forusenet said:I wasn't aware of cleats which allow lateral movement. I will go with the Red Look cleats. Thanks..
The specs for the shoe indicate "Look compatible adapter plates included". Any idea what this adaptor is for? Should i be looking for a shoe with wouldn't need an adaptor to be used with LOOK cleats?
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[font=Times New Roman]I must agree with the LOOK pedal/cleat option also. I'm just bedding in a new pair of LOOK Carbon KEO's. They have good float (Toe in and out) for those who like a bit of freedom, such as myself. The only negative is the cleat block under my shoes, they’re a little soft and get chewed up by the road surface when walking, but, the important parts are well hidden for protection.[/font]
[font=Times New Roman]I did have a creaking noise from the left pedals when I was climbing in the saddle. It seemed that I needed to allow for a little more float (Toe out) than first anticipated as I was applying pressure at it’s limit of movement.[/font]
[font=Times New Roman]A little tip on alignment. Once you've found your approximate shoe alignment (I have a few degrees of toe-out and heel in) flip the bike up-side-down, level out the cranks with the shoes fitted, with one shoe gently push the heel towards the crank (Takes the float out of the equation) and measure with a ruler from a known point on the heel to the frame’s bottom bracket. Do this on each side and record the difference. Then adjust so both are even….I have small screws on the carbon heel block of my shoes, ergo a fixed position on each shoe to measure from. Even though I was fitted-out at the shop, the difference was 8mm (A few degrees). Now they are exactly the same and with no chance of injury. DONT MEASURE TO THE CRANK ARMS as these are not even. You need to measure to the frame or the bottom bracket bearings...so you'll need to slide your ruler through a gap in the chainrings. Take your time and it will be smicko..cool?![/font]
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