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Looking for 1/8" ABS plastic board...??

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Cycling Equipment
Published
24 May 2004
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12 June 2004
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Jeff Potter
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  1. I'm trying to find a piece of 12" square ABS plastic board that's 1/8"
    thick. I need two such pieces or the equivalent size board.

    I'm fabricating chainring guards for a 66-tooth Paragon ring on my
    lowracer fullyfaired HPV.

    Paragon no longer makes rings or guards for them.

    My only need is to keep a chain from derailing---it won't get a lot of
    wear and tear.

    Basically I need two rings about 11.5" in diameter and about 2" wide
    (bolt-holes are in the outer part of the ring).

    I've heard there's a company/website called Mc?-Carr that sells
    plastic stuff in small amounts.

    --JP

  2. On 24 May 2004 12:51:01 -0700, [email hidden] (Jeff Potter) may

    have said:

    I'm trying to find a piece of 12" square ABS plastic board that's 1/8"
    thick. I need two such pieces or the equivalent size board.

    I've heard there's a company/website called Mc?-Carr that sells
    plastic stuff in small amounts.

    That would be these people:

    http://www.mcmaster.com/

    --
    My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
    Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
    Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

  3. Jeff,

    Sounds like you are thinking of McMaster-Carr. Here is their URL:

    www.mcmaster.com

    Hope this helps.

    Gary
    "Jeff Potter" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I'm trying to find a piece of 12" square ABS plastic board that's 1/8"
    thick. I need two such pieces or the equivalent size board.

    I'm fabricating chainring guards for a 66-tooth Paragon ring on my
    lowracer fullyfaired HPV.

    Paragon no longer makes rings or guards for them.

    My only need is to keep a chain from derailing---it won't get a lot of
    wear and tear.

    Basically I need two rings about 11.5" in diameter and about 2" wide
    (bolt-holes are in the outer part of the ring).

    I've heard there's a company/website called Mc?-Carr that sells
    plastic stuff in small amounts.

    --JP

  4. On 24 May 2004 12:51:01 -0700 (Jeff Potter) said:

    I'm trying to find a piece of 12" square ABS plastic board that's 1/8"
    thick. I need two such pieces or the equivalent size board.

    The company is McMaster-Carr. Go to www.McMaster.com.

    -
    -----------------------------------------------
    Jim Adney [email hidden]
    Madison, WI 53711 USA
    -----------------------------------------------

  5. [email hidden] (Jeff Potter) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    I'm trying to find a piece of 12" square ABS plastic board that's 1/8"
    thick. I need two such pieces or the equivalent size board.


    snippp

    Is "ABS" required? Lowes & Home Despot sell polycarbonate in 1/8"...
    Also goes under the trade name Lexan... Cuts easily with a scroll saw.
    This stuff is bullet proof. Drills & sands easy, but you can't break
    it with a hammer... dale

  6. Ploycarb is 15% heavier than ABS, is more expensive thasn ABS and it comes
    in metric thicknesses, i.e. 3mm=.117" .
    "dalev" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    [email hidden] (Jeff Potter) wrote in message


    news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I'm trying to find a piece of 12" square ABS plastic board that's 1/8"
    thick. I need two such pieces or the equivalent size board.


    snippp

    Is "ABS" required? Lowes & Home Despot sell polycarbonate in 1/8"...
    Also goes under the trade name Lexan... Cuts easily with a scroll saw.
    This stuff is bullet proof. Drills & sands easy, but you can't break
    it with a hammer... dale

  7. Is Lexan brittle? I thought that's the main problem with the plastic
    board commonly available. Actually the Depot people said they had
    plexiglass---that sounds brittle to me. Is Lexan the same? Or similar
    in terms of brittleness? --JP

  8. On 26 May 2004 06:47:41 -0700, [email hidden] (Jeff Potter)

    Quoted message said:

    Is Lexan brittle? I thought that's the main problem with the plastic
    board commonly available. Actually the Depot people said they had
    plexiglass---that sounds brittle to me. Is Lexan the same? Or similar
    in terms of brittleness? --JP

    Plexiglass- acrylic- is BRITTLE! I wouldn't use it for any structural
    element. It will crack easily, especially at a bolt hole. When it does
    shatter, it has sharp edges- not good for any accident on a bike.

    Lexan is polycarbonate. It is NOT brittle. Very good for fairings,
    chain guards, etc. Not the easiest to machine- tends to melt, discolor
    slightly, and leave burrs, but these can be scraped away. Doesn't take
    paint easily, though.

    ABS- acrylic butyl stryrene?- is not brittle. It does come in
    different 'mixes,' where they change the ratio of the major materials,
    which leads to different qualities. Takes paint pretty well, and comes
    in a few stock colors.

    For a chainguard/chainring guard, I'd go with the polycarbonate first,
    ABS second, and masonite before acrylic 🙂

    If you have are willing to search around, you can probably find a
    local laser cutter who will have materials in stock. Send them an
    accurate drawing or sketch (preferably a computer file- .dwg or .eps
    most likely- or expect to pay a bit for their CAD time) and they will
    cut it cleanly. An example-
    http://www.pololu.com/laser_cutting.html

    This firm does very nice work- I use them al the time- but they aren't
    the cheapest and they have a $75 minimum-
    http://www.lasercut.com/

  9. "Dan Daniel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    On 26 May 2004 06:47:41 -0700, [email hidden] (Jeff Potter)

    Quoted message said:

    Is Lexan brittle? I thought that's the main problem with the plastic
    board commonly available. Actually the Depot people said they had
    plexiglass---that sounds brittle to me. Is Lexan the same? Or similar
    in terms of brittleness? --JP

    Plexiglass- acrylic- is BRITTLE! I wouldn't use it for any structural
    element. It will crack easily, especially at a bolt hole. When it does
    shatter, it has sharp edges- not good for any accident on a bike.

    Lexan is polycarbonate. It is NOT brittle. Very good for fairings,
    chain guards, etc. Not the easiest to machine- tends to melt, discolor
    slightly, and leave burrs, but these can be scraped away. Doesn't take
    paint easily, though.

    ABS- acrylic butyl stryrene?- is not brittle. It does come in
    different 'mixes,' where they change the ratio of the major materials,
    which leads to different qualities. Takes paint pretty well, and comes
    in a few stock colors.


    Pretty close. It's Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene. For chunks from McMaster
    it will probably be black with a hair cell texture one side. From the scap
    bin at a plastics supplier (Laird, Regal, Caddialc etc) you might find
    choices. PVC type2 would be another choice (grey, about the same density as
    polycarbonate.

    Quoted message said:

    For a chainguard/chainring guard, I'd go with the polycarbonate first,
    ABS second, and masonite before acrylic 🙂

    I'd never use acrylic for a chaingard. It is too brittle. However another
    material called Sintra, a foam pvc sheet sold through distributers is
    lighter than straight PVC and Polycarbonate (Lexan) and has good UV
    stability.

    Quoted message said:


    If you have are willing to search around, you can probably find a
    local laser cutter who will have materials in stock. Send them an
    accurate drawing or sketch (preferably a computer file- .dwg or .eps
    most likely- or expect to pay a bit for their CAD time) and they will
    cut it cleanly. An example-
    http://www.pololu.com/laser_cutting.html

    I know that acrylic is often laser cut for signs etc, ABS doesn't cut well
    with laser (too much smoke), but I'm not sure about polycarbonate. Not all
    plastics lase well. Waterjet cutting works well, but unless you want several
    parts, the set up and programming charges will be a killer. Plan on using a
    scroll saw, drill, files and sandpaper and lots of elbow grease.

    Quoted message said:


    This firm does very nice work- I use them al the time- but they aren't
    the cheapest and they have a $75 minimum-
    http://www.lasercut.com/

  10. harv said:


    "Dan Daniel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    On 26 May 2004 06:47:41 -0700, [email hidden] (Jeff Potter)
    wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    ABS- acrylic butyl stryrene?- is not brittle. It does come in
    different 'mixes,' where they change the ratio of the major materials,
    which leads to different qualities. Takes paint pretty well, and comes
    in a few stock colors.


    Pretty close. It's Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene.

    THanks for the correct name.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    For a chainguard/chainring guard, I'd go with the polycarbonate first,
    ABS second, and masonite before acrylic 🙂

    I'd never use acrylic for a chaingard. It is too brittle. However another
    material called Sintra, a foam pvc sheet sold through distributers is
    lighter than straight PVC and Polycarbonate (Lexan) and has good UV
    stability.

    Quoted message said:

    I wonder how it would do as a chainguard. It doesn't shatter, but it
    does chip and flake and bend easier than the other materials you
    mention.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    If you have are willing to search around, you can probably find a
    local laser cutter who will have materials in stock. Send them an
    accurate drawing or sketch (preferably a computer file- .dwg or .eps
    most likely- or expect to pay a bit for their CAD time) and they will
    cut it cleanly. An example-
    http://www.pololu.com/laser_cutting.html

    I know that acrylic is often laser cut for signs etc, ABS doesn't cut well
    with laser (too much smoke), but I'm not sure about polycarbonate. Not all
    plastics lase well. Waterjet cutting works well, but unless you want several
    parts, the set up and programming charges will be a killer. Plan on using a
    scroll saw, drill, files and sandpaper and lots of elbow grease.

    Quoted message said:

    I've had 1/8 inch ABS lasercut with excellent results.

    Polycarbonate discolors at the cut point. You get a brown tint right
    along the cut edge. And a melt ridge- very slight. Sometimes it will
    burn and or melt right at the cut edge, depending on how well the
    operator sets up and runs the machine. Most of this can be scraped
    away, but the brown tint is best sanded away. The most annoying thing
    is that the paper masking gets sealed into place along the edges- a
    royal pain to remove because you have to do serious scraping of the
    edges.

    A disk sander will make doing it manually go very fast!

  11. "Dan Daniel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    harv said:


    "Dan Daniel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    On 26 May 2004 06:47:41 -0700, [email hidden] (Jeff Potter)
    wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    ABS- acrylic butyl stryrene?- is not brittle. It does come in
    different 'mixes,' where they change the ratio of the major materials,
    which leads to different qualities. Takes paint pretty well, and comes
    in a few stock colors.


    Pretty close. It's Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene.

    THanks for the correct name.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    For a chainguard/chainring guard, I'd go with the polycarbonate first,
    ABS second, and masonite before acrylic 🙂

    I'd never use acrylic for a chaingard. It is too brittle. However another
    material called Sintra, a foam pvc sheet sold through distributers is
    lighter than straight PVC and Polycarbonate (Lexan) and has good UV
    stability.

    Quoted message said:

    I wonder how it would do as a chainguard. It doesn't shatter, but it
    does chip and flake and bend easier than the other materials you
    mention.

    You could buy a chaingard from the Hostel Shoppe like the one on my
    Speedmachine for about $30. It's metal. Doesn't flake or chip, has a nice
    rounded profile.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    If you have are willing to search around, you can probably find a
    local laser cutter who will have materials in stock. Send them an
    accurate drawing or sketch (preferably a computer file- .dwg or .eps
    most likely- or expect to pay a bit for their CAD time) and they will
    cut it cleanly. An example-
    http://www.pololu.com/laser_cutting.html

    I know that acrylic is often laser cut for signs etc, ABS doesn't cut


    well

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    with laser (too much smoke), but I'm not sure about polycarbonate. Not


    all

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    plastics lase well. Waterjet cutting works well, but unless you want


    several

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    parts, the set up and programming charges will be a killer. Plan on using


    a

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    scroll saw, drill, files and sandpaper and lots of elbow grease.

    Quoted message said:

    I've had 1/8 inch ABS lasercut with excellent results.

    Thanks for the clarification. Now I remember that we were experimenting with
    a flame retardant grade of ABS, and it kind of smoked a lot and sort of
    melted. Could be that more modern lasers (pulse/gas curtain???) would do a
    better job.

    Quoted message said:


    Polycarbonate discolors at the cut point. You get a brown tint right
    along the cut edge. And a melt ridge- very slight. Sometimes it will
    burn and or melt right at the cut edge, depending on how well the
    operator sets up and runs the machine. Most of this can be scraped
    away, but the brown tint is best sanded away. The most annoying thing
    is that the paper masking gets sealed into place along the edges- a
    royal pain to remove because you have to do serious scraping of the
    edges.

    A disk sander will make doing it manually go very fast!

  12. harv said:

    ...
    I know that acrylic is often laser cut for signs etc, ABS doesn't cut well
    with laser (too much smoke), but I'm not sure about polycarbonate. Not all
    plastics lase well. Waterjet cutting works well, but unless you want several
    parts, the set up and programming charges will be a killer. Plan on using a
    scroll saw, drill, files and sandpaper and lots of elbow grease....

    Polycarbonate can be cut with side cutters, a Dremel tool cutoff wheel,
    etc., and then sanded smooth. I have done this on kit fairings from Zzip
    Designs and Mueller Human Power.

    The Dremel tool makes a horrible noise when cutting thin polycarbonate
    sheeting.

    There are also special bits for drilling holes in polymer sheeting -
    regular bits will work but can leave a messy edge on the exit side of
    the hole.

    --
    Tom Sherman – Quad City Area

  13. Tom Sherman said:

    harv wrote:

    Quoted message said:

    There are also special bits for drilling holes in polymer sheeting -
    regular bits will work but can leave a messy edge on the exit side of
    the hole.

    You can get much cleaner drill holes in plastic with reduced or no
    breakthorugh by flattening the cutting edge of the drill bit. How to
    describe..... take a small fine sharpening stone and lay it against
    the cutting edge on end of the bit, Move the stone radially,
    flattening the edge slightly.

    Not perfect for drilling in open air, but works well when drilling
    against a solid surface, like using a drill press with a wood board
    underneath.

  14. Dan Daniel <[email hidden]> wrote in
    news:[email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:

    On 26 May 2004 06:47:41 -0700, [email hidden] (Jeff Potter)

    Quoted message said:

    Is Lexan brittle? I thought that's the main problem with the plastic
    board commonly available. Actually the Depot people said they had
    plexiglass---that sounds brittle to me. Is Lexan the same? Or similar
    in terms of brittleness? --JP

    Plexiglass- acrylic- is BRITTLE! I wouldn't use it for any structural
    element. It will crack easily, especially at a bolt hole. When it does
    shatter, it has sharp edges- not good for any accident on a bike.

    Lexan is polycarbonate. It is NOT brittle. Very good for fairings,
    chain guards, etc. Not the easiest to machine- tends to melt, discolor
    slightly, and leave burrs, but these can be scraped away. Doesn't take
    paint easily, though.

    ABS- acrylic butyl stryrene?- is not brittle. It does come in
    different 'mixes,' where they change the ratio of the major materials,
    which leads to different qualities. Takes paint pretty well, and comes
    in a few stock colors.


    .....

    What paints, etc., are safe to use on polycarbonate? What surface prep
    needed?

    I'd like cover over all the marks and stains and scratches, since I don't
    look through the fairing much anyway.

    Thanks,
    --
    Dave
    98GTW
    [email hidden]
    (remove nospam to reply directly)
    Presto, Presto II, Screamer

  15. "98GTW" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Dan Daniel <[email hidden]> wrote in
    news:[email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:

    On 26 May 2004 06:47:41 -0700, [email hidden] (Jeff Potter)

    Quoted message said:

    Is Lexan brittle? I thought that's the main problem with the plastic
    board commonly available. Actually the Depot people said they had
    plexiglass---that sounds brittle to me. Is Lexan the same? Or similar
    in terms of brittleness? --JP

    Plexiglass- acrylic- is BRITTLE! I wouldn't use it for any structural
    element. It will crack easily, especially at a bolt hole. When it does
    shatter, it has sharp edges- not good for any accident on a bike.

    Lexan is polycarbonate. It is NOT brittle. Very good for fairings,
    chain guards, etc. Not the easiest to machine- tends to melt, discolor
    slightly, and leave burrs, but these can be scraped away. Doesn't take
    paint easily, though.

    ABS- acrylic butyl stryrene?- is not brittle. It does come in
    different 'mixes,' where they change the ratio of the major materials,
    which leads to different qualities. Takes paint pretty well, and comes
    in a few stock colors.


    ....

    What paints, etc., are safe to use on polycarbonate? What surface prep
    needed?

    I'd like cover over all the marks and stains and scratches, since I don't
    look through the fairing much anyway.

    Thanks,
    --
    Dave
    98GTW
    [email hidden]
    (remove nospam to reply directly)
    Presto, Presto II, Screamer

    You should probably look for tech info on general electric website or google
    for painting polycarbonate. Our experience has been that aromatic
    hydrocarbons like MEK will make pc shatter.

  16. On 27 May 2004 07:56:06 -0400, 98GTW <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    What paints, etc., are safe to use on polycarbonate? What surface prep
    needed?

    Krylon makes spraypaints specifically for use on various plastic
    surfaces.
    --
    Rick Onanian

  17. "Jeff Potter" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I'm trying to find a piece of 12" square ABS plastic board that's 1/8"
    thick. I need two such pieces or the equivalent size board.

    I'm fabricating chainring guards for a 66-tooth Paragon ring on my
    lowracer fullyfaired HPV.

    Paragon no longer makes rings or guards for them.

    My only need is to keep a chain from derailing---it won't get a lot of
    wear and tear.

    Basically I need two rings about 11.5" in diameter and about 2" wide
    (bolt-holes are in the outer part of the ring).

    I've heard there's a company/website called Mc?-Carr that sells
    plastic stuff in small amounts.

    --JP

    That would be McMaster-Carr. They probably have a website with sales.

    Also try looking for companies that provide materials for aircraft and
    ultralight planes.

    Regards,

    Tom

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