Gazz 24x3.0

UDC says it will not fit a Gazz but will fit the Duro wildlife leopard
which is a 24x3.0, it the same tire that comes stock on the KH
freeride. It is said to be just as good as the gazz but for
significantly less money.

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terrybigwheel said:

**And will I even notice that much difference/improvement by going up
only .4" in width?

Yes, if you do the type of riding where you have to deal with big rocks
and roots and logs and where you need to hop or jump to get over some
things.

Consider the difference in going from an XC class tire to a 2.6" DH
class tire. It's about the same magnitude of difference when going
from a 2.6" DH class tire to a 3" DH class tire.

The betterness of the 3" Gazz is all relative. I use the 24x3 Gazz but
that's mainly because it's the tire I started with when I switched to a
fat tire (it was one of the few fat tires available), and it's the tire
that I know. I know how it behaves I like how it behaves. I'm
sticking with what I know. I also bought a bunch of them back when
they were less than $60 so I've got about four or more in storage.

I'd likely be happy with the Duro tire if that is what I had.

The general rule of thumb is that the Gazz is better for the more DH
and freeride oriented riding and the Duro is better for XC style
riding. The Gazz is more square and less maneuverable while the Duro
is more rounded and thus more maneuverable. Just rules of thumb and
not hard or firm rules. Kris does just fine doing his freeride riding
on the Duro.

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There is one batch of KH frames out there that I know will not fit a
gazz so the gazz is definately bigger than the duro. The duro is pretty
good though.

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chosen said:

wish i could be in a signature...*sigh*

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Having used both, I'll say they are both good. Don't waste your money
on a Gazz, when it will likely not fit.

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I can't see the point of replacing the Kenda tyre.
I would say their is no reason for a 3", it's just heavier, and more
sloppy.

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Having used the same Kenda tire as you and an IRC Kujo 24x3.0, I can
most definitely say there is a different in feel between the two sizes.

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In theory, a flat, high profile Gaz should be better on flat surfaces,
sand and snow, whereas the rounder profile Duro would be superior where
quick, tight turns are required. Both roll and "tractor" about the
same, and absorb drops about equally--the Gaz bounces a bit more, and
the Duro is not quite as soft a landing. But I'm convinced it's all
about what you get used to. Our group (Santa Barbara Muni Club) is
split down the middle--half on a Gaz, the other half on the Duro. If
you're new to Muniing I'd consider going with the Duro because it
performs well enough for the world champion to use it and it's perhaps
the best buy (29 bucks) of any unicycle gear. Also, I believe the 24"
Gaz will shortly be extinct (though they've been saying that for
several years now). That much said, it not the trails, but street
riding (mainly turning), that wears out Muni tires.

JL

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If it hasn't been said here already, the 3.00 Gazz will not fit the 06
Torker DX because it is more flattened out, the Duro will fit because
it is rounder.

Going from a 2.6 to a 3" is like going from a 2.3 bmx tire to a 2.5
trials tire. It doesn't matter how little difference teh acctual tire
width is, it matters how much more volume the tire has. I hope to
evuantually go the same setup as you- 175mm redline cranks and a 3"
duro.

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john_childs said:

Yes, if you do the type of riding where you have to deal with big rocks
and roots and logs and where you need to hop or jump to get over some
things.

Consider the difference in going from an XC class tire to a 2.6" DH
class tire. It's about the same magnitude of difference when going
from a 2.6" DH class tire to a 3" DH class tire.

I don't really agree with this last statement. I rode the first two
days of CA MUni Weekend on a 26x3.0", and the last day on a 24x2.6",
including some of the same trail we'd done the day before. The 24 was
even set up with 150mm cranks instead of 170mm. Despite the fact that
it was my first day on that setup, I was able to ride pretty much all
the same stuff; loose gravel and scree was harder on the 2.6", but
manuvering through rock gardens and tight spots was easier. Since that
time, I've been riding the most technical terrain we have locally
(which gets quite technical) on the 2.6" setup, and I personally
perform at about the same level on either tire. I have actually gotten
up hills on the 2.6" that I never got up on the 3.0", probably because
of the reduced weight (not only of the tire, but of the whole setup).

I have also done quite a bit of XC riding, including riding a 29x2.1"
at Moab, and the difference between that setup and the 24x2.6" seems
much larger than the difference between the 2.6" and the 3.0". I'm
riding the 2.6" at Moab this year, and I don't expect to have any
difficulty doing things I could do before.

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http://tinyurl.com/8b9n8

are these the cranks you guys are talking about getting for the dx?
what size are they?

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The Bruiser said:

http://tinyurl.com/8b9n8

are these the cranks you guys are talking about getting for the dx?
what size are they?

Nope. You need the Redline *Proline* cranks. They are only available in
175's, and they go for about $85. I have them and they work great.

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