Lockrings or Locktite on fixed gear



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Carl Fogel wrote:

> Dear Bruce,
>
> For reasons beyond the comprehension of most people, many fixed-gear riders insist on riding with
> no brakes. They just fight the pedals and hope that their rear tire alone will stop them or that
> they can dodge.
>
> When informed of this bizarre cult, a friend of mine remarked that riding with deliberately
> ineffective braking offers all the exhilaration, sense of superiority, and irresponsibility of
> driving drunk without the hangover.
>
> I haven't thought of a good rebuttal yet.

Dear Carl,

Think of all the bicycles that have been sold that are equipped with only a rear coaster brake.
Fortunately, riders of these bikes rarely attempt high speeds.

Tom Sherman - Quad Cities
 
David L. Johnson <[email protected]> wrote:
: I can't imagine being that exhilarated. Even 34 years ago, when I got my first track bike
: (mostly for winter training), the first thing I did was put a brake on it, before venturing out
: on the road.

obviously not an adreneline junky.

well, neither am i. i did what you did. i would s/exhilarating/scary as ****/ and call it correct. i
do recognize that some people seem to enjoy scaring themselves into feeling alive. at least that has
always been my take on it.

god i feel old when i say things like that.
--
david reuteler [email protected]
 
OK, sorry for being such a dunce but what exactly does Locktite *do*? Is it some kind of glue? Does it increase the amount of loosening torque required by a factor of 2? 3? 10? 100? And what are the differences in the various types available?

I don't think I'd trust it on a fixie without a lockring based on everything I've read here and elsewhere and it seems like this thread has run its course but I would like to understand Locktite better.

Where else would it be used on a bike? Bottom bracket cups? I've done just about every mechanical thing you can do with a bike and have never used Locktite.
 
DiabloScott <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> OK, sorry for being such a dunce but what exactly does Locktite *do*? Is it some kind of glue?
> Does it increase the amount of loosening torque required by a factor of 2? 3? 10? 100? And what
> are the differences in the various types available?

<http://tinyurl.com/2llln>; or
<http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/subcategory.asp?CatID=10&SubID=48>; or google "loctite
threadlocker" also, see the FAQs.

> I don't think I'd trust it on a fixie without a lockring based on everything I've read here and
> elsewhere and it seems like this thread has run its course but I would like to understand
> Locktite better.

and some people really should worry about catching fire on water.

> Where else would it be used on a bike? Bottom bracket cups? I've done just about every mechanical
> thing you can do with a bike and have never used Locktite.

it's nice to use on touring bikes, fenders, racks & stuff, but not required. i used 'blue'
setting-up on a friend's TranAm bike and it POd the leader when he had to do something to the
bike. go figure.
 
DiabloScott <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> OK, sorry for being such a dunce but what exactly does Locktite *do*? Is it some kind of glue?
> Does it increase the amount of loosening torque required by a factor of 2? 3? 10? 100? And what
> are the differences in the various types available?
>
> I don't think I'd trust it on a fixie without a lockring based on everything I've read here and
> elsewhere and it seems like this thread has run its course but I would like to understand
> Locktite better.
>
> Where else would it be used on a bike? Bottom bracket cups? I've done just about every mechanical
> thing you can do with a bike and have never used Locktite.
>

Dear Diablo,

I almost looked things up, but decided that would be the coward's way out.

My guess is that the goo is a void-filler and feeble adhesive with various grades of stickiness.

By filling minute voids and providing a bit of stickiness, it reduces the danger of threaded
fasteners working loose under vibration and when tension varies because of mechanical changes like
metal parts expanding and contracting with heat cycles and gaskets compressing under load between
metal parts.

Proper tension and thread design achieve the same effect--that's what the right nuts and bolts do
with the help of washers.

The most adhesive grades of Loc-tite can set to glue-like stiffness and provide enormous
resistance to turning--the trick usually mentioned here on rec.bicycles.tech is to heat the part
and soften the goo.

The resistance may be partly due to the goo expanding slightly while setting and therefore gripping
the bolt inside the nut, but for all I know the stuff may contract.

In either case, the goo adds friction and resistance to turning because it fills in the tiny voids
between the bolt and nut threads.

A bare thread-to-thread contact has only the friction where metal touches metal, with no friction
where the metal surfaces fail to meet.

Threads liberally smeared with Loc-tite have most of these voids filled with long ribbons of rubbery
goo under compression wherever the metal failed to touch. Press two flat pieces of metal together
and try to turn them--they turn easily. Now sandwich a rubber mouse pad between them and feel how
the increased friction resists turning.

Despite what we see on the outside, where the goo often sticks to broad metal surfaces, there's not
likely to be much actual glue-like adhesion on what are fairly polished metal threads, usually so
oily that not much really sticks to them.

When Loc-tite "sticks," it's usually just hanging in a well-moulded embrace to a metal shape. A
screw with a smooth upper shaft will illustrate this. The ring of Loc-tite on the threaded section
seems to grip, but so does a tight nut, which is hardly "sticking" like glue. The same ring of Loc-
tite around the smooth metal shaft has no irregular shape to mould to and is easily moved. And up
where the smooth shaft joins the screw head, the Loc-tite may find some irregularities to cling to
and becomes a little stubborn again.

While the worst Loc-tite can help a screw or bottom-bracket put up a fierce fight against a
screwdriver or a bottom-bracket pin-spanner, it's unlikely to be a match for stress faced by the lock-
rings in this thread. I suspect that they work loose as a matter of design. A fixed-gear bike
applies force both ways, so it may work a threaded fastener loose, Loc-tite or not.

Think of pedals, which have left and right threads to prevent loosening under the torque of normal
pedalling. I don't recall any posts about pedals working loose on fixed-gear bikes, but the reason
is probably that the vast majority of fixed-gear pedalling is in the normal direction and tends to
tighten things, while only the braking at the end of a long session of forward pedalling tends to
loosen the pedals.

Cynically speaking, the primary purpose of Loc-tite is to mark threaded objects that we fear may
loosen. When reluctantly applied by the factory, it serves to highlight poor design.

Let's hope that my speculation provokes some better-informed comments on the stuff. When I looked
just now, I found that I still have a nearly thirty-year-old tube of the stuff, so it may not be
quite as necessary as I thought when I was a teen-ager.

Now I'll search and find out how it's really spelled.

Carl Fogel
 
On 20 Jan 2004 11:47:02 -0800, [email protected] (Carl Fogel)
wrote:
>By filling minute voids and providing a bit of stickiness, it reduces the danger of threaded
>fasteners working loose under vibration and when tension varies because of mechanical changes like
>metal parts expanding and contracting with heat cycles and gaskets compressing under load between
>metal parts.

This is, AFAIK, quite the point -- when vibrating, the fastener with loctite vibrates with the
fastenee, rather than against, so it does not vibrate itself loose. The loctite acts as a cushion,
too, preventing one's vibration from knocking the other around. Or something.

>Cynically speaking, the primary purpose of Loc-tite is to mark threaded objects that we fear may
>loosen. When reluctantly applied by the factory, it serves to highlight poor design.

I can report that it is effective against a badly designed pneumatic roof nailer. From the factory
or hand tightened as tight as possible, there are two different bolts on Hitachi NV45AB nailers that
come out constantly. Lately, when repairing these, I've begun using blue loctite on those bolts,
even if I don't need to disassemble those sections. The ones that have loctite do not vibrate loose.

>Let's hope that my speculation provokes some better-informed comments on the stuff. When I looked
>just now, I found that I still have a nearly thirty-year-old tube of the stuff, so it may not be
>quite as necessary as I thought when I was a teen-ager.

It's a problem-solver, not something necessary by default, much like a chain watcher (is that the
correct name?) -- used on individual bikes ("my bike does this..."), models ("your model is known to
do this..."), and styles ("single speed conversions with that type of crank commonly have this
problem...") known for dropping the chain to the inside of the crank.

>Now I'll search and find out how it's really spelled.
>
>Carl Fogel
--
Rick Onanian
 
Carl Fogel wrote:

> Now I'll search and find out how it's really spelled.

www.loctite.com

Dave dvt at psu dot edu
 
Rick Onanian (my spell checker wanted to substitute "Nonagon") wrote:

> I can report that it is effective against a badly designed pneumatic roof nailer. From the factory
> or hand tightened as tight as possible, there are two different bolts on Hitachi NV45AB nailers
> that come out constantly. Lately, when repairing these, I've begun using blue loctite on those
> bolts, even if I don't need to disassemble those sections. The ones that have loctite do not
> vibrate loose.

Had you previously tried lubing the threads with oil or grease?

Dry threads are generally a bad idea, because they generate too much friction when you tighten them.
This prevents the threads from screwing as tight as they should for a given amount of torque,
because so much of the torque is wasted overcoming the friction of the dry threads.

Sheldon "Rarely Loctites" Brown +----------------------------------------+
| Do not do unto others as you would | that they should do unto you. | Their tastes may not be the
| same. | --George Bernard Shaw |
+----------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-
9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
 
Originally posted by Carl Fogel

Dear Diablo,

I almost looked things up, but decided that would be the coward's way out.

<snip>

While the worst Loc-tite can help a screw or bottom-bracket put up a fierce fight against a
screwdriver or a bottom-bracket pin-spanner, it's unlikely to be a match for stress faced by the lock-
rings in this thread. I suspect that they work loose as a matter of design. A fixed-gear bike
applies force both ways, so it may work a threaded fastener loose, Loc-tite or not.

Think of pedals, which have left and right threads to prevent loosening under the torque of normal
pedalling. I don't recall any posts about pedals working loose on fixed-gear bikes, but the reason
is probably that the vast majority of fixed-gear pedalling is in the normal direction and tends to
tighten things, while only the braking at the end of a long session of forward pedalling tends to
loosen the pedals.

Carl Fogel

My dear esteemed colleague Carl:

Thanks for a pretty good lecture even if it was mostly conjecture.
I did find the Loctite website before posting earlier but there were so many products there (everything from superglue type adhesives to caulk) that I wasn't sure which ones people were using. Thanks to BCCleta for the direct link to the threadlock page.

This thread though is supposed to be about the difference between using Loctite on a cog without a lock ring, or a cog and lockring without Loctite, surely Loctite on both the cog and the lockring would give better results than either alone. I found an eBay guy who sells a lot of converted road bikes and some of them had lockrings and others didn't. I emailed him to ask why and he says that sometimes he puts 1/8" cogs on (a track standard) and there's not enough room on a freewheel hub to put a lockring on with that size cog. Sometimes he puts 3/32" (derailleur standard) cogs on and those bikes get lockrings.

Thinking of pedals on fixed gear bikes, backward resistance doesn't create any unscrewing forces because the bearings are still rotating in the same direction.
 
DiabloScott wrote:

> OK, sorry for being such a dunce but what exactly does Locktite *do*? Is it some kind of glue?
> Does it increase the amount of loosening torque required by a factor of 2? 3? 10? 100? And what
> are the differences in the various types available?
>
> I don't think I'd trust it on a fixie without a lockring based on everything I've read here and
> elsewhere and it seems like this thread has run its course but I would like to understand
> Locktite better.
>
> Where else would it be used on a bike? Bottom bracket cups? I've done just about every mechanical
> thing you can do with a bike and have never used Locktite.

It's an anaerobic adhesive. Once it is no longer in the presence of air, it crystallizes. It ships
with air space in the top of the bottle.

There are many grades with varying strength and resistance to various other environments/substances.

Most common grades (the ones we use here anyway) break down with heat - moderate heat like a
hair dryer.

It was originally developed to deal with vibration in threaded fasteners. Other grades fill space in
bearing case bores. If you stop into an auto parts store there are free pamphlets explaining the
features and applications of the various grades. Loctite is a brand name and Canadian, Staybond is
their competitor. Both make a full range of products.

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
>Rick Onanian (my spell checker wanted to substitute "Nonagon") wrote:

Hmm...I suppose "Nonagon" would be closer than many telemarketers get.

>> I can report that it is effective against a badly designed pneumatic roof nailer. From the
>> factory or hand tightened as tight as
<snip>

On Tue, 20 Jan 2004 17:00:03 -0500, Sheldon Brown <[email protected]> wrote:
>Had you previously tried lubing the threads with oil or grease?

Good point; I had meant to mention that. They usually are quite covered in oil -- and a point I had
wanted to make was that the loctite seems to work even when the bolt is oiled, so it's not
necessarily working by adhering to the bolt.

Some bolts are covered in tar and/or grit, too. The nailers are used for fastening asphalt shingles,
which gets tar all over everything.

>Dry threads are generally a bad idea, because they generate too much friction when you tighten
>them. This prevents the threads from screwing as tight as they should for a given amount of torque,
>because so much of the torque is wasted overcoming the friction of the dry threads.

I hadn't thought of that; I figured the oil was making it easier for the bolts to come out, but if I
never got them in well in the first place, it wouldn't matter.

>Sheldon "Rarely Loctites" Brown
--
Rick "Loctites roof guns, anyway" Onanian
 
Sheldon Brown <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Rick Onanian (my spell checker wanted to substitute "Nonagon") wrote:
>
> > I can report that it is effective against a badly designed pneumatic roof nailer. From the
> > factory or hand tightened as tight as possible, there are two different bolts on Hitachi NV45AB
> > nailers that come out constantly. Lately, when repairing these, I've begun using blue loctite on
> > those bolts, even if I don't need to disassemble those sections. The ones that have loctite do
> > not vibrate loose.
>
> Had you previously tried lubing the threads with oil or grease?
>
> Dry threads are generally a bad idea, because they generate too much friction when you tighten
> them. This prevents the threads from screwing as tight as they should for a given amount of
> torque, because so much of the torque is wasted overcoming the friction of the dry threads.
>
> Sheldon "Rarely Loctites" Brown +----------------------------------------+
> | Do not do unto others as you would | that they should do unto you. | Their tastes may not be
> | the same. | --George Bernard Shaw |
> +----------------------------------------+

Dear Sheldon,

A beautifully counter-intuitive point.

Wish that I'd flushed it out from wherever it was hiding.

Thanks,

Carl Fogel
 
Rick Onanian wrote:

> ... Some bolts are covered in tar and/or grit, too. The nailers are used for fastening asphalt
> shingles, which gets tar all over everything....

Asphalt comes from petroleum and tar comes from coal. While superficially similar, they are
chemically different (asphalt will dissolve in light petroleum based hydrocarbons such as toluene,
while tar will not).

Tom Sherman - Quad Cities
 
On Tue, 20 Jan 2004 21:33:19 -0600, Tom Sherman
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Rick Onanian wrote:
>> Some bolts are covered in tar and/or grit, too. The nailers are used for fastening asphalt
>> shingles, which gets tar all over everything....
>
>Asphalt comes from petroleum and tar comes from coal. While superficially similar, they are
>chemically different (asphalt will dissolve in light petroleum based hydrocarbons such as toluene,
>while tar will not).

Thank you. I had, at one time, searched for that knowledge, found it, lost it, queried it, found it
again, and subsequently fed it to my cat. Okay, I only found it once, and forgot it after that.

In the absence of correct facts, I had defaulted back to my strange imaginary construct of asphalt
being a product manufactured using tar along with other ingredients.

I'll try to remember to say "goo". ;)

>Tom Sherman - Quad Cities
--
Rick Onanian
 
On Tue, 20 Jan 2004 21:33:19 -0600, Tom Sherman wrote:

> Rick Onanian wrote:
>
>> ... Some bolts are covered in tar and/or grit, too. The nailers are used for fastening asphalt
>> shingles, which gets tar all over everything....
>
> Asphalt comes from petroleum and tar comes from coal. While superficially similar, they are
> chemically different (asphalt will dissolve in light petroleum based hydrocarbons such as toluene,
> while tar will not).

Yes, but "tar" is a generic word. In my experience, what really gets all over everything in roofing
is "roofing cement", usually called muck.

"Tar" also refers to that lovely mix of God-knows-what in cigarette smoke that we are always warned
about. See one of the Superman movies for Richard Prior's take on that.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | Accept risk. Accept responsibility. Put a lawyer out of _`\(,_ | business. (_)/ (_) |
 
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 01:34:00 -0500, "David L. Johnson"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Yes, but "tar" is a generic word.

This is, in fact, very true.

>In my experience, what really gets all over everything in roofing is "roofing cement", usually
>called muck.

While roof cement has a tendency to get irremovably all over everything, we use only where we can't
do it better without; and we often wait until the end of the job to apply it.

What gets all over the roof guns, as far as I can tell, is material from the shingles themselves.

>"Tar" also refers to that lovely mix of God-knows-what in cigarette smoke that we are always warned
>about. See one of the Superman movies for Richard Prior's take on that.

Ick.
--
Rick Onanian
 
DiabloScott <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...

[snip relevant stuff and get to the good part]

>
> Thinking of pedals on fixed gear bikes, backward resistance doesn't create any unscrewing forces
> because the bearings are still rotating in the same direction.
>

Dear Diablo,

I sorta-kinda think that you're right, but I'm not bright enough to work it out for sure.

If I follow you, you're saying that when a fixed-gear bike starts braking by fighting the pedals,
the pedals themselves continue rotating in the same direction (just slower), so there's no
unscrewing torque on the pedals?

Where I'm still puzzled (not disagreeing) is why reversing the force between the crank and the pedal
should have no effect.

On the same fixed-gear bicycle, the rear tire applies force in different directions, depending on
whether it's accelerating forward or braking.

Braking leads to unscrewing.

But the tire itself keeps rolling in the same direction, just like the crank, so why wouldn't the
pedals unscrew if you braked all the way down some huge descent?

I'm probably missing something here, so I'm hoping that you or someone else will take the trouble to
walk me through it.

Thanks,

Carl Fogel
 
good question!

if the bearing torque were the dominant factor, then the "unscrewing" force on the pedals is going
in the direction to unscrew pedal threads on both sides! but it's the rotational force on the
spindle caused by the shaft shifting around the hole that matters, and the direction for that is
/opposite/ to pedal rotation, so normal pedal motion requires pedals to be threaded right for right,
left for left.

correspondingly, resisting pedals in forward motion /does/ theoretically cause unscrewing.

but is it an issue? on big trucks, the l/h wheel studs are all l/h thread to help prevent
unscrewing. but cars are not! why? because at light loads and if properly torqued, they don't come
loose. so it's ignored regardless of the theoretical danger.

regarding pedal spindles, *if they are properly torqued*, there's no human strong enough to make
them unscrew, regardless of rotation direction. we can therefore safely ignore this risk.

jb

Carl Fogel wrote:
> DiabloScott <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:<[email protected]>...
>
> [snip relevant stuff and get to the good part]
>
>
>>Thinking of pedals on fixed gear bikes, backward resistance doesn't create any unscrewing forces
>>because the bearings are still rotating in the same direction.
>>
>
>
> Dear Diablo,
>
> I sorta-kinda think that you're right, but I'm not bright enough to work it out for sure.
>
> If I follow you, you're saying that when a fixed-gear bike starts braking by fighting the pedals,
> the pedals themselves continue rotating in the same direction (just slower), so there's no
> unscrewing torque on the pedals?
>
> Where I'm still puzzled (not disagreeing) is why reversing the force between the crank and the
> pedal should have no effect.
>
> On the same fixed-gear bicycle, the rear tire applies force in different directions, depending on
> whether it's accelerating forward or braking.
>
> Braking leads to unscrewing.
>
> But the tire itself keeps rolling in the same direction, just like the crank, so why wouldn't the
> pedals unscrew if you braked all the way down some huge descent?
>
> I'm probably missing something here, so I'm hoping that you or someone else will take the trouble
> to walk me through it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Carl Fogel
 
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