the logo/valve trick is a great way of tracking down punctures and also makes your bike look very professional.
when you check for punctures, the trick is not to put as much pressure as possible but rather to check to see if air is leaking. It takes maybe 5-10 psi to do this. This way you don't stretch out a tube that is actually good - stretched out they're a pain to get back on.
There is a way to check for punctures without getting the bucket or sink of water (I find it inconvenient and messy).
1. First, you have to shut off all fans, music, noise, etc.
2. "fold" off the tube on one side of the valve and put in a bit of air. Fold off the tube about a foot away on the other side of the valve ("second fold"😉. Put in some air. It probably won't leak. Unfold the second fold and move the fold another foot down the tube. Reinflate just enough so the tube holds its shape. Repeat. When you find the puncture, mark it (Sharpie works). Then line it up with the tire and rim to check for any residual glass, rock, nail, etc.
3. Wiggle the valve to see if the puncture is actually the valve stem ripping off the tube. Typically such a puncture will hold air when you're checking the tube until you tilt the valve.
4. When I find the puncture (and the cause), I toss the tube. It's not worth it to worry about a patch job etc unless it's the only way you can get home.
5. Finally, when you reinstall the tire/tube, DO NOT use tire levers. It is too easy to puncture a tube when doing this. If you do use a tire lever, you must use it in a way that you absolutely know you will not puncture the tube - you must understand exactly what the lever is doing etc. If you can't then you stand a good chance of puncturing the tube. The kicker is that you may not find out till after you've ridden it a bit.
You shouldn't puncture even once in 1500 miles unless you have really bad road conditions - and then you can adjust your equipment for this as well as your riding habits.
Hope this helps
cdr