Friction to Indexed Shifting Upgrade

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by un1xl0ser
I recently purchased a road bike, that I plan to use for commuting to work.

The bike is a Peugeot U-08 with mostly Shimano-600 parts.

It currently is using friction shifing, which I have gotten used to.

I like the bike and want to fix it up in my spare time.

What details about the bike will I have to know in order to determine if I can switch from friction tube shifters to handle bar indexed ones?

Does anoyne have any documentation online about the best way to go about this?

I am kind of a n00b when it comes to this biking stuff, but I understand what the parts are and one thing that I do like is the fact that most of the things seem simple enough for the average person to do and understand.

Thanks,

un1xl0ser

The biggest detail is how much money you want to spend. To really do it right,plan on chucking everythng but the frame and fork. I would not waste my time on an old Peugesnot used for a comuter. Yeah, bikes are basically simple machines,but your project involves the whole specturm of knowledge on parts, compatibility and interchangability and what has to be done to an old POS to bring it up to spec. Start with reading about old French bikes in Sheldon Browns articles at www.harriscyclery.com Then understand everything else Sheldon has to say and you will have a good start. Trust me, some things are better left undone.

Send an email to boudreaux, the mother of all bike upgrades of that sort. It will save a lot of arguments and sarcastic remarks to those who may want to give their tips. You see, he waits till someone gives a tip and then he blasts them with his smart-alecky retorts... *pity*

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by dennis dee
Send an email to boudreaux, the mother of all bike upgrades of that sort. It will save a lot of arguments and sarcastic remarks to those who may want to give their tips. You see, he waits till someone gives a tip and then he blasts them with his smart-alecky retorts... *pity*

Why don't you tell him 'sure, coz the shifters come with downtube adapters'....LOL

No I'll save the advising to you on this matter. A guy who rides a Cheng Shing Hi-Ten Wal-Mart special like who likes to fool everyone he owns Record (LOL) knows these types of old machinery. ROTFL, hahahaha

Let me see if I can address the original question...

As of today, new indexed shifters come in 9 or 10 speeds. Your Peugeot is probably a 5 or 6 in the back. There are older 7 and 8 speed indexed shifters, but you're still looking at changing the rear hub, because practically all 7 speed and above setups use a different rear gear than do 5 and 6 speed (cassette instead of freewheel). There are a few 7 speed freewheels that might fit your existing rear wheel, but that means using an old 7 speed indexed shifter, probably buying it used, and they do wear out.

Bottom line - to go to an indexed shifter setup, you will be changing both the shifters and at least the rear wheel, so you may as well go up to 9 speed and get shifters that are new and likely to last a while. Cost? Figure a set of 105 indexed brake levers will set you back $125, plus new rear wheel, plus new cassette, plus chain will probably cost at least another $50-$75.

If what you really want is to shift without taking your hands off of the handlebars, look at bar end shifters. These can be had in friction versions, so you can stay with your existing 5-6 speed wheel. A lot cheaper: $30 instead of $200.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by JohnO


Bottom line - to go to an indexed shifter setup, you will be changing both the shifters and at least the rear wheel, so you may as well go up to 9 speed and get shifters that are new and likely to last a while. Cost? Figure a set of 105 indexed brake levers will set you back $125, plus new rear wheel, plus new cassette, plus chain will probably cost at least another $50-$75.

Add in front and rear derailers. sometimes an old FD will work,but I would not count on it. A non pinned and ramped chainset will shift with integrated shifters,but not as well as some would want,and the chainrings might need replacing anyway.....Let me Know where you can buy new 105 sti levers for $125.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by boudreaux
Let me Know where you can buy new 105 sti levers for $125.

NASHBAR- $130 - 10% discount = $117

I'd get used to the downtube shifters-- it's not worth changing them. As a guy who has riden many a funky old road bike-- screw all the upgrades! Oil the chain, tighten the spokes and ride that French clunker into the ground.

The're plenty more old bikes at Goodwill to replace it when it dies.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by tacomee
I'd get used to the downtube shifters-- it's not worth changing them. As a guy who has riden many a funky old road bike-- screw all the upgrades! Oil the chain, tighten the spokes and ride that French clunker into the ground.

The're plenty more old bikes at Goodwill to replace it when it dies.

Preach it brother!

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by boudreaux
Preach it brother!

If it aint the old court jester. What a fool... what a fool!:p

I changed my bike from downtube shifters to Campy Ergo (had a thread on it a while back). It was quite a long (and expensive adventure). Obviously, I had to replace the shifting/brake mechanism, and wound up replacing the rear rear derailleur, freewheel, chain and cables.

Think carefully before you embark on such an endevour. Only you know if its worth doing.

Cool choice for a commuter!

The switch to indexing is going to be very expensive.

If you're used to friction and willing to stay with it instead of indexing, switching to bar-end shifters is cheap and easy. Even if you have clamp-on down-tube shifters, it can be done without issue.

Older suntour ratcheting friction-only bar-ends cost about $30 and are amazingly reliable. If you don't want to run the housing all the way down your bike (with zipties no less), replace the downtube shifters with cable stops that mount to the old shifter bosses. If you don't have bosses, clamp-on cable stops are
available.

If you're going to be commuting, I would suggest keeping a complete housing all the way down if practical. I know it increases friction, but it also greatly protects the cable from the elements, and unless you have very varied terrain, you probably don't need super-duper shift accuracy anyway. It's a commuter!