I ride only a cruiser now,

I commuted on a coaster brake cruiser during the summer of '05-pretty reliable except for when you hit the brakes a bit hard, which seems to move the axle and cause chain derailments. Keep at it and you'll climb hills fine. You can get 22T three spline sprockets but I was surprised at the relative lack of cranksets or chainrings for ashtabula cranks.

garage sale GT said:

I commuted on a coaster brake cruiser during the summer of '05-pretty reliable except for when you hit the brakes a bit hard, which seems to move the axle and cause chain derailments. Keep at it and you'll climb hills fine. You can get 22T three spline sprockets but I was surprised at the relative lack of cranksets or chainrings for ashtabula cranks.

This two-wheeler is a single speed, though I wish it was a 3 or 5. It's peculiar construction makes it impossible to switch over to a wider range gearing due to rigid frame. The Shimano gear hubs are just too wide to install, so I will have to use the motor when the hills push me back. (I used to take my beauty Bianchi road bike all the time, but the climb got to be too much for my knees and a pain on 90 degree summer days.) Then again, once, when way out and it looked like rain (cannot see the weather roll in because of the high bluffs in some areas), the wee motor made it easy for me to speed up and beat the wet.

I was referring to the fact that you can take a singlespeed coaster brake hub, remove a c-clip, and pull off the sprocket. You can easily pop on a new one. also, if you remove the one-piece crank, you can change the front sprocket by pulling off the RH cone.

garage sale GT said:

I was referring to the fact that you can take a singlespeed coaster brake hub, remove a c-clip, and pull off the sprocket. You can easily pop on a new one. also, if you remove the one-piece crank, you can change the front sprocket by pulling off the RH cone.

Cool! I get it now. Duh! on me. Thanks! Will look into that. May have to change chain-guard height, but seems easy enough.

I learned much about frames since buying the CNC. After decades of noting few differences and assuming frames were more or less the same, the TREK got my attention. Now, I have to pre plan each change. Even installing a front brake (roller only) requires some careful thinking.

Appreciate your gracious advice. When the snow meltss and it warms up a bit, will get the bike out and play with it and let you know how it turns out.

garage sale GT said:

I was referring to the fact that you can take a singlespeed coaster brake hub, remove a c-clip, and pull off the sprocket. You can easily pop on a new one. also, if you remove the one-piece crank, you can change the front sprocket by pulling off the RH cone.

HMmmm ...

Okay, not for me to say how hard-or-easy it is, but you may find the c-clip a bit difficult to pry off the first time you try it ...

I would use a "scout"-type/camping knife (or, something that sturdy-and-stout a blade) and VERY slowly start to pry one end of the clip away from the hub ... after you have got one end clear of the flange, put something (anything) over the end of the hub and release the rest of the clip.

alfeng said:

HMmmm ...

Okay, not for me to say how hard-or-easy it is, but you may find the c-clip a bit difficult to pry off the first time you try it ...

I would use a "scout"-type/camping knife (or, something that sturdy-and-stout a blade) and VERY slowly start to pry one end of the clip away from the hub ... after you have got one end clear of the flange, put something (anything) over the end of the hub and release the rest of the clip.

I believe I have a tool that spreads these things, will check. In fact, will go to town later and ask my bike shop friend if he can get me that spocket and how to pop off the old one. I think removing the rear wheel will be harder than the gear change, at least on this bike. It is good I like to tinker and experiment. It is a wondeful idea.

Before you take your project any further, do you have one of the Chinese motors which attaches inside the frame just above the pedals, and have you tried pedaling it around? I am referring to models like the Gru-Bee or the old Spit-fire. These are seemingly built mainly for powered use, not pedaling.

I had one for a while and those things can be very hard to pedal. You can declutch the motor but then you still have to drive the engine chain, engine output sprocket, and half of the clutch mechanism. There is quite a bit of drag.

garage sale GT said:

Before you take your project any further, do you have one of the Chinese motors which attaches inside the frame just above the pedals, and have you tried pedaling it around? I am referring to models like the Gru-Bee or the old Spit-fire. These are seemingly built mainly for powered use, not pedaling.

I had one for a while and those things can be very hard to pedal. You can declutch the motor but then you still have to drive the engine chain, engine output sprocket, and half of the clutch mechanism. There is quite a bit of drag.

If that is what you're up to, why not have a shop drill six holes in that dopey clamp-on sprocket, and buy a rear wheel with a disc hub but a rim which can take rim brakes, like the Deore/Rhynolite combo they sell online. Then you can bolt the sprocket to where the disc would go. I am sure it can take the torque because stopping seems to exert way more G's than the engine ever did. You could then mount the wheel on a standard MTB hardtail and use a standard 9-speed cassette on the other side.

I bought a small Honda GX25 and it powers the bike using a Golden Eagle Bike Engine belt drive kit. This kit makes it possible to disconnet the engine etc, so the bike can be riden like it was designed to be used.

If I feel the need to power or get to bottom of the hill, I stop and attach the belt and motor up, pedaling as well.