I just purchased a replacement clamp on Shimano Ultegra front derailleur (triple). I have adjusted the height of the derailleur to as close to the teeth of the outside chainring as possible. I have adjusted the high and low limit screws as per the instructions. I have set the location/rotation of the derailleur so that the cage is parallel to the outside chainring.
My problem is that even with the cable tight, I cannot get the front derailleur to shift properly into the outside chainring. I can get it to shift into the outside chainring, but when I put the chain on the rear cassette into the smallest cog, there's rubbing on the outside of the derailleur. The only way I've been able to fix this is by using a Park 4th Hand Brake Tool to tighten the cable while I push the derailleur into a non-rubbing position while the chain is on the outside chainring (in the front) and the smallest cog (in the back). This appears to work -- I can shift into all three chainrings and rear cassette combinations with only minor chain rub.
Should I just use this technique, or is there an easier way to do this? It seems that I should not have this trouble, but every time I replace the cables/housings for the front derailleur, I seem to have the same trouble and wind up using the same jury-rigging technique.
Should I just use this technique, or is there an easier way to do this? It seems that I should not have this trouble, but every time I replace the cables/housings for the front derailleur, I seem to have the same trouble and wind up using the same jury-rigging technique.
-- Bob
Are you saying that you cannot get enough cable tension by using the barrel adjuster on the downtube cable stop?
I just purchased a replacement clamp on Shimano Ultegra front derailleur (triple). I have adjusted the height of the derailleur to as close to the teeth of the outside chainring as possible. I have adjusted the high and low limit screws as per the instructions. I have set the location/rotation of the derailleur so that the cage is parallel to the outside chainring.
My problem is that even with the cable tight, I cannot get the front derailleur to shift properly into the outside chainring. I can get it to shift into the outside chainring, but when I put the chain on the rear cassette into the smallest cog, there's rubbing on the outside of the derailleur. The only way I've been able to fix this is by using a Park 4th Hand Brake Tool to tighten the cable while I push the derailleur into a non-rubbing position while the chain is on the outside chainring (in the front) and the smallest cog (in the back). This appears to work -- I can shift into all three chainrings and rear cassette combinations with only minor chain rub.
Should I just use this technique, or is there an easier way to do this? It seems that I should not have this trouble, but every time I replace the cables/housings for the front derailleur, I seem to have the same trouble and wind up using the same jury-rigging technique.
-- Bob
When in biggest cog and small ring, the chain should be very, very close to the inner cage plate of the FD...if not, then the FD won't travel far enough to not have chain rub when in big ring and smallest cog. shimano FD depend absolutely on starting position...If that is not right, it won't work well.
Should I just use this technique, or is there an easier way to do this? It seems that I should not have this trouble, but every time I replace the cables/housings for the front derailleur, I seem to have the same trouble and wind up using the same jury-rigging technique.
-- Bob
Are you saying that you cannot get enough cable tension by using the barrel adjuster on the downtube cable stop?
Leland
Yes, although I can try adjusting the barrel adjuster again tonight.
I just purchased a replacement clamp on Shimano Ultegra front derailleur (triple). I have adjusted the height of the derailleur to as close to the teeth of the outside chainring as possible. I have adjusted the high and low limit screws as per the instructions. I have set the location/rotation of the derailleur so that the cage is parallel to the outside chainring.
My problem is that even with the cable tight, I cannot get the front derailleur to shift properly into the outside chainring. I can get it to shift into the outside chainring, but when I put the chain on the rear cassette into the smallest cog, there's rubbing on the outside of the derailleur. The only way I've been able to fix this is by using a Park 4th Hand Brake Tool to tighten the cable while I push the derailleur into a non-rubbing position while the chain is on the outside chainring (in the front) and the smallest cog (in the back). This appears to work -- I can shift into all three chainrings and rear cassette combinations with only minor chain rub.
Should I just use this technique, or is there an easier way to do this? It seems that I should not have this trouble, but every time I replace the cables/housings for the front derailleur, I seem to have the same trouble and wind up using the same jury-rigging technique.
-- Bob
When in biggest cog and small ring, the chain should be very, very close to the inner cage plate of the FD...if not, then the FD won't travel far enough to not have chain rub when in big ring and smallest cog. shimano FD depend absolutely on starting position...If that is not right, it won't work well.
Thanks. I believe the chain is very close to the inner cage plate when in the biggest cog and smallest ring, but I'll check again tonight.
Should I just use this technique, or is there an easier way to do this? It seems that I should not have this trouble, but every time I replace the cables/housings for the front derailleur, I seem to have the same trouble and wind up using the same jury-rigging technique.
-- Bob
Are you saying that you cannot get enough cable tension by using the barrel adjuster on the downtube cable stop?
Leland
Yes, although I can try adjusting the barrel adjuster again tonight.
-- Bob in CT
Remember tightening the cable with the BA moves the FD and changes the start position. It will help to make for clearance in big ring, small cog but can also result in chain rub in small ring, biggest cog. The 'book' from shimano says the clearance should 0.0-0.5mm-that's is really touching, chain to cage clearance in small ring and big cog.