I need a new bike

Forget about it. You can't buy a decent new FS MTB with regular off road use in mind in that price range. Especially if you are just starting out you would be much better served getting something rigid.

Buying second hand is very difficult unless you are experienced with bikes and know what you are looking at, and how worn out it might be - this is not always clear from outward appearance. This is even more so the case with FS bikes.

My best advice would be to ask around and try and find the most reputable shop in your area (that doesn't necessarily mean the one with the cool guys and fancy bikes). Go in and tell them what you want to do in terms of riding MTB, and they should point you in the right direction. This may mean getting a decent second hand bike, or something new. Without knowing more about you, what your aspirations are (XC, DH, general riding), and what's available in your area, it's very hard to give you meaningful advice.

Sam

well i was lookin for sumthin that is reasonably cheap but will do the job. i need it to be good for a bit of off road but nuthin extreme. i also need it to be able to do some jumps (about 1.5 metres) any sujestions?

You can get a decent downhiller for around $1000. Goto http://www.froggy.com.au/adrianmachunter/ my web page. I have a repco duel extreme, which I bought for $650 new and two days ago I put a pair of MOZO IMO 5.5 forks on it. It takes the 3 meter drop offs and downhills very well.

PS the pics on my web site dont show the new forks, pics will be up next week... if you care 🙂

Really, you are not going to get a genuine DH MTB for that sort of money. If you are doing jumps and 10ft drops as Adrian suggests, it will simply fall apart in no time. The quality of parts used in this level of FS bike simply are not designed to take the abuse of full on DH riding.

I would strongly recommend you to look at something hardtail. A number of the major manufacturers are offering entry level dual slalom/jumping type bikes at a reasonable price point. Check out Specialized and Avanti in particular.

I think these go for around 1500
[IMG]avantibikes.comhot dog.jpgOpen ↗[/IMG]

thanks Allo but i dont need the bike for DH. i just want it for sum xc, jumps n drop offs.

thanks adrian, ill make sure i check those pics out. i dunno if ill be doin any 3m drop offs. im only up to 1.5m,...but thats alright for a 13 yr old riding a fs huffy aint it?

i 4got to re-ask, what do u think about a mongoose pro wing elite?(selling for around $900)

Frame Size
S
M
L

Head Tube Angle
71
71
71

Seat Angle
73
73
73

Top Tube Length
536
559
583

Chainstay Length
429
429
429

Headset Size
1 1/8
1 1/8
1 1/8

Seat Post Size
31.6mm
31.6mm
31.6mm

Frame Material 7005 alloy main frame w/cro-moly rear triangle with 4 bar linkage

Fork Material RST Gila TL Suspen.w/80mm travel w/adjustable preload

Rear Shock RST-22 coil over

Headset Zero Stack threadless 1 1/8"

Stem True Technologies Alloy

Bars TrueTechnologies alloy w/ 30mm rise

Rear Brake Promax MGD 4.0 mechanical disc

Front Brake Promax MGD 4.0 mechanical disc

Brake Levers Shimano EF-29 alloy

Front Derailleur Shimano Acera

Rear Derailleur Shimano Acera

Shifters Shimano EF-29 EZ-Fire

Freewheel SRAM 5.0 8 spd. Cassette 11-32t

Crankset Truvativ X-Forge alloy w/42/32/22t steel rings

Chain KMC Z-72

Pedals Alloy body w/steel cage

Tires Hutchinson Chameleon 26 x 1.95

Rims Alex SCE-17 alloy 32H Black

Hubs Formula cassette for disc brake

Seat Post True Technologies alloy micro adjust

Saddle Mongoose Dual Density

Twisties,

I have to say that doesn't seem like too bad a spec for the money. However, I'll make my initial point again, I think you would be better off buying a strong rigid framed bike and getting better quality components. If you look at the guys who are really into dirt jumping they all use hefty steel bikes (check out things like DMR) with front suspension. They often even use single speeds so as to have a stronger rear wheel.

If you do a bit of trail riding as well, you will appreciate the lighter weight and stiffness of a rigid frame and better components even more so.

The kind of bikes you are talking about can not handle heavy jumping over a long time. If you are only 13 I'm sure it's taken you a while to save up that sort of money. I would say that you probably want to get something that will be as strong as possible, and last as long as possible with your intended use. You don 't want to have to be replacing broken parts any sooner than you have to.

Don't be taken in by the fancy look of cheap FS bikes, they will only by more of a headache in the long run than a rigid framed bike.

Sam.

thanks again for ur help allo. i understand what u are saying but once you have had a fs bike, its so hard to go back. i will look around for a ht bike....but would tell me what u think about an upgrade from the wing elite to a wind pro(wing pro's spec listed below)

Frame Size
S
M
L

Head Tube Angle
71
71
71

Seat Angle
73
73
73

Top Tube Length
536
559
583

Chainstay Length
429
429
429

Headset Size
1 1/8
1 1/8
1 1/8

Seat Post Size
31.6mm
31.6mm
31.6mm

Frame Material 7005 full alloy frame with 4 bar linkage

Fork Material Manitou Six Suspen. w/100mm travel

Rear Shock RST-22 coil over

Headset Zero Stack Threadless 1 1/8"

Stem True Technologies Alloy

Bars TrueTechnologies alloy w/ 30mm rise

Rear Brake Promax MGD 7.0 mechanical disc

Front Brake Promax MGD 7.0 mechanical disc

Brake Levers Shimano Alivio alloy

Front Derailleur Shimano Alivio

Rear Derailleur Shimano Alivio

Shifters Shimano SL-MT20 Alivio Rapidfire+

Freewheel SRAM 5.0 8 spd. Cassette 11-32t

Crankset Truvativ Five D alloy w/ 42/32/22t steel rings

Chain KMC Z-72

Pedals Alloy body w/steel cage w/clip and strap

Tires Hutchinson Chameleon 26 x 1.95

Rims Mavic X-139 Disc

Hubs Formula cassette for disc brake

Seat Post True Technologies alloy micro adjust

Saddle Mongoose Dual Density

thanks alot😄

Hey Twisties,

Some bike shops have brand new 2002 spec Giant Warp DS2 MTB's left over from last year, which I have seen discounted down to around $1250.You could probably squeeze the retailer down some more on price,if you waved some money their way.

thanks 4 that tasdigi, ill check that out

by the way, can u suggest any bikeshops that may have these?

Where are you located?

sydney metro

sorry 4 askin about so many different bikes, but i think i have made my final decision. i saw a raceline extreme 2003 model. it was sellin for Au$1,299.

Extreme

Frame: 6061 Monocoque Frame with 7005 Unified Rear Triangle & X-Fusion Glyde Super Preload & Rebound Adjustable Rear Shock
Fork: RST Gila TL 89mm Travel with Preload Adjust
Shifters: Shimano Alivio 8 Speed
Wheels: Zac 19 Double Wall with Formula Disc Hub
Drivetrain: Shimano Alivio Chainwheel with Shimano Alivio Front & Rear Derailleur
Brakes: Promax Cable Disc Brake
Tyres: Michelin Wildgripper XL 26 x 2.0
Saddle: Selle Italia X.O EP with Embroided Logo
Handlebar: Titec Hellbent XC Alloy Riser & Lil Al Stem
Pedal: VP Steel Cage with Toe Clips & Straps.

...any thoughts on this one?

...sorry for annoing everyone by askin about every bike i come across, but i think this will be the lst.

I know you're probably hooked on the idea of full suspension now, and I have to say good FS bikes have a lot to offer. However, I'm guessing that you've never ridden a decent hard tail MTB for any length of time. Like I said before, most hard core dirt jumpers/DS racers ride small framed rigid bikes because they are stronger and more reliable (also for DS you can sprint faster). If you learn to jump well and develop good technique on a rigid bike you'll be a much better airman when you get on an FS rig and are fully able to exploit its capabilities. Once again I would recommend you to get this kind of bike, you don't want to be shelling out money all the time for bent pivot bolts (if indeed you can replace them) worn bushings, bent rear triangles etc etc etc (the list of possible woes with FS bikes is almost endless- ask any DH racer how much they spend per year on replacing broken bits, you'll be amazed). You, your wallet, and your riding will all be much better off in the long run if you buy a simple, strong bike that you can maintain yourself.

If I can't convince you of this (and it seems like I can't), I will try and offer some advice below on the bikes you are considering.

Between the Mongeese, I'd have to see a price difference to say whether it's worth it. Certainly the fork upgrade is worth having, the rims ought to last a little better, and the shifters are a bit better, but I wouldn't have thought it should add up to more than $200-$250 more. If it's less than that it's probably worth it. This is an indication of the trouble with how manufacturers spec bikes these days. They're happy to 'upgrade' those bits people notice, forks, rear derailleur etc; but when it comes to the things that make a difference to the long term function of the bike (hubs, BB, bearings instead of bushings in FS etc) forget about it! You'll be lucky to even find BB type even listed on many companies' spec sheets.

As for the Apollo you posted the specs for, I would point out firstly that this is a URT, and it's not an especially long travel fork. This is a bike that is designed more with general riding in mind than the kind of jumping/DH stuff you intend to do.

One final point of advice, is that bike build quality is just as important as specifications on bikes in this price range, if not more so. Now I'm not talking about weld or tube quality (that is fairly consistent), I'm talking about how well assembled it is by your LBS. Now it's possible to just pull that Mongoose or Raceline out of the box, slap a few bits on and it's ready to go in 5 minutes. That same bike will also have you back in the shop every few days to get this or that tightened, or something replaced that broke because it wasn't properly installed. Unfortunately most bike shop owners don't seem to realise this, and go for the "slap it together" approach. I'll list some questions below that you should ask the person who assembled your bike.

- Did you true and tension the wheels?
- Did you check the axle lock nuts?
- Did you tighten the bottom bracket cups?
- Did you press the headset?

Of course, there are lots of other things that should be done in the assembly of a bike, but unless your shop can give an immediate and resounding yes to all these, I'd advise you to go elsewhere. If you feel uncomfortable asking such things (as might be understandable as you're only 13). Check some things for youself. You shouldn't be able to move (front or drive-side)spokes much at all just by squeezing them. Try to move wheels side to side, is there any play? Try pushing on brake pads, do they move? (if your bike has discs try it on another bike, this will be a good indication of how much care the shop takes). Try and twist brake levers on the bar, try and shift the stem on the steerer by holding the wheel in your legs and turning the bars etc etc.

Give the bike you might buy a good going over, if it fails many of these above tests go elsewhere. Also, ask what sort of after sales service the shop offers. If it's only minimal or none, this is a good sign the shop is not confident of it's work. At my old shop customers could come back in as often as they wanted for 1 year after purchase, this is because we were confident in the job we did assembling the bike and were pretty sure nothing would go wrong unless defective or just worn out.

Anyway, I've rambled long enough, I hope you find the bike you're after, and that you're happy with it. Even if you don't take my advice on bike selection, please do take it on shop selection, you'll thank me. The shop that offers you the same bike for $200 less, may not offer the better deal of they've skimped on build quality and after sales service.

Sam.

oooooooook. i think ill have to print those questions. thanks for all that info sam.

i suppose i should have mentioned this earlier, but i can not jump ht's for peanuts. i just cant control the bike because im not used to them weighing so little. im only small myself but i am pretty strong so i find it easy to have a heavy bike.

if i ride my brothers bmx i cant control it. i go over a jump and it just flings up into the air. ive hurt myself to many times on that bike. i can only use that for general riding through the park or sumthin.

so anyway, no i dont think you will be able to convince me about the fs or ht. i wont be doing any hardcore downhill. i only go realy slow when i do that anyway. the closest dh track to my place is about 1hr15min away.

i just need it for doing small-medium jumps and a few 1.5m drop offs. the guy in the shop said that the raceline would be good for that, just nuthin extreme. besides i can be a bit of a wuss when it comes to big stuff so i prob wont be doin anythin that big.

i think this bike is a realy good buy. it was marked down from $1,400 to $1,300 and i bet i could hagle a bit off that too.
ill post its spec again:
frame: 6061 Monocoque Frame with 7005 Unified Rear Triangle & X-Fusion Glyde Super Preload & Rebound Adjustable Rear Shock
Fork: RST Gila TL 89mm Travel with Preload Adjust
Shifters: Shimano Alivio 8 Speed
Wheels: Zac 19 Double Wall with Formula Disc Hub
Drivetrain: Shimano Alivio Chainwheel with Shimano Alivio Front & Rear Derailleur
Brakes: Promax Cable Disc Brake
Tyres: Michelin Wildgripper XL 26 x 2.0
Saddle: Selle Italia X.O EP with Embroided Logo
Handlebar: Titec Hellbent XC Alloy Riser & Lil Al Stem
Pedal: VP Steel Cage with Toe Clips & Straps.

tell me what u think about this one ^.

twisties.

I am serious about the quality of a bike's build, it does make a huge difference. You don't need to really go in there with a list and give them the third degree, but try and make sure you buy from somewhere with some scruples. What you said about the shop guy telling you the Raceline would be good for jumping and drop-offs makes me think that is not necessarily the case at the place you're dealing with. I'll paste in again what I said above about that bike.

As for the Apollo (ie: Raceline) you posted the specs for, I would point out firstly that this is a URT, and it's not an especially long travel fork. This is a bike that is designed more with general riding in mind than the kind of jumping/DH stuff you intend to do.

URTs are not jumping/freeride bikes, they are cross country full suspension bikes. Even having said that, there's very few of them around these days as the design has generally been superseeded by more active XC FS designs that don't have the bobbing problems that pre-URT FS bikes had. This makes me think the bike is possibly NOS and they want to move it, this could be a good buy if that is the kind of bike you want.

That said the parts mix is decent, and it seems pretty good for the money, you just need to make sure the bike suits your intended purpose.

Sam.

could u suggest a fs mtb for just general off road and a little jumping. i dont no if ur in australia or not. but any bike u think might be good for me thats around au$1,000, cause im realy lost and i dunno what i should be lookin at or for. (keeping in mind that im looking for a fs, i am not planning to do dh on it, and i dont weigh a lot [so i dont need a super strong frame])

i no that this bike may cost considerably more than $1000 but list it anyway. rocky mountains seem like a good brand but i dont no any bike shops near me that sell them so i have no idea of their price range....do u?

thanks for all help given in ur last reply sam😄

....and does anyone no of the price range of a haro mtb in aus?