Looking for a cheap road bike

Quoted message said:

I own a Raleigh M20 which I bought back a few years ago when I was in college for neighborhood
riding. Now I've gotten into riding on paved trails and the mountain bike just doesn't cut it;
it feels heavy and slow. I'd really like to buy a road bike but they're all really expensive.
Anyone have any recommendations for cheaper road bikes? The cheapest (new) one I've seen is
the 2003 Motobecane Mirage listed on bikesdirect.com for $325. Anyone know anything about this
one? Otherwise, can anyone recommend any resources for buying an inexpensive, preferably new,
road bike?

Fit is *the* key issue on a road bike, especially so on your first one. Your best bet is to save up
a bit more money and find a local dealer who's known to be really good at matching up the rider to
the bike, because the right bike is going to be one that's going to beg you to ride it, one that
can't stand sitting in the garage, one that makes you feel guilty because you'd rather be out riding
your bike than doing just about anything else.

Conversely, a bike that doesn't quite fit right, or has something that's not running the way it
ought to, is likely to spend its time gathering dust and become one of those "Well, tried the road
bike thing, glad I didn't spend even more money on it" deals.

Entry-level road bikes at shops have improved in quality and come down quite a bit in price lately;
the '04 TREK 1000, for example, runs about $520. And aside from fit, a good local dealer is going to
maintain a sense of ownership about the bike, so that if something isn't the way it ought to be,
they're going to do what they can to take care of it.

The most expensive bike you can buy is the one that doesn't get ridden much. The best "deal" on a
bike... well, I've laid out that stuff above!

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles chainreactionbicycles.comchainreactionbicycles.comOpen ↗

Jesse said:

expensive. Anyone have any recommendations for cheaper road bikes? The cheapest (new) one I've
seen is the 2003 Motobecane Mirage listed on bikesdirect.com for $325. Anyone know anything about
this one? Otherwise, can anyone recommend any resources for buying an inexpensive, preferably new,
road bike?

For new bikes, I've seen a Diamondback at [censored]'s Sporting Goods (a large chain of sporting goods
stores) for around that price. It appeared to be a worthwhile ride.

Quoted message said:

Thanks.

--
Rick Onanian

In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden]

(Jesse) said:

Hi --

I own a Raleigh M20 which I bought back a few years ago when I was in college for neighborhood
riding. Now I've gotten into riding on paved trails and the mountain bike just doesn't cut it;
it feels heavy and slow. I'd really like to buy a road bike but they're all really expensive.
Anyone have any recommendations for cheaper road bikes? The cheapest (new) one I've seen is
the 2003 Motobecane Mirage listed on bikesdirect.com for $325. Anyone know anything about this
one? Otherwise, can anyone recommend any resources for buying an inexpensive, preferably new,
road bike?

Thanks.

It's been a while since I have seen a new road bike with downtube shifters.

Dave in Minnesota

Jesse wrote in message <[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

I'd really like to buy a road bike

Just remember, don't go mid range.

As an example, if you buy a Colnago Master X- light with Campag Centaur then it will be sitting
unused in the garage in six months time when you have to upgrade to a Colnago C40 B-Stay.

Same goes for Pinarello, cheap out with a Motello running Campag Veloce and soon you will be
upgrading to the Prince SL running full Record.

Look, we're talking bikes, this is the cheapest of all wheeled road sports. You just can't spend big
money on cycling. Three or so new top end frames a season along with full gear and kit replacement
means you can still stay under $25,000 per year!

One last thing, a 52 cm frame is the sweet spot for frame appearance, don't let some sales person
talk you into any other size.

Mike Jacoubowsky said:

Quoted message said:

I own a Raleigh M20 which I bought back a few years ago when I was in college for neighborhood
riding. Now I've gotten into riding on paved trails and the mountain bike just doesn't cut it;
it feels heavy and slow. I'd really like to buy a road bike but they're all really expensive.
Anyone have any recommendations for cheaper road bikes? The cheapest (new) one I've seen is
the 2003 Motobecane Mirage listed on bikesdirect.com for $325. Anyone know anything about this
one? Otherwise, can anyone recommend any resources for buying an inexpensive, preferably new,
road bike?

Fit is *the* key issue on a road bike, especially so on your first one. Your best bet is to save
up a bit more money and find a local dealer who's known to be really good at matching up the rider
to the bike, because the right bike is going to be one that's going to beg you to ride it, one
that can't stand sitting in the garage, one that makes you feel guilty because you'd rather be out
riding your bike than doing just about anything else.

Conversely, a bike that doesn't quite fit right, or has something that's not running the way it
ought to, is likely to spend its time gathering dust and become one of those "Well, tried the road
bike thing, glad I didn't spend even more money on it" deals.

Entry-level road bikes at shops have improved in quality and come down quite a bit in price
lately; the '04 TREK 1000, for example, runs about $520. And aside from fit, a good local dealer
is going to maintain a sense of ownership about the bike, so that if something isn't the way it
ought to be, they're going to do what they can to take care of it.

The most expensive bike you can buy is the one that doesn't get ridden much. The best "deal" on a
bike... well, I've laid out that stuff above!

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles chainreactionbicycles.comchainreactionbicycles.comOpen ↗

Fit is definitely important. I have a Trek that I've had to buy certain seats and set back seatposts
in order to get the correct knee-to-pedal- spindle distance for me and have had to buy a long stem.
This year, when I ordered a Brooks saddle, I couldn't get the correct knee-to-pedal-spindle distance
even with a set-back seatpost. So, I gave up and got a Lemond. Even on the Lemond, I have my Brooks
pushed back as far as it will go, and I'm ordering a longer stem (and I've reversed the stem and put
it down about half an inch). Fit is by far the most important aspect on a racing bike. On a mountain
bike, fit doesn't seem to be as important, as I'm always off the seat/back on the seat, walking,
changing body positions. On a racing bike, I tend to get in one position and stay there, although I
do climb out of the saddle quite a bit.

--
Bob M in CT Remove 'x.' to reply

Bob M said:

Quoted message said:

Fit is *the* key issue on a road bike, especially so on your first one.

Quoted message said:

Fit is definitely important. I have a Trek that I've had to buy certain

I'll third that motion. I regretted my Giant TCR2 pretty badly until I was able to make it fit
near properly.

Now, with a better fit and pedals that I can actually get into, the only thing I miss is a triple
crank, but the fit and pedals make it possible for me to survive the double anyway.

--
Rick Onanian

Rick Onanian said:

Bob M said:

Quoted message said:

Fit is *the* key issue on a road bike, especially so on your first one.

Quoted message said:

Fit is definitely important. I have a Trek that I've had to buy certain

I'll third that motion. I regretted my Giant TCR2 pretty badly until I was able to make it fit
near properly.

Now, with a better fit and pedals that I can actually get into, the only thing I miss is a triple
crank, but the fit and pedals make it possible for me to survive the double anyway.

If you have the square bottom bracket, you can get a 110 BCD crank that'll lighten the load. They
are hard to find, but not impossible. I ordered just such a crank for my Trek until I bought my new
bike, which has a triple. I'm keeping my Trek as an indoor training type of bike.

--
Bob M in CT Remove 'x.' to reply

"Rick Onanian" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Bob M said:

Quoted message said:

Fit is *the* key issue on a road bike, especially so on your first

one.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Fit is definitely important. I have a Trek that I've had to buy

certain

Quoted message said:

I'll third that motion. I regretted my Giant TCR2 pretty badly until I was able to make it fit
near properly.

Now, with a better fit and pedals that I can actually get into, the only thing I miss is a triple
crank, but the fit and pedals make it possible for me to survive the double anyway.

--
Rick Onanian

I certainly am enjoying my TCR2 , - (but you wouldn't call that a cheap bike , would you, at about a
grand, in pounds that is?) And by the way, there are only very few instances when I wish for a
triple chain ring.

Fred

Bob M said:

Quoted message said:

into, the only thing I miss is a triple crank, but the

If you have the square bottom bracket, you can get a 110 BCD crank that'll lighten the load. They
are hard to find, but not impossible. I

Good point. I might just do that if I find I'm still unhappy with this bike. Maybe I can find it
with longer crankarms, too, though that might affect my fit badly.
--
Rick Onanian

Fred 'Fred'@invalid.btinternet.com said:

I certainly am enjoying my TCR2 , - (but you wouldn't call that a cheap bike , would you, at about
a grand, in pounds that is?)

I got it discounted for $1,000. It's not a cheap bike, but it is no high-end or even mid-range road
racing bike -- it's just a darn good value. Under 20 pounds [weight], for $1,000.

Quoted message said:

And by the way, there are only very few instances when I wish for a triple chain ring.

I have to say, this bike does GO when I actually put my legs into it; I just don't get the
opportunity to leisurely climb at a slow, spinning pace. All my climbs on this bike are racing
climbs [though, I'm sure, not proper racing technique].

Quoted message said:

Fred

--
Rick Onanian