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Help with chain tension on a single speed conversion.

Started by eric · · Last activity · 11 posts · 660 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
15 August 2004
Last activity
17 August 2004
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eric
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  1. I've "converted" a old road bike into a single speed.

    What I've done:

    Grind off all hangers on my frame. (bad idea in hindsight)
    took off all brakes and derailleurs
    took off large chainring.
    I kept the old 6sp chain and freewheel on the rear wheel.

    Its quite light looks quite good as is. However, I cannot get the
    chain to stop "seizing up". I can pedel for a few seconds, and it
    would seize. I can pedel backward for a quarter turn and I'll be ok
    again.

    I find that I cannot tighten the QR tight enough to prevent the wheel
    from moving forward a little bit during hard pedelling. This frame
    has a horizontal dropout. (Older type, wheel moves backwards into drop
    out.

    I believe the chain is seizing due to chain tension. However, I can't
    simply add something like a Surly Singulator or even an old derailleur
    to remedy this.

    Any ideas?

  2. "eric" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    I've "converted" a old road bike into a single speed.

    What I've done:

    Grind off all hangers on my frame. (bad idea in hindsight)
    took off all brakes and derailleurs
    took off large chainring.
    I kept the old 6sp chain and freewheel on the rear wheel.

    Its quite light looks quite good as is. However, I cannot get the
    chain to stop "seizing up". I can pedel for a few seconds, and it
    would seize. I can pedel backward for a quarter turn and I'll be ok
    again.

    I find that I cannot tighten the QR tight enough to prevent the wheel
    from moving forward a little bit during hard pedelling. This frame
    has a horizontal dropout. (Older type, wheel moves backwards into drop
    out.

    I believe the chain is seizing due to chain tension. However, I can't
    simply add something like a Surly Singulator or even an old derailleur
    to remedy this.

    Any ideas?

    Sounds like the QR is not clamping onto the dropout. How close is the
    end of the axle to the outer face of the dropout?

    PH

  3. Check that you're using an old style all-steel quick release, and not one of
    the modern aluminium abortions that is incapable of clamping tightly enough.

    Nick

    "eric" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    I've "converted" a old road bike into a single speed.

    [snip]

    I find that I cannot tighten the QR tight enough to prevent the wheel
    from moving forward a little bit during hard pedelling. This frame
    has a horizontal dropout. (Older type, wheel moves backwards into drop
    out.

  4. eric <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    I've "converted" a old road bike into a single speed.

    What I've done:

    Grind off all hangers on my frame. (bad idea in hindsight)
    took off all brakes and derailleurs
    took off large chainring.
    I kept the old 6sp chain and freewheel on the rear wheel.

    Its quite light looks quite good as is. However, I cannot get the
    chain to stop "seizing up". I can pedel for a few seconds, and it
    would seize. I can pedel backward for a quarter turn and I'll be ok
    again.

    I find that I cannot tighten the QR tight enough to prevent the wheel
    from moving forward a little bit during hard pedelling. This frame
    has a horizontal dropout. (Older type, wheel moves backwards into drop
    out.

    I believe the chain is seizing due to chain tension. However, I can't
    simply add something like a Surly Singulator or even an old derailleur
    to remedy this.


    Your diagnosis sounds very likely.

    You may be trying to apply too much tension. What happens if you
    reduce the chain tension a bit? Unless everything is perfectly
    aligned chain tension will vary a bit on full rotation so you need to
    set it allowing for this. About a half inch "slack" movement at the
    tightest spot is what I would go for.

    If your QR is moving due to excess tension then that is a "good thing"
    as the alternative is a snapped chain.

    Is your freewheel well aligned? Multiple freewheels (at least the
    ones I use) are often a bit off-centre (spin the freewheel and see if
    the sprockets wobble in relation to the wheel). This could cause
    enough movement for a tight spot. If so you could buy a new single
    speed freewheel and try that.

    Is your chainring round and true? Again, this might cause a tight
    spot if it is not.

    You ~could~ add a derailleur (one that doesn't need a hanger) or a
    chain tensioner (chain stay attachment) - if I read right you are
    still using your freewheel, so there is no imperative not to. That
    would somewhat defeat the object though.

    Andrew Webster

  5. Yeah, get a quality QR or go to bolt-on hubs. This was happening on a friend's recent SS conversion and a stronger QR did the trick.

    Good luck,
    Jeremy

    Nick Payne said:

    Check that you're using an old style all-steel quick release, and not one of
    the modern aluminium abortions that is incapable of clamping tightly enough.

    Nick

    "eric" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    I've "converted" a old road bike into a single speed.

    [snip]

    I find that I cannot tighten the QR tight enough to prevent the wheel
    from moving forward a little bit during hard pedelling. This frame
    has a horizontal dropout. (Older type, wheel moves backwards into drop
    out.

  6. jtill <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    Yeah, get a quality QR or go to bolt-on hubs. This was happening on a
    friend's recent SS conversion and a stronger QR did the trick.

    Good luck,
    Jeremy

    Nick Payne said:

    Check that you're using an old style all-steel quick release, and not
    one of
    the modern aluminium abortions that is incapable of clamping tightly
    enough.

    Nick

    But the OP says that his chain seizes up. A better QR won't solve
    that. Also, if the QR didn't slip before conversion, why should it
    now?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    "eric" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    I've "converted" a old road bike into a single speed.

    [snip]

    I find that I cannot tighten the QR tight enough to prevent the


    wheel

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    from moving forward a little bit during hard pedelling. This frame
    has a horizontal dropout. (Older type, wheel moves backwards into


    drop

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    out.

  7. Andrew Webster wrote in message
    <[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:


    But the OP says that his chain seizes up. A better QR won't solve
    that. Also, if the QR didn't slip before conversion, why should it
    now?

    When one is constrained to one gear, one must push harder to compensate for
    the lack of availability of a lower gear. The chain pulls the hub forward
    in the slots because the pulling force upon the chain is greater and so is
    to overcome the friction available at the locknut.

    The correct answer may be to tighten the QR, change to solid spindle, change
    to a lower gear or change rear ends to rear facing. I have never found the
    last option necessary after changing to solid spindle and using an
    engineers spanner.

    Trevor

  8. Trevor Jeffrey said:

    Andrew Webster wrote in message
    <[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:


    But the OP says that his chain seizes up. A better QR won't solve
    that. Also, if the QR didn't slip before conversion, why should it
    now?

    When one is constrained to one gear, one must push harder to compensate for
    the lack of availability of a lower gear. The chain pulls the hub forward
    in the slots because the pulling force upon the chain is greater and so is
    to overcome the friction available at the locknut.


    Nice try. Thanks for playing.
    The higher the gear, the less tension in the chain.
    You got fooled because it is harder to pedal, but it is
    easier on the chain.

  9. Jim Smith wrote in message <[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    Trevor Jeffrey said:

    Andrew Webster wrote in message
    <[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:


    But the OP says that his chain seizes up. A better QR won't solve
    that. Also, if the QR didn't slip before conversion, why should it
    now?

    When one is constrained to one gear, one must push harder to compensate


    for

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    the lack of availability of a lower gear. The chain pulls the hub


    forward

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    in the slots because the pulling force upon the chain is greater and so


    is

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    to overcome the friction available at the locknut.


    Nice try. Thanks for playing.
    The higher the gear, the less tension in the chain.
    You got fooled because it is harder to pedal, but it is
    easier on the chain.


    Maximum tension within the chain is determined by pedal force and front
    sprocket size alone and has nothing to do with gear ratio. Acceleration is
    affected by gear ratio. So for a high gear ratio the bicycle accelerates
    more slowly yet the force upon the pedals is usually increased, which is why
    the axle slips.

    Trevor

  10. Andrew Webster wrote in message

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    But the OP says that his chain seizes up. A better QR won't solve
    that. Also, if the QR didn't slip before conversion, why should it
    now?

    Might be that his bike had old-style thin dropouts with a clamp on
    derailer hanger. Conversions involving removal of such adaptor claws
    sometimes do require shorting the protrusion of the axle on the right side.

    Trevor Jeffrey said:
    Quoted message said:

    When one is constrained to one gear, one must push harder to compensate for
    the lack of availability of a lower gear. The chain pulls the hub forward
    in the slots because the pulling force upon the chain is greater and so is
    to overcome the friction available at the locknut.

    Jim Smith wrote

    Quoted message said:


    Nice try. Thanks for playing.
    The higher the gear, the less tension in the chain.
    You got fooled because it is harder to pedal, but it is
    easier on the chain.

    That's a bit of an oversimplification.

    For a given amount of pedal force, chain tension is inversely
    proportional to the size of the chainring. (Bigger chainring/higher
    gear=less tension)

    How ever, for a given amount of bicycle driving force at the tire, chain
    tension will be inversely proportional to the size of the rear sprocket.
    (Smaller sprocket/higher gear=more tension.)

    Sheldon "Maths" Brown
    +-------------------------------------------------+
    | My mother would have been 90 years old today |
    | Some of my her paintings may be seen at: |
    | http://sheldonbrown.com/joyce |
    +-------------------------------------------------+
    Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
    Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
    http://harriscyclery.com
    Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

  11. Sheldon Brown said:

    Andrew Webster wrote in message

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    >But the OP says that his chain seizes up. A better QR won't solve
    >that. Also, if the QR didn't slip before conversion, why should it
    >now?

    Might be that his bike had old-style thin dropouts with a clamp on
    derailer hanger. Conversions involving removal of such adaptor claws
    sometimes do require shorting the protrusion of the axle on the right
    side.

    Trevor Jeffrey said:
    Quoted message said:

    When one is constrained to one gear, one must push harder to compensate for
    the lack of availability of a lower gear. The chain pulls the hub forward
    in the slots because the pulling force upon the chain is greater and so is
    to overcome the friction available at the locknut.

    Jim Smith wrote

    Quoted message said:

    Nice try. Thanks for playing.
    The higher the gear, the less tension in the chain.
    You got fooled because it is harder to pedal, but it is
    easier on the chain.

    That's a bit of an oversimplification.

    For a given amount of pedal force, chain tension is inversely
    proportional to the size of the chainring. (Bigger chainring/higher
    gear=less tension)

    How ever, for a given amount of bicycle driving force at the tire,
    chain tension will be inversely proportional to the size of the rear
    sprocket. (Smaller sprocket/higher gear=more tension.)


    Yep. I was just thinking about the chainrings, forgot about the sprokets.
    That'll teach me to be hasty.

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