Lumicycle spares ..

elyob said:

Hi, with the previous thread of standlights, I just thought what I
could do with those overly wide MR11's I bought. My storage area out
the back has no power, so I can use my lumicycle battery to power
these bulbs. I know nothing about electronics, but do have a Maplins
down the road. What would I need to buy? I'm thinking I need the two
pronged connector the bulb goes into and the bit that the lumi plugs
go into. I'm guessing that as these MR11 38degrees are meant for
kitchens etc, I should have no problem with overheating. (They say
Cool beam on the box).

I think the "Cool beam" is more to do with the colour of the light, ie.
supposed to be more white than yellow. All MR11s get hot, including the
ones I have marked "Cool beam".

What wattage is it again?

~PB

Pete Biggs said:

I think the "Cool beam" is more to do with the colour of the light,
ie. supposed to be more white than yellow. All MR11s get hot,
including the ones I have marked "Cool beam".

Be fair, Pete. It's only the lamp that gets hot. Put your hand in the
beam and you'll find that it remains cool, particularly on a winter's
night.

--
Dave...

"Pete Biggs" <p@melonbiggs{remove fruit}.tc> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

elyob said:

Hi, with the previous thread of standlights, I just thought what I
could do with those overly wide MR11's I bought. My storage area out
the back has no power, so I can use my lumicycle battery to power
these bulbs. I know nothing about electronics, but do have a Maplins
down the road. What would I need to buy? I'm thinking I need the two
pronged connector the bulb goes into and the bit that the lumi plugs
go into. I'm guessing that as these MR11 38degrees are meant for
kitchens etc, I should have no problem with overheating. (They say
Cool beam on the box).

I think the "Cool beam" is more to do with the colour of the light, ie.
supposed to be more white than yellow. All MR11s get hot, including the
ones I have marked "Cool beam".

What wattage is it again?

20W 500cd GU4 MR11 12V.

elyob said:

20W 500cd GU4 MR11 12V.

They get /very/ hot. I'll leave it to those with more electrics-knowledge
than me to advise on what hardware to get.

~PB

dkahn400 said:

Pete Biggs said:

I think the "Cool beam" is more to do with the colour of the light,
ie. supposed to be more white than yellow. All MR11s get hot,
including the ones I have marked "Cool beam".

Be fair, Pete. It's only the lamp that gets hot. Put your hand in the
beam and you'll find that it remains cool, particularly on a winter's
night.

Fair enough. Perhaps elyob would be better off with a Warm Beam then ;-)

~PB

"dkahn400" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Pete Biggs said:

I think the "Cool beam" is more to do with the colour of the light,
ie. supposed to be more white than yellow. All MR11s get hot,
including the ones I have marked "Cool beam".

Be fair, Pete. It's only the lamp that gets hot. Put your hand in the
beam and you'll find that it remains cool, particularly on a winter's
night.

Yup, that was it meant .. just googled it ...

"Dichroic reflector lamps are ideal for illuminating heat-sensitive objects.
Most of the heat produced by the lamp is emitted through the rear of the
reflector. This reduces the amount of heat in the light beam up to 66% so
you can place sensitive objects in high-intensity lighting without worrying
about them. In addition, decorative light for special lighting accents is
emitted to the back. "

I just seem to remember that some of the lumicycle range should only be used
when moving as they'll overheat ... hopefully as these are meant for fixed
lighting that shouldn't be a concern.

elyob said:

I just seem to remember that some of the lumicycle range should only
be used when moving as they'll overheat

20W+, they say.

Quoted message said:

... hopefully as these are
meant for fixed lighting that shouldn't be a concern.

Lumicycle use bulbs that are really designed for domestic applications too.

The heat shouldn't be a problem if the housing, hardware and wiring can take
it. Lumicycle can afford to be more minimalist with their lamps as they
know they will be air-cooled.

~PB

"elyob" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"dkahn400" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Pete Biggs said:

I think the "Cool beam" is more to do with the colour of the light,
ie. supposed to be more white than yellow. All MR11s get hot,
including the ones I have marked "Cool beam".

Be fair, Pete. It's only the lamp that gets hot. Put your hand in the
beam and you'll find that it remains cool, particularly on a winter's
night.

Yup, that was it meant .. just googled it ...

"Dichroic reflector lamps are ideal for illuminating heat-sensitive
objects. Most of the heat produced by the lamp is emitted through the rear
of the reflector. This reduces the amount of heat in the light beam up to
66% so you can place sensitive objects in high-intensity lighting without
worrying about them. In addition, decorative light for special lighting
accents is emitted to the back. "

I just seem to remember that some of the lumicycle range should only be
used when moving as they'll overheat ... hopefully as these are meant for
fixed lighting that shouldn't be a concern.

Er - I'd worry. For bike lighting, you don't really want a dichroic
reflector, as chucking the spare heat out the front is rather better than
heating up the lamp itself. (as opposed to eg projectors, where you really
don't want to heat up the film, so you chuck the heat out at the back).

Actually I wouldn't worry, but I would check that they aren't overheating.

cheers,
clive

"Pete Biggs" <p@melonbiggs{remove fruit}.tc> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

elyob said:

I just seem to remember that some of the lumicycle range should only
be used when moving as they'll overheat

20W+, they say.

Quoted message said:

... hopefully as these are
meant for fixed lighting that shouldn't be a concern.

Lumicycle use bulbs that are really designed for domestic applications
too.

The heat shouldn't be a problem if the housing, hardware and wiring can
take
it. Lumicycle can afford to be more minimalist with their lamps as they
know they will be air-cooled.

I was going to go really minimalist and just use a coat hanger to hold the
bulb. That should get plenty of evening air to it .. or should I be using a
casing as a heat sink?

"Clive George" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"elyob" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"dkahn400" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Pete Biggs wrote:

> I think the "Cool beam" is more to do with the colour of the light,
> ie. supposed to be more white than yellow. All MR11s get hot,
> including the ones I have marked "Cool beam".

Be fair, Pete. It's only the lamp that gets hot. Put your hand in the
beam and you'll find that it remains cool, particularly on a winter's
night.

Yup, that was it meant .. just googled it ...

"Dichroic reflector lamps are ideal for illuminating heat-sensitive
objects. Most of the heat produced by the lamp is emitted through the
rear of the reflector. This reduces the amount of heat in the light beam
up to 66% so you can place sensitive objects in high-intensity lighting
without worrying about them. In addition, decorative light for special
lighting accents is emitted to the back. "

I just seem to remember that some of the lumicycle range should only be
used when moving as they'll overheat ... hopefully as these are meant for
fixed lighting that shouldn't be a concern.

Er - I'd worry. For bike lighting, you don't really want a dichroic
reflector, as chucking the spare heat out the front is rather better than
heating up the lamp itself. (as opposed to eg projectors, where you really
don't want to heat up the film, so you chuck the heat out at the back).

Actually I wouldn't worry, but I would check that they aren't overheating.

All the bulbs I've had so far were direct from lumicycle, so should be fine.
These cheap jobbies were from Ikea, but aren't suitable but should make a
great outdoor lighting.

Come on you lot! What sort of power connector is it that lumi use? 2.1mm DC?
2.5mm DC? I really just don't know! And can I buy the bits that the bulbs
plug into off the high street?

elyob said:

Come on you lot! What sort of power connector is it that lumi use? 2.1mm DC?
2.5mm DC? I really just don't know!

Take the lumi battery to the Maplin and act vague. It works a treat
for my wife - she gets much better service from them than I ever do.

When I wanted a connector to mate with my lumi battery I found one in
my box of bits, and don't know what size it was. Sorry.

Quoted message said:

And can I buy the bits that the bulbs plug into off the high street?

No, but you can from maplin. It's a MR11 with a G4 base. MR11
defines the size of the whole thing. G4 is just the base socket it
plugs into. From Maplin, KJ77J is what you want for minimalist
installation. Beware of heat - dichroic chuck it out backwards (ie,
onto whatever you've mounted your base on). They also chuck some
light backwards, so you might want to arrange some shading.

Probably. If you kill yourself or burn something down it was nothing
to do with me.

regards, Ian SMith
--
|\ /| no .sig
|o o|
|/ \|

In article said:

elyob said:

I just seem to remember that some of the lumicycle range should only
be used when moving as they'll overheat

20W+, they say.

Quoted message said:

... hopefully as these are
meant for fixed lighting that shouldn't be a concern.

Lumicycle use bulbs that are really designed for domestic applications too.

The heat shouldn't be a problem if the housing, hardware and wiring can take
it. Lumicycle can afford to be more minimalist with their lamps as they
know they will be air-cooled.

They also run the bulbs at more than their nominal rating, making them
more efficient (but shorter lived and hotter).

http://www.lumicycle.com/Pages/CMS.aspx?MIS=35
"Lumicycle custom-enhances the performance of its Halogen lamps by overvolting
them. The lamps are designed to operate at 12v. We increase this by 10% with
the NiMH batteries and 20% with the Li-Ion batteries. ...
10% overvolting with a NiMH battery will result in a 15% increase in power
consumption but a 38% increase in brightness"

"Ian Smith" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

elyob said:

Come on you lot! What sort of power connector is it that lumi use? 2.1mm
DC?
2.5mm DC? I really just don't know!

Take the lumi battery to the Maplin and act vague. It works a treat
for my wife - she gets much better service from them than I ever do.

When I wanted a connector to mate with my lumi battery I found one in
my box of bits, and don't know what size it was. Sorry.

Quoted message said:

And can I buy the bits that the bulbs plug into off the high street?

No, but you can from maplin. It's a MR11 with a G4 base. MR11
defines the size of the whole thing. G4 is just the base socket it
plugs into. From Maplin, KJ77J is what you want for minimalist
installation. Beware of heat - dichroic chuck it out backwards (ie,
onto whatever you've mounted your base on). They also chuck some
light backwards, so you might want to arrange some shading.

Probably. If you kill yourself or burn something down it was nothing
to do with me.

Thanks Ian! I won't ever leave them unattended, so hopefully I won't do too
much damage!

"Ian Smith" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

No, but you can from maplin. It's a MR11 with a G4 base. MR11
defines the size of the whole thing. G4 is just the base socket it
plugs into. From Maplin, KJ77J is what you want for minimalist
installation. Beware of heat - dichroic chuck it out backwards (ie,
onto whatever you've mounted your base on). They also chuck some
light backwards, so you might want to arrange some shading.

Probably. If you kill yourself or burn something down it was nothing
to do with me.

Excellent. All done. I tried to put two in a row, but the power drop off was
quite noticeable. However my battery was used for a couple of hours and left
in the workshop for a week with no charge. Still, the outside of ny lockup
now has good illumination (well should do), and the amount of light going
backwards in is enough to give a reasonable indoor for fetching stuff. All
in all cost, about 6 quid.