Lamps for SON Dynamo

Tony B said:

Has anyone tried the LED B&M lamps with a SON hub yet? I'm about to
take the plunge and get a dynohub and am considering these lamps; I
want to mount one on either fork leg on my Dawes a bit like this
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/dualsetupfork.htm however I'll use the
front carrier mounts to fix into rather than adding the "nobs".

Quoted message said:

From B&M's site it seems as though the DLumotec oval is supplied

without a switch but I'm sure that's not the case??? Anyone got
thoughts on using two of these LED lamps as a pair? I'm thinking
primary/secondary here but hey I'm no sparkie so all help appreciated.

bfn,

Tony B

PS ordered a Setavento custome ti frame today with track ends :-) can't
wait!!!

Quite a few of the audax riders here rate the solidlights 1203D, I
think that's the right model number. If I were buying a light now, I'd
get one. I currently have a B&M DIWA set which works very well.

Tony B said:

Has anyone tried the LED B&M lamps with a SON hub yet? I'm about to
take the plunge and get a dynohub and am considering these lamps; I
want to mount one on either fork leg on my Dawes a bit like this
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/dualsetupfork.htm however I'll use the
front carrier mounts to fix into rather than adding the "nobs".

Quoted message said:

From B&M's site it seems as though the DLumotec oval is supplied

without a switch but I'm sure that's not the case??? Anyone got
thoughts on using two of these LED lamps as a pair? I'm thinking
primary/secondary here but hey I'm no sparkie so all help appreciated.

bfn,

Tony B

PS ordered a Setavento custome ti frame today with track ends :-) can't
wait!!!

B&M dynamos are bottle ones so not always generating unlike SONs thus
they don't think their lamps need switches. Kinetics list four versions
of this light but non say they have switches ! Give Kinetics a call,
they are really helpful.

For primary & secondary the switches are different, the primary has a
simple on/off switch to close/open the circuit so the switch is in
series withthe light source. The secondary uses the switch to short it
out (switch it off) so is in parallel to the light source. Thus the same
switched lamp can not be used as the primary and secondary without
modification. of course you could make your own switch device or get a
friend (who is also not a spark, but whose Dad was) to help you. Did you
notice my primary and secondary lights ? I modified an old battery lamp
to be my secondary along with my Lumotec+ (switched) as primary

Whether or not these LED lights are suitable I have noidea, can't see
why not apart from the switch configurations as discussed.

Tony B said:

Has anyone tried the LED B&M lamps with a SON hub yet? I'm about to
take the plunge and get a dynohub and am considering these lamps; I
want to mount one on either fork leg on my Dawes a bit like this
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/dualsetupfork.htm however I'll use the
front carrier mounts to fix into rather than adding the "nobs".

A friend of mine has tried that mounting place and gave up. A mixture of
"light not illuminating road very well" and vibration from forks into the
lamps.

He's ended up with a slightly wierd, but works, arrangement with a "space
grip" dropping vertically from his drop bars to place the lamps above the
brakes but below the handlebars and rates this as much better for both road
illumination and vibration. He went this way as brake-boss mounting
options didn't work with his brakes.

He's using twin E6's (bulb lamps), the second one being the "SON special
secondary lamp" type.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

From B&M's site it seems as though the DLumotec oval is supplied

without a switch but I'm sure that's not the case??? Anyone got
thoughts on using two of these LED lamps as a pair? I'm thinking
primary/secondary here but hey I'm no sparkie so all help appreciated.

If going LED, I'd suggest the SolidLights alternative. It appears to be
designed for the job you're trying to achieve. Probably similar sum of
money at end of day once switches are taken into account, and the
Solidlights does things automatically.

One concern I'd have over twin B&M LEDs is the wattage. From the
instruction manual, the B&M LEDs appear to be 2.4W equivalent (the manual
says that they have overload protection in the event of the rear lamp
failing and that the rear should be corrected ASAP). If I'm right on the
power rating, you'd need to wire twin lamps with twin tail lamps (the second
tail lamp being in parallel with the second main lamp, and a bypass switch
taking out both of the secondary lamps).

- Nigel

--
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

Tony B said:

Quoted message said:

From B&M's site it seems as though the DLumotec oval is supplied

without a switch but I'm sure that's not the case??? Anyone got
thoughts on using two of these LED lamps as a pair? I'm thinking
primary/secondary here but hey I'm no sparkie so all help appreciated.

From what I've read the advantage of the LED B+M is more light at
low speeds, so more use as a primary than secondary.

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/schmidt-lumotec.asp implies you
can get the Oval Plus switched as a primary, but would have to rewire
if you wanted to use it as a secondary.

in message <[email hidden]>, Nigel Cliffe

(') said:

Tony B said:

Has anyone tried the LED B&M lamps with a SON hub yet? I'm about to
take the plunge and get a dynohub and am considering these lamps; I
want to mount one on either fork leg on my Dawes a bit like this
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/dualsetupfork.htm however I'll use the
front carrier mounts to fix into rather than adding the "nobs".

A friend of mine has tried that mounting place and gave up. A mixture
of "light not illuminating road very well" and vibration from forks
into the lamps.

My milage varies. I used dynamo lamps mounted low on the offside front
fork for all-year-round commuting on dark country lanes for years, and
found it very effective.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
;; If Python is executable pseudocode,
;; then Perl is executable line noise
-- seen on Slashdot.

Tony B said:

Has anyone tried the LED B&M lamps with a SON hub yet? I'm about to
take the plunge and get a dynohub and am considering these lamps; I
want to mount one on either fork leg on my Dawes a bit like this
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/dualsetupfork.htm however I'll use the
front carrier mounts to fix into rather than adding the "nobs".

Just remember, most other road users will see them (if both on) as a car
in the distance, one above the other is less confusing IMHO.

LSMike hatte geschrieben:

Quoted message said:

Tony B said:

Has anyone tried the LED B&M lamps with a SON hub yet?

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

From B&M's site it seems as though the DLumotec oval is supplied

without a switch but I'm sure that's not the case???

The lamps are made for volume costumers in various variants with and
without a switch. It might be best to contact a shop that sells
dynohubs also.

Quoted message said:

Quite a few of the audax riders here rate the solidlights 1203D, I
think that's the right model number.

As a very recent product on the small market for high power LEDs driven
by dynamos the Inoled might be worth a try:
<http://www.inoled.com/2_inolight01.shtml>
This lamp is designed for meeting the German regulations (though it
seems it did not pass the tests yet) which means that it can be
considered suitable for use on roads with oncoming traffic.
Andreas Oehler was rather dissappointed by the solidlight when testing
it for a German bike magazine:
<http://www.nabendynamo.de/pdf/ar.11-12_2005.pdf>
To much light near the front wheel and less in the distance than rather
cheap lamps like the HL-EL500G or the B&M products. It might be the
lamp of choice for off road use, though.
Best light in this test was Olaf's home made dual beam unit. Too bad
that up to present no one could convince him that starting his own bike
light company might make him a rich man.

Günther

Günther Schwarz said:

Best light in this test was Olaf's home made dual beam unit. Too bad
that up to present no one could convince him that starting his own bike
light company might make him a rich man.

Explain you have to start VERY rich 😉

--
---
Marten Gerritsen

INFOapestaartjeM-GINEERINGpuntNL
www.m-gineering.nl

M-gineering schreef:

Quoted message said:

Günther Schwarz said:

Best light in this test was Olaf's home made dual beam unit. Too bad
that up to present no one could convince him that starting his own
bike light company might make him a rich man.

Explain you have to start VERY rich 😉

Obviously that is what he expects from such a venture. Anyone else out
there who wants to copy the design and turn it into a commercial
product? You are likely to make it on the Forbes top hundred list and
finally take the world leadership from Larrington Towers.

Günther

badger said:

Tony B said:

Has anyone tried the LED B&M lamps with a SON hub yet? I'm about to
take the plunge and get a dynohub and am considering these lamps; I
want to mount one on either fork leg on my Dawes a bit like this
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/dualsetupfork.htm however I'll use the
front carrier mounts to fix into rather than adding the "nobs".

Just remember, most other road users will see them (if both on) as a car
in the distance, one above the other is less confusing IMHO.

My friend and I were out for an easy 100km today, got back at 18:00 so
the last 90 mins or so were in the dark. I had my Lumotec on she here
Lumotec Oval, both powered by SONs. We were riding on a very quiet,
narrow country road two a breast. A car approached and pulled to his
left to allow us to pass. I tucked in behind and once Mr Beemer saw were
were not as wide as he thought, he proceeded as before.

Günther Schwarz said:

To much light near the front wheel and less in the distance than rather
cheap lamps like the HL-EL500G or the B&M products. It might be the
lamp of choice for off road use, though.

Why not just point it a bit further away then???
It's not rocket science after all.

...d

David Martin said:

Günther Schwarz said:

To much light near the front wheel and less in the distance than
rather cheap lamps like the HL-EL500G or the B&M products. It might
be the lamp of choice for off road use, though.

Why not just point it a bit further away then???

The beam is not focused sufficiently and simply too much spread out at
that distance resulting in low intensity.

Quoted message said:

It's not rocket science after all.

Not, it's just optics :-)

Günther

In article <[email hidden]>, Tony

B () said:

Has anyone tried the LED B&M lamps with a SON hub yet? I'm about to
take the plunge and get a dynohub and am considering these lamps;

Not with a SON, but I have a DLumotec Topal Plus on the Trice (powered
by a Lightspin) with a second one on order. One I managed to get the
thing pointing where I wanted it, rather than where it thought it should
be, I was very pleased with its performance.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

From B&M's site it seems as though the DLumotec oval is supplied

without a switch but I'm sure that's not the case???

Mine doesn't have a switch, but I haven't looked to see whether the
other models do.

Quoted message said:

Anyone got
thoughts on using two of these LED lamps as a pair? I'm thinking
primary/secondary here but hey I'm no sparkie so all help appreciated.

I see no reason why not, but I'm not an expert either :-)

--
Dave Larrington - <http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/>
Oxymoron: spot cream for chavs.

Tony B said:

Has anyone tried the LED B&M lamps with a SON hub yet?

That's what I use, the Topal is switched (on/off/light sensor), works
great for commuting, the splash of light make gives plenty of side-ways
visibility (according to a shop-window check), and lights up dark roads
enough for a reasonable pace. It goes into strobe mode on the steepest
hills - good motivation to spin faster.

Quoted message said:

take the plunge and get a dynohub and am considering these lamps; I
want to mount one on either fork leg on my Dawes a bit like this
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/dualsetupfork.htm however I'll use the
front carrier mounts to fix into rather than adding the "nobs".

I'm thinking of a 2nd lamp, but I'd go for the Schmidt E6 supplimentry
one

On 16 Jan 2006 06:04:31 -0800, "sothach" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Tony B said:

Has anyone tried the LED B&M lamps with a SON hub yet?

That's what I use, the Topal is switched (on/off/light sensor), works

=snip=

Quoted message said:

I'm thinking of a 2nd lamp, but I'd go for the Schmidt E6 supplimentry
one

Good thinking. Last year I was running A B&M halogen and battery LED
light. Unfortunately both lights died so I have the B&M LED and a
Cateye battery LED lamp. The different colours provides very pleasing
if not optimum lighting.

Calles SJSC today, and after discussion with Ross I have decided to not
go LED, for one thing I'm not sure (neither it seems is anyone else)
that they will work OK without a rear to bring it all up to 3w. Also
apparently they are not quite up to the standard of the halogens (yet)
and may invovle a bit of home bodgery that I'd rather not get involved
with so I've plumped for a Schmidt E6/E6Z combination which I'm hoping
will be just the ticket, if a little on the expensive side.

Better make sure I get them 600's done this year then.... although I
dare say the whole lot will have decent resale value if I bottle it...

bfn,

Tony B

Tony B said:

Calles SJSC today, and after discussion with Ross I have decided to not
go LED, for one thing I'm not sure (neither it seems is anyone else)
that they will work OK without a rear to bring it all up to 3w. Also
apparently they are not quite up to the standard of the halogens (yet)
and may invovle a bit of home bodgery that I'd rather not get involved
with so I've plumped for a Schmidt E6/E6Z combination which I'm hoping
will be just the ticket, if a little on the expensive side.

Better make sure I get them 600's done this year then.... although I
dare say the whole lot will have decent resale value if I bottle it...

bfn,

Tony B

you'll need your lights for the 400s and maybe the 300s too.

"Günther Schwarz" <[email hidden]> wrote

Quoted message said:

The beam is not focused sufficiently and simply too much spread out at
that distance resulting in low intensity.

"sufficiently" is a matter of opinion.
I took off my E6 because it was too focussed, and I found myself slowing
right down for many corners because all the light was being beamed into the
hedge, leaving nothing for the road.

Andrew

MSeries said:

you'll need your lights for the 400s and maybe the 300s too.

Indeed - and for winter 200's as well!! Not to mention a certain French
1200 I have ideas about ;-)

bfn,

Tony B