Leonard Blaisdell said:In article <[email hidden]>,
Richard Periut said:Now I know what a real ham looks like. So what are these things called
"ham", which look like they were molded in a mold, and injected with
some solution?
It's highly processed ham. Frankly, I don't mind it, but I like a real
ham with a bone in it much much better. Sandwich sliced ham that you buy
in packages is roughly comparable to what you're describing in my
estimation.
Actually you're speaking of "city ham"... there is just as much a span
of quality with city hams as with country hams.... and on average city
hams are less processed; they're typically substantially lower in fat
and contain less salt/preservatives. Price is a good indicator of ham
quality... those bone-in stupidmarket hams you typically see on sale
(spiral cut and not) for like a buck and a half a pound are garbage...
and don't think for one minute those aren't molded either. Quality
city ham is expensive ($7-$10/lb) and make for fine eating... even the
canned versions can be superb quality; you don't usually find those in
stupidmarkets because they are so costly (fine butcher shops carry
those), you need to buy the full can and will cost anywhere from $20-
$40 for a three pounder. The very same meat packers (Hormel, Morrel,
etc.) that offer the cheap canned hams offer the expensive ones too.
ham
The cut of meat from a hog's hind leg, generally from the middle of
the shank bone to the aitch (hip) bone. The actual length of the cut
varies according to the producer. The unprocessed meat is referred to
as fresh ham, but most ham goes through a curing process after which
it's referred to as cured ham. The final flavor of a ham can be
attributed to a combination of many factors. Before the animal is
slaughtered, those factors include its breed, the type of feed on
which it was raised and the age at which it was slaughtered. Most hogs
are fed corn, but animals headed for the gourmet market may have
treats such as acorns, beechnuts, chestnuts or peanuts added to their
diets. After the hog is slaughtered, the meat is usually cured in one
of three ways - dry curing, sweet-pickle curing or injection curing.
Dry curing involves salting the surface of the ham thoroughly, then
storing it until the salt saturates the meat. This procedure may be
repeated several times. Sweet-pickle curing involves immersing the ham
in a sweet BRINE with added seasonings (usually a secret recipe of the
producer). If sugar is added to the curing mix the ham may be labeled
sugar-cured . Most mass producers of ham use the injection-curing
method whereby the ham is injected with brine. This method is
sometimes combined with one of the other curing methods. The length of
time a ham is cured will affect the final flavor. Most hams for
American consumers have a light or mild cure. After curing, a ham may
go through a smoking process that adds both flavor and aging
capability. The length of time a ham is smoked varies widely depending
on the desired result. Those being prepared for the mass market are
usually smoked lightly or not at all. Hams for the gourmet palate are
more heavily smoked, the process lasting a month or more. The smoked
flavor will vary depending on the substance used. Hickory and maple
are the woods of preference, and some producers add exotic ingredients
such as JUNIPER BERRIES, sage or peat. Once curing and smoking are
completed, gourmet hams are usually aged to further develop flavors;
most mass-produced hams are not. In some cases, aging can take up to 2
years. Hams are sold in several forms including boneless (with the
hip, thigh and shank bones removed), partially boned (with the hip and/
or shank bones removed) and bone-in. Since bone contributes flavor to
the meat during cooking, most gourmet-ham producers leave some bone
in. Hams are marketed in several sizes, the most popular being whole,
halves (shank or butt ends only), shank, butt and center-cut slices or
steaks ranging in thickness from 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Whole hams usually
weigh from 8 to 18 pounds. Canned hams may either be a whole piece of
boneless meat or they may be "formed" from bits and pieces of meat
held together with a gelatin mixture. Hams are available fully cooked,
partially cooked or uncooked. Those that are fully-cooked are heated
to an internal temperature of 148°F or above, partially cooked hams to
at least 137°F (which kills the trichina parasite). Uncooked and
partially cooked hams must be cooked prior to serving. Fully cooked
hams, sometimes labled "heat-and-serve" or "ready-to-eat," do not
require additional cooking and may be eaten cold or heated until warm.
Carefully check the label for instructions. Most hams sold today are
of the mass-produced variety sometimes referred to as "city" or
"urban" hams. Higher-quality American hams are generally labeled
"COUNTRY-CURED" (or "country-style"😉. The majority of these "country"
hams come from Georgia, Kentucky, Tennessee and Virginia; each region
adds its own distinctive style to the ham it produces. Probably the
most famous country-cured ham is the SMITHFIELD HAM from the Virginia
town of the same name. A wide selection of specially cured hams are
also imported from many European countries. The most well known are
PROSCIUTTO from Italy, Germany's WESTPHALIAN, France's BAYONNE and the
York ham from England. Prosciutto and Westphalian are generally sold
in paper-thin slices. When buying a fresh ham , look for one with a
firm white layer of fat, with well-marbled lean portion. In younger
animals, the meat should be a grayish-pink color; older pork should be
a delicate shade of rose. Loosen any packaging material and store the
fresh ham in the coldest part of the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
When purchasing a cured ham, choose one that's firm and plump. The
meat should be finely grained and rosy pink. Refrigerate in the ham's
original wrapping or container for up to 1 week. Some country-style
hams can be stored in a cool place for 1 to 2 months. Longer storage
is possible, but moisture evaporation causes the ham to shrink and
toughen. Canned hams should be stored according to label directions.
Some require refrigeration; others have been sterilized and do not
need to be refrigerated until after they've been opened. Ham slices
should be wrapped airtight and refrigerated up to 3 days. Ham can be
baked, grilled, sautéed, broiled or simmered. Precooked hams can be
eaten without additional cooking. Heavily cured country-style hams,
depending on how salty they are, may require scrubbing, then soaking
up to 24 hours before cooking.
© Copyright Barron's Educational Services, Inc. 1995 based on THE FOOD
LOVER'S COMPANION, 2nd edition, by Sharon Tyler Herbst.
---
Sheldon