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Installing Magura, hints and tips.

Started by Martin · · Last activity · 6 posts · 849 views

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UK and Europe
Published
21 May 2008
Last activity
22 May 2008
Original author
Martin
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6
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  1. First of all make a nice cup of tea (or your poison of choice), and sit
    down and read the instructions. Then re-read the instructions.

    Then realise that although the text says left side, the view is from the
    front of the forks, so appears to be the right.

    Next get the list of tools the instructions say you need.
    3 Allen keys, an 8mm spanner, and a sharp knife.

    Then get the additional tools the instructions don't mention.
    An extra pair of hands.
    A roll of sticky tape.
    A wall with a large X on so you know where to bash your head.
    Some cardboard folded.
    A wicket keeper standing by to catch that bit that goes ping.

    Fix the brake handle to the handle bar, using a spare handy bolt, as no
    bolt for this was supplied.

    Loosely assemble the brakes as instructed.
    Use the card folded between one brake block and the rim as a spacer
    whilst you push the piston assembly onto the rim, and holding the clamp
    bit in place with your other hand. Using your third hand, tighten up the
    bolts.
    Repeat for the other side.
    Repeat for the first side as the block is misaligned.
    Repeat for the other side.
    (There may be more than one repetition here).

    Hit head against wall.
    Go make cup of tea (or your favourite poison).

    Next decide to shorten the hydraulic tube, this is the bit which
    requires four hands, and the sticky tape to hold the tubes whilst you
    search for the compression nut that attaches the tube to the brakes.
    (The nut goes ping, flies all the way across the garage just as you
    finish cutting through the hydraulic tube).

    In our next instalment, we shall discuss cycling around Bristol with
    only one gear (top), due to not having all the parts to replace the gear
    cable.

  2. "Martin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Loosely assemble the brakes as instructed.
    Use the card folded between one brake block and the rim as a spacer whilst
    you push the piston assembly onto the rim, and holding the clamp bit in
    place with your other hand. Using your third hand, tighten up the bolts.
    Repeat for the other side.
    Repeat for the first side as the block is misaligned.
    Repeat for the other side.
    (There may be more than one repetition here).

    Hey, they've got better than they used to be. Actually I didn't have much
    trouble with mine. Don't bother with card, position wrt rim can be sorted
    out later. Do clamp bolt up a bit, wiggle cylinder into appropriate place,
    tighten. To get cylinders a little further from the rim, loosen slightly,
    apply brake and the thing will move out, nice and easy.

    Of course my blocks might not be entirely true - but it doesn't matter!

    Quoted message said:

    Next decide to shorten the hydraulic tube, this is the bit which requires
    four hands, and the sticky tape to hold the tubes whilst you search for
    the compression nut that attaches the tube to the brakes.
    (The nut goes ping, flies all the way across the garage just as you finish
    cutting through the hydraulic tube).

    Ah well, I've never opened mine. Friend has an entire loop free coz he's not
    shortened his either :-)

    cheers,
    clive

  3. Clive George said:

    Ah well, I've never opened mine. Friend has an entire loop free coz he's not
    shortened his either :-)

    I think I did mine...but it was _so_ long ago, I can't remember.

    I've done a lot of miles since then (ok, not really all that many
    miles, but I've changed many sets of brake blocks in the meantime, and
    would have had to change several sets of cables too).

    Maintenance? What's that?

  4. Clive George said:

    "Martin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Loosely assemble the brakes as instructed.
    Use the card folded between one brake block and the rim as a spacer
    whilst you push the piston assembly onto the rim, and holding the
    clamp bit in place with your other hand. Using your third hand,
    tighten up the bolts. Repeat for the other side.
    Repeat for the first side as the block is misaligned.
    Repeat for the other side.
    (There may be more than one repetition here).

    Hey, they've got better than they used to be. Actually I didn't have
    much trouble with mine. Don't bother with card, position wrt rim can
    be sorted out later. Do clamp bolt up a bit, wiggle cylinder into
    appropriate place, tighten. To get cylinders a little further from
    the rim, loosen slightly, apply brake and the thing will move out,
    nice and easy.

    Of course my blocks might not be entirely true - but it doesn't
    matter!

    Quoted message said:

    Next decide to shorten the hydraulic tube, this is the bit which
    requires four hands, and the sticky tape to hold the tubes whilst
    you search for the compression nut that attaches the tube to the
    brakes. (The nut goes ping, flies all the way across the garage just
    as you finish cutting through the hydraulic tube).

    Ah well, I've never opened mine. Friend has an entire loop free coz
    he's not shortened his either :-)

    Aye. Just cable tie the whole lot intact to your bike.

  5. Doki said:
    Quoted message said:


    Ah well, I've never opened mine. Friend has an entire loop free coz
    he's not shortened his either :-)

    Aye. Just cable tie the whole lot intact to your bike.

    If shortening a Magura hose is beyond your skills (which next to
    changing the blocks is about the easiest job with Magura's), maybe you
    shouldn't work on the brakesystem at all
    --
    /Marten

    info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl

  6. In news:[email hidden],
    Martin <[email hidden]> tweaked the Babbage-Engine to tell us:

    [Magura Stuffs]

    You missed a bit.

    o Realise after three hours of swearing that the current model requires your
    canti posts to be 75 mm apart. As you are attempting to fit them to an
    elderly road machine, the canti posts of which are but 60 mm apart, they
    will not fit. Further realise that you've just spent quite a lot of money
    on something almost, but not quite, entirely useless (it can still be used
    as a paperweight, or for propping the door open).

    Bah!

    --
    Dave Larrington
    <http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk>
    Drugs are good, except when they kill you.

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