KH keyway slop fixed

You should have put some 'Loctite 660 Quick Metal retaining compound'
(http://tinyurl.com/4nyk6) on the axle while you had it out. The
Loctite will make the fix last longer. If you have problems with the
axle slipping again, do the Loctite fix.

As you discovered, it's an easy fix to do.

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john_childs said:

*You should have put some 'Loctite 660 Quick Metal retaining compound'
(http://tinyurl.com/4nyk6) on the axle while you had it out. The
Loctite will make the fix last longer. If you have problems with the
axle slipping again, do the Loctite fix.

As you discovered, it's an easy fix to do. *

We didn't have any loctite better then red (🙄 ) on hand.

His slop was pretty bad, so I came up with the idea of replacing the
axle in a new position so that the hub body in order to move some of the
gaps in the keyways around. Anything was better then how it was; he had
a ton of slop (prolly like a cm...he could also move his axle side to
side 3 inches).

I just hammered directly on the axle because I knew I wouldn't miss. It
came out easily enough. When I went to hammer it back in I started by
hammering a piece of wood but the wood quickly became a gigantic 8
spline crank so I hammered for a couple on the axle. It was going in
slower then it came out, which I took as a good sign. I gave it to Nick
and, of course, he hammered a couple spokes by accident. We finished up
and everything was rock solid and silent.

The loctite green would definately have been better, but this seems to
be holding up nicely. If it starts slipping again we can repeat with the
loctite.

Anyone can do this. It is very easy. Just be careful if you opt to hit
the axle directly. I only did it because I knew I wouldn't miss
(carpenter).

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The Loctite 660 Quick Metal retaining compound or green 620 retaining
compound will be better than the red Loctite threadlocker for this
application. The retaining compound is designed to fill larger gaps and
hold better than the threadlocker. The 660 stuff will be harder to
find. I went by one auto parts store today and they didn't have it. If
I looked around some more I'm sure I could find it. The 660 stuff will
fill slightly larger gaps than the 620. The 660 stuff is also thicker,
it's a paste rather than a liquid.

I also recommend using the Loctite primer to clean off the parts and to
accelerate the curing. The primer also helps to ensure a stronger bond.
The parts need to be really clean before applying the Loctite. That
means no grease, no oil, no film, and no dirt. If the parts are not
clean they will not bond as well as they should.

I don't recommend pounding directly on the axle with a metal mallet or
hammer. The axle is softer than the hammer and you can deform the end
of the axle by hitting it with a hammer. If you deform the end of the
axle too much you might not be able to slip the crank back on because
the splines will be mushed like the head of a mushroom.

It would be better to thread the axle bolt in snugly and pound on the
axle bolt instead of the bare axle. The axle bolt is harder, and if it
gets damaged it can be replaced. Be sure to anti-seize or grease the
threads of the axle bolt before threading it in. Pounding on it can be
a bit brutal to the threads and could damage the threads if they're not
anti-seized.

Here's how I pounded out my Profile axle: 'Dissected Profile Hub'
(http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Profile_hub). I threaded on the Profile
crank tool and pounded on the crank tool to remove the axle. That's
pretty much what the Profile crank tool is designed for. I also
anti-seized the threads on the crank tool before threading it on the
axle. The directions with the crank tool mention the requirement to
anti-seize the threads before pounding on it. Profile will not warranty
the axle if the threads are damaged because the crank tool was not
anti-seized.

This is actually a fairly easy repair for a hub with axle slop and
doesn't require too many special tools. Many people could do it
themselves. The alternative is to send the hub/wheel to Bedford or
Unicycle.com and have them fix it.

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I've been riding a KH 24 for a couple of month now and it has the same
problem. Thanks for the "loctite trick", my reseller will make it as
soon as he gets the Loctite.
But I'm I the only who thinks it's not normal, given the price of those
unis? My reseller bought 2 KH 24 and 1 KH 20 they all have the same
problem!!😠

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Zzagg said:

*But I'm I the only who thinks it's not normal, given the price of
those unis? My reseller bought 2 KH 24 and 1 KH 20 they all have the
same problem!!😠 *

It isn't right that the axle is slipping after only a short period of
use. That shouldn't happen. But it did. There was a batch of hubs
made where the quality control was not good and there is a lot of hubs
in that batch that have axle slop. That's one of the risks with
manufacturing in China or Taiwan. It's harder to control quality. If
the hubs and unicycles were made in Canada or the US it would be easier
to control quality and the manufacturing process, but the cost would be
much much more. The KH unicycles are less expensive because they're
made in Taiwan. Compare the cost of a Profile hub to the KH hub and you
get an idea of the kinds of cost differences. The Profile hub is made
in America. The KH hub is made in Taiwan.

The way these hubs are made means that there is always the possibility
that axle slop will develop after some use. The axle is just press fit
inside of an aluminum hub body. Press fits require very tight
tolerances (tolerances of just a few thousandths of an inch). If the
parts are manufactured just a little out of tolerance then you can get
axle slop. If the parts wear down during use just a little bit you can
end up with axle slop. My Profile hub developed some axle slop after a
couple of years of use. It's something that can happen to these hubs
given the way they're made. Press fits and keyways are not going to
hold forever.

To get better long term reliability we'll have to move on to some
different designs for the hubs. For now, the current designs are the
best we've got. We'll have to see how future designs compare.

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What if the flanges go on like cranks
http://gallery.unicyclist.com/KH_style_hub from http://tinyurl.com/68z8e

Tim said:

*What if the flanges go on like cranks
http://gallery.unicyclist.com/KH_style_hub from
http://tinyurl.com/68z8e .

Kris Holm just posted that's the way his kh/onza hub are going to be
just with more splines and with a whole outer hub body. At least thats
how I read it. *

Yes, that is one of the future designs that I had in mind when I said
we'll have to see how future designs compare. There are other ways to
improve the hubs too.

The problem is that you cannot weld steel to aluminum. So if you use a
steel axle and an aluminum hub body (or aluminum flanges) you have to
figure out some other way of fastening them together. The current way
of doing it with a tight press fit and keyways is not the most robust.
There is room for improvement.

I'm curious to see how the Koxx-One hub is put together.

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