Hayes Disks enaged after using Trainer....

JeffP said:

I was using an old style wind trainer where I need to
remove the front and rear tires to mount the front to the
trainer and install a slick rear wheel.

I placed a doubled credit card in the calipers to keep
them from jumping in all the way out in case of
accidentally enaging the breaks.

When it was time to return to the dirt I replaced the
wheels and enaging the disk in the calipers went smoothly,
but now the brakes are dragging severly.

Not got Hayes but...

Try removing the res cap on the lever to free up the top of
the system, then use a blunt object to lever the pistons
back into the caliper, before replacing the res cap.

Quoted message said:

I also notice a bit of dot 4 at the leading edge of the
lever mount, right where it says dot 4.

How appropriate... : )

--
Mark

JeffP said:

I was using an old style wind trainer where I need to
remove the front and rear tires to mount the front to the
trainer and install a slick rear wheel.

I placed a doubled credit card in the calipers to keep
them from jumping in all the way out in case of
accidentally enaging the breaks.

When it was time to return to the dirt I replaced the
wheels and enaging the disk in the calipers went smoothly,
but now the brakes are dragging severly.

I also notice a bit of dot 4 at the leading edge of the
lever mount, right where it says dot 4.

Which Hayes are you running? And can you tell if the fluid
is coming from the bleed screw on the master or just seeping
out around that black plastic part that says, "DOT 3... ?"

--
Slacker

Mark (UK) said:

JeffP said:

I was using an old style wind trainer where I need to
remove the front and rear tires to mount the front to the
trainer and install a slick rear wheel.

I placed a doubled credit card in the calipers to keep
them from jumping in all the way out in case of
accidentally enaging the breaks.

When it was time to return to the dirt I replaced the
wheels and enaging the disk in the calipers went smoothly,
but now the brakes are dragging severly.

Not got Hayes but...

Try removing the res cap on the lever to free up the
top of the system, then use a blunt object to lever
the pistons back into the caliper, before replacing
the res cap.

--
Mark

Eeeek!!!! Whatever you do, *do not* do the above unless you
want fluid blowing everywhere.

Jeff, Which Hayes are you running? And can you tell if
the fluid is coming from the bleed screw on the master or
just seeping out around that black plastic part that
says, "DOT 3... ?"

--
Slacker

Quoted message said:

Try removing the res cap on the lever to free up the
top of the system, then use a blunt object to lever
the pistons back into the caliper, before replacing
the res cap.

--
Mark

Eeeek!!!! Whatever you do, *do not* do the above unless you
want fluid blowing everywhere.

--
Slacker

Slacker said:

Eeeek!!!! Whatever you do, *do not* do the above unless
you want fluid blowing everywhere.

ok, standing corrected. Was sure i read that somewhere for
hope minis...

Mark (UK) said:

Slacker said:

Eeeek!!!! Whatever you do, *do not* do the above unless
you want fluid blowing everywhere.

ok, standing corrected. Was sure i read that somewhere for
hope minis...

Yeah, could be for Hopes... I don't know, I'm not familiar
with their system.

Hayes doesn't have that traditional reservoir that you're
thing of. Everything, including what would be the reservoir
fluid, is housed in the master, where the lever is.

--
Slacker

I'm not sure of the master housing model, but they're
black alum.

(how would I know what model just by looking, I suppose I
could check the bikes specs, it's an `03 NRS1)

The small amount of leakage is as I stated at the leading
edge of the housing.

There's a small phillips next to what appears to be a
small cover/cap

.... (_____)X leaking at the left to the center of the bike.

I stand corrected it says on two lines,

Dot 3 or Dot 4

Now for the fun part....

Not knowing if the plastic (_____) is for I started pulling
it straight out.....

And low and behold, there's fluid in thar' and it's a'leak'n
all over the place....

Well it leaked for less than a second before I put my thumb
on it and replaced the cover ASAP.

Anyway the rotors spin freely....

Now to start over....:

I don't know much about bike hydraulic brakes but it
would'ave made more sence to me to bleed the caliper rather
than open the fill cap.

If bleeding is all that I needed to do, then I'm good to go
on the rear. I should probably replace all my fluid anyway.
Although the bike has very few miles, it is an `03 and the
fluid should be changed.

The rotor spins freely and brake lever still feels tight, so
it's all good.

TIA

JeffP.....

"Slacker" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:2i1gtiFhq0l4U3@uni-
berlin.de...

Quoted message said:

JeffP said:

I was using an old style wind trainer where I need to
remove the front and

rear

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

tires to mount the front to the trainer and install a
slick rear wheel.

I placed a doubled credit card in the calipers to keep
them from jumping in

all

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

the way out in case of accidentally enaging the breaks.

When it was time to return to the dirt I replaced the
wheels and enaging the disk in the calipers went
smoothly, but now the brakes are dragging severly.

I also notice a bit of dot 4 at the leading edge of the
lever mount, right

where

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

it says dot 4.

Which Hayes are you running? And can you tell if the
fluid is coming from the bleed screw on the master or
just seeping out around that black plastic part that
says, "DOT 3... ?"

--
Slacker

Looks like your bike came stock with the Hayes HFX-9
hayesdiscbrake.comhfxxcBIG.htmlOpen ↗

Go to hayesdiscbrake.comhayesdiscbrake.comOpen ↗ and download the
manual, if you haven't already. You can also check out my
pix from my last rebuild
pbase.comhayes brakes&page=1Open ↗ that will
give you an idea of how the pieces fit together.

Check the small boot around the lever plunger. But it sounds
like the master bladder isn't seated properly. You probably
should drain all the fluid and take apart the master, then
you'll be able to see what the problem is. Make sure to
order a new compression sleeve before starting though;
you'll need it to reattach the hose after you;re done.

On second thought, first check the torque on the nut at the
end of the master housing. That nut (smaller one) is what
holds the bladder/master tight and keeps the fluid inside.
You can see the nut here pbase.com7278214Open ↗
The larger nut holds the hose the the master.

BTW, keep a little squirt bottle of rubbing alcohol near to
spray down the entire lever/master assembly; it neutralizes
the brake fluid.

Sheesh.... Looks like your bike came stock with the Hayes
HFX-9 hayesdiscbrake.comhfxxcBIG.htmlOpen ↗ Guess I
should have started there first. Scratch everything I wrote
above, your brakes are a little different than the
traditional ones; It lacks the bladder for one, so I'm not
familiar with the internals. If you're not confident
working on it yourself, hopefully you have a good LBS that
you trust.
--
Slacker

Slacker,

Thanks for your lead on this....

The leaking was at the cover/cap and not at the housing, yes
to order all parts first before I start a rebuild, I learned
that rebuilding my own carbs on my cars.

I had nearby some alcohol that I used to clean up the
housing and any unseen drops from the rotor.

I'ver rebuilt manaul 4 speed w/planatery overdrive trans on
cars, got my first motorcycle at 14 w/the moter in pieces in
a box and my first car at 17 in the same condition.

I see the cavalier attitiude of the mechanics at some of the
LBS, and a lack of torque wrenches so my confidence in the
LBS is low. I'd love to be convinced otherwise.

I can do it wrong for free and I know what components are
suspect when I spin my own wrenches.

I'm looking at the Hayes website and my lever housing
looks slightly different, it lacks the word NINE in the
casting logo.

Otherwise it looks quite the same. I'm going to go over the
bleeding and see what comes of it. I do believe that that
it's time to replace the fluid. I've been told that break
fliud absorbs water which can cause corrosion so it's a good
idea to replace the fluid every season or once a year.

I am cautious though, every time I work on something it's an
opportunity for something to break.

JeffP....

"Slacker" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:2i2hd4Fhkg4tU1@uni-
berlin.de...

Quoted message said:

Looks like your bike came stock with the Hayes HFX-9
hayesdiscbrake.comhfxxcBIG.htmlOpen ↗

Go to hayesdiscbrake.comhayesdiscbrake.comOpen ↗ and download the
manual, if you haven't already. You can also check out my
pix from my last rebuild
pbase.comhayes brakes&page=1Open ↗ that will
give you an idea of how the pieces fit together.

Check the small boot around the lever plunger. But it
sounds like the master bladder isn't seated properly. You
probably should drain all the fluid and take apart the
master, then you'll be able to see what the problem is.
Make sure to order a new compression sleeve before
starting though; you'll need it to reattach the hose after
you;re done.

On second thought, first check the torque on the nut at
the end of the master housing. That nut (smaller one) is
what holds the bladder/master tight and keeps the fluid
inside. You can see the nut here
pbase.com7278214Open ↗ The larger nut holds
the hose the the master.

BTW, keep a little squirt bottle of rubbing alcohol near
to spray down the entire lever/master assembly; it
neutralizes the brake fluid.

Sheesh.... Looks like your bike came stock with the Hayes
HFX-9 hayesdiscbrake.comhfxxcBIG.htmlOpen ↗ Guess I
should have started there first. Scratch everything I
wrote above, your brakes are a little different than the
traditional ones; It lacks the bladder for one, so I'm not
familiar with the internals. If you're not confident
working on it yourself, hopefully you have a good LBS that
you trust.
--
Slacker