lubricating spoke nipples

"Rik O'Shea" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I was recently attempting to true up a wheel, but a lot of the spoke nipples had seized up. I
cleaned them as well as I could but after rounding off a couple of the nipples I ended up using a
light weight oil and eventually had the nipples turning easily and trued up the wheel.

Now that I have the wheel good and true I am wondering what I should do to drive out any oil that
still might be left behind, or did I make a big mistake in the first place using oil ?

Thanks in advance Rik

No mistake. I do it on every wheel I build. It's only problematic on tubs where you have to glue to
the rim afterward. For clinchers, just wipe up as much of the excess as you can and you should be
fine. If you're very concerned, use some varsol on a rag and clean it up that way. No need to flush
the sockets or nipples, just wipe the rim and braking surfaces clean.

Cheers,

Scott..

rik-<< I cleaned them as well as I could but after rounding off a couple of the nipples I ended up
using a light weight oil and eventually had the nipples turning easily and trued up the wheel.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

<BR><BR> << Now that I have the wheel good and true I am wondering what I should do to drive out

any oil that still might be left behind, or did I make a big mistake in the first place using oil ?

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

<BR><BR>

Oil makes it easier to build a wheel and even and proper tension keeps it tight, Oil doesn't make
it loosen.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

On 17 Dec 2003 02:37:08 -0800, [email hidden] (Rik O'Shea) may

have said:

I was recently attempting to true up a wheel, but a lot of the spoke nipples had seized up. I
cleaned them as well as I could but after rounding off a couple of the nipples I ended up using a
light weight oil and eventually had the nipples turning easily and trued up the wheel.

Now that I have the wheel good and true I am wondering what I should do to drive out any oil that
still might be left behind, or did I make a big mistake in the first place using oil ?

You did good. The oil will also reduce your chances of the wheel going out of true due to relaxation
of residual torque on the spokes, since there probably isn't any torque remaining to relax. Wipe off
the excess, smile real big and mount the wheel.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Yes, I have a killfile. If I don't respond to something,
it's also possible that I'm busy.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

(Rik O'Shea) said:

Now that I have the wheel good and true I am wondering what I should do to drive out any oil that
still might be left behind, or did I make a big mistake in the first place using oil ?

If you made a mistake, than I've built sets of bad wheels. I usually soak the nipples in motor oil
that has been thinned with mineral spirits. The oil on the spoke threads and nipples leaves some
residue on the rim but I clean that off after lacing up the spokes.

One minor caveat about oil, with older ritchey rim strip, oil did seep to degrade innertube. Also, a
little anti seize mixed w/oil withstands elements better for truing in the field. Tom

--
Bruni Bicycles
"Where art meets science"
brunibicycles.com
410.426.3420
Werehatrack <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On 17 Dec 2003 02:37:08 -0800, [email hidden] (Rik O'Shea) may

have said:

I was recently attempting to true up a wheel, but a lot of the spoke
nipples had seized up. I cleaned them as well as I could but after
rounding off a couple of the nipples I ended up using a light weight
oil and eventually had the nipples turning easily and trued up the
wheel.

Now that I have the wheel good and true I am wondering what I should
do to drive out any oil that still might be left behind, or did I make
a big mistake in the first place using oil ?

You did good. The oil will also reduce your chances of the wheel
going out of true due to relaxation of residual torque on the spokes,
since there probably isn't any torque remaining to relax. Wipe off
the excess, smile real big and mount the wheel.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Yes, I have a killfile. If I don't respond to something,
it's also possible that I'm busy.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Bruni said:

One minor caveat about oil, with older ritchey rim strip, oil did seep to degrade innertube. Also,
a little anti seize mixed
w/oil withstands elements better for truing in the field.

A touch of lanolin grease (anhydrous lanolin) is a perfect anti-seize. It's commonly used for that
purpose in marine environments.

It's also an excellent lubricant, preserves rubber, and is non-toxic. It prevents electrolytic
corrosion, and is ideal where assembly of components involves dissimilar metals in direct contact
(cranks, seatposts, headsets, etc.)

Not so good as a wheel bearing lubricant though, because of its relatively low melting point (melts
in hot sun).

See eg:

lanotec.com.aulanotec.com.auOpen ↗

lanoguard.comlanoguard.comOpen ↗

John

<< > Now that I have the wheel good and true I am wondering what I should

Quoted message said:

do to drive out any oil that still might be left behind, or did I make a big mistake in the first
place using oil ?

No mistake. I do it on every wheel I build. It's only problematic on tubs where you have to glue to
the rim afterward. >>

SOP with any new tubular wheel is to clean the tire contact area well with a rag dampened with
lacquer thinner or acetone to remove contaminants and "prep" the rim for the initial gluing.

[email hidden] (Mike Krueger) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

<< > Now that I have the wheel good and true I am wondering what I should

Quoted message said:

do to drive out any oil that still might be left behind, or did I make a big mistake in the
first place using oil ?

No mistake. I do it on every wheel I build. It's only problematic on tubs where you have to glue
to the rim afterward. >>

SOP with any new tubular wheel is to clean the tire contact area well with a rag dampened with
lacquer thinner or acetone to remove contaminants and "prep" the rim for the initial gluing.

To add some more smelly stuff besides the glue to inhale and absorb through your skin.

I've never done this and my only problem with the glue on my tubulars has been to get the tires off
when I have a flat on the road, maybe because the glues I use seem to have solvent in them.

You only need a tiny amount of oil on the threads of the spokes, probably the smallest amount that
you can put on. Be sparing, keep your oily hands away from the gluing and braking surfaces of the
rim and you won't generally have a problem.

JP

another rcoket scientist!!!welcome!!! mix a few drops of motor oil-non-deterghent if its around-with
boiled linseed oil(also good for steel dropouts and scrapes). the mix gives rustproofing and a few
breakaway torque pounds.

[email hidden] (JP) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

[email hidden] (Mike Krueger) wrote in message news:<20031217090347.16110.00000870@mb-
m22.aol.com>...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

SOP with any new tubular wheel is to clean the tire contact area well with a rag dampened with
lacquer thinner or acetone to remove contaminants and "prep" the rim for the initial gluing.

To add some more smelly stuff besides the glue to inhale and absorb through your skin.

I've never done this and my only problem with the glue on my tubulars has been to get the tires
off when I have a flat on the road, maybe because the glues I use seem to have solvent in them.

It only takes a few seconds to clean a new wheel before applying tubular glue. You want the optimum
bond strength, and oil or other contaminants can degrade that, however slightly. I always wear
rubber gloves and work outdoors, if possible, when working with solvents. Wearing disposable vinyl
surgical gloves when applying rim cement is also a good idea. Carry a plastic tire lever in your
seat bag to help remove a glued tubular.

"Mike Krueger" <[email hidden]> wrote in message >

Quoted message said:

It only takes a few seconds to clean a new wheel before applying tubular glue. You want the
optimum bond strength, and oil or other contaminants can degrade that, however slightly. I always
wear rubber gloves and work outdoors, if possible, when working with solvents. Wearing disposable
vinyl surgical gloves when applying rim cement is also a good idea. Carry a plastic tire lever in
your seat bag to help remove a glued tubular.

My main concern, when mentioning tubs originally, is that the oil can possibly degrade the bond
without proper care. And if you use an overabundance or aren't careful in the cleaning, it can seep
down and cause longer-term problems. Even with clinchers, too much oil can degrade the tube and
tire. But for sure, more care is required with tubulars.

Cheers,

Scott..