Hayes Disks enaged after using Trainer....

JeffP said:

I was using an old style wind trainer where I need to remove the
front and rear tires to mount the front to the trainer and install a
slick rear wheel.

I placed a doubled credit card in the calipers to keep them from
jumping in all the way out in case of accidentally enaging the breaks.

When it was time to return to the dirt I replaced the wheels and
enaging the disk in the calipers went smoothly, but now the brakes
are dragging severly.

Not got Hayes but...

Try removing the res cap on the lever to free up the top of the system, then
use a blunt object to lever the pistons back into the caliper, before
replacing the res cap.

Quoted message said:

I also notice a bit of dot 4 at the leading edge of the lever mount,
right where it says dot 4.

How appropriate... : )

--
Mark

Mark (UK) said:

JeffP said:

I was using an old style wind trainer where I need to remove the
front and rear tires to mount the front to the trainer and install a
slick rear wheel.

I placed a doubled credit card in the calipers to keep them from
jumping in all the way out in case of accidentally enaging the breaks.

When it was time to return to the dirt I replaced the wheels and
enaging the disk in the calipers went smoothly, but now the brakes
are dragging severly.

Not got Hayes but...

Try removing the res cap on the lever to free up the top of the system, then
use a blunt object to lever the pistons back into the caliper, before
replacing the res cap.

--
Mark

Eeeek!!!! Whatever you do, *do not* do the above unless you want fluid
blowing everywhere.

Jeff, Which Hayes are you running? And can you tell if the fluid is
coming from the bleed screw on the master or just seeping out around
that black plastic part that says, "DOT 3... ?"

--
Slacker

Quoted message said:

Try removing the res cap on the lever to free up the top of the system, then
use a blunt object to lever the pistons back into the caliper, before
replacing the res cap.

--
Mark

Eeeek!!!! Whatever you do, *do not* do the above unless you want fluid
blowing everywhere.

--
Slacker

JeffP said:

I was using an old style wind trainer where I need to remove the front and rear
tires to mount the front to the trainer and install a slick rear wheel.

I placed a doubled credit card in the calipers to keep them from jumping in all
the way out in case of accidentally enaging the breaks.

When it was time to return to the dirt I replaced the wheels and enaging the
disk in the calipers went smoothly, but now the brakes are dragging severly.

I also notice a bit of dot 4 at the leading edge of the lever mount, right where
it says dot 4.

Which Hayes are you running? And can you tell if the fluid is coming
from the bleed screw on the master or just seeping out around that black
plastic part that says, "DOT 3... ?"

--
Slacker

Slacker said:

Eeeek!!!! Whatever you do, *do not* do the above unless you want fluid
blowing everywhere.

ok, standing corrected. Was sure i read that somewhere for hope minis...

Mark (UK) said:

Slacker said:

Eeeek!!!! Whatever you do, *do not* do the above unless you want fluid
blowing everywhere.

ok, standing corrected. Was sure i read that somewhere for hope minis...

Yeah, could be for Hopes... I don't know, I'm not familiar with their
system.

Hayes doesn't have that traditional reservoir that you're thing of.
Everything, including what would be the reservoir fluid, is housed in
the master, where the lever is.

--
Slacker

I'm not sure of the master housing model, but they're black alum.

(how would I know what model just by looking, I suppose I could check the bikes
specs, it's an `03 NRS1)

The small amount of leakage is as I stated at the leading edge of the housing.

There's a small phillips next to what appears to be a small cover/cap

..... (_____)X leaking at the left to the center of the bike.

I stand corrected it says on two lines,

Dot 3 or
Dot 4

Now for the fun part....

Not knowing if the plastic (_____) is for I started pulling it straight
out.....

And low and behold, there's fluid in thar' and it's a'leak'n all over the
place....

Well it leaked for less than a second before I put my thumb on it and replaced
the cover ASAP.

Anyway the rotors spin freely....

Now to start over....:

I don't know much about bike hydraulic brakes but it would'ave made more sence
to me to bleed the caliper rather than open the fill cap.

If bleeding is all that I needed to do, then I'm good to go on the rear. I
should probably replace all my fluid anyway. Although the bike has very few
miles, it is an `03 and the fluid should be changed.

The rotor spins freely and brake lever still feels tight, so it's all good.

TIA

JeffP.....

"Slacker" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

JeffP said:

I was using an old style wind trainer where I need to remove the front and

rear

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

tires to mount the front to the trainer and install a slick rear wheel.

I placed a doubled credit card in the calipers to keep them from jumping in

all

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

the way out in case of accidentally enaging the breaks.

When it was time to return to the dirt I replaced the wheels and enaging the
disk in the calipers went smoothly, but now the brakes are dragging severly.

I also notice a bit of dot 4 at the leading edge of the lever mount, right

where

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

it says dot 4.

Which Hayes are you running? And can you tell if the fluid is coming
from the bleed screw on the master or just seeping out around that black
plastic part that says, "DOT 3... ?"

--
Slacker

Looks like your bike came stock with the Hayes HFX-9
http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/hfxxcBIG.html

Go to http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/ and download the manual, if you
haven't already. You can also check out my pix from my last rebuild
http://www.pbase.com/slack/hayes_brakes&page=1 that will give you an
idea of how the pieces fit together.

Check the small boot around the lever plunger. But it sounds like the
master bladder isn't seated properly. You probably should drain all the
fluid and take apart the master, then you'll be able to see what the
problem is. Make sure to order a new compression sleeve before starting
though; you'll need it to reattach the hose after you;re done.

On second thought, first check the torque on the nut at the end of the
master housing. That nut (smaller one) is what holds the bladder/master
tight and keeps the fluid inside. You can see the nut here
http://www.pbase.com/image/7278214 The larger nut holds the hose the the
master.

BTW, keep a little squirt bottle of rubbing alcohol near to spray down
the entire lever/master assembly; it neutralizes the brake fluid.

Sheesh.... Looks like your bike came stock with the Hayes HFX-9
http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/hfxxcBIG.html Guess I should have started
there first. Scratch everything I wrote above, your brakes are a little
different than the traditional ones; It lacks the bladder for one, so
I'm not familiar with the internals. If you're not confident working on
it yourself, hopefully you have a good LBS that you trust.
--
Slacker

Slacker,

Thanks for your lead on this....

The leaking was at the cover/cap and not at the housing, yes to order all parts
first before I start a rebuild, I learned that rebuilding my own carbs on my
cars.

I had nearby some alcohol that I used to clean up the housing and any unseen
drops from the rotor.

I'ver rebuilt manaul 4 speed w/planatery overdrive trans on cars, got my first
motorcycle at 14 w/the moter in pieces in a box and my first car at 17 in the
same condition.

I see the cavalier attitiude of the mechanics at some of the LBS, and a lack of
torque wrenches so my confidence in the LBS is low. I'd love to be convinced
otherwise.

I can do it wrong for free and I know what components are suspect when I spin my
own wrenches.

I'm looking at the Hayes website and my lever housing looks slightly different,
it lacks the word NINE in the casting logo.

Otherwise it looks quite the same. I'm going to go over the bleeding and see
what comes of it. I do believe that that it's time to replace the fluid. I've
been told that break fliud absorbs water which can cause corrosion so it's a
good idea to replace the fluid every season or once a year.

I am cautious though, every time I work on something it's an opportunity for
something to break.

JeffP....

"Slacker" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Looks like your bike came stock with the Hayes HFX-9
http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/hfxxcBIG.html

Go to http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/ and download the manual, if you
haven't already. You can also check out my pix from my last rebuild
http://www.pbase.com/slack/hayes_brakes&page=1 that will give you an
idea of how the pieces fit together.

Check the small boot around the lever plunger. But it sounds like the
master bladder isn't seated properly. You probably should drain all the
fluid and take apart the master, then you'll be able to see what the
problem is. Make sure to order a new compression sleeve before starting
though; you'll need it to reattach the hose after you;re done.

On second thought, first check the torque on the nut at the end of the
master housing. That nut (smaller one) is what holds the bladder/master
tight and keeps the fluid inside. You can see the nut here
http://www.pbase.com/image/7278214 The larger nut holds the hose the the
master.

BTW, keep a little squirt bottle of rubbing alcohol near to spray down
the entire lever/master assembly; it neutralizes the brake fluid.

Sheesh.... Looks like your bike came stock with the Hayes HFX-9
http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/hfxxcBIG.html Guess I should have started
there first. Scratch everything I wrote above, your brakes are a little
different than the traditional ones; It lacks the bladder for one, so
I'm not familiar with the internals. If you're not confident working on
it yourself, hopefully you have a good LBS that you trust.
--
Slacker