being a very belated TR for a visit to Scotland for the last two
weeks in June (and just a touch of July). My apologies for any
mis-spellings of hill and stream names; I can't read the writing in my
notebook!
Most of my walking is in the Lakes, so the tougher Scottish terrain
is quite a challenge at first. But this turned out to be a stunning
holiday, probably one of the best I've ever had; and Inverpolly was simply
something else. I've seen a lot of beautiful country, but nothing to
compare with this.
And many thanks to the URW member who recommended "Exploring the Far
North West of Scotland" by Richard Gilbert; a wonderful book by a man who
really knows the area.
Saturday (this isn't Scotland!)
========
Broke the journey on the way up by stopping in Swindale in the Lakes,
and heading up towards Selside Pike. A warm, muggy, still day. The top
was in mist, but there were good views over the lovely Swindale valley
below the mist.
There was clearly an organised walk on; I met a succession of people
heading over Selside Pike, down Rowantree Force, and crossing the beck
near Truss Gap. One of them asked me (while I was sitting at the top of
Selside Pike having my lunch) whether I were a checkpoint! Very
surprising to see this normally-deserted part of the District so full.
A quick dip in a quiet beck (well away from the walking party), and
then back to the car and the deceptively long drive up to Ballachulish.
Sunday
======
The forecast promised that the cloud was going to lift, so I decided
to take the Creag Ghorm ridge to Sgorr Dhonuill, walking a pleasant forest
track from Ballachulish. At the start of the day, the cloud was down
almost to sea-level; it gradually lifted, but not really quickly enough.
I followed the route in the SMC guide (the land had changed a little since
it was written, but it was easy enough to work out what I should be
doing). A steep but easy ascent to the deer fence, and then pretty well
immediately back into the cloud at 460m. I stopped to have lunch to see if
the cloud would lift further. It didn't. I decided to head back down,
but the sun came out, so I thought I'd give it another go. The cloud
hadn't lifted much, but I got close to the top of Creag Ghorm (I was on a
subsidiary summit, I imagine, but couldn't see anything around me at all).
Rather than explore, and possibly lose my route down, I went back. Despite
not getting to the top, a good day.
Monday
======
The Web forecasts were disappointing, but Mike, the co-owner of the B
& B I was staying at, had a good line in forecasts of his own; and he said
the day would improve. It did. Following the Rambler's Guide (written by
Chris Townsend of this parish) I headed down Gleann an Fhiodh and crossed
over to the ridge of Sgorr a Choise. Not an easy route; I ended up in
very thick, wet scrub immediately after crossing the river. But no
difficulties, and Sgorr a Choise's top was clear of mist even though the
tops of the high hills had gone. Had lunch just below the top, and then
headed off on the ridge route for Meall Mor. The sun was out by now, and
the views were excellent. Then down towards the forest, and through it to
the radio tower above Ballachulish with more good views. I've done this
walk before, but it was good to see where I was going this time!
Tuesday
=======
A similar forecast to yesterday; I decided to head for Fraochaidh, a
good 7 miles away. It had been a very windy night, and there were still
gusts of wind and the odd shower. The map shows a clear path heading up
to the ridge between Sgorr a Choise and Fraochaidh; I didn't find this in
ascent, except either side of a crossing point (which wasn't the official
one; the water was knee-deep and the crossing not entirely trivial).
Then through more scrub (but easier than yesterday) to the forest fence,
which accompanied me the whole way. This was a comfort when I wasn't sure
about the visibility. The wind picked up again, and I wrapped myself up
as warmly as I could for lunch in a fairly sheltered spot. Along the
ridge over the 718m and along towards the main top. This was now in
cloud; I was feeling pretty cold; and I didn't fancy a narrow ridge in a
gusty wind. So I turned back. (I would have carried on in similar
conditions later in the holiday, but I was still getting aclimatised).
On the way down, the main top cleared, the wind dropped, and there
was even some sun! I found the "official" path, which led down to a
largish cairn of orange stone at an easy river crossing. And so back to
Ballachulish. A good day.
Wednesday
=========
Now off to Ullapool for a week, but broke the journey near Spean
Bridge by parking near Corriechoille. I'd intended to follow the
tramline, but work was in progress and signs requested that people took
another route. So I walked through the forest to the dam on the Cour. A
long walk, but good views over to Aonach Mor and the Ben. Stopped for
lunch just below the dam; above is a *magnificent* waterfall. Then back
to the car, and on with the journey!
Thursday
========
Tried for Stac Pollaidh on my first full day in the North-West
(staying at a B & B in a village close to the town). It was wet as I
headed up, and mist was swirling around the top of the mountain, very
impressively. Climbed the surprisingly easy path to the col, but was then
unsure where to go in the mist and gusty wind. So headed back down,
hoping that the day would improve, as it had on most of my trip to date.
Stopped for lunch looking north-west over lochans to the Atlantic and
beyond. Utterly stunning.
Tried again for the top after lunch; the weather was hardly
wonderful, but I got to the higher of the two eastern tops without any
problems. Then headed out (on the advice of another resident of the B &
B) to Achiltibuie and the beach. I really hadn't expected this: a beach
of Cornish standard, rocky outline, clean sand, light blue sea, and
(because this was the North) a cold wind! Magnificent.
Friday
======
I had hoped to climb Cul Mor, but the cloud was very low, so I did
the circuit of Cam Loch. I began by taking the wrong bridge and starting
the (much larger) circuit of Loch Veyatie! But my GPS soon put me right,
fortunately. Rain came and went, but the wind dropped and the light
improved as the day went on. A tiring day (there's no clear path for most
of the way), but a good one.
Saturday
========
Woke to find the cloud a lot higher than yesterday: so this *was* the
day for Cul Mor! Parked at Knockin Crag visitors' centre, and took the
stalker's path; but rather than go to the corrie and hence up, I climbed
the east ridge to the south top; rocky and very enjoyable, with excellent
views. Then down a fine ridge to the col, and along to the western top.
This gave very fine views of the ridge leading to the main top, reminding
me rather of the High Crag/High Stile ridge of Buttermere. The descent
was now down the "rocky" north-east ridge. I didn't pay enough attention
here, and ended up in a boulder field (I *hate* these). I should actually
have kept to the left on grass, and noted a marker cairn. But there was
no lasting problem. Then back to the stalker's path and the car. A very
fine day with astonishing views on a fabulous hill.
Sunday
======
A bit of an adventure on Quinag. Parked at the (rather full) car
park at the top of the pass to Kylesku. The stalker's path led to some
slabby rock (pointed out by my hosts) which led easily up to the ridge and
Spidean Coinich. It was already a breezy day, and getting gustier. I
tried to follow a compass bearing to the ridge, and the descent looked
plausible at first. Fortunately, the mist lifted for just a moment to let
me see that the ridge led off at a different point; I would have ended up
descending *rapidly* if I'd continued my original journey! Took the
narrowing ridge down to the col; this was steep, and the wind was gusty.
Normally, I wouldn't have enjoyed this challenging walking in a strong
wind at *all*. This time, however, I found myself actually enjoying the
difficult conditions; a first for me.
Getting down to the main col, there seemed to be a bit of a mass
exodus! It could have been everyone heading off for Sunday lunch, but
more likely they didn't like the conditions. Over the anonymous 745m top;
the col beyond looked *spectacular* as the wind blew the mist around!
Then to Sail Ghorm and back over the anonymous top, and finally to Sail
Gharbh, the main top. Everyone now seemed to have disappeared, and
walking back into the teeth of the wind was a challenge.
Then finally down to the col, and the stalker's path, and the car.
My car was the only one left in the car park; a very nice feeling to think
that I'd had this magnificent hill to myself, at least for a short while.
My host's favourite hill, and I can absolutely see why. Probably one of
my best hill days ever, despite less than perfect conditions. I looked at
Richard Gilbert's book that night; it said that Quinag should only be
climbed by experienced walkers when in mist or high wind. Oh well!
Monday
======
A slightly shorter day was in the offing (I had to refill the car,
and had kindly been invited to supper). Headed over to Inchnadamph and
took the stalker's path up the lovely Gleann Dubh. The cloud started at
about 500m, but gradually lifted. Climbed the eroded peaty track to a
waterfall, where a scramble led to a very fine amphitheatre. Much of this
was lost in mist, so I stopped for lunch to let it lift. The geography
was confusing in the poor visibility, and the 860m top of Beinn an Fhurain
hard to find. I found it in the end, but above a steep field of large
boulders; not the way I wanted to climb. So I contoured round a lochan to
an easier (but still very stony) slope leading to the top. Fine views of
Conival and Ben More Assynt (when the cloud allowed).
I'd planned to go north to Bienn Vidhe and Glas Bheinn, but all I
could see of these hills was a rounded semi-cylinder of cloud. It
actually looked rather beautiful, but it was clear I couldn't carry on;
the geography would have been very confusing in mist. So back down the
Gleann in warm sunshine accompanied by a blue sky, and back to the car.
I didn't do all I had hoped to, but it was a very fine day none the less.
Tuesday
=======
A hard and disappointing final day in the North West. I headed for
Suilven from Elphin, parking close to the Cam Loch. It was cloudy, and
the top of Suilven was in mist; but I hoped that the day would improve.
By my calculation, it would be slightly over a 16-mile day. I lost the
path fairly soon, but this didn't seem to be a problem as the ground
seemed easy and the visibility was clear. Until suddenly the mist hit; I
had lunch, but it wasn't going away. I was in an area of low tops and
lochans, and it was impossible to find a route by inspection; so out came
the GPS, and I headed down steep vegetated and stony slopes to Loch na
Gainimh below Suilven. I was now an hour late, and out of time to make
the top; so I had a dip in a lochan below the hill (the closest I was
going to get to it) and headed sadly back.
The return journey was easier as long as I could find the path. The
sun was baking later in the afternoon; getting into a lochan, I thought,
"this feels really delightful"; normally getting into wild water, I think,
"this is freezing my bits off". The path faded to a straight-line track
over rough ground; not easy when you're already tired: I took a while to
find the simple route to the car. A good day, but I did find it hard to
have put in so much effort and not actually gain the summit.
Wednesday
=========
Driving back down to Kinlochleven, so no time for a serious walk; but
I had a dip in a delightful rock pool in Gleann Dubh before heading off.
Thursday
========
Feeling rather more confident in the hills after my trip to the North
West, decided to head for Mam na Gualainn in the mist. (I'd normally be
nervous of heading up a Scottish hill I didn't know in mist.) Staying at
the McDonald hotel, which is convenient for the WHW; and I indeed headed
along the WHW to start the walk. Without any disrespect to the WHW and
those stalwart people who walk it, I found this part of the walk
disappointing. It was in fine scenery on a clear track, but I'd got so
used to walking quite alone that this seemed far too busy; it was a relief
to take the trod headed up to the Mam and leave the crowds (well, about
ten people) behind.
The mist came and went, but I made the top without any difficulty.
A memorial at the top bore the fine momento, "Keep on climbing, Tony".
The ridge was easy in the improving visibility, and the descent from Beinn
na Caillich no problem. An easy walk on a warm, muggy day; and I was
pleased to complete it in the guidebook's *minimum* time. Clearly I was
getting fitter!
Friday
======
Decided to take advantage of my apparently improved fitness and
hill-skills by tackling the eastern Mamores. It had rained overnight, and
the mist was low in the morning, but I thought I'd take the chance. As I
left the hotel, the mist broke, the sun came out, and a *magnificent* day
started. Headed up the WHW to Mamore Lodge, and then took the land-rover
track from there. The guidebook suggested a there-and-back trip to Sgurr
Elide Mor from Coire an Lochain, but this looked to me to be all stones
and scree (it was also higher than it appeared). As I was wearing Tevas,
this didn't seem a very comfortable route. So I headed on to the lochan
below Binnean Beag; the stalker's path here is lovely and ingenious, and
makes an easy journey out of some tricky landscape. I climbed Binnean
Beag by the scrambly ridge; in descent, it was easy to find paths to cut
out most of the scrambling. Lunch at the top of this fine hill. Then
back to the lochan and up Binnean Mor.
I worried needlessly about the steep grassy ascent to the ridge; this
was quite straightforward, and I could have found a zigzag track had I
looked a little harder. The route to the top was over a large boulder
field; I would actually have been better to take the path just by the
precipice (and in the end I did). But it required a bit of courage!
I'd been worrying about getting down off this hill (imagining yet
another boulder field), but the boulders gave way almost at once to a
sharpish and enjoyable ridge running towards Na Gruagaichean. The walking
here was supposed to be quite difficult. The descent was actually not too
bad; there was some slippery fine scree, which I avoided when I could by
scrambling. Heading up to the north-west top would have been easiest by
scrambling some easy rocks; but as the wind was hitting again, I took a
less interesting scree route. From there on the descent was easy, with
another excellent stalker's path making the journey a pleasure.
A very fine day in demanding country; and I kept pretty much to the
time in the guide-book!
Saturday
========
Wanted something easier for my last day before the long drive home,
so I headed up Garbh Bheinn from Caolasnacon. It got breezier as I headed
towards the top, but the panorama was stunning, if rather dull in the
heavy cloud. Then down to the Allt Gleann a Chaolais for my last dip of
the holiday.
Mark
--
Mark Manning [email hidden]