Keep it simple stupid.....

Go to your local bike shop, get them to adjust the gearchange, it doesn't cost much...then just go with the feel...just keep changing up or down according to the prevailing conditions, and see how you go.

Aussie Steve said:

Go to your local bike shop, get them to adjust the gearchange, it doesn't cost much...then just go with the feel...just keep changing up or down according to the prevailing conditions, and see how you go.

like Steve says, just keep changing up when you are going down.. and changing down when you are going up... 😄

dauphin said:

Ok, it's called the KISS method. Keep it simple, stupid. I've searched the forums here and elsewhere for the most straightforward and simple explanation of when to shift the gears on a bike. Since I must be truly dense I neeed someone to "simply splain it to me". I am beyond being embarrassed to ask a stupid question. In my case, a Specialized Sirrus with the flat bars and the rapid fire Shimano shifters. 1,2,3 on the left and 1 through 8 on the right. I have lived in the middle chain ring (2) and tried to make do with the 8 choices on the right. Most of the time this works pretty well. The problems occur when I need the 1 or the 3 on the right. I understand that the 1 is for climbing steep hills and the 3 is for downhill. Let's say...I am going downhill 2 on the left and 8 on the right. Do I shift the left to 3 then or do I take the right down to a lower number and then shift the left to the 3? If I am going up hill with 2 on the left and 2 on the right, do I shift the left to 1 or do I first shift the right to a higher number....say 4 or 5? For some reason I keep throwing the chain off. Makes for some interesting clipped in falls. Someone please keep it simple for this simpleton.

I'd say move the front changer first, then go down up or down (depending on which way you've moved the front changer) a couple of gears at the rear to get your cadence (pedalling rate) back where you want it. With some practice, you should be able to do both pretty much simultaneously, but a lot will depend on the quality and setup of your gear system. It really shouldn't be unshipping the chain all the time.

[font=Verdana]I ride a 30 speed now, used to ride a 24, & both are flatbar rapid fire like yours.[/font]

[font=Verdana]I’ll try to expand on Eastways offering, as to explain how I try to keep on the boil.[/font]

[font=Verdana]The intentions of my gear changing is to maintain a relatively straight chain line & a good cadence. That said I do at times use all rear with MF but only the outside 4 i.e. 2 smallest, 2 largest for very short stints [50/100 metres] when I will not be looking to change the front, & my next changes will be more to the centre of the rear.[/font]

[font=Verdana]I’ll use my 30 speed for my simplicity.[Front 50/39/30 Rear 12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23,25] Eg:- I am accelerating in 39/16>15>14 instead of 13 I’ll go 50/ split second later [often simultaneously, I’ve read this is not recommended but mine works OK]15 or 16 >15>14>13>12 going down hill by now. Slowing down 50/12 often 2 at time [longer thumb push right hand lever]>>14>>16>[17occationally] instead of [17] 19 I’ll go 39/ split second later 2 right hand front clicks to 14 then thumb push >15>16>17>19>21>[23 maybe] I’m slowing on a climb which is long or steep, I’ll go 30/ split second later 2 or 3 gears up to 21 or 19>21>23>25 [bloody steep now] Remembering 39/25 = 30/19 [close][/font]

[font=Verdana]I think if you try to keep a better chainline this may lesson you’re dechaining?[/font]

[font=Verdana]I often read riders saying “I’ve got a triple but I never use the 30 ever” but they are willing to ride in middle front/ large back [cross chain] when they could use the same ratio on the 30 with a better chainline. They paid for it, why not use the “lot” & even out the wear, what is the point stuffing up the middle front ring, which in turn will help wear everything else faster when the inner & outer are barely touched. [/font]

[font=Verdana]Maybe this is not simple but it is “basically” how I ride [/font]
Edit:- BTW this description is seated, standing is another set of "rules" requiring changing up a couple of gears just prior to leaving the saddle because you generally use lower cadences when standing.

[font=Tahoma]Thanks for the answers! I experimented on the way to work this morning and on the way back just a bit ago. I found that if I am in the 3rd- 5th gears on the right I can easily shift the left from 2 to 1 if I know I have a good sized hill coming up. Conversely, the shifting from 2-3 was much easier when the right hand gears were in that same range if I knew I would be approacing some downhill areas. I think I might be getting the hang of this! It would be silly to have all those combinations of gears and never use them! [img]cyclingforums.comsmile.gifOpen ↗[/img][/font]

dauphin said:

[font=Tahoma]Thanks for the answers! I experimented on the way to work this morning and on the way back just a bit ago. I found that if I am in the 3rd- 5th gears on the right I can easily shift the left from 2 to 1 if I know I have a good sized hill coming up. Conversely, the shifting from 2-3 was much easier when the right hand gears were in that same range if I knew I would be approacing some downhill areas. I think I might be getting the hang of this! It would be silly to have all those combinations of gears and never use them! [img]cyclingforums.comsmile.gifOpen ↗[/img][/font]

Just another piece of advice: try to watch your chainline. It makes for more efficient pedaling (and easier shifting chainrings), when you have a good chainline. What does this mean? If you're sitting on the bike looking down at the chain, you don't want it at large angles. Say you are in your largest chainring (the biggest one on the front), and then you are also on your biggest cog in the back, then you have a large angle, meaning a bad chainline.