help for mechanically inempt on changing a flat

On 22 May 2004 11:59:00 -0700, [email hidden] (Phil

Blumenkrantz) said:

OK I admit I'm all thumbs when it comes to bikes. While trying to
change a flat: (a) the new tube (right size I think) didn't seem to
stuff in right, it got all bunched up. When I finally got it in, the
tire was still flat, I took most of the tube out and there were two
holes (probably pierced while trying to get tire/tube back on wheel).
I patched holes. Only NOW, when I pump the tube up to check the fix,
the tube constricts in the area where I got the flat (the patch did
stop the leak). Suggestions?

Dear Phil,

Outside the tire, any tube will expand dramatically and constrict
where it's patched.

But inside the tire, the tube is constrained and hardly expands
at all, so the patches are no problem.

Carl Fogel

Phil Blumenkrantz said:

OK I admit I'm all thumbs when it comes to bikes. While trying to
change a flat: (a) the new tube (right size I think) didn't seem to
stuff in right, it got all bunched up. When I finally got it in, the
tire was still flat, I took most of the tube out and there were two
holes (probably pierced while trying to get tire/tube back on wheel).
I patched holes. Only NOW, when I pump the tube up to check the fix,
the tube constricts in the area where I got the flat (the patch did
stop the leak). Suggestions?

A bit of talc on the tube seems to help with getting the tyre on. It
makes the tube slide over the rim but still allows you to get a grip on
the tyre. Some tyre/tube combinations are awful to mount but generally
speaking, start mounting at the valve so the last bit is opposite the
valve, squeeze the beads together so they are in the centre of the rim
bed (if possible) and try a combination of pulling the bead over the rim
and pushing it with the balls of your thumbs. If you must use tyre
levers ensure the lever is *under* the tube so it's not trapped between
the lever and the rim. You may still get a pinch puncture if the tube
is trapped between the tyre bead and the lever.

Even the really recalcitrant tyres go on reasonably well once they've
been mounted for a while and the bead has stretched.

On 22 May 2004 11:59:00 -0700, [email hidden] (Phil

Blumenkrantz) may have said:

OK I admit I'm all thumbs when it comes to bikes. While trying to
change a flat: (a) the new tube (right size I think) didn't seem to
stuff in right, it got all bunched up. When I finally got it in, the
tire was still flat, I took most of the tube out and there were two
holes (probably pierced while trying to get tire/tube back on wheel).
I patched holes. Only NOW, when I pump the tube up to check the fix,
the tube constricts in the area where I got the flat (the patch did
stop the leak). Suggestions?

If it's the right size of tube, it's twisted. Put a little air into
it *before* you try to put it into the tire; if it's obvious that it's
way too large in diameter for the wheel, you can stop before you make
it worse. Having the tube slightly inflated keeps it from getting
twisted when it's inserted, and it also helps to keep it out of the
way of levers and such.

--
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Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Werehatrack said:

On 22 May 2004 11:59:00 -0700, [email hidden] (Phil Blumenkrantz)

may have said:

OK I admit I'm all thumbs when it comes to bikes. While trying to
change a flat: (a) the new tube (right size I think) didn't seem to
stuff in right, it got all bunched up. When I finally got it in, the
tire was still flat, I took most of the tube out and there were two
holes (probably pierced while trying to get tire/tube back on wheel). I
patched holes. Only NOW, when I pump the tube up to check the fix, the
tube constricts in the area where I got the flat (the patch did stop
the leak). Suggestions?

If it's the right size of tube, it's twisted. Put a little air into it
*before* you try to put it into the tire; if it's obvious that it's way
too large in diameter for the wheel, you can stop before you make it
worse. Having the tube slightly inflated keeps it from getting twisted
when it's inserted, and it also helps to keep it out of the way of
levers and such.
--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature. Words processed in a facility
that contains nuts.

I agree with werehatrack. I think it also helps to practice at home. I
suggest that you lightly inflate the tire... after following
werehatrack's method.. and then check 360 degrees around on each tire
bead to make sure the tube isn't trapped under the bead. Pump up slowly
to make sure the beads are properly seated and the tire runs smoothly
all around. If you can practice sufficiently you should be able to mount
and remove most tires from most rims without any tools. Some tires are
slightly undersized and some rims are slightly oversized... so this
won't work on every combination. Your patching constraint situation is
normal... but better than many first timers, as it isn't leaking. Park
Tool has many great repair procedures on their site. They have one that
covers this subject that may help further:

<http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQtires.shtml>

--

daveornee said:

If you can practice sufficiently you should be able to mount
and remove most tires from most rims without any tools. Some tires are
slightly undersized and some rims are slightly oversized... so this
won't work on every combination.

After rolling the skin off my thumbs more than once I've given up
battling with tight tire/rim combinations. I ride mostly with 700x20s,
so a tight fit is more common than with MTB tires for example. I just
reach for the tire levers first thing.

jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3