How to clean drive train

My first suggestion would be to either get a chain that has a quick disconnect link, or get your LBS to put a disconnecting link into your existing chain. Once you can take the chain off, it's a snap to clean it inside your house in a bowl of water and simple green.

I have one of those Park Tool Chain cleaning contraptions which I will glady send you for the cost of postage, they're total Rubish...I used it once and it splashed everywhere....

As someone already said, the best way is to have a quick disconnect in your Chain (My Record version already has one)...you can then take the Chain off....

Once a month I take my Chain off and the Cassette also, soak them in a de-greaser, blow them off with compressed air, then wash them in soap and water, blow off again, and soak the Chain in 3M 5-way spray...blow it off again and pull it through a clean Rag...everything always looks brand new...

Incidentally, 3M 5-Way is a brilliant chain lube in my opinion, once you apply it on a completely clean chain, I used to use so called "Chain Lube" I tried several different brands but they all collect dirt, 5-way finds it's way into the pores of the metal and of course roller bearings and doesn't attract dust, the chain feels slick but not sticky....
Here's an example....
http://www.knifeandgun.com/catalog/3m_5_way_penetrant_1534251.htm and at only $8 a Can it lasts for ever....

But whatever you decide to use, removing the Chain and Cassette is the easiest and best way to clean a drive-train, and I'm serious about sending you the Park-Tool chain cleaner!!

Cheers then.

chero said:

I would appreciate advice on the best way to clean lubricant and dirt off my chain and gears. Mine get dirty pretty fast from winter commuting. I have used brushes and dishwashing liquid (Dawn) and rinsing with a hose, with fair results. But, the chain is still a bit sticky at the end, that is, doesn't seem to be completely cleared of lubricant. Also, in the winter, this is a bit uncomfortable: cold and wet, and a hassle to get out a hose, then empty it to keep it from freezing. Are any of those chain-cleaning gizmos any good? Do you use them with a solvent/degreaser? What is an effective but safe and environmentally friendly degreaser? Do you rinse off after that, or just wipe off? Or, can you use one of those gizmos with dish detergent to keep it more under control and less messy?

Thanks,

Chero

Thanks for the posts. Very helpful. Guess I can skip the Park chain-washer, but thanks for the offer. Sure you don't want to throw in the postage?!
Jaguar, what do you use for a degreaser? Or can I get by with something less toxic like Simple Green as frenchyge suggests?

Chero

P.S. Loved the Churchill quote. Here is another: "I am a man of very simple tastes...I am easily satisfied with the best."

chero said:

Thanks for the posts. Very helpful. Guess I can skip the Park chain-washer, but thanks for the offer. Sure you don't want to throw in the postage?!
Jaguar, what do you use for a degreaser? Or can I get by with something less toxic like Simple Green as frenchyge suggests?

Chero

P.S. Loved the Churchill quote. Here is another: "I am a man of very simple tastes...I am easily satisfied with the best."

Great! I'm a big Fan of Winnie the Church!!

But to answer your question, most Bike shops sell a biodegradable citrus de-greaser, so do automotive shops etc...Simple green sounds good too! I use a really strong de-greaser that I can't remember the name of...I put all my parts in a zip-lock bad and do them at work...😉 Then I bring my shiney clean parts home and put them back on the bike...

Put the chain in a Tupperware container, pour in the de-greaser, put the lid on and shake it side to side, kinda agitate it...then use a soft Paint brush...works great!!!

frenchyge said:

My first suggestion would be to either get a chain that has a quick disconnect link, or get your LBS to put a disconnecting link into your existing chain. Once you can take the chain off, it's a snap to clean it inside your house in a bowl of water and simple green.

I concur about the quick release link. I use Pedro's bio degreaser and keep some in a small tupperware and re-use it for a few cleanings. I remove the cassette, soak it, rinse it and clean the cogs with a rag. With the chain I soak that as well and then rince it and dry it off. I do this every couple weeks and after 5,000 miles, the cassette still looks brand new and the chain still hasn't stretched to where I would replace it. The little extra effort spent cleaning helps the equipment last longer and makes the bike sing.
😎

Jaguar27 said:

Once a month I take my Chain off and the Cassette also, soak them in a de-greaser, blow them off with compressed air....

😕 blowing degreaser off the parts with compressed air is fine, but the Park chain cleaner thingy splashed too much? That thing must have *really* splashed a lot... 😄

frenchyge said:

😕 blowing degreaser off the parts with compressed air is fine, but the Park chain cleaner thingy splashed too much? That thing must have *really* splashed a lot... 😄

😄 😄 I like it!!

The problem with the Park chain cleaner thingy is that when you run the Chain through it all the Cleaner, mixed with old chain oil and grit etc spins off the Cassette all over the wheels and chainstays etc....it makes an awfull mess... 😠

Thanks again for all the helpful advice. Taking the chain off with a removable link sounds like a good tip to cut down on mess and make this easier, particularly in the winter.

Chero

frenchyge said:

My first suggestion would be to either get a chain that has a quick disconnect link, or get your LBS to put a disconnecting link into your existing chain. Once you can take the chain off, it's a snap to clean it inside your house in a bowl of water and simple green.

My fist suggestion is to do a search as this has been covered many times in previous threads and there is a lot of useful infomation there ... some from posters who are no longer on the board ... or have gotten bored with the board. 😉

Doctor Morbius said:

My fist suggestion is to do a search as this has been covered many times in previous threads and there is a lot of useful infomation there ... some from posters who are no longer on the board ... or have gotten bored with the board. 😉

Well, your first suggestion is a little late, 'cause my first suggestion was here first. 🙂

Hi

Using a chain cleaner has to be more convienent than taking the chain off each time (which is a messy job in its own right), I use the finish-line chain cleaner which has a sponge at the chain exit end to mop up the excess degreaser so it doesn't drip everywhere, also the rotary brushes do a good job in getting rid of the grit in bit the links. The finishline chain clear also has a magnet in the reservoir to attract the metallic grit so it doesn't get back on the chain again, this is a feature I haven't see on other units.

It only takes a few minutes to get the chain clean using this method. So if you need to do it often, this has to be simpler than breaking the chain

finishlineusa.comchain cleaner.htmOpen ↗

Regards
Ken

frenchyge said:

Well, your first suggestion is a little late, 'cause my first suggestion was here first. 🙂

I use the park tools cleaner, and like the above posts says, it also has sponges to soak up the spillage. As long as it is kept horizontal and you dont crank too hard, spillage is absolutely minimal.

That said, a through soaking every now and then, maybe every other cleaning, is a good thing. I use Greased Lightning from the auto shops. The citrus stuff from the bike shop worked well, too, but i found it over priced.

For lube, I use Dumonde Tech- Light Formula. It was recommended to me for more wet conditions by my LBS and hasnt let me down yet. A little pricey, but I dont have to apply it as often as the White Lightning I used to use.

I have never had a problem using the Finish Line or Park mechanical chain cleaners. For me, it is extremely simple and does not create a mess by any stretch of the imagination. Adjust your shifters to the highest gears, and it magically stays away from the rear wheel. It's a $25 no-brainer.

parktool.comdetail.aspOpen ↗