In order to get the right chainline, I'll need to run my 44t ring on
the middle of my FSA V-Drive mtn crank (4-bolt, 104bcd). Does anyone
make a "bash ring" for a 44t in 4-bolt? There's one on PricePoint,
but it's 6mm wide and weighs over a pound. This is for a single-speed
cross bike...so I'm not down for that sort of weight penalty. There
are a number of polycarb options that would be fine (50g), but they
only go to 36. I'm not all that knowledgeable on the mtn bike
industry offerings, so I'm looking for a little insight.
Cycling Equipment · Public discussion
Lite Bash-Ring - 44t?
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- Cycling Equipment
- Published
- 17 October 2007
- Last activity
- 18 October 2007
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- Andrew Martin
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Andrew Martin said:
In order to get the right chainline, I'll need to run my 44t ring on
the middle of my FSA V-Drive mtn crank (4-bolt, 104bcd). Does anyone
make a "bash ring" for a 44t in 4-bolt? There's one on PricePoint,
but it's 6mm wide and weighs over a pound. This is for a single-speed
cross bike...so I'm not down for that sort of weight penalty. There
are a number of polycarb options that would be fine (50g), but they
only go to 36. I'm not all that knowledgeable on the mtn bike
industry offerings, so I'm looking for a little insight.Some riders buy a chainring and snip off the teeth.
A pound of bashguard sounds like it may actually work, as opposed to
'poser' plastic guards. If you are riding where the likelihood of you
and your bike landing crank-first on a log or rock is real, get the
heavy one. Otherwise whichever looks good to you.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971 -
A Muzi said:
Andrew Martin said:
In order to get the right chainline, I'll need to run my 44t ring on
the middle of my FSA V-Drive mtn crank (4-bolt, 104bcd). Does anyone
make a "bash ring" for a 44t in 4-bolt?Some riders buy a chainring and snip off the teeth.
I was going to suggest that, because that's what I've done before
(turned off the teeth with a lathe), but I've never seen a 4-arm ring
big enough to have its teeth removed and still stand clear of the
chain on a 44t ring.Chalo
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Chalo said:
A Muzi said:
Andrew Martin wrote:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
In order to get the right chainline, I'll need to run my 44t ring on
the middle of my FSA V-Drive mtn crank (4-bolt, 104bcd). Does anyone
make a "bash ring" for a 44t in 4-bolt?Quoted message said:
Some riders buy a chainring and snip off the teeth.
I was going to suggest that, because that's what I've done before
(turned off the teeth with a lathe), but I've never seen a 4-arm ring
big enough to have its teeth removed and still stand clear of the
chain on a 44t ring.Chalo
Yeah - I have a 53t campy "chain guard" that I filed down from when I
ran 1x8 campy for cross.I did find a Salsa option...but it's beefy and ugly as sin:
104mm / Black 44 4
http://www.salsacycles.com/chainrings.html -
Chalo said:
A Muzi said:
Andrew Martin wrote:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
In order to get the right chainline, I'll need to run my 44t ring on
the middle of my FSA V-Drive mtn crank (4-bolt, 104bcd). Does anyone
make a "bash ring" for a 44t in 4-bolt?Quoted message said:
Some riders buy a chainring and snip off the teeth.
I was going to suggest that, because that's what I've done before
(turned off the teeth with a lathe), but I've never seen a 4-arm ring
big enough to have its teeth removed and still stand clear of the
chain on a 44t ring.Chalo
Then how about not removing the teeth?
OK, it won't slide over an obstacle like a "real" bash guard, but it
will protect the chain ring inside it.I would have thought of a rock ring on an CX bike as protection
against an unintentional smash, rather than for deliberately hitting
obstacles then sliding/hopping over them. If that's correct, the
teeth on the chainring won't matter so much, though they will look a
bit naff.bookieb
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bookieb said:
Chalo said:
A Muzi said:
Some riders buy a chainring and snip off the teeth.I was going to suggest that, because that's what I've done before
(turned off the teeth with a lathe), but I've never seen a 4-arm ring
big enough to have its teeth removed and still stand clear of the
chain on a 44t ring.Then how about not removing the teeth?
OK, it won't slide over an obstacle like a "real" bash guard, but it
will protect the chain ring inside it.I don't know about the OP's motivations, but I use a "bashguard" to
keep my pants out of the works, and to keep the chain from unshipping
on the outside. There's no bashing involved.Using a regular chainring would help hold the chain in place, but the
teeth would still be able to foul my clothing.Chalo
-
Chalo said:
bookieb said:
Chalo wrote:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
A Muzi wrote:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
> Some riders buy a chainring and snip off the teeth.
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
I was going to suggest that, because that's what I've done before
(turned off the teeth with a lathe), but I've never seen a 4-arm ring
big enough to have its teeth removed and still stand clear of the
chain on a 44t ring.Quoted message said:
Then how about not removing the teeth?
OK, it won't slide over an obstacle like a "real" bash guard, but it
will protect the chain ring inside it.I don't know about the OP's motivations, but I use a "bashguard" to
keep my pants out of the works, and to keep the chain from unshipping
on the outside. There's no bashing involved.Using a regular chainring would help hold the chain in place, but the
teeth would still be able to foul my clothing.Chalo- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Thx Chalo - that's another point I didn't mention. It's easy to keep
the outside ring clean if it's smooth (like a chain guard) rather than
a knarled chainring. Vuelta makes a simple looking guard as well, so
I'm going to go with one of those.
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