Is my quick release skewer too long?

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by Gooserider
I just purchased a bike online, and received it today. The
assembly process went pretty smoothly, and I broke out my
Bicycling repair guide to help me tune the derailleurs and
brakes. Everything's running fine, but the front QR skewer
sticks out approximately 4mm on the drive side. What am I
doing wrong? I've removed it and replaced it several times,
but always end up with the same result. Thanks!

Mike

Skewers can be too long. Why? The OLD (Over Locknut Dimension) is the same on the front and is either 130 (road) or 135 (mountain) for single bikes. The difference is the thickness of the dropouts. Many forks and frames made of aluminum are much thicker than steel.

That bit sticking out can be a hazard so its best to mark it and trim the excess off. Put the nut on BEFORE you cut, screwing the nut all the way down and carefully trim off the excess. File burrs and chamfer. You should be able to take the nut off and put it back on with no troubles.

Quoted message said:

I just purchased a bike online, and received it today. The
assembly

process

Quoted message said:

went pretty smoothly, and I broke out my Bicycling repair
guide to help me tune the derailleurs and brakes.
Everything's running fine, but the front

QR

Quoted message said:

skewer sticks out approximately 4mm on the drive side.
What am I doing wrong? I've removed it and replaced it
several times, but always end up

with

Quoted message said:

the same result. Thanks!

Are you talking about the threaded part of the rod that goes
from one side of the wheel to the other? If that's sticking
out past the adjusting nut (on the opposite side of the
lever that you tighten the wheel in place with), that's not
a big deal, and not an indication of a problem with how you
installed it.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

Quoted message said:

Skewers can be too long. Why? The OLD (Over Locknut
Dimension) is the same on the front and is either 130
(road) or 135 (mountain) for

That's for the rear. 100mm for the front, but you probably
knew that.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

Quoted message said:

That bit sticking out can be a hazard so its best to mark
it and trim the excess off. Put the nut on BEFORE you cut,
screwing the nut all the way down and carefully trim off
the excess. File burrs and chamfer. You should be able to
take the nut off and put it back on with no troubles.

If the quick release nut has aluminum threads, I wouldn't do
that. I'd find a suitable steel nut to thread down first,
cut the quick release rod, and then unthread the nut (which
will clean up the threads on its way off).

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

"Mike Jacoubowsky" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Are you talking about the threaded part of the rod that
goes from one

side

Quoted message said:

of the wheel to the other? If that's sticking out past
the adjusting nut (on the opposite side of the lever that
you tighten the wheel in place with), that's not a big
deal, and not an indication of a problem with how you
installed it.

Yes, it's sticking out past the adjusting nut. Should I
break out the Dremel and cut it off?

Mike

if you cut it off then sand or grind or file a nice flat end
on it then hit it with a wire wheel or remove the burr you
don't need the nut. I used to round the edge but the flat
grind works far better. I do this hundreds of times a year
and it works really well.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes
at reasonable prices See knight-toolworks.comknight-toolworks.comOpen ↗ For
prices and ordering instructions.

Gooserider said:

I just purchased a bike online, and received it today. The
assembly process went pretty smoothly, and I broke out my
Bicycling repair guide to help me tune the derailleurs and
brakes. Everything's running fine, but the front QR skewer
sticks out approximately 4mm on the drive side. What am I
doing wrong? I've removed it and replaced it several times,
but always end up with the same result. Thanks!

That's what happens when a bike maker uses "one size fits
all" skewers instead of buying the ones that are
correctly sized for the application. This is a common
shortcoming in mass-market bikes sold online. Trim the
skewer to prevent injury; others have posted good
instructions on how to do it.

Just out of curiosity, was it a Motobecane?

Steve Knight said:

if you cut it off then sand or grind or file a nice flat
end on it then hit it with a wire wheel or remove the burr
you don't need the nut. I used to round the edge but the
flat grind works far better. I do this hundreds of times a
year and it works really well.

ITYM that the skewer can be cut without needing to leave the
nut on it as a final clean-up tool. The nut is, obviously,
still needed for the skewer to work.

Personally, though, while I mostly agree with your
assessment (as I conclude it was meant), I still leave the
nut on when shortening something threaded, if at all
possible. When I think I'm done, if the nut binds coming
off, I find out that I missed something *before* it becomes
a problem.

"Werehatrack" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Fri, 18 Jun 2004 02:55:52 GMT, "Gooserider" <gooserider@mouse-

potato.com said:

I just purchased a bike online, and received it today.
The assembly

process

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

went pretty smoothly, and I broke out my Bicycling repair
guide to help

me

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

tune the derailleurs and brakes. Everything's running
fine, but the front

QR

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

skewer sticks out approximately 4mm on the drive side.
What am I doing wrong? I've removed it and replaced it
several times, but always end up

with

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

the same result. Thanks!

That's what happens when a bike maker uses "one size fits
all" skewers instead of buying the ones that are
correctly sized for the application. This is a common
shortcoming in mass-market bikes sold online. Trim the
skewer to prevent injury; others have posted good
instructions on how to do it.

Just out of curiosity, was it a Motobecane?

Nope, it's an Ibex. Bought a "flat bar road bike" to use as
a commuter/town bike/beater. The price was right---$299 for
a bike with rack and fender eyelets. I have two other bikes,
a Trek and a Schwinn, but this bike is going to be locked to
a rack a lot, and don't want to spend big bucks for
something that could be stolen or vandalized. I believe in
supporting my LBS but sometimes there are other options. :-)

Mike

Quoted message said:

Personally, though, while I mostly agree with your
assessment (as I conclude it was meant), I still leave the
nut on when shortening something threaded, if at all
possible. When I think I'm done, if the nut binds coming
off, I find out that I missed something *before* it becomes
a problem.

but if the nut is softer you may chew it up when doing it.
then life is even more of a pain (G)

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes
at reasonable prices See knight-toolworks.comknight-toolworks.comOpen ↗ For
prices and ordering instructions.