The pin I used came with the 9spd chain. I don't think it's possible to get it flush on both sides but of course it's possible to get it equally uneven. Still, I'm unsure if in that position the chain will move freely, because before using the dedicated Shimano pin I tried your technique of not pushing the original pin out enough and it didn't go well right at the end, I did not aligning them well enough and pushed a part of the plate away making the link "open". So this might also be a reason why I'm having some trouble now
The joined link should be
invisible relative to the other links ...
That is, you won't be able to notice a visible difference between it and any other link.
So, when the pin is successfully inserted, YOU will see an equal portion of the pin protruding from both plates ...
Again, a pin with an end which is FLUSH to the plate is a pin which will probably result in a link which will fail.
A problem which you may be having may be a consequence of using a chain tool which is not designed for a 9-/10-/11-speed chain.
An older chain tool is not only not cast from metal which is strong enough to withstand the force needed to push the pin into place OR out, the older chain tools are not designed to hold the SECOND, dorsal (relative to the tool's 'crank' ... for want of a better term) PLATE against the inner link.
I think that most of the chain tools which have been designed to handle a 9-speed (
or, narrower) chain will have an adjustable, hollow bolt which will press against the
dorsal side of the chain & the "hollow" will receive the pin when it is being pressed out.
The chain tool(s) which may not be adjustable is the who-can-afford-it chain tool(s) made by Campagnolo.
So in your opinion, the side on which the pin is installed is irrelevant? Also, is on your opinion a bad idea to use a master link?
Most people apparently love using a
masterlink ...
I do not think that a
masterlink is a bad idea ... it is just not a necessary option ...
Other than the possibility of installing it upside-down (which apparently will cause balky shifting ... but, it should be obvious when checking while the bike is stationary & on a workstand) I don't have a reason other than the "Why bother?" attitude I have expressed regarding Shimano's quick pin.
Just ensure that the masterlink you get is designed for your chain's width ...
Chains from different manufacturers may-or-may-not vary in width from similarly designated chains for a given "speed" of drivetrain.
(I read that you should not reuse a pin that comes on the bike even if you don't push it all the way, because the pin does not have rivets at the end like the guide pin that comes with the chain does, and so will be a weak point in the chain. This is why I only use your technique for figuring the best chain size, but then I finish the job with a proper pin)
I've read that, too ...
In theory, masterlinks are NOT supposed to be re-used, too!
That is, a different, new masterlink is supposed to be used each time a chain is joined; but, many people obviously break their chains repeatedly without (?) negative consequence because they think they should break the chain & remove it from the bike each time the chain is cleaned.
Based on my having successfully
muffed the installation (
meaning, that I managed to replicate the problem which occurs when not using one of the alternates!), it is certainly easier to just push the pin out all the way out (
when using a proper-for-the-chain tool) and then use one of the alternates.
RACE MECHANICS really have too much to do AND they do not have time to fiddle with the chain ... so, the typical rider benefits from Shimano providing the installation pins with their chains.
Since I am not in a hurry, spending a few (
many!?!) extra minutes installing a chain is not a big deal to me ....
It's like waxing one's skis ...
A person can think of it is as either a chore or an opportunity to decompress while approaching a pseudo-zen bond with the skis/(whatever) ...
Consequently, I will say that the key to successfully 're-using' the pin is to ensure that the plates are not distorted ...
AND, if you have distorted the plate, then that is the problem ...
AND, you should anticipate needing to pony up
€15 +/- for an appropriate chain tool which is designed for a 9-/10-/11-speed chain..