Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Hybrid vs Flat Bar Road bike

Started by Ken M · · Last activity · 23 posts · 1,484 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
9 September 2005
Last activity
12 September 2005
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Ken M
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  1. I am having a heck of time trying to decide what type of bike to buy
    for my first 'NEW' bike. At first I was leaning towards a hardtail mtb,
    like the Trek 3700 or 4300, then after thinking about it for a day or
    so I decided that that would be 'more bike than I need' so then I was
    considering the Trek 7000 series hybrids particularly the 7300, or the
    Giant Cypress DX. But then I started looking at a couple of 'Flat Bar
    Road Bikes' like the Ibex Corrida or one of the K2 flat bar models. I
    think it's called the 'Astral' or something like that.

    I like and can tolerate the more upright geometry that the hardtails
    give, which seems to be the same with the hybrids, but I like the
    lightweightness of a road bike.

    I have been only trying to look in the local bike shops so I can 'put
    my hands' on the bikes and 'see' them in person. But with only two LBS
    my selection seems a little limited ( 5 brands ), Trek, Raliegh,
    Cannondale, Giant, and Sun recumbents.

    I know that as a first time bike buyer I 'should' by from a local
    dealer. But if I decide to buy over the net are there any little
    mistakes I could make that will turn into huge probelms? I know about
    sizing, is there any thing else I need to consider?

    Ken

  2. Ken M <[email hidden]> wrote:
    :>I am having a heck of time trying to decide what type of bike to buy
    :> for my first 'NEW' bike. At first I was leaning towards a hardtail
    :> mtb, like the Trek 3700 or 4300, then after thinking about it for a
    :> day or so I decided that that would be 'more bike than I need' so
    :> then I was considering the Trek 7000 series hybrids particularly the
    :> 7300, or the Giant Cypress DX. But then I started looking at a
    :> couple of 'Flat Bar Road Bikes' like the Ibex Corrida or one of the
    :> K2 flat bar models. I think it's called the 'Astral' or something
    :> like that.

    Why get a flat-bar road bike?

    :>
    :> I like and can tolerate the more upright geometry that the hardtails
    :> give, which seems to be the same with the hybrids, but I like the
    :> lightweightness of a road bike.

    Why not a Trek 1000?

    :>
    :> I have been only trying to look in the local bike shops so I can 'put
    :> my hands' on the bikes and 'see' them in person. But with only two
    :> LBS my selection seems a little limited ( 5 brands ), Trek, Raliegh,
    :> Cannondale, Giant, and Sun recumbents.

    That seems like plenty...

    :>
    :> I know that as a first time bike buyer I 'should' by from a local
    :> dealer. But if I decide to buy over the net are there any little
    :> mistakes I could make that will turn into huge probelms? I know about
    :> sizing, is there any thing else I need to consider?

    I can't comment on this! 🙂 Good luck though.

  3. ** Why get a flat-bar road bike? **

    For the the more upright position.

    ** Why not a Trek 1000? **

    My back doesn't like the drop bars that are on a 1000.

    Ken

  4. ** Doesn't seem to me like there's a necessary correlation between
    uprightness of
    position and bar type. **

    There probably isn't any, I think it is mostly the design of the frames
    meaning the overall geometry. I find that the geo of the hardtail mtb's
    and hybrid to be more to my liking, if I could find a road frame with
    this design I would buy it, but from my research most road bikes have
    much differnt geo than mtb's and hybrids.

    ** a hardtail
    with slicks **

    That is what my current ride is, but it is an old heavy ( boat anchor )
    steel frame.

    Ken

  5. Ken M <[email hidden]> wrote:
    :> ** Why get a flat-bar road bike? **
    :>
    :> For the the more upright position.
    :>
    :> ** Why not a Trek 1000? **
    :>
    :> My back doesn't like the drop bars that are on a 1000.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html

    Raise the bar up to a comfortable height. Also, that Trek 1000 is a comfort
    bike, not an agressive road-racer bike. It has features built in for your
    style of riding.

  6. Per Ken M:

    Quoted message said:

    I like and can tolerate the more upright geometry that the hardtails
    give, which seems to be the same with the hybrids, but I like the
    lightweightness of a road bike.

    Doesn't seem to me like there's a necessary correlation between uprightness of
    position and bar type. Only that maybe bikes with drop bars come off the
    shelf with less stem elevation... but that can be worked around.

    I'm primarily an FS rider, and even my "road" (quotes bc it's just a hardtail
    with slicks...) bike had risers on it.... but even I would opine that doing a
    road ride on the hoods with drop bars at the same height as risers is going to
    be significantly more comfortable after a couple of hours.
    --
    PeteCresswell

  7. Ken M said:

    ** Why get a flat-bar road bike? **

    For the the more upright position.

    ** Why not a Trek 1000? **

    My back doesn't like the drop bars that are on a 1000.

    Ken

    IMO drop bars are superior for road riding... at least if you plan on
    riding fair distances. There should be no problem getting them in the
    right place... giving you that "more upright position" that you prefer.
    You just need a stem with a good rise (and the shop should be happy to
    swap this out for free) and maybe an uncut steerer tube on the fork.
    Make sure that it feels comfortable when you are on the hoods. You can
    reserve the drops for descents and headwinds.

  8. ** Also, that Trek 1000 is a comfort
    bike, not an agressive road-racer bike. It has features built in for
    your
    style of riding. **

    I looked at the Trek website and found the geometry for the 1000, it
    still does not exactly have the geo of the hybrids.

    Ken

  9. Per Ken M:

    Quoted message said:

    ** Doesn't seem to me like there's a necessary correlation between
    uprightness of
    position and bar type. **

    There probably isn't any, I think it is mostly the design of the frames

    In retrospect, I think I misread your post - thinking you were talking about
    uprightness of rider position, when you were actually talking about uprightness
    of bike head tube angle.
    --
    PeteCresswell

  10. Ken M <[email hidden]> wrote:
    :> ** Also, that Trek 1000 is a comfort
    :> bike, not an agressive road-racer bike. It has features built in for
    :> your
    :> style of riding. **
    :>
    :> I looked at the Trek website and found the geometry for the 1000, it
    :> still does not exactly have the geo of the hybrids.

    Did you look at the 1000C? What is it about the geo of the hybirds that's
    so special?

  11. ** Did you look at the 1000C? **

    Yeah I just looked it up, okay I guess I was slightly wrong, they are
    not that far apart, but then I think I was looking at the other 1000.
    Headtube angle is only like 1/2 degree different and the seat tube
    angle is the same, and actually the top tube lenght is shorter on the
    1000c than on the 7300. So thanks for pointing that out. I think this
    may put the 1000c in the running for my money.

    Ken

  12. Ken M <[email hidden]> wrote:
    :> ** Did you look at the 1000C? **
    :>
    :> Yeah I just looked it up, okay I guess I was slightly wrong, they are
    :> not that far apart, but then I think I was looking at the other 1000.
    :> Headtube angle is only like 1/2 degree different and the seat tube
    :> angle is the same, and actually the top tube lenght is shorter on the
    :> 1000c than on the 7300. So thanks for pointing that out. I think this
    :> may put the 1000c in the running for my money.
    :>
    :> Ken

    Actually, I was thinking of the 1000C from the getgo and had not realized
    there was a 1000 (no C) until jj pointed it out. I'm familar with the
    comfort bikes as my Specialized is of that type (though I'm not sure how
    similar they really are). My Specialized even has two sets of brake handles
    (not sure if that's a good thing but I do find myself using the ones mounted
    on the tops more than those on the hoods).

  13. Well I just looked more closely at the specs for the 1000c and and it
    too has those bar top brake levers. And funny thing, at the second LBS
    here in town, the one that only sells Giants, I looked at an OCR road
    bike and it too had the bar top brake levers, and an ' ajustable rise
    stem ' just like on the 1000c. Now I don't know what the 1000c weights
    but I picked up the OCR and it felt like a feather! I was considering
    this bike also.

    Ken

  14. Ken M said:

    I am having a heck of time trying to decide what type of bike to buy

    <snip>

    You've mentioned everything except what kind of riding you expect to
    do. That's the place to start, IMO. You gonna carry stuff? Go fast?
    Ride in nasty weather? Baby your aching back? The details (geometry,
    bar type, etc.) don't mean anything without context.
    I suggest you tell a shop what kind of riding you're going to do and
    see what happens. A good shop will answer all your questions and get
    you on a comfortable bike that's in your price range. Let the shop
    figure this stuff out... it's what they do.

    -Vee

  15. ** You gonna carry stuff? **

    Thats a big yes, some self supported touring is on my list of things I
    will be doing on this new bike.

    ** Go fast? **

    Not really, I don't plan on riding the TDF.

    ** Ride in nasty weather? **

    Yes, doesn't everyone?

    ** Baby your aching back? **

    Yes, injured back years ago, still have lingering pain.

    ** Let the shop
    figure this stuff out **

    IMO, sometimes they are less than helpful.

    Ken

  16. Alot of replies. Hope you get to read mine's. If you're in the
    market for a Trek 7000 series, I'd like to reccomend the 7000FX
    series. The difference is it doesn't have the front shocks, so
    you don't lose power to the crank. It's basically a faster bike.
    You still have the seat post shock, though. I have a 7200FX and
    my wife has a 7100. Both are good quality machines, but I think
    the FX is just all around better. Cheaper, too, because it
    doesn't have that front shock, there. The FX line has many in
    your price range. I can ride it all day with no discomfort, and I
    do not have bar ends added on. Good luck with your search for a
    new bike. I know I was a pain in the ass to my LBS for a while
    before I decided.

    ~Rob

    "Ken M" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...
    : I am having a heck of time trying to decide what type of bike
    to buy
    : for my first 'NEW' bike. At first I was leaning towards a
    hardtail mtb,
    : like the Trek 3700 or 4300, then after thinking about it for a
    day or
    : so I decided that that would be 'more bike than I need' so then
    I was
    : considering the Trek 7000 series hybrids particularly the 7300,
    or the
    : Giant Cypress DX. But then I started looking at a couple of
    'Flat Bar
    : Road Bikes' like the Ibex Corrida or one of the K2 flat bar
    models. I
    : think it's called the 'Astral' or something like that.
    :
    : I like and can tolerate the more upright geometry that the
    hardtails
    : give, which seems to be the same with the hybrids, but I like
    the
    : lightweightness of a road bike.
    :
    : I have been only trying to look in the local bike shops so I
    can 'put
    : my hands' on the bikes and 'see' them in person. But with only
    two LBS
    : my selection seems a little limited ( 5 brands ), Trek,
    Raliegh,
    : Cannondale, Giant, and Sun recumbents.
    :
    : I know that as a first time bike buyer I 'should' by from a
    local
    : dealer. But if I decide to buy over the net are there any
    little
    : mistakes I could make that will turn into huge probelms? I know
    about
    : sizing, is there any thing else I need to consider?
    :
    : Ken
    :

  17. "Ken M" <[email hidden]> wrote >

    Quoted message said:

    My back doesn't like the drop bars that are on a 1000.

    Ken

    In my estimation, you either have a severe back problem or you have not yet
    experienced the (comfortable) thrill of riding a road bike that fits you.
    --
    Mykal C
    Seattle, WA

  18. Ron Ruff said:
    Ken M said:

    ** Why get a flat-bar road bike? **

    For the the more upright position.

    ** Why not a Trek 1000? **

    My back doesn't like the drop bars that are on a 1000.

    Ken

    IMO drop bars are superior for road riding... at least if you plan on
    riding fair distances. There should be no problem getting them in the
    right place... giving you that "more upright position" that you prefer.
    You just need a stem with a good rise (and the shop should be happy to
    swap this out for free) and maybe an uncut steerer tube on the fork.
    Make sure that it feels comfortable when you are on the hoods. You can
    reserve the drops for descents and headwinds.

    To enlarge on this, with drop bars, you have several different hand
    positions your can use, but really only one with the flat bar. This
    greatly alleviates the numb hand problem by at least varying the
    pressure on the ulnar nerve.

    Mike

  19. ** In my estimation, you either have a severe back problem or you have
    not yet
    experienced the (comfortable) thrill of riding a road bike that fits
    you.**

    Well i don't know that it is a severe back problem, but I was in a
    couple of car wrecks and injured my back somewhat. I don't know the
    exact extend of the injuries, or if they have worsened over time. I
    live a normal life, I am not confined to a bed or wheelchair.. I think
    it is probably more of a fit issue.

    Ken

  20. "Ken M" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    ** Did you look at the 1000C? **

    Yeah I just looked it up, okay I guess I was slightly wrong, they are
    not that far apart, but then I think I was looking at the other 1000.
    Headtube angle is only like 1/2 degree different and the seat tube
    angle is the same, and actually the top tube lenght is shorter on the
    1000c than on the 7300. So thanks for pointing that out. I think this
    may put the 1000c in the running for my money.

    Ken

    The guys at my LBS told me they sold a 1000C to a fellow who lost his DL due
    to DUIs. He rides it on his 20 mile commute 5 days a week. I looked at one
    and it seemed like a nice bike.

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