"D T W .../\..." <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:With winter here I've been swapping wheel sets and adjusting brakes a lot.
I
Quoted message said:find that squeezing the lever while tightening the bolts doesn't always
take
Quoted message said:away the rub. I cut two shims from a Coke (aluminum, aluminium can) and
let
Quoted message said:the rotor drag them into place in front of each pad (Important - keep the shims cleaned with
Isopropyl alcohol - your finger oils will decrease braking efficiency).
Dang, how much grease is dripping off your fingers, eh? :-)
Quoted message said:Then I loosely tightened the bolts, pumped the brake, tighten some more, pump, tighten. Works
great for me. Don't forget to take the shims out!
Been doing this using a business card on each side for some time now. The aluminum shim should
be better, I think, because a card is a bit of trouble getting it worked into place. I'll try
the can-shim on the next go round. A related tip for on-the-trail adjustments I've learned
lately: I sometimes put up with dragging noise that can be easily stopped just by pushing the
brake lightly for a bit and letting off, allowing the self adjustment to reset itself. (This
also cleans off minor bits of grit, if that is causing the drag.) Mine have dragged only mildly
and occasionally, and I've started doing this, especially after stopping the bike to clean
something off the trail and restarting. It seems to want to drag just very lightly then, and if
I just squeeze the lever lightly for a bit, only enough that I can even pedal uphill while
braking, it tends to stop the "tinging" drag sounds pretty well. (This will only work for minor
dragging, however, not for the kind that is offering real resistance as you pedal. That kind
likely means it's time for a caliper piston replacement, not a difficult task in itself.)
--
D N
I E T S
Off to R the M __, D H
Reply to group. (Detestible spammers!)
