How high should the handlebars be?

Chris Hansen said:

How high should the handlebars on a road bike be? I just
took one I've fixed up for a test ride and, with the stem
raised up as high as it goes, it felt kind of low. It was
ok in the higher positions but in the drops it definatly
felt low.

For most people, having the stem the same height as the
saddle is about right. If you're not comfortable with that
stem height, it's possible the stem is too long.

It's also possible that you're just not used to the position
of a road bike. It takes some time in the saddle to get
comfortable on the drops.
--
terry morse Palo Alto, CA bike.terrymorse.combike.terrymorse.comOpen ↗

Quoted message said:

How high should the handlebars on a road bike be? I just
took one I've fixed up for a test ride and, with the stem
raised up as high as it goes, it felt kind of low. It was
ok in the higher positions but in the drops it definatly
felt low.

On modern road bikes, people tend to spend far less time in
the drops than they used to back in the day. Why? Because
shifting is easier from the top of the hoods, and the brakes
are so much better that you no longer need a death grip on
the levers, so you don't have to go to the drops to get
enough power to stop.

If it felt *good* in the higher positions, that would be
fine. But if it only feels "ok" then I'd question if you're
set up correctly. How tall are you, and how much drop from
the top of the stem to the top of the bars on your old
Schwinn vs the one you test-rode?

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
chainreactionbicycles.comchainreactionbicycles.comOpen ↗

"Chris Hansen" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hello,

How high should the handlebars on a road bike be? I just
took one I've fixed up for a test ride and, with the stem
raised up as high as it goes, it felt kind of low. It was
ok in the higher positions but in the drops it definatly
felt low.

I haven't been on a road bike in about 15 years and I had
two jackets on and a backpack so it might not be the best
test conditions.

Would it be worth the money to get a taller stem or is the
frame not big enough or am I just not used to it? It's an
old Schwinn LeTour by the way with a 25 inch frame if I
measured correctly.

Thanks.

On 11 Mar 2004 18:41:44 -0800, [email hidden] (Chris

Hansen) said:

Hello,

How high should the handlebars on a road bike be? I just
took one I've fixed up for a test ride and, with the stem
raised up as high as it goes, it felt kind of low. It was
ok in the higher positions but in the drops it definatly
felt low.

I haven't been on a road bike in about 15 years and I had
two jackets on and a backpack so it might not be the best
test conditions.

Would it be worth the money to get a taller stem or is the
frame not big enough or am I just not used to it? It's an
old Schwinn LeTour by the way with a 25 inch frame if I
measured correctly.

Thanks.

On 11 Mar 2004 18:41:44 -0800, [email hidden] (Chris

Hansen) said:

Hello,

How high should the handlebars on a road bike be? I just
took one I've fixed up for a test ride and, with the stem
raised up as high as it goes, it felt kind of low. It was
ok in the higher positions but in the drops it definatly
felt low.

I haven't been on a road bike in about 15 years and I had
two jackets on and a backpack so it might not be the best
test conditions.

Would it be worth the money to get a taller stem or is the
frame not big enough or am I just not used to it? It's an
old Schwinn LeTour by the way with a 25 inch frame if I
measured correctly.

Thanks.

Height, proportions, frame size, stem height, seat height-
lots of unknowns. It does sound like the bars are too low.
Your best bet is to go to a good bike shop and ask them what
you can do. And buy from them after picking their brains!!!

Hopefully the Le Tour doesn't have an unusual stem. If it is
normal, look for a Nitto Technomic stem to raise them up.

lickbike.comi1173050.htmOpen ↗

It is also available in a 25.4 mm diameter. And a local bike
shop should be able to order you one easily. They will
measure your bars to make sure that you get the right one.

I am in the process of using a new-to-me bike, and put a
tall stem on. Over the last month I have been dropping it
down bit by bit as I get used to the bike. Always better to
have some extra stem inside the steerer tube than be
uncomfortable because the handlebars are too low.

"Dan Daniel" <[email hidden]> wrote

Quoted message said:

Hopefully the Le Tour doesn't have an unusual stem. If
it is normal, look for a Nitto Technomic stem to raise
them up.

Unfortunately, it probably is a non-standard size stem.

On 11 Mar 2004 18:41:44 -0800, [email hidden] (Chris

Hansen) said:

How high should the handlebars on a road bike be? I just
took one I've

It should be as high as necessary for you to be comfortable
for the length of rides that you do.

Too high, and too much of your weight ends up on your butt,
hurting that area. If it's really excessively high, you'll
catch a lot of wind resistance, slowing you down.

Too low, and too much weight on hands/arms/shoulders, neck
must crane up too much to see down the road, and if it's
really excessively low, your hamstrings will complain.

Quoted message said:

fixed up for a test ride and, with the stem raised up as
high as it goes, it felt kind of low. It was ok in the
higher positions but in the drops it definatly felt low.

It should feel low in the drops. Down in the drops is where
you grip when you want an extra-aerodynamic position, or
when you really want to yank on those bars while pedalling
very hard, as while sprinting.

Most people cruise on the hoods (the brake lever brackets).

Quoted message said:

I haven't been on a road bike in about 15 years and I had
two jackets on and a backpack so it might not be the best
test conditions.

The weight of the backpack will contribute to
hand/arm/shoulder pain.

Quoted message said:

Would it be worth the money to get a taller stem or is the
frame not big enough or am I just not used to it? It's an
old Schwinn LeTour by the way with a 25 inch frame if I
measured correctly.

Try any of the many online fit calculators and guides to
determine if it fits. If you want a taller stem, they're not
expensive.
--
Rick Onanian

"Chris Hansen" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hello,

How high should the handlebars on a road bike be? ... It's
an old Schwinn LeTour by the way with a 25 inch frame if I
measured correctly.

I'll give you an answer than is MUCH too specific, since it
applies to me, not to you.

I've got an old Schwinn Super LeTour, 25 inch frame, and
I'm 6'3". I ride with my hands on the brake hoods more
often than in the drops. The top of the saddle is 43 inches
off the ground. The top of the handbars are 39 inches off
the ground.

Again, I can't say if this is right for YOU or not, but
I thought you might like a very specific answer to
compare against.

"Chris Hansen" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hello,

How high should the handlebars on a road bike be? I just
took one I've fixed up for a test ride and, with the stem
raised up as high as it goes, it felt kind of low. It was
ok in the higher positions but in the drops it definatly
felt low.

I haven't been on a road bike in about 15 years and I had
two jackets on and a backpack so it might not be the best
test conditions.

Would it be worth the money to get a taller stem or is the
frame not big enough or am I just not used to it? It's an
old Schwinn LeTour by the way with a 25 inch frame if I
measured correctly.

Thanks.

What's your purpose? Do you want to be comfortable on the
tops and able to use the drops without pain on windy days?
Try these links: sheldonbrown.comhandsup.htmlOpen ↗
rivendellbicycles.comrr stems.htmlOpen ↗
rivendellbicycles.comrr raisestem.htmlOpen ↗

Mike Kruger said:

"Chris Hansen" <[email hidden]> wrote in
message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hello,

How high should the handlebars on a road bike be? ... It's
an old Schwinn LeTour by the way with a 25 inch frame if I
measured correctly.

I'll give you an answer than is MUCH too specific, since
it applies to me, not to you.

I've got an old Schwinn Super LeTour, 25 inch frame, and
I'm 6'3". I ride with my hands on the brake hoods more
often than in the drops. The top of the saddle is 43
inches off the ground. The top of the handbars are 39
inches off the ground.

Again, I can't say if this is right for YOU or not, but I
thought you might like a very specific answer to compare
against.

My touring bike has handlebars about level, or even
slightly higher than the seat level. My "joy bike" (a Trek
2000) has the handlebars about an inch and a half below the
level of the seat.

Most all "racing bike" configurations I see have the drop
bar tops at least a good inch below the seat level.

Of course the deepness of the handlebar drop will add
complication to where the bar gets set. My touring bike
drops are actually deeper than the joy bike ones.

I might add that I've got drop bar ends on my MTB as well,
that are *very* deep. The bar top is slightly above the seat
level, but when I'm in the drops, I'm lower than on either
of my road bikes. I'd actually opt for shallower drops on
this bike, but, not much of a selection available.

SMH

"Mike Jacoubowsky" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

How high should the handlebars on a road bike be? I just
took one I've fixed up for a test ride and, with the
stem raised up as high as it goes, it felt kind of low.
It was ok in the higher positions but in the drops it
definatly felt low.

On modern road bikes, people tend to spend far less time
in the drops than they used to back in the day. Why?
Because shifting is easier from the top of the hoods, and
the brakes are so much better that you no longer need a
death grip on the levers, so you don't have to go to the
drops to get enough power to stop.

If it felt *good* in the higher positions, that would be
fine. But if it only feels "ok" then I'd question if
you're set up correctly. How tall are you, and how much
drop from the top of the stem to the top of the bars on
your old Schwinn vs the one you test-rode?

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
chainreactionbicycles.comchainreactionbicycles.comOpen ↗

I am aware of that trend and it is one I don't like. One has
much better stability on the drops than on the top of the
bar. Try control a bike in Newfoundland's crosswinds while
riding on the tops: unless you get the exceptionnally calm
day, it's almost impossible.

As for the hoods, they are even more forward than the drops,
which means I would need a zero-reach stem to be
comfortable. But more importantly, what happens when you hit
10-12 potholes? If the hands slip a bit while riding in the
drops, no problem: you won't loose control. But if the hands
slip a bit while riding on the tops or especially in the
hoods, what happens next? I'd hate to think about
it...

Since the original poster has a 25" frame, I think he should
look for a taller stem (and maybe one with a shorter reach).
If it's a traditional quill (i.e. you can slide the stem up
and down), it's always possible to place it lower (ample
room in the headtube), but it allows more room to adjust
according to weather patterns. And if it's a threadless
system, spacers could be placed to adjust it if necessary.

Michel Gagnon

On 20 Mar 2004 17:40:46 -0800, [email hidden] (Michel Gagnon)

Quoted message said:

As for the hoods, they are even more forward than the
drops, which means I would need a zero-reach stem to be
comfortable. But more importantly, what happens when you
hit 10-12 potholes? If the hands slip a bit while riding in
the drops, no problem: you won't loose control. But if the
hands slip a bit while riding on the tops or especially in
the hoods, what happens next? I'd hate to think about
it...

The point where people tend to ride on the hoods are not in
front of the most forward point of the drops in most bars.
By the time you factor in leaning forward, the hoods are
almost always more convenient to the rider than the drops.

Yes, in high winds drops, if the handle bars are well
fitted, are more stable. You effectively use two points of
contact on the bars - hands and arms - to brace the bars.

OTOH, I've been riding in winds on both singles and tandems
for years. There have been times that I couldn't reach for
the bottle on a ride until I stopped (my first Camelback was
purchased about ten minutes after a tandem ride on the
Seagull Century). But I've never had a problem riding on the
hoods. Ever. In 30 plus years, never. And slipping would
require removal of my thumbs...

Curtis L. Russell Odenton, MD (USA) Just someone on
two wheels...

Curtis L. Russell said:

On 20 Mar 2004 17:40:46 -0800, [email hidden]

(Michel Gagnon) said:

As for the hoods, they are even more forward than the
drops, which means I would need a zero-reach stem to be
comfortable. But more importantly, what happens when you
hit 10-12 potholes? If the hands slip a bit while riding
in the drops, no problem: you won't loose control. But if
the hands slip a bit while riding on the tops or
especially in the hoods, what happens next? I'd hate to
think about
it...

The idea of this may seem scary, but I've found it's a
problem. The hoods are turned up enough at the end to keep
your hands from slipping off. The ultimate proof was when I
went over the bars while riding on the hoods, after hitting
a water bar on a trail.

Quoted message said:

The point where people tend to ride on the hoods are not
in front of the most forward point of the drops in most
bars. By the time you factor in leaning forward, the
hoods are almost always more convenient to the rider than
the drops.

Yes, in high winds drops, if the handle bars are well
fitted, are more stable. You effectively use two points of
contact on the bars - hands and arms - to brace the bars.

OTOH, I've been riding in winds on both singles and
tandems for years. There have been times that I couldn't
reach for the bottle on a ride until I stopped (my first
Camelback was purchased about ten minutes after a tandem
ride on the Seagull Century). But I've never had a problem
riding on the hoods. Ever. In 30 plus years, never. And
slipping would require removal of my thumbs...

I don't see where there's any difference. I use the drops
when it's windy, but only because it's more aerodynamic --
both from the front, and the side -- because of the lower
profile. The biggest problem I have in wind (besides the
extra effort it requires) is my front wheel being buffeted
by gusts from the side. I'm sure these new "aero" wheels
cost more in sidewinds than they make up for otherwise.

Matt O.

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

...

Quoted message said:

I don't see where there's any difference. I use the drops
when it's windy, but only because it's more aerodynamic --
both from the front, and the side --

From the side, you have the same cross sectional area facing
the wind whether you're sitting up straight or bent over on
the drops/aero bars. Being in the drops does lower your CG a
bit, though, which might help your stability somewhat.

....

--
Remove the ns_ from if replying by e-mail (but keep posts in
the newsgroups if possible).

On Mon, 22 Mar 2004 09:01:05 -0500, Curtis L. Russell

from The Maryland Russells said:

The point where people tend to ride on the hoods are not in
front of the most forward point of the drops in most bars.
By the time you factor in leaning forward, the hoods are
almost always more convenient to the rider than the drops.

I know the wind tunnel doesn't bear it out, but I "feel"
more aero on the hoods than in the drops. I think it's
because I like to get my arms out in front of me rather than
tucking my elbows in. One thing I am going to work on this
summer is riding more in the drops. And getting rid of my
dangly belly.
--
[email hidden]
A very small object - Its center.
25

Kevan Smith said:

I know the wind tunnel doesn't bear it out, but I "feel"
more aero on the hoods than in the drops. I think it's
because I like to get my arms out in front of me rather
than tucking my elbows in. One thing I am going to work on
this summer is riding more in the drops. And getting rid of
my dangly belly.

When you're on the hoods or on aerobars, it's an aerobelly.
Only in the drops does it become dangly.
--
Rick Onanian

On Mon, 22 Mar 2004 18:05:34 GMT, "Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

I don't see where there's any difference. I use the drops
when it's windy, but only because it's more aerodynamic --
both from the front, and the side -- because of the lower
profile. The biggest problem I have in wind (besides the
extra effort it requires) is my front wheel being buffeted
by gusts from the side. I'm sure these new "aero" wheels
cost more in sidewinds than they make up for otherwise.

Matt O.

You seem to be merging posts because your first reply is to
his point, the second, sort of, to mine. In any event, there
is a difference when captaining a tandem in the wind. Riding
on the drops with your forearms braced against the upper
bend can make a difference. It requires deep bends to do and
it applies primarily to days like you have in Kansas or on
Maryland's Eastern Shore, where the winds can be heavy,
constant and all day. OTOH, I've never found it necessary,
only occasionally convenient and a change of pace.

Reaching for a water bottle OTOOH can be an adventure,
captaining against a cross wind on the tandem.

Curtis L. Russell Odenton, MD (USA) Just someone on
two wheels...