Freehubs

Malk said:

Has anyone else experienced freehub failure?

I do - had to ride 15 miles of single track with constant pedaling often with the brakes pulled.
Interesting experience - not fast riding like that but technical challengeing in unfamiliar ways:-)

The freewheel was a Shimano LX if I remember correctly, no problem replacing the parts. As for your
Coda one it sounds odd it can't be fixed but as you say Coda is not exactly the best stuff so you
may be right - I'd mail Cannondale and ask or go to my LBS.

Regards

Bruno

Malk said:

Has anyone else experienced freehub failure? Mine failed at the furthest point on my circuit
whilst climbing a very steep hill. Seems to me that failure of this component is the most
unfixable thing that can occur on a ride, no warning, just spinning cranks.

Asuming you mean no drive..... Although it doesn't fit in with it failing on the climb, there's a
chance the freewheel mecanism could just be gummed up so the pawls aren't enagaging. If can't
disassemble, try flushing out with loads of WD40. Would be best to remove freehub to avoid spoiling
main bearings, but it'll still be worth a try anyway as a last resort before binning the whole
hub/wheel.

Failure of the other type happened on my brother's MTB (with a cheap unbranded hub) after he fitted
bar ends. Ended up with drive only - no freewheeling. There was some advance warning in the few
rides before the final knackeration - strange noises and momentary malfunction. I reckon that's what
would happen with most freehubs.

This problem is caused by repeatedly putting a lot of power into an inadequate design. The freehubs
use too-small ratchet diameters and pawls. Hope hubs are better (than Shimanos & cheap ones)
apparently, and Campags are for road bikes.

~PB

Quoted message said:

To add insult the hub is Coda (nasty stuff) and the
axle is sealed so cannot replace freehub unless
anyone out there knows different looks like complete
new hub or wheel

My nephew replaced the Coda freehub body on his Cannondale mountain bike with one purchased from our local Cannondale dealer. Removal of the old body required a 12mm allen key inserted from the left side of the hub.

Coda hubs are made for Cannondale by a variety of manufacturers, and some are of very good quality, but Shimano has the benefit of universal availability.

N. Lenderby (Mrs)

Nora Lenderby wrote

Quoted message said:

My nephew replaced the Coda freehub body on his Cannondale mountain bike with one purchased from
our local Cannondale dealer. Removal of the old body required a 12mm allen key inserted from the
left side of the hub.

Coda hubs are made for Cannondale by a variety of manufacturers, and some are of very good
quality, but Shimano has the benefit of universal availability.

N. Lenderby (Mrs)

The hub is a Cannondale Competition on a road bike, there appears to be no way to remove the axle to
get at the 10 or? 12mm hollow bolt that fixes the freehub body to the main hub. There is in fact
some wear on the splines of the freehub where the smaller cassette rings are fixed to the hub. The
freehub outer body is an alloy of what appears to be softer metal than the standard eg Ultegra
Shimano freehub which is steel. I think I will be glad to see the back of this Coda part (excellent
frames lousy parts) Malk

Quoted message said:

The hub is a Cannondale Competition on a road bike,
there appears to be no way to remove the axle to get
at the 10 or? 12mm hollow bolt that fixes the freehub
body to the main hub.

I'm sure there is a way. You just haven't found it yet. Cartridge bearing hubs often have a press-fit axle that should be tapped out to one side or the other after a retaining nut or circlip is removed. You might consult the dealer who sold you the cycle, who is more likely to know the specifics of your particular model of hub.

Quoted message said:

There is in fact some wear on the splines of the
freehub where the smaller cassette rings are fixed
to the hub. The freehub outer body is an alloy of
what appears to be softer metal than the standard
eg Ultegra Shimano freehub which is steel.

Many hubs use aluminium freehub bodies as they are lighter than steel ones.

Quoted message said:

I think I will be glad to see the back of this Coda
part (excellent frames lousy parts)

I will repeat: Coda parts are made by a variety of manufacturers and vary in quality. Many have been excellent, the cold forged Sugino cranks, and the hollow Magic Motorcycle chainset, for example. Others have been less praiseworthy, but it would be unfair to condemn an entire varied range on the basis of a single failure.

N. Lenderby (Mrs)

Malk said:

The hub is a Cannondale Competition on a road bike, there appears to be no way to remove the axle
to get at the 10 or? 12mm hollow bolt that fixes the freehub body to the main hub.

Are you sure that is the only way to remove the freehub? Some freehubs are held on with a nut and
can be slid over the axle - with no need to remove axle. Only Shimano-type freehubs have the wheel
bearings at the outside of the freehub. (Design patented by Shimano).

~PB

Nora Lenderby said:

Quoted message said:

There is in fact some wear on the splines of the freehub where the smaller cassette rings are
fixed to the hub. The freehub outer body is an alloy of what appears to be softer metal than the
standard eg Ultegra Shimano freehub which is steel.

Many hubs use aluminium freehub bodies as they are lighter than steel ones.

But it can be a problem when the splines are shallow - especially when a non-spidered cassette is
used (so load is not distributed so evenly).

Campagnolo 9/10sp freehub bodies are aluminium but the splines are deep.

~PB

[email hidden] schreef ...

Quoted message said:

The hub is a Cannondale Competition on a road bike, there appears to be no way to remove the axle
to get at the 10 or? 12mm hollow bolt that fixes the freehub body to the main hub. There is in
fact some wear on the splines of the freehub where the smaller cassette rings are fixed to the
hub. The freehub outer body is an alloy of what appears to be softer metal than the standard eg
Ultegra Shimano freehub which is steel.

Ummmm.... we have wear on a steel Chris King outer body which, according to CK is normal - at least
on a tandem ;-)

--
Regards, Marten