Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Installing Shimano 7610 Track BB

Started by mickster · · Last activity · 4 posts · 545 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
17 November 2005
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18 November 2005
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mickster
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  1. I'm about to install a new Shimano 7610 Track bottom bracket - this is
    the BB for the older generation square taper D-Ace track cranks. The BB
    is English sized going into an English BB shell.
    Having installed the drive side cup and BB unit and torqued it to 50Nm,
    I'm having a problem with the left side cup - it screws in ok most of
    the way but then stops approx 1-2mm short of its full insertion, ie
    when tightened there's a 1-2mm gap between the left edge of the BB
    shell and the l-hand cup. It's not a question of further tightening
    because the axle starts to bind if tightened any further.
    The left hand cup does come with a rubber o-ring which suggests that
    this gap might be intentional and needs to be covered with the o-ring,
    but this seems like a strange design if that's the case. Removing the
    BB and comparing its overall width to the BB shell, it does seem that
    the BB-plus-cups is 1-2mm wider than the BB shell.
    The BB is definitely English (cups are English threaded and BB body has
    NJS logo).

    Is this normal for this BB or am I missing something? If it is normal,
    how hard do I need to torque the l-hand cup to ensure it's a tight
    enough fit?

    Many thanks,

    Mickster

  2. mickster said:

    I'm about to install a new Shimano 7610 Track bottom bracket - this is
    the BB for the older generation square taper D-Ace track cranks. The BB
    is English sized going into an English BB shell.
    Having installed the drive side cup and BB unit and torqued it to 50Nm,
    I'm having a problem with the left side cup - it screws in ok most of
    the way but then stops approx 1-2mm short of its full insertion, ie
    when tightened there's a 1-2mm gap between the left edge of the BB
    shell and the l-hand cup. It's not a question of further tightening
    because the axle starts to bind if tightened any further.
    The left hand cup does come with a rubber o-ring which suggests that
    this gap might be intentional and needs to be covered with the o-ring,
    but this seems like a strange design if that's the case. Removing the
    BB and comparing its overall width to the BB shell, it does seem that
    the BB-plus-cups is 1-2mm wider than the BB shell.
    The BB is definitely English (cups are English threaded and BB body has
    NJS logo).

    Is this normal for this BB or am I missing something? If it is normal,
    how hard do I need to torque the l-hand cup to ensure it's a tight
    enough fit?

    The gap between the flange on the left adapter cup and the face of
    your bottom bracket shell is entirely normal for this bottom bracket
    model. Its design accommodates the common window of variations in
    shell widths from the nominal 68 mm. As you intuit, the supplied
    O-ring will help protect the exposed face of the shell since the left
    cup flange doesn't make contact with it.

    Shimano literature indicates a torque range of 50 to 70 Nm for
    installing these cartridge style crankbearing units.

    -------------------------------
    John Dacey
    Business Cycles, Miami, Florida
    Since 1983
    Comprehensive catalogue of track equipment: online since 1996
    http://www.businesscycles.com
    -------------------------------

  3. mickster said:

    I'm about to install a new Shimano 7610 Track bottom bracket - this is
    the BB for the older generation square taper D-Ace track cranks. The BB
    is English sized going into an English BB shell.
    Having installed the drive side cup and BB unit and torqued it to 50Nm,
    I'm having a problem with the left side cup - it screws in ok most of
    the way but then stops approx 1-2mm short of its full insertion, ie
    when tightened there's a 1-2mm gap between the left edge of the BB
    shell and the l-hand cup. It's not a question of further tightening
    because the axle starts to bind if tightened any further.

    Tightening the cup should not cause the BB to bind. It is like most all
    other cart bearing shimano BBs, but with steel cups. I would chase the
    frame BB shell threads and face the right side of the BB shell. It
    should not bind regardless of how tight the cups are.

    Quoted message said:

    The left hand cup does come with a rubber o-ring which suggests that
    this gap might be intentional and needs to be covered with the o-ring,
    but this seems like a strange design if that's the case. Removing the
    BB and comparing its overall width to the BB shell, it does seem that
    the BB-plus-cups is 1-2mm wider than the BB shell.
    The BB is definitely English (cups are English threaded and BB body has
    NJS logo).

    Is this normal for this BB or am I missing something? If it is normal,
    how hard do I need to torque the l-hand cup to ensure it's a tight
    enough fit?

    Many thanks,

    Mickster

  4. That's interesting - the axle starts to bind well before the tightening
    torque on the l-hand cup approaches 50Nm - more like when its at
    20-30Nm. The threads do seem reasonably good when threading either side
    cup on its own, and the cup flanges look parallel to the BB shell, at
    least to the naked eye, but I presume we're talking pretty very
    tolerances here...

    I'll find a suitable LBS / frame builder and ask them to chase & face
    the BB shell.

    Cheers for your help.

    Mickster

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