Fuji SP-12S

Gimpdiggity said:

... I have acquired for insanely cheaply a Fuji SP-12S road cycle. It is from way back in 1979. I'm actually older than it by about 12 days!! Ha!!

The bike seems to be in great shape. It still has it's original manual. It's brakes work well, it's wheels spin freely, and it shifts gears. I've gotten new rubber on the front and the back. I also have purchased one of those el-cheapo Walmart bike computers that supposedly tells me distance traveled and such.

I have also purchased a helmet. It fits me pretty good and is lightweight and well vented.

Now, my questions are: is this all that I really need to get started, or am I missing something??

I've read that I may want to try some different pedals, but I'm confused as to what kind to buy. Clipless are the ones that actually clip in?? Or am I totally backwards on that.

Also, if I truly do enjoy riding, is this bike something that can be subtly upgraded with things like lighter parts or new deraileurs (sp?)?? Or woud doing things like that to a 30 year old bike basically just be throwing money away??

The entire bike can be upgraded ...

Like most of the Japanese "brand" bicycle frames from the 70s & 80s, it is nicer than you realize.

The only MINOR limitation on older steel frames is that the rear spacing is 126mm, and the common current spacing is 130mm. This is probably less of a problem with FUJI frames because, based on my Fuji S12-S LTD frame, the angle of the rear dropouts actually begs to be spread to 130mm at which point the rear derailleur hanger will probably be properly aligned for indexed shifting.

With new wheels & Campagnolo components (okay, Shimano STI is "acceptable"😉, and you'll knock several pounds off the bike.

BTW. At some point you'll want clipless pedals (lacking TOE CLIPS) & appropriate cycling shoes. The amount of walking that you plan on doing WITH the bike should dictate the type of shoes -- and, therefore, the pedals -- you buy.

Here's a starting point:

LESS than 50 yards, total, of walking ... ROAD shoes & LOOK KEO are highly recommended.

MORE than 50 yards of walking OR, possibly, if you have stairs to negotiate ... a MTB/touring shoes & SPD pedals.

alfeng said:

The entire bike can be upgraded ...

Like most of the Japanese "brand" bicycle frames from the 70s & 80s, it is nicer than you realize.

The only MINOR limitation on older steel frames is that the rear spacing is 126mm, and the common current spacing is 130mm. This is probably less of a problem with FUJI frames because, based on my Fuji S12-S LTD frame, the angle of the rear dropouts actually begs to be spread to 130mm at which point the rear derailleur hanger will probably be properly aligned for indexed shifting.

With new wheels & Campagnolo components (okay, Shimano STI is "acceptable"😉, and you'll knock several pounds off the bike.

BTW. At some point you'll want clipless pedals (lacking TOE CLIPS) & appropriate cycling shoes. The amount of walking that you plan on doing WITH the bike should dictate the type of shoes -- and, therefore, the pedals -- you buy.

Here's a starting point:

LESS than 50 yards, total, of walking ... ROAD shoes & LOOK KEO are highly recommended.

MORE than 50 yards of walking OR, possibly, if you have stairs to negotiate ... a MTB/touring shoes & SPD pedals.

Thank you for the quick response.

I think that I will be looking for some of the MTB/Touring Shoes and SPD Pedals then soon.

I am in a bit of luck as far as having work done on the bike...my father's friend runs a cycle shop around here, and I will probably be able to get some work done on it for relatively inexpensively.

What kind of wheels would be suggested for an upgrade at some point?? Keep in mind, I paid less than $25 for the bike...but I'm not opposed to spending some money on upgrades if the bike is worth upgrading!!

I owned a Fuji of similar vintage (an early 80's Sagres) and it was a good well made bike. But to my knowledge early Fujis have a 122 Millimeter rear dropout spacing not 126mm like most other early bikes. This could cause problems with wheel upgrades. On the other hand track bikes have a similar dropout spacing and your Fuji could be a great starting point for a single speed/ fixed gear conversion given it's lack of braze on bosses, and long horizontal dropout slot. Track bike wheels should fit right in.

p38lightning said:

I owned a Fuji of similar vintage (an early 80's Sagres) and it was a good well made bike. But to my knowledge early Fujis have a 122 Millimeter rear dropout spacing not 126mm like most other early bikes. This could cause problems with wheel upgrades. On the other hand track bikes have a similar dropout spacing and your Fuji could be a great starting point for a single speed/ fixed gear conversion given it's lack of braze on bosses, and long horizontal dropout slot. Track bike wheels should fit right in.

I think I'll have to check the manual, because I seem to remember something in it about the "S" version being the 126mm setup...but I may be in correct.

If necessary, I'll grab the tape measure to be sure...

p38lightning said:

I owned a Fuji of similar vintage (an early 80's Sagres) and it was a good well made bike. But to my knowledge early Fujis have a 122 Millimeter rear dropout spacing not 126mm like most other early bikes. This could cause problems with wheel upgrades. On the other hand track bikes have a similar dropout spacing and your Fuji could be a great starting point for a single speed/ fixed gear conversion given it's lack of braze on bosses, and long horizontal dropout slot. Track bike wheels should fit right in.

REGARDLESS of the current rear spacing -- 122mm or 126mm or something else -- it is almost effortless to respace the rear triangle on a steel frame UNLESS you have arthritis OR if you weigh less than ~80 lbs.

With the rear wheel out (and, something covering the chainstay so the chain isn't dragging on it!), you just need to apply, simultaneously, ~30 lbs of outward pressure to the dropouts ... measure AND repeat until the stays have the desired separation. You will note that as you spread the dropouts, the frame's stays will rebound a great deal of the way BACK to its original position ...

DON'T BE IN A HURRY ... YOU'LL GET IT TO WHERE IT NEEDS TO BE.

So-called experts have suggested using a 2x4 for leverage. That is the biggest mistake you can make since you will not be applying the force evenly, and you will have to do all sorts of machinations to square the frame.

A frame made with heavier tubing simply takes MORE tweaks to get the dropouts to the proper spacing.

Conversely, I have respaced two so-called TOURING frames (steel, of course) which began with 135mm rear spacing down to 130mm so I could have continuity in the wheelsets that I have.

The rear derailleur hanger needs to be parallel to the central plane of the bike for indexed shifting to work properly. This is not difficult, but is certainly something that your favorite LBS will do for about $10 -- maybe, more. A pipe wrench is the easiest tool to align the derailleur hanger [you need to ... make that MUST ... sandwich the dropouts with small scraps of plywood to keep the pipewrench from marring the surface of the dropout!] ... but, kids, don't try this at home if you aren't REALLY MECHANICALLY HANDY!

As I noted, the dropouts on MY Fuji boat-tailed slightly (for want of a better word description), so spreading the dropouts to 130mm resulted in the dropouts being aligned to the central plane of the bike! Wunderbar!

Gimpdiggity said:

Thank you for the quick response.

I think that I will be looking for some of the MTB/Touring Shoes and SPD Pedals then soon.

I am in a bit of luck as far as having work done on the bike...my father's friend runs a cycle shop around here, and I will probably be able to get some work done on it for relatively inexpensively.

What kind of wheels would be suggested for an upgrade at some point?? Keep in mind, I paid less than $25 for the bike...but I'm not opposed to spending some money on upgrades if the bike is worth upgrading!!

The type of wheels you get should be based on whether or not you plan on using indexed shifting ... and, whether you opt for Campagnolo (recommended!) or Shimano (almost as good ... of course, existing Shimano users will say that Shimano is better without ever having used Campagnolo shifters).

Campagnolo shifters are, or can be, less expensive, BUT almost all of the other components are more expensive!

I use Campagnolo shifters with Shimano/-compatible hubbed wheels ... heck, most of parts on my bikes are Shimano; but, that's more than you need to know for now other than to know that there are numerous work-arounds (including "conversion" cassettes) which allow Campagnolo users to use "Shimano" wheels.

SunRace freewheels (both 7-speed & 8-speed) are compatible with 8-speed indexing ... 8-speed indexing can be replicated using non-8-speed indexed shifters ... so, you don't need to buy new wheels right away if you don't want to. For under $200 (well, under), you could add indexed shifting by buying the shifters, a new rear derailleur, chain & freewheel.

For $600, you should be able to have the equal -- or, better -- of a bike costing twice as much from a bike shop (even YOUR local bike shop!).

What it comes down to, almost everything you buy for your Fuji can theoretically be used on a different frame at some point in the future, if you want ... or, you could continue to ride that Fuji frame another 40+ years!

Since you "know" someone who can assist you, instead of buying an entirely new wheelset, I would recommend that the rear wheel be relaced onto a new hub (between $20-to-$250+ for the hub + the cost of lacing [you can learn to do this part] and truing) + cassette ... stainless steel spokes CAN be reused ... some people with deeper pockets say it isn't worth reusing them.

alfeng said:

The type of wheels you get should be based on whether or not you plan on using indexed shifting ... and, whether you opt for Campagnolo (recommended!) or Shimano (almost as good ... of course, existing Shimano users will say that Shimano is better without ever having used Campagnolo shifters).

Campagnolo shifters are, or can be, less expensive, BUT almost all of the other components are more expensive!

I use Campagnolo shifters with Shimano/-compatible hubbed wheels ... heck, most of parts on my bikes are Shimano; but, that's more than you need to know for now other than to know that there are numerous work-arounds (including "conversion" cassettes) which allow Campagnolo users to use "Shimano" wheels.

SunRace freewheels (both 7-speed & 8-speed) are compatible with 8-speed indexing ... 8-speed indexing can be replicated using non-8-speed indexed shifters ... so, you don't need to buy new wheels right away if you don't want to. For under $200 (well, under), you could add indexed shifting by buying the shifters, a new rear derailleur, chain & freewheel.

For $600, you should be able to have the equal -- or, better -- of a bike costing twice as much from a bike shop (even YOUR local bike shop!).

What it comes down to, almost everything you buy for your Fuji can theoretically be used on a different frame at some point in the future, if you want ... or, you could continue to ride that Fuji frame another 40+ years!

Since you "know" someone who can assist you, instead of buying an entirely new wheelset, I would recommend that the rear wheel be relaced onto a new hub (between $20-to-$250+ for the hub + the cost of lacing [you can learn to do this part] and truing) + cassette ... stainless steel spokes CAN be reused ... some people with deeper pockets say it isn't worth reusing them.

Guys, this has been great information.

I thought when I picked the bike up that it was going to be a "throw away" item...something that if I enjoyed the sport I'd have to throw away when I wanted to upgrade...or conversely something that if I didn't enjoy the sport I'd throw it away.

Now though, I see that this bike might be upgradeable quite a bit...so I will be able to have it grow with me a little bit before I spend some big money upgrading to another bike altogether.