How much should i pay for a cycling helmet?



If your only helmet was free and you are the type to lend a helmet to a friend, I'd say $20 at Walmart.

I use Giro helmets because they are super comfortable to me and barely noticeable on long climbs and heat. I pay about $150 -$180 when I can get them on sale. But I would never lend a helmet to a friend, heck I don'e even let them look at them. :D

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I love these images. Thanks for sharing.
 
Helmets come in at all different kind of prices, but if you're serious about your riding, then you should be serious about your own protectuon aswell. While a lot of people might not be able to spend $150+ on a cycle helmet, what you should do is buy the most expensive one you can, and just make sure it's tested to the required standards and specifications.
 
I agree with pwarbi, just buy the most expensive helmet you can afford at this time. You'll be glad later on that you spent the money for better quality. Unless, of course, you can find someone who's getting out of cycling and looking to unload their equipment for cheap. Then, you could get the quality without breaking the bank. Have you checked Craigslist?
 
Maybe just stick to the middle price range, as it's not to cheap to doubt its effectiveness and durability, while not too expensive, since most of the really expensive ones are just for the paint job and maybe branding. So as long as you have a sturdy enough helmet, and as long as it will do the job right, you'll be fine. There are lots of helmets on the market, and I think there are even tests to make sure they are up to standards, like a crash test or something.
 
The price of the helmet completely depends upon the quality of the helmet. If you want a really strong and reliable helmet, you need to spend at least $30. You can buy many cheap helmets for the price range of $10-$15 but you can't expect a good quality.
 
If your only helmet was free and you are the type to lend a helmet to a friend, I'd say $20 at Walmart.

I use Giro helmets because they are super comfortable to me and barely noticeable on long climbs and heat. I pay about $150 -$180 when I can get them on sale. But I would never lend a helmet to a friend, heck I don'e even let them look at them. :D

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giro1_zps0897d3cf.jpg


0bikestuff2_zps6shymwgz.jpg
The helmet looks very cool but is it worth $180? The look of the helmet is not only the thing that matters. After all, the helmets are made for safety. What will you say about the strangeness. Is it solid?
 
Well, if buying online is not a problem for you, then you might want to check online at amazon, they have some good quality products and the best part is reading the reviews which are very informative
 
I think the sweet spot for helmets is around $100 to 125, BUT, I would never pay that much, I would wait till I found a huge closeout sale sometime in the fall when the road stuff goes on sale. Also I would try to buy a helmet with the MIPS technology in it. Aero helmets are great for racing or fast group rides, but if you're just riding to ride opt for more vents and MIPS, and if possible a helmet that has some sort of provision to close off at least the front vents for cooler weather riding but that's not as important as MIPS and vents because you can always buy a helmet cover to block the cool wind.

By the way, when I say sale price, I mean at least 50% off.
 
Aren't all biking helmets pretty much made from the same stuff? If it fits, wear it, is my motto. I feel ridiculous wearing my helmet. Even though I do wear it, I always feel like I've got the stupid thing on backwards and I also always wonder what this little chunk of painted polystyrene foam is going to protect exactly. It's certainly not going to prevent me from breaking my neck in a fall, nor is it going to last long if I should happen to fall. I figure, why buy an expensive helmet when it's made from the same stuff as the cheaper models anyway?
 
Aren't all biking helmets pretty much made from the same stuff? If it fits, wear it, is my motto. I feel ridiculous wearing my helmet. Even though I do wear it, I always feel like I've got the stupid thing on backwards and I also always wonder what this little chunk of painted polystyrene foam is going to protect exactly. It's certainly not going to prevent me from breaking my neck in a fall, nor is it going to last long if I should happen to fall. I figure, why buy an expensive helmet when it's made from the same stuff as the cheaper models anyway?

Actually they are not made alike, they are all made to pass the same federal government requirement no matter the price. But the better ones are made of materials that last longer, they have better vents, and some even make theirs to exceed the minimum government standard like helmets with MIPS, and or helmets with exoskeleton type of reinforcement inside the helmet to help keep it together in an impact. You go to Walmart and look at their helmets, the plastic they use for holding the straps is crappy thin, the helmet plastic external cover is simply glued in place which over time will become unglued instead of fused into the whatever foam they're using; the strap buckles are poor quality and probably won't last a year. There is a lot that can go into a helmet that makes it worth spending more money, however like I said earlier all road bicycle gear, in this case helmets, goes on sale in the fall, and you should be able to pick upt $100 plus helmets for $50 range which is only $20 or so more than a Walmart helmet! And you're getting a much better helmet.
 
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It depends on what you would be riding. There are cheap helmets that do fine. I have one for $20 and I had two accidents with it before I replaced it. Yeah, I know, I should have thrown it out after one but, well, that is what happened.

If you're going fast though be it mountain biking or road cycling, get one with the MIPS lining. It's going to be expensive though but worth it.

No it doesn't. You don't have to be moving very fast to get smashed up by something that is. You should get the best protection that you can afford, period. There are many models that exceed those minimum standards, and there is also the whole quality issue. Straps and webbing that wear etc...
 
There are many different brands and type of helmet. I have used the helmet of almost every company and I would say that you should choose the expensive ones. You can get a specific helmet for a very cheap price ($15) but I am sure they are not worth the price. You should stay away from these local helmets. You should always choose a good and reputed brand of the helmet having a reasonable price tag.
 
can any one help
I recently bought a claud butler alpina 2.7 2015 through cycle to work scheme, I had problems with brakes and gear slipping , the brakes I upgraded at a cost as they were not stopping me very well . upgrade from clarks exo skeletal to shimano deore , but I was charged a little fee, but im still having gears slip all time- when I take it back they tighten cable and it happens again. they said my deraileaur arm was bent straighted it up but still doing it- Im not doing any extreme riding just mainly flat trails for fitness so im not throwing bike around and I am carefull when I put bike away , any one got any thoughts
 
can any one help
I recently bought a claud butler alpina 2.7 2015 through cycle to work scheme, I had problems with brakes and gear slipping , the brakes I upgraded at a cost as they were not stopping me very well . upgrade from clarks exo skeletal to shimano deore , but I was charged a little fee, but im still having gears slip all time- when I take it back they tighten cable and it happens again. they said my deraileaur arm was bent straighted it up but still doing it- Im not doing any extreme riding just mainly flat trails for fitness so im not throwing bike around and I am carefull when I put bike away , any one got any thoughts

You need to repost this on the Mountain Bike section of this forum, this particular post is discussing helmets and not anything else. But to save you some time I will do my best to help you.

You may something as simple as the factory, or if the cable was replaced after it was new, failed to pre compress the housing after the wire was installed through it; there is a cable stretching tool that mechanics use just for this purpose, once the cable is pre stretched then this nonsense you may be experiencing might stop but might not either if something else is causing the problem. At this point I would probably have new cables installed but if you do that take the bike to a different bike shop because the one you're taking it to seems ignorant on how to fix something as simple as the problem you have.

If the derailleur was bent the mechanic may not have either bent the derailleur back correctly OR your derailleur hanger is bent or the dropout (where the wheel slips into a slot on each side) where the derailleur is fastened to if there is no hanger is bent. Either way if that is the issue the mechanic failed to check and do it properly which means find another mechanic.

Or if the derailleur was hit and the hanger was bent it's possible that the derailleur may have been damaged and is binding when being used.

Or perhaps the nut that holds the wire tight at the derailleur is somehow not able to tighten properly and clamp the cable securely might be allowing the cable to slowly slip.

Beyond the above stuff you could have a worn out chain and or rear gear cluster which I doubt the gear cluster would be worn out at this early stage of your bikes life but it could be. Speaking of gear cluster it's also possible that the cassette lockring is loose and needs to be tightened.

Once that has all been resolved the last issue would be the shifter itself.

There may be other things I might have missed that someone else may suggest.

If you haven't gotten my point yet, FIND ANOTHER BIKE SHOP!!!
 
they have now changed the chain and the cable casing to the derailleur but im still having problems , they now saying as im abig lad I could be putting too much power through the pedals and wearing thisngs out, but they sold me the bike maybe they should have recommended a better one its really doing my head in, im new to cycling and this is killing my enjoyment - if I was told from start this bike may not be suitable I could have got a better one think they just sold me a old bike to get rid of it - ive raised serious complaint as im really feeling they have let me down with quality of bike they recomeded me buy
 
they have now changed the chain and the cable casing to the derailleur but im still having problems , they now saying as im abig lad I could be putting too much power through the pedals and wearing thisngs out, but they sold me the bike maybe they should have recommended a better one its really doing my head in, im new to cycling and this is killing my enjoyment - if I was told from start this bike may not be suitable I could have got a better one think they just sold me a old bike to get rid of it - ive raised serious complaint as im really feeling they have let me down with quality of bike they recomeded me buy

I just noticed this post, bad me, sorry. I think the bike shop is copping out, they didn't sell you a bad bike what they sold you is a bad mechanic and a bad bike shop. Most high end bikes are built to take a rider from 180 to 220 pounds, once you go to a mid level bike will go to 260 pounds, these weight limits do vary from manufacture to manufacture and from model to model but that's about the average. So lets say you're a big powerful guy, the stuff that could be causing problems that I talked about earlier has NOTHING to do with your power! nor did the stuff they changed out. I know a guy that weighed 240 pounds and was a professional bodybuilder and what he broke was bottom bracket shells, that's the part of the frame that holds the bottom bracket and crank, but those bikes initially were small diameter Vitus aluminium bikes, but then later he broke aluminum Klein and Cannondale fames. The biggest problem big guys have is actually wheels, they break spokes and crack rims if the wheels are not built correctly for their weight. Back in the old days of my friend he was riding on 36 spoke rims and those rims held him just find so the point that gave out was the bottom bracket shell due to him hammering up steep mountain roads.

I cannot stress enough to find another shop and another mechanic and get a second opinion, but I seriously doubt you're too big and powerful for your bike, if you were we would be discussing wheel failures.
 
Buy the BRIGHTEST helmet you can. You want to be seen and as a helmet is the highest point its likely to be seen from a long way.