The Fuji rim is probably "left hand" drilled rim. That is, hole off-set is
opposite the typical, and what you have in the Mavic. You have to feed the
spokes into the hub flanges differently to build the wheel properly. I
don't think I could explain it here, but I bet you can find the reference in
one of the bike wheel "bibles". . .
To see the difference, look down at the valve hole from the hub. Look at
the spoke hole immediately to the right of the valve hole. On the Mavic,
you'll probably see that this hole is closer to you (maybe by just a mm or
two) than the hole immediately to the left of the valve. This is refered to
as "right hand" drilling (or F2 in Holland Mechanics-speak). On the Fuji
rim, I bet the hole left of the valve is closer than that on the right, thus
refered to as "left hand" drilled (or F1). . .
Hope this helps. . .
"Zog The Undeniable" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:4228a4b5.0@entanet...
Quoted message said:I built a rear track wheel on a l/f hub last week and it's good in all
respects except that many spokes are obviously kinked where they exit
the nipple. Comparing it to the front wheel I built on Wednesday night
(well, the weather is bad at the moment...) I think the nipples haven't
been able to align themselves in the rim as well, but the most obvious
difference is that the front wheel is on a s/f 105 hub.
The track wheel (re)uses a Fuji-branded rim with no eyelets. The front
wheel uses a Mavic Open 4CD rim. Both sets of spokes are 2.0/1.8mm
double butted with brass nipples.
Should I always build l/f wheels 2x instead of 3x? Is it just a cheapo
rim? Is the kink in the spokes actually worth worrying about?