I bought them as a set (f/r). I had to remove the hose to get the rear to fit through the frame. I never undid the hose for the front. I set them up and bleed the rear. The brakes work fine I am just trying to get the same action on the levers between the front and rear.
I can not get the rear brake lever to have the same action (point at which the lever makes the pads engage the rotor) as the front.
I have bleed the rear brake many times and I am sure I am doing it right but it never feels the same as the front.
"loomer" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
I bought them as a set (f/r). I had to remove the hose to get the rear to fit through the frame. I never undid the hose for the front. I set them
up
Quoted message said:
and bleed the rear. The brakes work fine I am just trying to get the same action on the levers between the front and rear.
I can not get the rear brake lever to have the same action (point at which the lever makes the pads engage the rotor) as the front.
I have bleed the rear brake many times and I am sure I am doing it right
but
Quoted message said:
it never feels the same as the front.
Any Ideas?
Loomer, Pull your brake lever in and secure it there with a zip-tie, rope, tape, etc. Tap on the caliper and lines with a piece of wood (or something that won't damage the hardware). Leave it this way overnight and bleed it again the next day. You have a nice solid feel to you brakes after this. What this does is forces the air bubbles out of the pistons and allows them to rise to the bleeder fitting.
What this does is forces the air bubbles out of the pistons and allows them
to
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rise to the bleeder fitting. Dave Haley
Thanks for the tip but could you descibe this in a little more detail? I take the pads off when I bleed. Should I put something in the caliper to put pressure in there too?
"loomer" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
"Dave Haley" <[email hidden]>
Quoted message said:
What this does is forces the air bubbles out of the pistons and allows
them
Quoted message said:
to
Quoted message said:
rise to the bleeder fitting. Dave Haley
Thanks for the tip but could you descibe this in a little more detail? I take the pads off when I bleed. Should I put something in the caliper to put pressure in there too?
Leave the pads in and the wheel installed while you have the lever clamped. Leave the bike with the lever clamped for a few hours. Remove the lever clamp and bleed the brakes following the Hayes procedure http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/pdf/BleedKit-45-14576BEnglishWeb.pdf . Definitely remove the pads as bleeding Hayes brakes has a great potential to contaminate the pads if you have a leak while pushing fluid in the system.
My current bike has Shimano XT hydraulic brakes which bleed like motorcycle or automotive brakes, Hayes is kind of a reverse process as you are pushing fluid from the caliper to the master cylinder.
"Loomer" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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"Dave Haley" <[email hidden]
Quoted message said:
Pull your brake lever in and secure it there with a zip-tie, rope, tape, etc.
Should I leave the lever zip tied and pulled in when I bleed the system?
No, Once the system has sat in this condition for a few hours release the lever and bleed as the Hayes instructions indicate. Please see my post at 3:29pm for details.
"loomer" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
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I can not get the rear brake lever to have the same action (point at which the lever makes the pads engage the rotor) as the front.
if brake feel and brake action are ok it's not that the system needs (re)bleeding, it'll be the throw screw in the lever that's - one will be wound out more than the other, giving different engagement points (this is a feature not a bug!)
On mine the 'locking compound' on those grub screws ex-factory was next to useless, they'd actually unwind during a ride due to vibration - apply some decent thread locker (i.e. blue loctite) after you've got them set to where you feel happy.
In news:[email hidden], Loomer <[email hidden]> typed:
Quoted message said:
"Dave Haley" <[email hidden]
Quoted message said:
Pull your brake lever in and secure it there with a zip-tie, rope, tape, etc.
Should I leave the lever zip tied and pulled in when I bleed the system?
NO! If the lever is pulled the hole in the master cylinder will be closed. While you are bleeding the brakes you may 'snap' the lever a couple of times to shock loose any bubbles in the system. The rear brake is never going to feel as good as the front due to the longer length of hose. I've heard Goodridge brake lines solve this problem but never tried them myself.
"loomer" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
I can not get the rear brake lever to have the same action (point at which the lever makes the pads engage the rotor) as the front.
if brake feel and brake action are ok it's not that the system needs (re)bleeding, it'll be the throw screw in the lever that's - one will be wound out more than the other, giving different engagement points (this is a feature not a bug!)
On mine the 'locking compound' on those grub screws ex-factory was next to useless, they'd actually unwind during a ride due to vibration - apply some decent thread locker (i.e. blue loctite) after you've got them set to where you feel happy.
Ditto with mine. A blob of loctite seems to have fixed the problem. I didn't even know the little buggers were there, tucked away almost out of sight, until it was pointed out to me. -- Westie (Replace 'invalid' with 'yahoo' when replying.)
