I'm attempting the Alpine Classic in Bright in Jan 06 and was hoping someone might have some advice about gearing.
I have a Giant TCR 1 with 9 sp Ultegra. Double chainring 52/39, and 11-23 on the back. On a climb like Arthur's Seat (av gradient 9-10%) I feel like I could do with 2-3 extra gears. Would lowering my gear down to a 26 teeth cog be enough? Or should i go for 28? I don't want to be spinning away and not moving anywhere. A triple chainring isn't an option, and i don't believe in them anyway.
Also, for people who have done the ride before, how long did it take you? I'm aiming for the 10hour mark. I'm a D grade rider, female, but have a fair bit of growl in me. Any tips would be much appreciated
If you can spin very well, then absolutly. If you're a grinder like Ullrich then you won't need the extra gears.
I havn't done those hills, but during a tour of the Southern Highlands last week I found I need at least a 39 * 27. I can get myself over steep hills with a 25 but because I can spin I'd be much faster with a 27.
Don't worry about those who think dinner plates on the rear are for weaker riders, just concentrate on your needs and leave them behind on the hills.
I'm attempting the Alpine Classic in Bright in Jan 06 and was hoping someone might have some advice about gearing.
I have a Giant TCR 1 with 9 sp Ultegra. Double chainring 52/39, and 11-23 on the back. On a climb like Arthur's Seat (av gradient 9-10%) I feel like I could do with 2-3 extra gears.
My dad lives down there and I visit every year or so. Great place to ride. None of the 4 climbs are beasts, but together they are a real challenge. Tawonga Gap from the mt beauty side is 8kms up with very little rest and its the third climb of the day. I would get as much of a granny as you can by swapping your cassette. You dont need to use it, but if its hot it will be nice to have. And I assume you will go back to your current cassette afterwards, so why limit yourself. In europe it was surprising how many good riders were riding triples in the alps. Its just sensible to have a decent granny for mere mortals like us.
Having low gears doesn't make you a weaker rider, in many cases it makes the stronger rider faster.
I would normally use an 11-21; but I'm happy to put a 27 on knowing that I can spin over hills faster than most can grind over them.
...err...you've obviously never been passed by a singlespeeder pushing a ridiculous gear simply because they HAVE to.
On the mountain bike I use an 11/34 because it simply gives me every gear that I could ever need 🙄
On the roadie, however, I use an 11/21 and have gradually adapted to the harder gear. Actually, getting used to it comes quite quickly, you'll be surprised how much stronger you will become. Challenge yourself and put an 11/25 on. You'll soon get used to it.
For the record, I live Hobart, not exactly the flattest state capital 🙂
...err...you've obviously never been passed by a singlespeeder pushing a ridiculous gear simply because they HAVE to.
On the mountain bike I use an 11/34 because it simply gives me every gear that I could ever need 🙄
On the roadie, however, I use an 11/21 and have gradually adapted to the harder gear. Actually, getting used to it comes quite quickly, you'll be surprised how much stronger you will become. Challenge yourself and put an 11/25 on. You'll soon get used to it.
For the record, I live Hobart, not exactly the flattest state capital 🙂
F.
Brizza is absolutely correct. It is well established that power output and fatigue resistance are maximal in a cadence range of 90-110; choosing gears to allow you to stay in this range on hills is only sensible. Fixie riders just have to be very fit to pass you in the "wrong" gear. Looking at it another way, only fit riders would use a fixie in a hilly area.
su 22 I to have the same bike as you. I had trouble adjusting to the 11 23 gearing so I've changed to a 12 26 Sram cassette. This gearing suits me for all matter of riding as I spin at 90 95 and have no problems climbing or riding flats. Hope this helps
Would lowering my gear down to a 26 teeth cog be enough? Or should i go for 28? I don't want to be spinning away and not moving anywhere. A triple chainring isn't an option, and i don't believe in them anyway.
Go for a cassette with 27 or 28 cog. You can get Shimano 12-27 Ultegra cassette - it will match the bike nicely :-). I haven't done the ride myself, but I've heard the hills are long-ish. On a looong climb "spinning" is better than "grinding" -- you'll find that your legs will feel fresh (*sort of*) again even after a short break but not when climbing in high gear ratios.
I used to ride 12-23 but ride 12-28 now. I climb hills FASTER with the lower gear!
Brizza is absolutely correct. It is well established that power output and fatigue resistance are maximal in a cadence range of 90-110; choosing gears to allow you to stay in this range on hills is only sensible. Fixie riders just have to be very fit to pass you in the "wrong" gear. Looking at it another way, only fit riders would use a fixie in a hilly area.
Yes, you are making my point for me. By choosing to ride a cassette such as an 11/21 or 12/23 you can make yourself a 'fit rider'. If you can become strong enough to spin 21 tooth cog at 90-110 rpm, you are going to rip the legs off those who are spinning away (quite often ineffectually) with their 27's. You'll never make strength gains if you are too easy on yourself. "...Just being very fit..." is actually quite a worthwhile goal.
But if surviving the ride is all that you are concerned about, then a 12/27 is certainly going to allow you to do that.
su 22 I to have the same bike as you. I had trouble adjusting to the 11 23 gearing so I've changed to a 12 26 Sram cassette. This gearing suits me for all matter of riding as I spin at 90 95 and have no problems climbing or riding flats. Hope this helps
Hi Felice The big chainring (53T) was killing me! In addition my Giant TCR1 came with 175mm cranks and i'm only a small person. It gave me knee problems until I realised what was wrong. I changed my big chainring to a 52T, and have kept the 11-23. it does it's job in melb. Also i got shorter 170mm cranks-- the same FSA pro carbon ones, and they're just beautiful to ride. All in all, the bike is awesome to ride. Thanks heaps for your advice
Hi Felice The big chainring (53T) was killing me! In addition my Giant TCR1 came with 175mm cranks and i'm only a small person. It gave me knee problems until I realised what was wrong. I changed my big chainring to a 52T, and have kept the 11-23. it does it's job in melb. Also i got shorter 170mm cranks-- the same FSA pro carbon ones, and they're just beautiful to ride. All in all, the bike is awesome to ride. Thanks heaps for your advice
Crikey! I ride 175mm cranks with a 52T big chainring and I'm 6'3". You must have been busting a gut (or a couple of knees) with that set up! Don't go to the place that sold you that again.
Yes, you are making my point for me. By choosing to ride a cassette such as an 11/21 or 12/23 you can make yourself a 'fit rider'. If you can become strong enough to spin 21 tooth cog at 90-110 rpm, you are going to rip the legs off those who are spinning away (quite often ineffectually) with their 27's. You'll never make strength gains if you are too easy on yourself. "...Just being very fit..." is actually quite a worthwhile goal.
But if surviving the ride is all that you are concerned about, then a 12/27 is certainly going to allow you to do that.
F.
I'm afraid that you're still missing the point. However fit you are, you will move the bike most efficiently at a cadence of 90-110. You need to select gears that allow you to stay within that range, however fit you are. Lance might choose 11-21, while mortals would choose 12-34 for the same hill. The best way to be able to spin up a hill at 95 rpm on a 21T cog is to train at the same cadence in a lower gear, and slowly build up the gears rather than slowly build up the cadence. The cadence at which you train alters the way your muscles function; just look at Ullrich - he's stuck climbing at a low cadence and seems unable to spin faster. Many believe he'd be better if only he could spin. Victory or survival, it just doesn't matter what your goal is, spinning rather than labouring is the key.
I'm afraid that you're still missing the point. However fit you are, you will move the bike most efficiently at a cadence of 90-110. You need to select gears that allow you to stay within that range, however fit you are. Lance might choose 11-21, while mortals would choose 12-34 for the same hill. The best way to be able to spin up a hill at 95 rpm on a 21T cog is to train at the same cadence in a lower gear, and slowly build up the gears rather than slowly build up the cadence. The cadence at which you train alters the way your muscles function; just look at Ullrich - he's stuck climbing at a low cadence and seems unable to spin faster. Many believe he'd be better if only he could spin. Victory or survival, it just doesn't matter what your goal is, spinning rather than labouring is the key.
Totally agree. Probably the best cycling-related advice I was given some time ago sounded very similar to what you've said. Fairly high cadence is the key to efficient pedalling. It is much better for the rider to be able to spin rather than grinding those knees.
Anyone thinking of a triple? ive just ridden the Alpine Delight 100k, Bright-Dinner Plain a bigger climb than enything on the Alpine Classic ( tho its just one climb and you have to do 4!) and wouldnt consider anything but a triple chainring to get you round those hairpin bends without major cramping late in the day. Ive also done the 130k Alpine Classic 6 times and Tawonga gap is a big grunt in the hottest part of the day - you will pass many people by spinning in your granny gear and still leave somthing for Buffalo. don't try to be hero - maybe the 130k is a good introduction to these big hills!
Anyone thinking of a triple? ive just ridden the Alpine Delight 100k, Bright-Dinner Plain a bigger climb than enything on the Alpine Classic ( tho its just one climb and you have to do 4!) and wouldnt consider anything but a triple chainring to get you round those hairpin bends without major cramping late in the day. Ive also done the 130k Alpine Classic 6 times and Tawonga gap is a big grunt in the hottest part of the day - you will pass many people by spinning in your granny gear and still leave somthing for Buffalo. don't try to be hero - maybe the 130k is a good introduction to these big hills!
you've got a point, but i've already ordered a 12-27 for my double chainring set (52/39). That makes my smallest gear ratio: 39/27 = 1.44.
i've got faith that i'll be able to put in the hard yards in training and be strong enough to ride with my double. my bike is pretty light, and after having a triple chainring on my previous bike I don't think i could bear to go back to carrying that extra chain-ring... even if it might make the steepest sections a bit easier.
you've got a point, but i've already ordered a 12-27 for my double chainring set (52/39). That makes my smallest gear ratio: 39/27 = 1.44.
i've got faith that i'll be able to put in the hard yards in training and be strong enough to ride with my double. my bike is pretty light, and after having a triple chainring on my previous bike I don't think i could bear to go back to carrying that extra chain-ring... even if it might make the steepest sections a bit easier.
what gearing will you be using in a triple?
Hello su22 I'm not riding the Alpine classic next year as I'm away with the children in Tocamal. The gearing you have chosen will be fine. You must incorporate hills in you're riding, at least one long ride 3 to 4 hrs longer the better. the best advice I have ever recieved was, keep riding and enjoy it Good luck in the ride I'll wil be there in 2007 Let me know how you went
I just don't want to die on Tawonga Gap! I've heard that that thing is nasty, and I've been trembling in fear since I put my entry in.
i've ridden tawonga gap several times, and might i warn you. coming down it is deadly. last year i was riding down, sitting on about 72kmh, and i came off on a corner. broke both arms and legs, and got severe concussion. so be very careful on the corners. its not particularly steep going up, but its still a bit of work.
i've ridden tawonga gap several times, and might i warn you. coming down it is deadly. last year i was riding down, sitting on about 72kmh, and i came off on a corner. broke both arms and legs, and got severe concussion. so be very careful on the corners. its not particularly steep going up, but its still a bit of work.
have fun!
john
ouch, ouch, ouch, I'm a hill whimp 50k max so my brake pads and rims will be getting a hammering.
I have a triple and will be changing the cassete to a 27 for the 200k ride. I like to just put it in an easy gear and start thrashing, I have plenty of time so if it takes me a little longer I don't care but usually I am quicker than most doubles that are mashing on 39/23.
