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Lights!!

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UK and Europe
Published
27 September 2004
Last activity
1 October 2004
Original author
Ian
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42
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  1. Got caught out the other night. Dark at 1900hrs - 10 miles from home!
    Bugger. Very nervous cycle ride down back roads to home.

    OK, I need lights for my road bike.

    Looked at some nice powerful Halogen stuff, but with a battery life of
    10ns :-(

    As usual, I'm clueless.

    I am quite interested in the "Cateye LD260 Front & Rear Light Set",
    but am not sure that the front light will be bright enough or have the
    beam reach. What about the "Cateye Light Set HL-560 + TL-AU100" set?
    Only snag seams to be is that it is bulky.

    Any other suggestions? What do you use, or wish you'd bought?

    Criteria.

    1. not too expensive
    2. effective brightness/beam reach
    3. reasonable battery life.
    4. quick fitting/removal.

  2. Ian said:

    Got caught out the other night. Dark at 1900hrs - 10 miles from home!
    Bugger. Very nervous cycle ride down back roads to home.

    OK, I need lights for my road bike.

    Looked at some nice powerful Halogen stuff, but with a battery life of
    10ns :-(

    As usual, I'm clueless.

    I am quite interested in the "Cateye LD260 Front & Rear Light Set",
    but am not sure that the front light will be bright enough or have the
    beam reach.

    It won't. All the LEDs are marginal and this is Cateye's least
    powerful. The halogen lamps that take 4 AA cells are just about OK for
    slow speed riding.

  3. On Mon, 27 Sep 2004 20:47:40 +0100 someone who may be Ian
    <[email hidden]> wrote this:-

    Quoted message said:

    As usual, I'm clueless.

    Obviously.

    The subject is being discussed in another thread in uk.rec.cycling
    at the moment and Google will call up numerous threads on the same
    subject.

    --
    David Hansen, Edinburgh | PGP email preferred-key number F566DA0E
    I will always explain revoked keys, unless the UK government
    prevents me by using the RIP Act 2000.

  4. David Hansen said:

    The subject is being discussed in another thread in uk.rec.cycling
    at the moment and Google will call up numerous threads on the same
    subject.

    Thanks for the pointer.

    You've OBVIOUSLY had a bad day.
    I see your othe recent posts in a similair vain. Rude, short tempered
    and with a bad attitude :-(

  5. In article <[email hidden]>, Ian

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    The subject is being discussed in another thread in uk.rec.cycling
    at the moment and Google will call up numerous threads on the same
    subject.

    Quoted message said:

    Thanks for the pointer.

    Quoted message said:

    You've OBVIOUSLY had a bad day. I see your othe recent posts in a
    similair vain. Rude, short tempered and with a bad attitude :-(

    You must be reading a different ng from the one that I am. The reply
    seemed to be perfectly OK here.

    --
    A T (Sandy) Morton
    on the Bicycle Island
    In the Global Village
    http://www.millport.net

  6. On Mon, 27 Sep 2004 21:53:58 +0100 someone who may be Ian
    <[email hidden]> wrote this:-

    Quoted message said:

    You've OBVIOUSLY had a bad day.

    Don't give up the day job and take up mind reading for a living. You
    will not be very good at it.

    Quoted message said:

    I see your othe recent posts in a similair vain. Rude, short tempered
    and with a bad attitude :-(

    Nice try.

    Baby birds may be appealing sitting on their backsides, with open
    beaks, squawking and expecting mummy or daddy bird to push food down
    their throat. The same does not apply to humans.

    --
    David Hansen, Edinburgh | PGP email preferred-key number F566DA0E
    I will always explain revoked keys, unless the UK government
    prevents me by using the RIP Act 2000.

  7. Upon the miasma of midnight, a darkling spirit identified as Ian
    <[email hidden]> gently breathed:

    Quoted message said:

    Got caught out the other night. Dark at 1900hrs - 10 miles from home!
    Bugger. Very nervous cycle ride down back roads to home.

    OK, I need lights for my road bike.

    Looked at some nice powerful Halogen stuff, but with a battery life of
    10ns :-(

    As usual, I'm clueless.

    I am quite interested in the "Cateye LD260 Front & Rear Light Set",
    but am not sure that the front light will be bright enough or have the
    beam reach. What about the "Cateye Light Set HL-560 + TL-AU100" set?
    Only snag seams to be is that it is bulky.

    Any other suggestions? What do you use, or wish you'd bought?

    I visited my friendly LBS the other morning on a mission for light, I
    don't really care about beam reach as I cycle in a city centre, but I
    wanted to be sure of being seen now I'm coming home just as darkness
    falls.

    For 10.95 I got a set of LED lamps, red rear and green front, each pod
    takes 2 x AAA batteries and can be set to steady, flash, or knight-rider
    style sweep. There are 5 LEDs in each light.

    On Sunday night, driving some friends home from Black Sheep, I had a
    nice demonstration of how effective they are when I passed a cyclist
    with very similar equipment, in flash mode, on the A64 at about 11:30pm.

    I use them both on flash, IIRC that'll make the batteries last longer,
    and while I know you're not supposed to have flashing lamps the bloke I
    passed had them flashing, which instantly let me know he was a cyclist
    and not a moped or similar, so I was expecting him to be doing 10mph
    instead of the 40 allowed on that stretch, and was well out in the
    middle long before I reached him. They were also raving bright (as are
    mine).

    I also got a dinky little computer from the same LBS for 7.50, doesn't
    do cadence but for the first time in my life I have a speedo on a
    bicycle, was interesting riding to work today and actually knowing how
    fast I was going, and how far it was! The fastest I went was about 20,
    and the fastest I could pedal, in max top gear, was about 18 - guess
    I'll need to get a proper audax bike some time if I want to ride faster
    on the roads.

    When I have a bit more cash I'd like to add a dynamo set to the bike,
    which will give me a steady rear light as well as the flasher, at least
    when moving, and a nice bright beam at the front, probably mounted low
    on the forks to light the road.

    The battery life I was quoted by the LBS for the lights is 100 hours, I
    currently only need them at night and it takes half an hour to get home,
    so that'll do me for most of the Winter.

    A thought that came to me on the way home: Does anyone do a small
    generator powered system? While I'm happy to power the actual bike
    myself, I'd not be averse to some kind of minature petrol or diesel
    engine driver generator on the back somewhere, driving a nice big set of
    55W car halogen driving lamps at the front, and the kind of mega-bright
    LED rear lights the new double-decker busses use on the back. Would
    mean I could have air-horns too, for those "cyclists should be
    flattened" drivers I occasionally encounter... <evil gryn>

    NP: Inkubus Sukkubus - All Hallows Eve.
    --
    - Pyromancer Stormshadow.
    http://www.inkubus-sukkubus.co.uk <-- Pagan Gothic Rock!
    http://www.littlematchgirl.co.uk <-- Electronic Metal!
    http://www.revival.stormshadow.com <-- The Gothic Revival.

  8. Quoted message said:

    As usual, I'm clueless.

    Obviously.

    'Cos the other threads mentioned weren't too much help. Hansen - almost
    everything on this ng could be answered by a google search through past
    posts but who cares about lights from 5 years ago? Still, if you can
    find a light that is perfect for bombing down unlit roads and fulfills
    the OPs other criteria then I'll gladly stop calling you a whinging fart
    :-P

    AFAIK the lights you want don't exist unless your cycling is only on
    roads with streetlights - then LEDs are ok. I recommend two lights - one
    flashing to get you noticed and another constant to help the cagers gauge
    how far you are away (I've always found flashing lights hard to get a fix
    on when in the car).

    The really bright cateye one didn't get a particularly good review from a
    bloke that compared a few. He did recommend one light (google again) but
    not sure if it'll be powerful enough for cycling on unlit roads at speed.

    If you're on unlit country lanes then more money, more weight and less
    battery life is what you're doomed to. The lights with huge batteries
    aimed at offroaders are your best bet, or possibly the hub dynamos if you
    don't mind paying for 'em. Haven't used one but they're always
    recommended. Search google for recent posts with SON in.

  9. Ian said:

    I am quite interested in the "Cateye LD260 Front & Rear Light Set",
    but am not sure that the front light will be bright enough or have the
    beam reach. What about the "Cateye Light Set HL-560 + TL-AU100" set?
    Only snag seams to be is that it is bulky.

    I can only comment on the rear light of that lot: TL-AU100 -- that's
    definitely a good'un. I was riding behind one tonight. Nice and bold and
    bright, and takes AA batteries as opposed to AAA for better economy and
    run time.

    I've yet to get a front light that's good enough to see by at decent speed
    on unlit roads. I tend to stick to urban cycling in the winter months
    after dark, mainly to keep warm!

    But to be *seen* by (you could have one in addition to a more powerful
    system), Smart Polaris is very handy and slightly better than the Cateye
    EL200.

    ~PB

  10. On 27/9/04 8:47 pm, in article [email hidden],

    Ian said:

    Criteria.

    1. not too expensive
    2. effective brightness/beam reach
    3. reasonable battery life.
    4. quick fitting/removal.

    You can't have your cake and eat it. For 1,2 and 3 you have to pick 2 of the
    options.
    For rear lights, a couple of sets of LED lights are great.

    Taking them one at a time:
    1. You will be limited to either a heavy SLA set (up to about 50 quid
    depending on model) or doomed to low power disposable battery eaters with
    krypton bulbs. The third alternative is LED lights which are inexpensive,
    have long battery life, but are not up to the job for fast cycling on unlit
    roads.
    When you consider expense, also consider how long you will use the lights. A
    rechargeable SLA (Sealed lead acid) set will not have any additional expense
    over the initial purchase. LED lights are miserly in their battery use but
    krypton lights are battery eaters, so will rapidly eat up any potential
    saving in price.

    2. LED lights are good to be seen with but can only just provide enough
    light for cycling on dry roads at about 10mph, and even that is not very
    nice as the beam is a single spot.
    Krypton battery lights are better, but not much, and as the batteries run
    down, the light becomes negligible.
    SLA batteries will give you the best bang for buck in terms of light pattern
    and output. Typically 10W of light is enough to ride a 30mph downhill (on
    road). And in the fog the steam coming off the lamps is quite impressive.

    3. Reasonable depends on what you want. A set of the SMART lights has a run
    time at 2.4W of 8 hours, 1 hour at 10W and then needs an overnight (8 hour)
    charge. If your commute is under an hour and you have a source of power at
    work then you can charge during the day.
    For me (with a very short commute) this is about two weeks on a single
    charge.
    LED lights, fit and forget, just keep a spare set of batteries 'just in
    case'.
    Krypton lights, You'll get about 5 hours from a set of batteries, less if
    you are using AA instead of C or D cells. Rechargeable batteries help
    greatly here, you'll want several sets.

    4. Ease of fitting depends on whether you want the whole lamp removable or
    are prepared to have a bracket left on the bike. Most LED lamps are
    completely removable. Many SLA lamps are as well. For those that aren't,
    spare brackets can be bought for a nominal price for additional bikes.

    Hope this helps.

    ...d

  11. On 27 Sep 2004 23:31:37 GMT someone who may be Mark Thompson
    <[email hidden]> wrote this:-

    Quoted message said:

    'Cos the other threads mentioned weren't too much help.

    Really.

    The criteria were

    Quoted message said:

    1. not too expensive
    2. effective brightness/beam reach
    3. reasonable battery life.
    4. quick fitting/removal.

    and, with the possible exception of 4., are covered by recent
    threads.

    Quoted message said:

    Hansen

    Excellent, using a surname to refer to someone. Always a good sign.

    Quoted message said:

    - almost
    everything on this ng could be answered by a google search through past
    posts but who cares about lights from 5 years ago?

    Perhaps you should study the advanced groups search option on
    Google. It is perfectly possible to restrict the search to whatever
    time period one wants.

    Quoted message said:

    Still, if you can
    find a light that is perfect for bombing down unlit roads

    Not something that was mentioned.

    --
    David Hansen, Edinburgh | PGP email preferred-key number F566DA0E
    I will always explain revoked keys, unless the UK government
    prevents me by using the RIP Act 2000.

  12. Ian <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    Got caught out the other night. Dark at 1900hrs - 10 miles from home!
    Bugger. Very nervous cycle ride down back roads to home.

    Criteria.

    1. not too expensive
    2. effective brightness/beam reach
    3. reasonable battery life.
    4. quick fitting/removal.

    it's the same old problem light/strong/cheap pick any 2

    Take the plunge and buy some lumicycles I umm'd and aah'd before I
    could justify the cost to myself but they are probably the best value
    thing I've brought for my bike.

    At the time I really thought they were too expensive but after using
    them they more than paid for themselves I could see the road properly,
    cars dipped their headlights and the battery life is good.

    Al

  13. "David Hansen" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    On 27 Sep 2004 23:31:37 GMT someone who may be Mark Thompson
    <[email hidden]> wrote this:-

    Quoted message said:

    'Cos the other threads mentioned weren't too much help.

    Really.

    The criteria were

    Quoted message said:

    1. not too expensive
    2. effective brightness/beam reach
    3. reasonable battery life.
    4. quick fitting/removal.

    and, with the possible exception of 4., are covered by recent
    threads.

    Quoted message said:

    Hansen

    Excellent, using a surname to refer to someone. Always a good sign.

    Quoted message said:

    - almost
    everything on this ng could be answered by a google search through past
    posts but who cares about lights from 5 years ago?

    Perhaps you should study the advanced groups search option on
    Google. It is perfectly possible to restrict the search to whatever
    time period one wants.

    Quoted message said:

    Still, if you can
    find a light that is perfect for bombing down unlit roads

    Not something that was mentioned.

    Go back to bed, get out the other side.

  14. "Ian" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Got caught out the other night. Dark at 1900hrs - 10 miles from home!
    Bugger. Very nervous cycle ride down back roads to home.

    OK, I need lights for my road bike.

    Always keep a rear LED on your bike throughout the year. You never know when
    you'll get a puncture and that 'just in time' clock will be out the window.

  15. Mark Thompson said:

    If you're on unlit country lanes then more money, more weight and less
    battery life is what you're doomed to. The lights with huge batteries
    aimed at offroaders are your best bet, or possibly the hub dynamos if you
    don't mind paying for 'em. Haven't used one but they're always
    recommended.

    Exactly the kind of advice I was looking for, thank you.

  16. On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 11:43:47 GMT, "elyob" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Go back to bed, get out the other side.

    :-)

  17. On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 11:47:38 GMT, "elyob" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Always keep a rear LED on your bike throughout the year. You never know when
    you'll get a puncture and that 'just in time' clock will be out the window.

    Mmm. Good advice. I have kind of settled on a Cateye LED for the rear,
    due to the aparrent excellent visibility (to other traffic) and
    battery longevity.

    The Front light is still something I'm thinking about. It seems that
    LEDs are out, as it gets pitch black real quick around here. The roads
    have a lot of trees either side which even blocks out
    ambient/moonlight for long distances. Hitting a rut/drain/rabbit, etc
    in pich black on a wet road is not something I relish.

    It is becoming apparent that I need to spend a little more than I had
    bargained on, not something that comes easily to me as I'm a "Tight,
    fat, Scots, git" (c)E.G.Hogg

    Powerlight FIreballs were suggested, nice, but these are _well_ out of
    my price range.

    Looking at wiggle, amongst others, I'm quite interested in the Smart
    10w/2.4w Twin Rechargeable Headlight or the Vistalite NightStick Code
    5. I read elsewhere that the Iistalite is badly manufactured and
    unreliable. Can anyone confirm/contradict this?

  18. Sandy Morton [email hidden] opined the following...

    Quoted message said:

    You must be reading a different ng from the one that I am. The reply
    seemed to be perfectly OK here.

    Really? It seemed a little close to the bone to me as well.

    Have you calmed down yet David?

    Jon

  19. On 27 Sep 2004 23:31:37 GMT, Mark Thompson
    <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    <[email hidden]>:

    Quoted message said:

    If you're on unlit country lanes then more money, more weight and less
    battery life is what you're doomed to.

    Or a SON. Indefinite life, low weight, *ulp* money though :-)

    Guy
    --
    May contain traces of irony. Contents liable to settle after posting.
    http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk

    88% of helmet statistics are made up, 65% of them at Washington University

  20. David Martin said:

    1. You will be limited to either a heavy SLA set (up to about 50 quid
    depending on model) or doomed to low power disposable battery eaters with
    krypton bulbs.

    Some little battery lights have 2.4W *halogen* bulbs and are much better
    than the krypton ones, although not quite as good as a dynamo running a
    2.4W headlight. I'm not sure why, as the electrical power is the same
    on paper, but maybe the AC from a dynamo gives a brighter light - after
    all, the rated power is only the RMS value - and I suppose the dynamo
    gives slightly more than 6V at anything above its minimum design speed.
    Presumably bulb life is reduced pro rata.

    FWIW, I get about 2 hours out of a 2.4W halogen lamp using 4 x AA NiMH
    batteries. Halve that for NiCd. When the batteries die, they do so in
    a matter of minutes!

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