Help: Need Suggestions for a Bike

Quoted message said:

I am looking for a Bike that has the following features:

Shock Forks & Seat Post- preferable adjustable
Larger Size Balloon type Tires
No Low racing style handle bars,
but higher straight style with bar ends
Reputable Bike Mfg.
Lighter weight- in area 40 #
Speed range in area of 7 to 21

Most major manufacturers makessuch a bike. It's called a comfort bike,
here's Trek's versions:

http://www2.trekbikes.com/Bikes/City_Bike_Path/Comfort/Index.php

I'd see what brand your LBS sells and take one for a spin. You'd need
the bar ends added.

Rich

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I am looking for a Bike that has the following features:

Shock Forks & Seat Post- preferable adjustable
Larger Size Balloon type Tires
No Low racing style handle bars,
but higher straight style with bar ends
Reputable Bike Mfg.
Lighter weight- in area 40 #
Speed range in area of 7 to 21

I do not want to go the expense of a special build bike
I do not want a single or 3 speed model
I do not want a trail bike with rear shock suspension
I do not want a Gel Seat
I do not want a Recumbent

Bike for riding on City Streets , sidewalk or park about 10 to 20
miles per ride for about 5 days a week , (also bike will seldom be
used on dirt or gravel roads )

Price Range $500 to $1500.

I hope you will not consider me to be too close minded and not
knowledgeable due to the many specific aspects of my request-
somewhat true- however,
I would appreciate any comments on Specific Manufacturers & Model
Names of Bikes with a majority of the specifics I am seeking.

I would like to narrow the field and concentrate on specific model
bikes for trial rides. .
Your preferred model bikes or comments are appreciated.

Thanks

Cody

Specialized Globe

codyraymond said:

Bike for riding on City Streets , sidewalk or park about 10 to 20 miles
per ride for about 5 days a week

then why do you need shocks front and rear? Because everybody else does?

You need a rigid hybrid or flat bar road bike--you say you don't like low
racing style handlebars, but they don't have to be low when in that style.
You'll be imminently more comfortable on drop bars than straight, if
they're even with the saddle or higher.

Try an Novara Randonee at REI if you've got one nearby--it's a venerable
touring bike, and can be set up to be very comfortable. About $800.

Also forget the "balloon tires"--it's not going to make your ride in more
comfy--try something in a moderate width that's comfy and fast rolling:
1.5" for 26" wheels or maybe a 32mm for a 700c wheel.

Sounds like you really need to go to a bike shop and hang out and gab a
bit--your requests mirror a lot of newcomer myths and mistakes. Not trying
to be critical at all, but I'd rather you got a bike that's actually going
to be comfortable rather than one that's simply shaped like something your
brain thinks is going to be cushy--but at the end of the day is abusive to
your body.

😉

BobT said:

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I am looking for a Bike that has the following features:

Shock Forks & Seat Post- preferable adjustable Larger Size Balloon type
Tires
No Low racing style handle bars,
but higher straight style with bar ends Reputable Bike Mfg.
Lighter weight- in area 40 #
Speed range in area of 7 to 21

I do not want to go the expense of a special build bike I do not want a
single or 3 speed model I do not want a trail bike with rear shock
suspension I do not want a Gel Seat
I do not want a Recumbent

Bike for riding on City Streets , sidewalk or park about 10 to 20 miles
per ride for about 5 days a week , (also bike will seldom be used on
dirt or gravel roads )

Price Range $500 to $1500.

I hope you will not consider me to be too close minded and not
knowledgeable due to the many specific aspects of my request- somewhat
true- however,
I would appreciate any comments on Specific Manufacturers & Model
Names of Bikes with a majority of the specifics I am seeking.

I would like to narrow the field and concentrate on specific model bikes
for trial rides. .
Your preferred model bikes or comments are appreciated.

Thanks

Cody

Specialized Globe

That's a nice choice--a little more "serious" than some of the "comfort"
bikes around. Shame they got rid of the Nexus hub. :/

I think the OP could still benefit from an internally geared bike--but not
a 3 speed, a nice 8 speed:

http://tinyurl.com/5ac86

or

perhaps a Breezer "Uptown"

http://tinyurl.com/cq84w

Both are around $800

"maxo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

[a lot of great advice snipped]

I agree 100% with what Maxo wrote.

I'll just underscore:

o drop handlebars are much comfortable than straight bars -- you have many
more possible hand positions with drop bars, increasing your flexibility and
comfort.

o no need for shocks or suspension if you're not going off-road, and in fact
not having these will make it easier to ride.

o wide tires just increase rolling resistance -- 28" or 32" is as wide as
you'll ever need. If you have cross or touring tires, you can take the bike
on hard-packed unpaved trails without difficulty.

--
Warm Regards,

Claire Petersky
Personal page: http://www.geocities.com/cpetersky/
See the books I've set free at:
http://bookcrossing.com/referral/Cpetersky

Claire Petersky said:

o drop handlebars are much comfortable than straight bars -- you have many
more possible hand positions with drop bars, increasing your flexibility
and comfort.

I'll make the exception for smartly curved "city bike" bars like on the
Breezer bikes and traditional bends like the "north road bend". Just fine
for short city jaunts--and is what most urban bikes come with anyway. I do
love the parallel grips on my rod-brake Raleigh, too. Drops still rule for
long distance.

I often see people with flat bar bikes grasping the inner portion of the
bar--just desperate for a new hand position, sad since a lot of these
bikes ain't cheap--and they mistakenly bought them for comfort reasons.

Flat bars, if you lop a couple three inches off of them with a hacksaw and
mount nice ergo bar ends, can be made to work--just not my first choice.

BobT said:

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I would like to narrow the field and concentrate on specific model
bikes for trial rides. .
Your preferred model bikes or comments are appreciated.
Thanks
Cody

Quoted message said:

Specialized Globe

Thanks,Bob,

I found the Specialized Globe details and it appears to be the type I
would like to give a test ride.
Unfortunately, closest Dealer appears to be 250 miles.

Quoted message said:

Thanks,Bob,

I found the Specialized Globe details and it appears to be the type I
would like to give a test ride.
Unfortunately, closest Dealer appears to be 250 miles.

That's the problem with these types of bikes. There are actually quite a
few of them, see http://commutebike.com, but very few dealers will stock
them. In the SF Bay Area there were two dealers that did have a couple
of Globe's at one time, but I never found a dealer that stocked the Trek
models, such as the T300. I guess no one in the U.S. wants bikes like
these, or maybe they don't know about them because the dealers won't
take the risk in stocking them. If I were a dealer, I'd take the risk.
Worst case, you sell it at the end of the season for cost.

maxo said:

codyraymond said:

Bike for riding on City Streets , sidewalk or park about 10 to 20 miles
per ride for about 5 days a week

then why do you need shocks front and rear? Because everybody else does?

You need a rigid hybrid or flat bar road bike--you say you don't like low
racing style handlebars, but they don't have to be low when in that style.
You'll be imminently more comfortable on drop bars than straight, if
they're even with the saddle or higher.

Try an Novara Randonee at REI if you've got one nearby--it's a venerable
touring bike, and can be set up to be very comfortable. About $800.

Also forget the "balloon tires"--it's not going to make your ride in more
comfy--try something in a moderate width that's comfy and fast rolling:
1.5" for 26" wheels or maybe a 32mm for a 700c wheel.

Sounds like you really need to go to a bike shop and hang out and gab a
bit--your requests mirror a lot of newcomer myths and mistakes. Not trying
to be critical at all, but I'd rather you got a bike that's actually going
to be comfortable rather than one that's simply shaped like something your
brain thinks is going to be cushy--but at the end of the day is abusive to
your body.

😉

Thank you for reply.

I will look at Novara bikes at REI- with a model along the line of
what I prefer.

I used drop bars for years- and regardless of position of seat,
handlebars, etc- I hate them.
I know not to get a gel seat. When I say balloon tires, I implied
something wider than these narrow tires I now have.

My bike had a flat . For the first time - just for the heck of it
till I got a new inner tube- I rode my wife's bike.
The gearing was bad, and certainly not like my 21 speed, but that was
to be expected.
It is a cheap model - with straight upright handlebars, wider &
softer tires, shocks on fork and seat post & has 7 speeds . Even
though it is too small , the seat was wrong etc.
I was shocked to find that the softer ride ride was more enjoyable
than my own Expensive properly fitted bike I have ridden for years-
with many experiments on seats, seat posts, tires, tire pressure,
risers, bars, bar ends, , etc. etc.

Based that simple ride on her bike , I want to test ride a Quality
Mfg, bike that fits me in the $500 to $1500 range with those features.

My current Bike design and style is not for me. I am not going to
continue experimenting with changes on the bike.
I have had over 20 years & thousands of miles -but lots exercise
out of it.
I am going to change & want something more comfortable.

The streets, sidewalks, parks, etc I ride on have more than enough
holes, cracks, uneven surfaces & lose gravel to make my current ride
extremely bumpy with a lot of jolts.

codyraymond said:

Based that simple ride on her bike , I want to test ride a Quality Mfg,
bike that fits me in the $500 to $1500 range with those features.

My current Bike design and style is not for me. I am not going to continue
experimenting with changes on the bike. I have had over 20 years &
thousands of miles -but lots exercise out of it.
I am going to change & want something more comfortable.

The streets, sidewalks, parks, etc I ride on have more than enough holes,
cracks, uneven surfaces & lose gravel to make my current ride extremely
bumpy with a lot of jolts.

That makes more sense then. It sounded like you were new or rejoining the
sport after a long hiatus in the first post. Sorry for being presumptuous.

I know you're pretty set against drop bars--but do try a modern set at a
bike shop, feel free to hate them thoroughly, but I bet you'll be
surprised at how the subtle changes in shapes of drops and levers over the
last 20 years has made them substantially more comfy. Just give them one
little try--and make sure the shop gets them to the correct height for ya,
maybe an inch or so above saddle level--modern threadless stems are quick
to change, this shouldn't be a big deal.

If that doesn't work--most bike shops have plenty of "comfort" bikes like
your wife's, albeit in much better quality. Test them all out and see what
you like.

In article <[email hidden]>,

Quoted message said:

The streets, sidewalks, parks, etc I ride on have more than enough
holes, cracks, uneven surfaces & lose gravel to make my current ride
extremely bumpy with a lot of jolts.

Same here. I'm riding an older, rigid-forked, city-fied MTB.
If you really have your heart set on getting a cheap-o RST-type
suspension fork, I ain't stoppin' ya. But I will suggest it's
really not necessary. On a well-enough fitting bike it's easy
to just ride light on the saddle (or off it) when going over
the rough stuff. That also negates any supposed "need" for
suspension seatposts.

And this is just an unconfirmed opinion on my part, but I
suspect that riding while firmly seated over the rough stuff
actually inflicts more jolts & shocks into the bike itself,
thereby possibly loosening fender and rack mountings, and
maybe not doing much good for headlight bulb filaments either.

Anyway it's cheaper, lighter, and involves less maintenance
to just stand on the pedals over the broken pavement, than
it is to be stuck with babysitting a suspension fork.

cheers,
Tom

--
-- Nothing is safe from me.
Above address is just a spam midden.
I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

Quoted message said:

I used drop bars for years- and regardless of position of seat,
handlebars, etc- I hate them.
I know not to get a gel seat. When I say balloon tires, I implied
something wider than these narrow tires I now have.

What exactly are you riding? That might help narrow down the suggestions.

I started looking for a bike like you describe, but found that I liked
longer distances, my midrange front suspension mountain bike was too
much weight to pedal around and my hands got tired of the limited grip.

I'd keep an open mind and try to ride a bunch of different bikes before
buying anything. Six months is not too long if you come up with the
right solution. Finally, I would try to learn as much as I could about
how various bikes are spec'd out so I would know what I was paying for.

On Sun, 7 Aug 2005 22:32:42 -0700, [email hidden] (Tom Keats)

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

Quoted message said:

The streets, sidewalks, parks, etc I ride on have more than enough
holes, cracks, uneven surfaces & lose gravel to make my current ride
extremely bumpy with a lot of jolts.

But I will suggest it's

Quoted message said:

really not necessary. On a well-enough fitting bike it's easy
to just ride light on the saddle (or off it) when going over
the rough stuff. That also negates any supposed "need" for
suspension seatposts.
cheers,
Tom

Thanks, Tom, I certainly agree with the light on saddle & off the seat
procedure. I have used for years, however, my aging legs & body are
now in rebellion. I agree on weight problem etc. but I really do want
something softer and more relaxing.

I haven't located a Dealer who is a real Biker. They want to convince
me that what is in stock is perfect for me. In addition, when trying
out a Bike, at an unknown Dealer, they even want to hold my Drivers
License while I just go down the Street a block and return- in full
view of Store.
Cody

Quoted message said:

I am looking for a Bike that has the following features:

Shock Forks & Seat Post- preferable adjustable
Larger Size Balloon type Tires
No Low racing style handle bars,
but higher straight style with bar ends
Reputable Bike Mfg.
Lighter weight- in area 40 #
Speed range in area of 7 to 21

I do not want to go the expense of a special build bike
I do not want a single or 3 speed model
I do not want a trail bike with rear shock suspension
I do not want a Gel Seat
I do not want a Recumbent

Bike for riding on City Streets , sidewalk or park about 10 to 20
miles per ride for about 5 days a week , (also bike will seldom be
used on dirt or gravel roads )

Price Range $500 to $1500.

I hope you will not consider me to be too close minded and not
knowledgeable due to the many specific aspects of my request-
somewhat true- however,
I would appreciate any comments on Specific Manufacturers & Model
Names of Bikes with a majority of the specifics I am seeking.

Well, the issue is that some parts of your request don't work well
together, for city riding, unless your in Africa or South America where
roads can leave a lot to be desired, shocks don't really help much.

Forget balloon tires, the wider the tire, the higher the drag the tire
adds to the process (it's called rolling resistance), that's why
traditional road bikes have narrow tires.

40lbs these days, is a heavy bike, many cruisers will run close to 40,
typical road bikes are closer to 30lbs, mountain bikes should be
somewhere in the middle.

Gears, 7 speed is typical for internal hubs, although there are now
8speed, and a German company Rolloff (sp?) makes a 14speed, but it's
very expensive. Deraileur geared bikes, typically run 7,8 or 9 in the
back, and 2 or 3 in the front.

Flat bars, need to be carefully adjusted for height, drop (racing) bars
can be ridden in the drops, on the curve, on the brake hoods, on the
top, so you can adjust the height during the ride, something that can be
critical on longer rides, when different muscles need different
positions to keep from cramping up......

Quoted message said:

I would like to narrow the field and concentrate on specific model
bikes for trial rides. .
Your preferred model bikes or comments are appreciated.

City or trail? You mention city early on, and trail here, which is it?

W

"maxo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Claire Petersky said:

o drop handlebars are much comfortable than straight bars -- you have
many
more possible hand positions with drop bars, increasing your flexibility
and comfort.

I'll make the exception for smartly curved "city bike" bars like on the
Breezer bikes and traditional bends like the "north road bend". Just fine
for short city jaunts--and is what most urban bikes come with anyway.

Are the north road bend bars what I know as priest bars? (See picture on
this page,
http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/html/membership_rivendell12.html)

--
Warm Regards,

Claire Petersky
Personal page: http://www.geocities.com/cpetersky/
See the books I've set free at:
http://bookcrossing.com/referral/Cpetersky

Claire Petersky said:

"maxo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Claire Petersky said:

o drop handlebars are much comfortable than straight bars -- you have
many
more possible hand positions with drop bars, increasing your flexibility
and comfort.

I'll make the exception for smartly curved "city bike" bars like on the
Breezer bikes and traditional bends like the "north road bend". Just fine
for short city jaunts--and is what most urban bikes come with anyway.

Are the north road bend bars what I know as priest bars? (See picture on
this page,
http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/html/membership_rivendell12.html)

Pretty much - they may not be identical, but they are in the same
family. For some pictures of bars labeled as "north road", see:

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/handlebars.html

http://aebike.com/site/page.cfm?PageID=30&SKU=HB1008

http://www.bikepartsusa.com/product_info.phtml?p=01-79850&large=1

Other names I have seen for these types of bars include: dove, falcon,
albatross, and 3-speed (english three-speeds tended to use these). By
the way, these are fantastic bars for short trips - I find them far
more comfortable and "natural" than mountain-bike like flat bars. For
a rider that doesn't like or can't be convinced to try drops, these are
the way to go.

Later,
Mark Muller

Quoted message said:

In addition, when trying
out a Bike, at an unknown Dealer, they even want to hold my Drivers
License while I just go down the Street a block and return- in full
view of Store.
Cody

That is nothing unusual in a major metropolitan area.

[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

I would like to narrow the field and concentrate on specific model
bikes for trial rides. .
Your preferred model bikes or comments are appreciated.

Thanks

Cody

Before you make the mistake of buying a comfort bike, consider going
with a mountain bike with a few simple DIY modifications. The
advantages will be:

quality
compatibility
durability
weight

A decent mountain bike will have a functional and durable suspension
fork. If you feel you really need a suspension seat post, good quality
and well tested models are available. If you buy well, all components
will be name brand and each will have an individual reputation. Install
a set of slicks of your choice and you will have an ideal city bike.
Five years from now if you need to replace or upgrade parts, they will
be commonly available. For a comfort bike, none of those advantages can
be assumed. Parts will tend to be proprietary, low end brands, or
obscure lines from major brands. Finding compatible replacement parts
on short notice may prove difficult or impossible. With 35 years of
biking experience under my belt, in my opinion comfort bikes are nothing
but a marketing gimmick. They are meant to impress non-riders in the
first 30 seconds of a test ride and little more. Often, that is the
most action they ever see. Having said that, just about anything will
work for a 10 mile ride, but 20 miles is a little more serious biking.
You will want something that you can grow with as your fitness level
increases. You won't get that with most comfort bikes, although some
will obviously be better than others. The extreme upright position is a
non sequitur. You can achieve better comfort over the long haul if your
arms support a little weight too, instead of putting it all on your legs
and rear end. It may not feel as much like sitting on a sofa at first,
but it is a mistake to look for that in a bicycle. Try as you might,
you will be hard pressed to find knowledgeable and experienced riders
logging serious miles on a comfort bike.

My recommendation: Giant Rainier. Chuck the knobby tires and put on
slicks. If you really want a suspension seatpost, order a Cane Creek
Thudbuster online. Don't make the mistake of thinking that 100% comfort
is achievable on a bike. Comfort is a relative thing in this sport and
depends on many factors, not the least of which is your fitness level.
Things like saddles, bars and stems are highly individual choices and
that goes back to the compatibility concerns I already raised. Very
small adjustments in saddle height and position can have drastic
consequences for comfort. Still, you will never find perfect comfort on
a bicycle. If you want that, then don't get out of bed. I rode 75
miles Saturday on a full suspension mountain bike with semi-slicks.
Total climbing was about 4,000 feet. Yes, my butt was beyond tired, but
why wouldn't it be? I had been in the saddle for five hours.

Claire Petersky said:

Are the north road bend bars what I know as priest bars? (See picture on
this page,
http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/html/membership_rivendell12.html)

Sorta, north road bend bars are pretty much like what you find on most 60s
three-speeds--a bit more angled out than a "priest" bar.

All those type shapes are nice in the city--though for my old "aggressive"
city bike--I did switch from north road nittos to flat bars (shortened by
4" with trusty saw) to get a position with a lot of "control". That was
for riding in downtown Chicago--so comfort was last, being able to wrench
the front end when it hit snow drifts was more important. LOL