high powered LED's

TimC said:

I was thinking of going the flourescent route at some stage.

I think the main problem with fluorescent for a bike light is that they have low surface brightness compared with LEDs, filaments, and discharge lamps. In order to get any sort of beam throw, you need really big optics.

Regards,

Suzy

On 2006-01-05, suzyj (aka Bruce)
was almost, but not quite, entirely unlike tea:

Quoted message said:

TimC said:

I was thinking of going the flourescent route at some stage.

I think the main problem with fluorescent for a bike light is that they
have low surface brightness compared with LEDs, filaments, and discharge
lamps. In order to get any sort of beam throw, you need really big
optics.

Will a Smidgt^WSchmidght^WSchmiht^W1.2M camera do?

Heh heh heh.

--
TimC
Press any key to continue, any other key to abort
-- thrillbert's code

In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden]
says...

Quoted message said:

This is my latest twin 5 watt Luxeon setup. I've also just started using
a Litium Polymer battery which is super light. I could never go back to
incandescent lamps.

http://www.hyperactive.oz.nf/Lights3/Luxeon3.htm

Do I spy a divider section from a BAC workbench? (The aluminium plate
with the bent down edge)

Cheers, Ray

Poiter said:

Marty said:

This is my latest twin 5 watt Luxeon setup. I've also just started
using
a Litium Polymer battery which is super light. I could never go back
to
incandescent lamps.

http://www.hyperactive.oz.nf/Lights3/Luxeon3.htm

Marty

What does the extra thumb shifter do?

It's the lockout for the shockies. Stiffens 'em up for long climbs so
you don't bounce.

Quoted message said:

A 3watt luxeon is enuff for a nightime Audax ride and runs up to 18
hours on 3 x "C" cell alkalines with no electronics require (very
KISS).
http://users.cyberone.com.au/heal/LUXEONLEDS.htm

Pete

ghostgum said:

Marty said:

This is my latest twin 5 watt Luxeon setup. I've also just started
using
a Litium Polymer battery which is super light. I could never go back
to
incandescent lamps.

http://www.hyperactive.oz.nf/Lights3/Luxeon3.htm

Marty

Someone else also uses a Tweety battery!
I use a 20W halogen which uses a little too much power.
On one of my bikes this runs off a 3.5AH NiMH Tweety battery
which gives 2 hours of running time, and I only need 0.5 hours
per day. If I was commuting further, I would probably try a
3W+ LED.

If you really want efficiency, you could try High Intensity Discharge
(arc) lamps.

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1332
http://www.halcyon.net/lights/hid-faq.shtml
No idea whether these could handle the vibration of being mounted
on a bike.

For an efficiency table:
http://lists.meer.net/pipermail/junk-l/2005-August/000208.html
http://www.answers.com/topic/incandescent-light-bulb
http://www.aps.com/images/pdf/Lighting.pdf

In general the efficiency order is, Incandescent < LED < Fluorescent
< Discharge. There is overlap between these classes.

The advantages of the LEDs is ruggedness.

suzyj said:

You've clearly had your head in a bucket the last few years.

True, but it's because I'm so hideously ugly that wearing it is the
only way I can get other people to ride with me. As long as I secure
it to keep the eye holes from moving, it's pretty safe.

I'm looking into more aero buckets at the moment to improve my
performance.

Quoted message said:

There are
heaps of high wattage LEDs aavailable now that outshine all but the
brightest halogen lamps.

I see the confusion. Technically a LED is a single light-emitting diode,
and they don't greatly increase in power consumption, just get more
efficient and brighter over time, and get better optics (hence a narrower
beam).

Obviously you can put lots of them together and get high power consumption
and much greater brightness, but the result is a "high-power lamp using
LEDs", not a "high-power LED" :-)

--
Home page: http://members.westnet.com.au/mvw

Ray said:

In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden]
says...

Quoted message said:

This is my latest twin 5 watt Luxeon setup. I've also just started using
a Litium Polymer battery which is super light. I could never go back to
incandescent lamps.

http://www.hyperactive.oz.nf/Lights3/Luxeon3.htm

Do I spy a divider section from a BAC workbench? (The aluminium plate
with the bent down edge)

Cheers, Ray

My god!
You do have sharp eyes.

I would have preferred something a bit thicker but I couldn't find
anything and it was the right size and it was spare and .....

Marty

Michael Warner said:

suzyj said:

You've clearly had your head in a bucket the last few years.

True, but it's because I'm so hideously ugly that wearing it is the
only way I can get other people to ride with me. As long as I secure
it to keep the eye holes from moving, it's pretty safe.

I'm looking into more aero buckets at the moment to improve my
performance.

Quoted message said:

There are
heaps of high wattage LEDs aavailable now that outshine all but the
brightest halogen lamps.

I see the confusion. Technically a LED is a single light-emitting diode,
and they don't greatly increase in power consumption, just get more
efficient and brighter over time, and get better optics (hence a narrower
beam).

Obviously you can put lots of them together and get high power consumption
and much greater brightness, but the result is a "high-power lamp using
LEDs", not a "high-power LED" :-)

Technically you may be correct. But the bottom line of cost, ruggedness,
brightness, beam shape and weight makes it ideal for me. I have tried
the others and high power is best for what I do. And besides, 1 watt IS
high power for a LED.

Michael Warner said:

I see the confusion. Technically a LED is a single light-emitting diode,
and they don't greatly increase in power consumption, just get more
efficient and brighter over time, and get better optics (hence a narrower
beam).

Obviously you can put lots of them together and get high power consumption
and much greater brightness, but the result is a "high-power lamp using
LEDs", not a "high-power LED" :-)

That depends on your point of view.
If it needs a heat sink, I'd call it high power.
The early LEDs were 20mA at 1.7V = 0.035W.
A modern high power Luxeon LED is 700mA at 6V = 5W and it needs
a heat sink (i.e. has to be attached to a metal object to dissipate
the heat). So you could put multiple lower power LEDs together,
but people are talking about using a single high power LED per light.

It appears you can now get a 7W LED flashlight
batteryspace.comindex.aspOpen ↗

--
Frank
[email hidden]
Drop DACKS to reply
"Michael Warner" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

suzyj said:

You've clearly had your head in a bucket the last few years.

True, but it's because I'm so hideously ugly that wearing it is the
only way I can get other people to ride with me. As long as I secure
it to keep the eye holes from moving, it's pretty safe.

I'm looking into more aero buckets at the moment to improve my
performance.

Quoted message said:

There are
heaps of high wattage LEDs aavailable now that outshine all but the
brightest halogen lamps.

I see the confusion. Technically a LED is a single light-emitting diode,
and they don't greatly increase in power consumption, just get more
efficient and brighter over time, and get better optics (hence a narrower
beam).

Obviously you can put lots of them together and get high power consumption
and much greater brightness, but the result is a "high-power lamp using
LEDs", not a "high-power LED" :-)

--
Home page: http://members.westnet.com.au/mvw

I recently got a Cateye HL - EL 510. Single high-power LED. Bright as a very
bright thing, lights up the road/path well enough for these tired old
peepers to see where I'm going very well. I've even used it for some
steady-paced, pretty easy off-road riding. I'm impressed with it.

me

Bleve said:

When we did the Wonth HPV GP, there was a floodlight around the footy
oval, and it was the most dangerous part of the course because of that
light. The dark sections were much safer as you could see things other
than the halo of the floodlight in the windscreen. Urgh ...

AH! so that's why you got rid of the windscreen
😉 :p 😉 😉 :p 😄

Poiter said:

A 3watt luxeon is enuff for a nightime Audax ride and runs up to 18 hours on 3 x "C" cell alkalines with no electronics require (very KISS).
users.cyberone.com.auLUXEONLEDS.htmOpen ↗

Pete

I also have made a 3 watt luxeon head light.
Agree that its "kiss" but added a voltage regulator to give less chance of early total failure and longer life before the LED starts to loose its oomph.

A Voltage regulator is available from (link)Oatley Electronics
oatleyelectronics.comk216.htmlOpen ↗
costs $5.90 and can be made easily by a novice with a soldering iron and using the kitchen table as a workshop.
For the weight weenies its a solid 8 grams.

I agonised for ages over what to build. Knew I wanted to go Luxeon but 3watt or 5watt? 3 watt will run off 3.70V @ 700mA for 65 lumens output or 3.90V @ 1000mA VDC @ for 80 lumens. That means a 6volt, 4 x 1.5v dry cell, 1 small 6v gell cell, or 4.8 volts from 4 x 1.2 volt ni-mh rechargables and all need the small regulator.
Other option is 5 watt which has totally different power needs and either a "large" DIY voltage regulator or an expensive puck and a 12 volt supply (cant find exact numbers ATM) so I went for the 3 watt and a Fraen Narrow Beam Lens. Works well for 2 x 35-40 km rides or 3.5 -4 hours. Could squeeze another night out of batts but no need. No complaints.
Being a typical "boy" I have started building a twin 3 watt system and this time will use 1 narrow beam lens for low beam and an eliptical lens in the vertical plane for high beam.
The 1 watt RED luxeon tail ( bloody unbelievably bright)running from 4 AAA rechargables will be finished when the jigsaw puzzle disappears from the kitchen table!

Be Seen

Hugh

ghostgum said:

That depends on your point of view.
If it needs a heat sink, I'd call it high power.
The early LEDs were 20mA at 1.7V = 0.035W.
A modern high power Luxeon LED is 700mA at 6V = 5W and it needs
a heat sink (i.e. has to be attached to a metal object to dissipate
the heat). So you could put multiple lower power LEDs together,
but people are talking about using a single high power LED per light.

It appears you can now get a 7W LED flashlight
batteryspace.comindex.aspOpen ↗

I am impressed with the output of this, 200 lumens vs the 120 lumen output of the 5w Luxeon. Strange that Luxeon dont have it listed on their website.
I think I'll stick to the 21W HID Stadium III which uses this globe for the 1850 lumen output. LED's seem to be great for being seen but it's good to see where you are going.

Geoff

warrwych said:

Bleve said:

When we did the Wonth HPV GP, there was a floodlight around the footy
oval, and it was the most dangerous part of the course because of that
light. The dark sections were much safer as you could see things
other
than the halo of the floodlight in the windscreen. Urgh ...

AH! so that's why you got rid of the windscreen

Yep. By the time I got in it for my second shift, I couldn't see out
of it except for a smudgey circle about 15cm in diameter. Made for
*very* interesting navigation ... bump - yep, that's the edge of the
road .... so we kicked it out after my second shift.

HughMann said:

Poiter said:

A 3watt luxeon is enuff for a nightime Audax ride and runs up to 18
hours on 3 x "C" cell alkalines with no electronics require (very
KISS).
http://users.cyberone.com.au/heal/LUXEONLEDS.htm

Pete

I also have made a 3 watt luxeon head light.
Agree that its "kiss" but added a voltage regulator to give less chance
of early total failure and longer life before the LED starts to loose
its oomph.

A Voltage regulator is available from (link)'Oatley Electronics'
(http://www.oatleyelectronics.com/kits/k216.html)
http://www.oatleyelectronics.com/kits/k216.html
costs $5.90 and can be made easily by a novice with a soldering iron
and using the kitchen table as a workshop.
For the weight weenies its a solid 8 grams.

I agonised for ages over what to build. Knew I wanted to go Luxeon but
3watt or 5watt? 3 watt will run off 3.70V @ 700mA for 65 lumens output
or 3.90V @ 1000mA VDC @ for 80 lumens. That means a 6volt, 4 x 1.5v
dry cell, 1 small 6v gell cell, or 4.8 volts from 4 x 1.2 volt ni-mh
rechargables and all need the small regulator.
Other option is 5 watt which has totally different power needs and
either a "large" DIY voltage regulator or an expensive puck and a 12
volt supply (cant find exact numbers ATM) so I went for the 3 watt and
a Fraen Narrow Beam Lens. Works well for 2 x 35-40 km rides or 3.5 -4
hours. Could squeeze another night out of batts but no need. No
complaints.
Being a typical "boy" I have started building a twin 3 watt system and
this time will use 1 narrow beam lens for low beam and an eliptical
lens in the vertical plane for high beam.
The 1 watt RED luxeon tail ( bloody unbelievably bright)running from 4
AAA rechargables will be finished when the jigsaw puzzle disappears
from the kitchen table!

Be Seen

Hugh

I tried running with a 1 watt red LED but found the light too strange,
like seeing everything in black and white. It really lights up anything
reflective though. It ran off two 1.5 volt AA cells in series.

Marty

geoffs said:

ghostgum said:

That depends on your point of view.
If it needs a heat sink, I'd call it high power.
The early LEDs were 20mA at 1.7V = 0.035W.
A modern high power Luxeon LED is 700mA at 6V = 5W and it needs
a heat sink (i.e. has to be attached to a metal object to dissipate
the heat). So you could put multiple lower power LEDs together,
but people are talking about using a single high power LED per light.

It appears you can now get a 7W LED flashlight
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2328

I am impressed with the output of this, 200 lumens vs the 120 lumen
output of the 5w Luxeon. Strange that Luxeon dont have it listed on
their website.
I think I'll stick to the 21W HID Stadium III which uses this 'globe'
(http://tinyurl.com/8qfyh) for the 1850 lumen output. LED's seem to be
great for being seen but it's good to see where you are going.

Geoff

My guess is that it's an overdriven 5 watt one and they've just
multiplied up the Lumens and then added a bit to say theirs is the
brightest in the world. I'd be skeptical of the claims unless I saw more
supporting evidence of their measurements. According to Luxeons data the
orange LEDs may be that bright but the white ones aren't.

I've seen HID lights and they're really impressive but I just feel more
secure with the robustness and reliability of the LEDs, maybe a HID with
an LED backup is the way to go.

Skeptical Marty

Bleve said:

When we did the Wonth HPV GP, there was a floodlight around the footy
oval, and it was the most dangerous part of the course because of that
light. The dark sections were much safer as you could see things other
than the halo of the floodlight in the windscreen. Urgh ...

Dude, the most dangerous part of that course was whereever you or Neil were riding!! hahaha 😄

hippy

hippy said:

Bleve said:

When we did the Wonth HPV GP, there was a floodlight around the footy
oval, and it was the most dangerous part of the course because of that
light. The dark sections were much safer as you could see things
other
than the halo of the floodlight in the windscreen. Urgh ...

Dude, the most dangerous part of that course was whereever you or Neil
were riding!! hahaha 😄

I wasn't Cpt Ramraider!

"Michael Warner" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I see the confusion. Technically a LED is a single light-emitting diode,
and they don't greatly increase in power consumption, just get more
efficient and brighter over time, and get better optics (hence a narrower
beam).

Obviously you can put lots of them together and get high power consumption
and much greater brightness, but the result is a "high-power lamp using
LEDs", not a "high-power LED" :-)

You mean like the Cateye HL-EL500, which uses 1 x LED and throws plenty of
light to ride by?

Marty said:

My guess is that it's an overdriven 5 watt one and they've just
multiplied up the Lumens and then added a bit to say theirs is the
brightest in the world. I'd be skeptical of the claims unless I saw more
supporting evidence of their measurements. According to Luxeons data the
orange LEDs may be that bright but the white ones aren't.

I've seen HID lights and they're really impressive but I just feel more
secure with the robustness and reliability of the LEDs, maybe a HID with
an LED backup is the way to go.

Skeptical Marty

We do have an LED as a backup for when I've forgotten to charge the battery. One thing that I have noticed though is that cars are much more prone top pulling out in front of when using the LED than the HID. With the LED car drivers know that it is a bike approaching whereas with the HID they must think its a motorbike and just wait until we are past.
Anyone else with this experience or is it just us?

The 21w HID globe is only rated at 350hrs MTBF on the Welch Allyn site. The 10w has a 1000hr rating.
So I had better start saving up for the $239USD for a new globe. Bugger!

I wonder how long the Luxeon would last at 7w?

I was reading on the the Surefire site and elsewhere that green is the colour that the human eye is most receptive to. Has anyone tried the green luxeon stars which emit 160lumens vs the 120 for white?

Cheers

Geoff