Just trued my first wheel

"Call me Bob" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

A couple of nights ago I managed to make a mess of the rear wheel on my new EBC Courier - a
pannier half detached and flung itself into the spokes, gah!

So, today I've been out to buy my first spoke key. Nobody local had any Spokeys in, so settled for
the Park triangular multi-size job.

The first ten minutes were a bit traumatic.:

"Oh gawd what have I done."

"Crikey, it's just getting worse!"

"Oh boll*cks to this!"

I almost gave up, nipped round to the shop and asked them to true it for me, I realised though
that I'd look a right clown. Buy a spoke key then come back an hour later with pringled wheel
having obviously failed miserably myself.

Once I forced myself to actually have a bit of patience whilst I played around it became quite
enjoyable, and I've got quite a good result too.

Laterally it's pretty near spot on, I can see it's out (very) slightly radially but I'm reluctant
to tackle that at the moment. Seems a bit tricky trying to manage with a bent spoke sellotaped to
the chainstay so might treat myself to a proper stand soon and have another bash.

Anyway, just giving myself a pat on the back in public, hope nobody minds :o)

Satisfying -- isn't it. Your right though. You do need to relax and just take it step at a
time. Make sure your stress relieve all the spokes well -- otherwise it will be back out of
true in no time.

T

Call me Bob said:

Laterally it's pretty near spot on, I can see it's out (very) slightly radially but I'm reluctant
to tackle that at the moment. Seems a bit tricky trying to manage with a bent spoke sellotaped to
the chainstay so might treat myself to a proper stand soon and have another bash.

It is good to have a truing stand but the bike frame can be ok for lateral truing. Easier than using
a spoke, I think, is to just use the brake blocks* - adjusting them nearer and nearer to the rim as
the wheel gets truer. When it's really close, deflect the rim by pushing and pulling to tell which
block the rim is hitting, then true away from it. The wheel can be trued to an incredibly fine
degree like this.

This does depend on the brakes being centered, so flip the wheel every so often to test the dish
(wheel's centering) (or get a dishing gauge). It doesn't matter if dish and radial true is a
little bit out. Radial truing is more tricky and requires the spokes to be turned more - and it
always messes up the lateral truing at least a bit, so it's best to leave the _fine_ lateral
truing until last.

* Listening for rubbing and watching for blocks slowing/jamming the slowly spun wheel.

~PB

Check out sheldonbrown.comwheelbuild.htmlOpen ↗

I built my own road wheels from 2 hubs, 2 rims, a load of spokes and nipples etc about 2 years ago
with absolutely no previous knowledge, using just this site. To build your own wheels from scratch
is amazing, and I've never had a truer pair of wheels.

NickM

"Call me Bob" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

A couple of nights ago I managed to make a mess of the rear wheel on my new EBC Courier - a
pannier half detached and flung itself into the spokes, gah!

So, today I've been out to buy my first spoke key. Nobody local had any Spokeys in, so settled for
the Park triangular multi-size job.

The first ten minutes were a bit traumatic.:

"Oh gawd what have I done."

"Crikey, it's just getting worse!"

"Oh boll*cks to this!"

I almost gave up, nipped round to the shop and asked them to true it for me, I realised though
that I'd look a right clown. Buy a spoke key then come back an hour later with pringled wheel
having obviously failed miserably myself.

Once I forced myself to actually have a bit of patience whilst I played around it became quite
enjoyable, and I've got quite a good result too.

Laterally it's pretty near spot on, I can see it's out (very) slightly radially but I'm reluctant
to tackle that at the moment. Seems a bit tricky trying to manage with a bent spoke sellotaped to
the chainstay so might treat myself to a proper stand soon and have another bash.

Anyway, just giving myself a pat on the back in public, hope nobody minds :o)

Bob
--
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Quoted message said:

Seems a bit tricky trying to manage with a bent spoke sellotaped to the chainstay so might treat
myself to a proper stand soon and have another bash.

I'll see if I can get hold of a digital camera to upload a pic of my real cheapo combined truing and
dishing 'thingie', that may interest you. Made from wood, it works real well - using the bike as the
wheel stand of course...but NOT the brake pads as a guide - never got on with using the pads . It's
just a piece of hardwood <a bit of old picture frame> that attachs to the frame with an adjustable
bolt as the 'guide' . Hell it works...works well too.

Don't call me 'Bob the bodger' for nowt !

It's useful to understand a bit about wheel building and truing. And good to feel good when you
do too :-)

bob

There is a trick to dealing with radial truing. Don't introduce the error in the first place.

If you're careful to adjust all the nipple the exact same amount before you start truing, and avoid
turning any one of them too much, but spread your corrections, I've found that you will NOT need to
do any radial truing.

Gearóid Ó Laoi said:

There is a trick to dealing with radial truing. Don't introduce the error in the first place.

If you're careful to adjust all the nipple the exact same amount before you start truing, and
avoid turning any one of them too much, but spread your corrections, I've found that you will NOT
need to do any radial truing.

That's sometimes extremely difficult or impossible.

What rims do you use, and what radial error do you find acceptable (after all, they're
never perfect)?

~PB

"Pete Biggs" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Gearóid Ó Laoi said:

There is a trick to dealing with radial truing. Don't introduce the error in the first place.

If you're careful to adjust all the nipple the exact same amount before you start truing, and
avoid turning any one of them too much, but spread your corrections, I've found that you will
NOT need to do any radial truing.

That's sometimes extremely difficult or impossible.

What rims do you use, and what radial error do you find acceptable (after all, they're never
perfect)?

I think it depend a lot on the rims you're using, mtb rims are stiffer and therefore less easy to
get out of radial true in the first place - I've done 3 wheels now and only had to do radial truing
once - anything less then 1mm radially and I'm happy YMMV

Russ

Call me Bob <[email hidden]> wrote

Quoted message said:

I think the stress relieving is where I'm most unsure. Just how much pressure do I apply? Bit
cautious of being too heavy handed yet want to do the job properly. It's a bit tricky to be
objective when just *reading* about the process. Ho hum, I'll get there.

This was the worst problem I had when learning to build wheels. Not really about how much force to
apply when stress relieving, but how tight to make the spokes. Initially I made them fairly loose,
but then with successive wheels I got more daring and made them tighter. Then came the day that I
tacoed a Mavic MA2 rim due to excessively tight spokes. I tell you, it's a sinking feeling when in
the middle of doing stress relieving your rims suddlenly gives up and bends itself into a pretzel
shape... The thing was, that the wheel had been exhibiting strange symptoms before the tacoing, but
I didn't realize what they were and proceeded blindly on. Now I know the symptoms and will take
remedial action (i.e. back off the tension on the spokes!).

What I've come to realize is that as long as the spokes aren't too tight, you don't need to worry
about how much pressure you apply when stress relieving. If your spokes are too tight, then even the
smallest pressure will taco the wheel. The warning signs are that that the wheel goes into mini-taco
shapes as you true it up and tighten it up. So if you've tightened a spoke or two and suddenly find
the rim's developed small but distinct wavey bits, your spokes are too tight, so loosen them up. If
this doesn't happen, you can stress relieve to your heart's content.

-Myra

Call me Bob <[email hidden]> wrote

Quoted message said:

I think the stress relieving is where I'm most unsure. Just how much pressure do I apply? Bit
cautious of being too heavy handed yet want to do the job properly. It's a bit tricky to be
objective when just *reading* about the process. Ho hum, I'll get there.

This was the worst problem I had when learning to build wheels. Not really about how much force to
apply when stress relieving, but how tight to make the spokes. Initially I made them fairly loose,
but then with successive wheels I got more daring and made them tighter. Then came the day that I
tacoed a Mavic MA2 rim due to excessively tight spokes. I tell you, it's a sinking feeling when in
the middle of doing stress relieving your rims suddlenly gives up and bends itself into a pretzel
shape... The thing was, that the wheel had been exhibiting strange symptoms before the tacoing, but
I didn't realize what they were and proceeded blindly on. Now I know the symptoms and will take
remedial action (i.e. back off the tension on the spokes!).

What I've come to realize is that as long as the spokes aren't too tight, you don't need to worry
about how much pressure you apply when stress relieving. If your spokes are too tight, then even the
smallest pressure will taco the wheel. The warning signs are that that the wheel goes into mini-taco
shapes as you true it up and tighten it up. So if you've tightened a spoke or two and suddenly find
the rim's developed small but distinct wavey bits, your spokes are too tight, so loosen them up. If
this doesn't happen, you can stress relieve to your heart's content.

-Myra

Pete Biggs said:

It is good to have a truing stand but the bike frame can be ok for lateral truing. Easier than
using a spoke, I think, is to just use the brake blocks* This does depend on the brakes being
centered,

Yes, I did consider this, had I been working on my road bike I'd certainly have used the brakes.
I've been having trouble with the relatively cheapo V brakes on this bike though and keeping them
centered is proving quite a challenge. They're all over the shop so I didn't want to use them in
this case.

Bob
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Pete Biggs said:

It is good to have a truing stand but the bike frame can be ok for lateral truing. Easier than
using a spoke, I think, is to just use the brake blocks* This does depend on the brakes being
centered,

Yes, I did consider this, had I been working on my road bike I'd certainly have used the brakes.
I've been having trouble with the relatively cheapo V brakes on this bike though and keeping them
centered is proving quite a challenge. They're all over the shop so I didn't want to use them in
this case.

Bob
--
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Bob Flemming said:

I'll see if I can get hold of a digital camera to upload a pic of my real cheapo combined truing
and dishing 'thingie', that may interest you. Made from wood, it works real well - using the bike
as the wheel stand of course...but NOT the brake pads as a guide - never got on with using the pads
. It's just a piece of hardwood <a bit of old picture frame> that attachs to the frame with an
adjustable bolt as the 'guide' . Hell it works...works well too.

Oooh, yes, I would be interested in seeing that. I like a bit of bodging myself and might quite
enjoy knocking up a stand.

Bob
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Nick Murphy said:

I built my own road wheels from 2 hubs, 2 rims, a load of spokes and nipples etc about 2 years ago
with absolutely no previous knowledge, using just this site. To build your own wheels from scratch
is amazing, and I've never had a truer pair of wheels.

Yep, this is definitely on my list now. I quite fancy booking myself on one of those wheelbuilding
day course thingies. Have to see if there is one anywhere near me (which is Derby, so shout up if
anyone knows of any).

Bob
--
Mail address is spam trapped To reply by email remove the beverage

Bob Flemming said:

I'll see if I can get hold of a digital camera to upload a pic of my real cheapo combined truing
and dishing 'thingie', that may interest you. Made from wood, it works real well - using the bike
as the wheel stand of course...but NOT the brake pads as a guide - never got on with using the pads
. It's just a piece of hardwood <a bit of old picture frame> that attachs to the frame with an
adjustable bolt as the 'guide' . Hell it works...works well too.

Oooh, yes, I would be interested in seeing that. I like a bit of bodging myself and might quite
enjoy knocking up a stand.

Bob
--
Mail address is spam trapped To reply by email remove the beverage

Nick Murphy said:

I built my own road wheels from 2 hubs, 2 rims, a load of spokes and nipples etc about 2 years ago
with absolutely no previous knowledge, using just this site. To build your own wheels from scratch
is amazing, and I've never had a truer pair of wheels.

Yep, this is definitely on my list now. I quite fancy booking myself on one of those wheelbuilding
day course thingies. Have to see if there is one anywhere near me (which is Derby, so shout up if
anyone knows of any).

Bob
--
Mail address is spam trapped To reply by email remove the beverage

Tony W said:

Make sure your stress relieve all the spokes well -- otherwise it will be back out of true
in no time.

Ahem, indeed.

I took it out for an hour after I'd done the job and wasn't quite so smug after getting back
home again :o)

A couple of spokes had unwound and were very slack so it had come quite a way out of true. Time to
break out the spoke key again.

This time I was more thorough - I oiled each nipple and left it for a while to penetrate, then, was
careful to overwind and release back a little when making adjustments. I then stress relieved the
whole wheel using the spanner type method Sheldon advocates. Fingers crossed it will be more durable
this time, although I don't actually mind if I have to have another go, I'm enjoying learning.

I think the stress relieving is where I'm most unsure. Just how much pressure do I apply? Bit
cautious of being too heavy handed yet want to do the job properly. It's a bit tricky to be
objective when just *reading* about the process. Ho hum, I'll get there.

Bob
--
Mail address is spam trapped To reply by email remove the beverage

Tony W said:

Make sure your stress relieve all the spokes well -- otherwise it will be back out of true
in no time.

Ahem, indeed.

I took it out for an hour after I'd done the job and wasn't quite so smug after getting back
home again :o)

A couple of spokes had unwound and were very slack so it had come quite a way out of true. Time to
break out the spoke key again.

This time I was more thorough - I oiled each nipple and left it for a while to penetrate, then, was
careful to overwind and release back a little when making adjustments. I then stress relieved the
whole wheel using the spanner type method Sheldon advocates. Fingers crossed it will be more durable
this time, although I don't actually mind if I have to have another go, I'm enjoying learning.

I think the stress relieving is where I'm most unsure. Just how much pressure do I apply? Bit
cautious of being too heavy handed yet want to do the job properly. It's a bit tricky to be
objective when just *reading* about the process. Ho hum, I'll get there.

Bob
--
Mail address is spam trapped To reply by email remove the beverage

Pete Biggs said:

Easier than using a spoke, I think, is to just use the brake blocks*

I found a useful tip at BikeMagic which made my second attempt at the wheel a bit easier.

bikemagic.comwheel biro.jpgOpen ↗

Uses a pen and rubber band, I found it much easier to adjust than the spoke.

Bob
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Pete Biggs said:

Easier than using a spoke, I think, is to just use the brake blocks*

I found a useful tip at BikeMagic which made my second attempt at the wheel a bit easier.

bikemagic.comwheel biro.jpgOpen ↗

Uses a pen and rubber band, I found it much easier to adjust than the spoke.

Bob
--
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