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fixing a loose bottom head set cup? 1" threaded

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Cycling Equipment
Published
27 May 2004
Last activity
29 May 2004
Original author
Serg
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13
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  1. 1993 bridgestone rb-1. lugged. hey guys-just went to change
    my head set and the bottom cup came off really easily.
    pretty much by hand. after using some calipers to measure
    it, the numbers point to a slightly flared bottom head set
    lug. i took the new bottom cup (campy chorus) and tested
    it. the cup will go in a little over half way and then i
    has to be pressed on. this means that the head set is
    definitely flared out. just barely.

    anyways, i obviously want to keep the frame and possibly fix
    it. is there anyway to fix it? shim it somehow? some sort of
    insert? thanks!!!

  2. serg said:

    1993 bridgestone rb-1. lugged. hey guys-just went to change
    my head set and the bottom cup came off really easily.
    pretty much by hand. after using some calipers to measure
    it, the numbers point to a slightly flared bottom head set
    lug. i took the new bottom cup (campy chorus) and tested
    it. the cup will go in a little over half way and then i
    has to be pressed on. this means that the head set is
    definitely flared out. just barely.

    anyways, i obviously want to keep the frame and possibly
    fix it. is there anyway to fix it? shim it somehow? some
    sort of insert? thanks!!!

  3. "serg" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    1993 bridgestone rb-1. lugged. hey guys-just went to
    change my head set and the bottom cup came off really
    easily. pretty much by hand. after using some calipers to
    measure it, the numbers point to a slightly flared bottom
    head set lug. i took the new bottom cup (campy chorus)
    and tested
    it. the cup will go in a little over half way and then i
    has to be


    pressed

    Quoted message said:

    on. this means that the head set is definitely flared out.
    just barely.

    anyways, i obviously want to keep the frame and possibly
    fix it. is there anyway to fix it? shim it somehow? some
    sort of insert? thanks!!!


    How about filling the gap with an epoxy such as JB Weld?
    It's pretty tough stuff. I've used it on firetrucks & we,
    er, those guys can break anything! Just be certain the metal
    is well cleaned for best adhesion. Your LBS should then be
    able to ream the headtube out to fit once it's hardened.
    Just an idea.
    --
    Wishing you flat hills, tailwinds & friendly dogs, Pat

  4. On Thu, 27 May 2004 01:36:52 GMT, "serg" <[email hidden]> may have

    Quoted message said:

    1993 bridgestone rb-1. lugged. hey guys-just went to change
    my head set and the bottom cup came off really easily.
    pretty much by hand. after using some calipers to measure
    it, the numbers point to a slightly flared bottom head set
    lug. i took the new bottom cup (campy chorus) and tested
    it. the cup will go in a little over half way and then i
    has to be pressed on. this means that the head set is
    definitely flared out. just barely.

    anyways, i obviously want to keep the frame and possibly
    fix it. is there anyway to fix it? shim it somehow? some
    sort of insert? thanks!!!

    If the new cup had to be pressed in order to get it in
    place, you're probably safe to just leave it that way in
    my opinion. The fact that the old one was hand-
    extractable is not particularly alarming as long as the
    new one goes in tight.

    --
    My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via
    e-mail. Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature. Words
    processed in a facility that contains nuts.

  5. Quoted message said:

    1993 bridgestone rb-1. lugged. hey guys-just went to
    change my head set and the bottom cup came off really
    easily. pretty much by hand. after using some calipers to
    measure it, the numbers point to a slightly flared bottom
    head set lug. i took the new bottom cup (campy chorus)
    and tested
    it. the cup will go in a little over half way and then i
    has to be


    pressed

    Quoted message said:

    on. this means that the head set is definitely flared out.
    just barely.

    anyways, i obviously want to keep the frame and possibly
    fix it. is there anyway to fix it? shim it somehow? some
    sort of insert? thanks!!!

    There's a fair amount of variation between different brands
    & models of headset cups, enough so that you might be able
    to find one that is a considerably tighter fit than your
    present one. Unless your headset has been ovalized due to a
    crash, that's the route I'd take (which will require
    bringing it to your local bike shop and trying a few cups to
    see which one fits best).

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    chainreactionbicycles.comchainreactionbicycles.com

  6. You did not give actual measurement numbers, but if the
    cup was a 30mm diameter, you have a JIS headset. This
    would be lucky for you, as you can have it reamed up to
    the "euro" standard, using a 30.2mm cup. If fact, measure
    several points and average the ID. If you get an average
    of 30.0mm, press in the larger standard. It is very
    possible you vintage of bike came with the JIS standard.
    The "euro" standard is actually easier to find in an after-
    market headset.

    Another option that is worth trying are the "retaining
    compounds", which are desgined for press fits. These
    compounds cure and harden, filling a relatively large gap.
    An example is Loctite(R) RC680.

    For more on headset standards see: parktool.comparktool.com
    repair_help/howfix_headthreadless.shtml

  7. serg said:

    1993 bridgestone rb-1. lugged. hey guys-just went to
    change my head set and the bottom cup came off really
    easily. pretty much by hand. after using some calipers to
    measure it, the numbers point to a slightly flared bottom
    head set lug. i took the new bottom cup (campy chorus)
    and tested
    it. the cup will go in a little over half way and then i
    has to be pressed on. this means that the head set is
    definitely flared out. just barely.

    anyways, i obviously want to keep the frame and possibly
    fix it. is there anyway to fix it? shim it somehow? some
    sort of insert? thanks!!!


    A good bike shop will knurl the fork crown seat for you.
    Park make a tool for this very purpose. It's unlikely that
    any filler material will last.

  8. In article <40b62dc2.0@entanet>,

    Zog The Undeniable said:
    serg said:

    1993 bridgestone rb-1. lugged. hey guys-just went to
    change my head set and the bottom cup came off really
    easily. pretty much by hand. after using some calipers to
    measure it, the numbers point to a slightly flared bottom
    head set lug. i took the new bottom cup (campy chorus)
    and tested
    it. the cup will go in a little over half way and then i
    has to be pressed on. this means that the head set
    is definitely flared out. just barely.

    anyways, i obviously want to keep the frame and possibly
    fix it. is there anyway to fix it? shim it somehow? some
    sort of insert? thanks!!!


    A good bike shop will knurl the fork crown seat for you.
    Park make a tool for this very purpose. It's unlikely that
    any filler material will last.

    It sounds like it's the head tube that needs knurling. I
    usually do it with a punch. You have to put a lot of dimples
    in it or it won't last.

  9. Paul Southworth said:

    It sounds like it's the head tube that needs knurling. I
    usually do it with a punch. You have to put a lot of
    dimples in it or it won't last.

    Ah...I see now (must read more carefully). I made an
    assumption because crowns are usually the first place to go,
    but it isn't unknown for head tubes to flare.

    This one's interesting because lugless frames have far more
    problems in this respect. Although that's not what it's
    really there for, the lug does reinforce the head tube and
    normally prevents this type of spreading.

  10. Zog The Undeniable said:

    This one's interesting because lugless frames have far
    more problems in this respect. Although that's not what
    it's really there for, the lug does reinforce the head
    tube and normally prevents this type of spreading.

    Good lugless frame builders will braze a reinforcing ring at
    the top and bottom of the head tube to prevent this, as
    mentioned in a number of frame building books and Web sites.

  11. Tim McNamara said:

    Good lugless frame builders will braze a reinforcing
    ring at the top and bottom of the head tube to prevent
    this, as mentioned in a number of frame building books
    and Web sites.

    I have a nasty feeling Thorn don't do this on the Nomad
    (makes mental note to look tomorrow)

  12. Zog The Undeniable said:

    Tim McNamara wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Good lugless frame builders will braze a reinforcing
    ring at the top and bottom of the head tube to prevent
    this, as mentioned in a number of frame building books
    and Web sites.

    Quoted message said:

    I have a nasty feeling Thorn don't do this on the Nomad
    (makes mental note to look tomorrow)

    Reinforcing rings are generally used to strengthen a
    lightweight head tube. The current model Nomad doesn't
    use reinforcing rings, but the tubing used is relatively
    thick-walled.

    James Thomson

  13. James Thomson said:

    Reinforcing rings are generally used to strengthen a
    lightweight head tube. The current model Nomad doesn't
    use reinforcing rings, but the tubing used is relatively
    thick-walled.

    Just looked, and my 1999 Nomad *does* have reinforcing
    rings. So that's OK then.

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