrymorse.com

    Sorry, didn't mean to cause struggling, but Terry managed
    to say quite well what I meant. I was talking about the "
    PROCESS" of spoke alignment, not how the end game, when in
    final tension.

    To Carl: Now that I have my new Harbor Freight vise, maybe
    I can just stick the wheel in it and make it perfect...
    joking aside, the vise finally came and is waiting to be
    mounted on the bench.

    Dear Terry and Dave,

    Aha! It looks as if I need to read more slowly and sensibly.
    You were saying that you can align the spokes at the hub
    most easily when there's no tension; aligning them at the
    rim is easier with a little tension.

    (RIght? I got lost, read things wrong, and was wondering how
    to put tension on only one end of a spoke.)

    As for Dave's vise, glad that it's no longer missing.

    I mounted my vise on the most exposed corner of my workbench
    to give 90 degrees of access.

    I bolted it to the heavy surface boards and then bolted the
    heavy boards to the bench frame. Once it was in place, I
    sawed off the right-angle wood corner along the rounded edge
    of the vise base for a little more access.

    It's easy to toss an old bike frame into the jaws and use it
    as a stand for fiddling with wheels.

    Carl Fogel

  10. Quoted message said:
    Matt O'Toole said:
    Quoted message said:

    Can unridden machine-built wheels be trued, tensioned,
    and stress-relieved to "competent" hand-built specs? If
    so, how would the process compare to building from
    scratch by hand? Thanks.

    Quoted message said:

    It's fine. This is probably the most economical way to
    get good wheels. AFAICT, there's really no difference vs.
    building from scratch. You can approach it as if only the
    lacing has been done, then "build" from there.

    Of course the quality of the components is a high
    priority, especially spokes.

    This is true, but I haven't had any trouble with spokes for
    quite awhile. I've put tens of thousands of miles on a
    couple of cheap "take-off" MTB wheels with no trouble, after
    retensioning w/ stress relieving. The quality of cheap
    spokes may be pretty good these days.

    Also, you can buy prebuilt wheels with quality components
    at a deep discount from various mail order places, vs.
    buying components a la carte. For example, Ultegra hubs,
    Open Pro rims, and 14/15 DT spokes w/ brass nipples for
    well under $200. A set like this from a good wheelbuilder
    would be over $300.

    Matt O.

  11. jflynn-<< Can unridden machine-built wheels be trued,
    tensioned, and stress-relieved to "competent" hand-built
    specs? If so, how would the process compare to building from
    scratch by hand? >><BR><BR>

    Sure, just a test of the tension and go from there. 99.9%+
    are undertensioned so just start by making them round, true,
    dished, tensioned, stress relieved. We get a few $20 wheels
    from j/b. We make them happy and they work well.

    Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St.
    Boulder, CO, 80302
    (303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali
    costruite eccezionalmente bene"

  12. Quoted message said:

    Aha! It looks as if I need to read more slowly and
    sensibly.

    I had the same problem with the original sentence.

    Quoted message said:

    I ... was wondering how to put tension on only one end of
    a spoke.)

    I was wondering the same thing until Terry cleared it up.

    --
    Dave dvt at psu dot edu

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